DAT510 Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 why only use r1 carb? you could get better flow from a bigger cc bike? correct me if im wrong. http://www.ebay.com/...973ae76&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...f0644af&vxp=mtr Cause I think they adjust to barometric pressure.. or they do something on their own... Or maybe they're cheap! Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 why only use r1 carb? you could get better flow from a bigger cc bike? correct me if im wrong. http://www.ebay.com/...973ae76&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...f0644af&vxp=mtr The two sets in particular that you posted have electronic shit on them and are more like individual throttle bodies. the older r1 carbs do not they are still like a little throttle body but more like a traditional carb with a slide and needle and what not. On top of that you can find the r1 carbs pretty cheap, i picked up my set for 60 bucks on CL Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 R-1s are for a 1,000cc motor that turns 14K RPMs. Perfect flow for a 2,000cc motor turning 7K RPMs. The R1s are a constant velocity type, similar in function to a SU carb. 3 Quote Link to comment
NKrader Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 R-1s are for a 1,000cc motor that turns 14K RPMs. Perfect flow for a 2,000cc motor turning 7K RPMs. The R1s are a constant velocity type, similar in function to a SU carb. ahhh im retarded didnt think rpms.. my motor is gons do 14k rpms! for about a second before is shoots the pistons into outerspace :D The two sets in particular that you posted have electronic shit on them and are more like individual throttle bodies. the older r1 carbs do not they are still like a little throttle body but more like a traditional carb with a slide and needle and what not. On top of that you can find the r1 carbs pretty cheap, i picked up my set for 60 bucks on CL what year range would I be looking for? didn't see that posted in the beginning. someone should edit OP or bold it or something if it is there lol. Quote Link to comment
Drummerboy4as Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 98-01 for the R1 carbs Quote Link to comment
David.N Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 So far, boost lines to the diaphram vents, and float bowl vents, jets are drilled to 1.9mm, screws 3 turns out, and needles shimmed up a little. VERY IMPORTANT the plastic t's that pressure the bowls need to have zip ties put on either side of the t. otherwise boost pressure leaks out there, doesnt pressurize the bowls, and wont run under boost. simple as that. easy right? I have not put a boost sensitive regulator on yet, although i think im going to have to if i dont want it to run lean under boost. Awsome, thanks for the info. I was not aware that the bowl vents are prone to leakage. Here's a very useful article on getting a turbo'ed bike set up properly. http://www.unclebobsturbos.com/newbie.html It actually recommends that same fuel regulator you were looking at. Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Boosted with R1s will be sweet. They are nice NA. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Couple glam shots. Mounted the stacks today. Will take them off to get coated in something soon hopefully. 2 Quote Link to comment
Drummerboy4as Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Got the manifold and R1 fuel pump mounted. Hopefully carbs will follow in the next day or two 1 Quote Link to comment
Drummerboy4as Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Carbs mounted Quote Link to comment
Drummerboy4as Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Whoops, double post :/ Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 sweeeetttt! now time for some wire tucking ;) well and to get it fired up! haha Quote Link to comment
H5WAGON Posted June 21, 2012 Report Share Posted June 21, 2012 So Sweet!......Now that's a L Motor!... :w00t: Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 22, 2012 Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 No one else whose running these on an l series motor has had problems with over heating correct? it seems to me my car has been running much hotter since the new mani, and when you turn it off it sounds like waters boiling in he engine (i dontthink it is it just sounds like that) everyone said covering those wholes in the head wasnt a problem and i believe you, just double chekcing before i go replacing pumps and thermostats short few mile drive, then idling in a parking lot for 7-10 mintues engine BAY temps up to 140 degrees....not good Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 22, 2012 Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 This doesnt relate to your L really. But just for peace of mind I run without a stat. That way I just know its cooling. I bought a brand new stat for my old L18 when I first got it and it was stuck from factory. So now I just dont run one. Ya takes longer to warm up but so what I don't care. it's not my DD. (I know yours is) Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted June 22, 2012 Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 No one else whose running these on an l series motor has had problems with over heating correct? it seems to me my car has been running much hotter since the new mani, and when you turn it off it sounds like waters boiling in he engine (i dontthink it is it just sounds like that) everyone said covering those wholes in the head wasnt a problem and i believe you, just double chekcing before i go replacing pumps and thermostats short few mile drive, then idling in a parking lot for 7-10 mintues engine BAY temps up to 140 degrees....not good could be running lean Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 22, 2012 Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 could be running lean i suppose it could, but then i would have to assume my wideband is lying to me. couldnt taking the thermostat out also cause overheating? Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted June 22, 2012 Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 No one else whose running these on an l series motor has had problems with over heating correct? it seems to me my car has been running much hotter since the new mani, and when you turn it off it sounds like waters boiling in he engine (i dontthink it is it just sounds like that) everyone said covering those wholes in the head wasnt a problem and i believe you, just double chekcing before i go replacing pumps and thermostats short few mile drive, then idling in a parking lot for 7-10 mintues engine BAY temps up to 140 degrees....not good Did you drain/fill the rad ? Run it idle without the rad cap until it warms up, put the cap on and see if temps are better ... Only time I ever had a temp issue that was the fix. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 22, 2012 Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 i suppose it could, but then i would have to assume my wideband is lying to me. couldnt taking the thermostat out also cause overheating? How? The only thing a stat does is keep the water circulating within the motor and heater core to make it get to operating temp fast so you can have a nice warm heater. Then it pops open and allows the water to flow through the rad to keep a consistent temp after that. Removing the stat just allows it to free flow through the rad all the time. Even on initial startup, causing it to take longer to get warmed up. Am I wrong? Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 22, 2012 Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 Did you drain/fill the rad ? Run it idle without the rad cap until it warms up, put the cap on and see if temps are better ... Only time I ever had a temp issue that was the fix. i did drain it, ill try that. How? The only thing a stat does is keep the water circulating within the motor and heater core to make it get to operating temp fast so you can have a nice warm heater. Then it pops open and allows the water to flow through the rad to keep a consistent temp after that. Removing the stat just allows it to free flow through the rad all the time. Even on initial startup, causing it to take longer to get warmed up. Am I wrong? No i dont think so thats what i always thought to, i remember hearing somewhere that if you take the thermostat out instead of regulating the water flow when its at whatever temp, it flows freely and doesnt allow time for the water to cool in the radiator, i dunno, just something i never thought twice about! ill pull it out, its summer anyway Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted June 23, 2012 Report Share Posted June 23, 2012 if you don't run a stat, at least put those restrictor plates in the housing so you at least have some pressure against the pump.. race car guys use em.. just a circle like the stat, but just a hole in the middle... they make all kinds of sizes, or if you're handy, just make one... just like spudly said, it doesn't give the rad enough time to do its job without a stat... Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 23, 2012 Report Share Posted June 23, 2012 if you don't run a stat, at least put those restrictor plates in the housing so you at least have some pressure against the pump.. race car guys use em.. just a circle like the stat, but just a hole in the middle... they make all kinds of sizes, or if you're handy, just make one... just like spudly said, it doesn't give the rad enough time to do its job without a stat... Huh, good to know! just for fun. 3 Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 Well. Little update. I was getting constant popping and backfiring on deceleration. Figured out my FPR wasn't bad. Just hadn't adjusted it down far enough. So I turned it down to 3.5 psi and it's alot better. Now I just get a pop pop when coming off the throttle then it's smooth coasting. Also I have the pilots turned to 4 turns out. I think that's still too much, might go 3.5 like suggested. Took out my needles to see what thy looked like And I'm right on the center clip. So I can go two steps richer and two leaner. See pic Also my #3 carb coughs once in a while. Not sure what thats about. That's about it for now. Other. Than that it's still running strong! Quote Link to comment
Drummerboy4as Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 Your lean. Popping on decel is a symptom of being too lean as is the lean misfire (carb cough) You may need to increase your pilot jet size. On the carb that is coughing adjust your idle mixture screw until it no longer coughs. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 How? The only thing a stat does is keep the water circulating within the motor and heater core to make it get to operating temp fast so you can have a nice warm heater. Then it pops open and allows the water to flow through the rad to keep a consistent temp after that. Removing the stat just allows it to free flow through the rad all the time. Even on initial startup, causing it to take longer to get warmed up. Am I wrong? Well it isn't just to provide warm water to the heater. Engines are designed to run near boiling point... well 190 ish. Without a thermostat it can be anywhere and will not run as efficiently. Metal clearances on warm engines are closer, rings seal better, Lifters closer to the hot setting...oil is thinner and wastes less energy, water condensation and fuel is boiled off (evaporates) better and keeps the oil cleaner, fuel in the intake and combustion chamber evaporates more efficiently and the motor is more drivable. Cars back in the 40s and 50s ran 160 thermostats, but today's engines like to run hotter because of improved fuels, oils and machining tolerances. All cars run a thermostat. If they were not needed they wouldn't. If your cooling system is working properly you should be able to run a 185 thermostat in Death Valley at noon idling with the air on. All you need is a temperature difference between the motor and the outside air, a large enough rad, enough water circulation and air flow through the rad to remove the excess heat. No i dont think so thats what i always thought to, i remember hearing somewhere that if you take the thermostat out instead of regulating the water flow when its at whatever temp, it flows freely and doesnt allow time for the water to cool in the radiator, i dunno, just something i never thought twice about! ill pull it out, its summer anyway Rubbish! Without a thermostat there is no regulation of the engine temp. The engine temp would rely on how much heat it's making, and how cold it is outside, assuming the rad and the fan are unchanged. If 30 below it might still not read on the gauge while driving down the road as huge amounts of cold air is forced through the rad. At 50 degrees it will still read low. At 80-90 it will be closer to normal at idle/low speed but will drop slightly on the highway. Quote Link to comment
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