I just bought my first 1968 520

[Jkeith]

I have just foung and bought a 1968 Datsun 520. I'm only 21 and am wanting to make it a build truck since it is a true barn find vehicle (I'm the second owner and the first bought it brand new, used it to go to and from the grocery store and to get around his farm, once he got too old he put it a barn for 20 years until he passed away when his grandson had to sell it due to not being able to fix it for time constraints). The body is in near perfect shape with only 2 or 3 nickle sized rust spots and a rust free frame. The engine still runs and drives after sitting for as long as it does and only needs a few small parts to run perfectly. Since it will be my first build truck, I was wondering if there were any small things that I would need to know once i get knee deep into restoring it that would hinder me had I not known. I appreciate any response. As for pictures, the link to see them is here: http://imgur.com/gallery/e5oYG2o (I'm posting from an android phone so posting pictures is nearly impossible)

Edited June 18, 2020 by Jkeith
Added picture link

[]2eDeYe]

Welcome, sounds like you scored a winner. 

 

That truck will be all SAE hardware.

You will want to lube everything and be ready to start replacing seals and cylinders as they fail. 

 

Whats the plan?

[Jkeith]

1 minute ago, ]2eDeYe said:

Welcome, sounds like you scored a winner. 

 

That truck will be all SAE hardware.

You will want to lube everything and be ready to start replacing seals and cylinders as they fail. 

 

Whats the plan?

I appreciate the encouragement but what do you mean SAE hardware? And as for the seals and cylinders i have plans to pull and rebuild the motor just to play it safe since it has sat as long as it has. I have already ordered and received a new fuse box and wiring kit to replace all the original wiring as well as all seals and gaskets all the way around. Then once the motor is done I plan on going over the suspension and making sure it's straight and the control arms are structurally sound as well as getting new tires. Then come the interior which needs a full restore and finally comes paint where im wanting to paint it sky blue with a white roof as it's already a little darker blue with a white roof, just some spots have minimal surface rust that can be sanded off when paints since all the body panels and bed are in perfect working condition.

[]2eDeYe]

No metric fasteners.

 

Good plan.

Don’t forget the hydraulic systems as well.  Brakes and clutch have seals that will deteriorate over time.

[Jkeith]

32 minutes ago, ]2eDeYe said:

No metric fasteners.

 

Good plan.

Don’t forget the hydraulic systems as well.  Brakes and clutch have seals that will deteriorate over time.

Oh ok, thank you. But it actually has a brand new clutch in it. His grandfather replaced it before he got too bad off to do anything with it but like I said, I already had plans on all the seals all the way around. I'm having my dad help with it along the way in case of little seals like that I may not think to replace because he was a mechanic for 15 years and then a diesel mechanic for another 20 after that so anything small. His main expertise though are american classics so there may be some things he may not know about either.

[bilzbobaggins]

Cool.  Another Datsun in Georgia.  I go through Ringgold ofter going between Summerville and Cleveland.  Welcome to the show.

[Jkeith]

Just now, bilzbobaggins said:

Cool.  Another Datsun in Georgia.  I go through Ringgold ofter going between Summerville and Cleveland.  Welcome to the show.

Thanks a lot. I think the build process should take maybe a year to year and a half to complete to the level I want before I deem it road worthy but I do Plan to post pictures along the way if allowed by the mods since the original seller asked us to take and send him pictures as we rebuild it in return for selling it to us for so cheap.

[Draker]

Why would you replace the factory wiring harness? If it’s just sitting I’m sure it’s fine. Don’t get carried away or you’ll never get it all done. 

[wayno]

I would not tear the engine down unless it had issues like burning a lot of oil or some other real identifiable issue.

I would do the brakes and suspension first, get it running, driving, and stopping, then decide on what to do next, you also need to make sure the king pins are lubed, if you drive around with them dry they will not last long, same with all the tie rods, grease everything with a zerk fitting, U-joints, and maybe even the e-brake cables have them.

Check all the fluids and drive it, get it reliable, then decide if you really want to do anything with that engine, it is not a popular engine, parts for them are hard to find, but some MG stuff will work on it, like the MGB or MG Midget distributor, they even have electronic distributors that will bolt right in and tune up parts are readily available.

I say drive it a while first, then make big plans, it is easy to get in too deep and then run out of resources or find parts are unavailable or very expensive.

[Jkeith]

16 minutes ago, wayno said:

I would not tear the engine down unless it had issues like burning a lot of oil or some other real identifiable issue.

I would do the brakes and suspension first, get it running, driving, and stopping, then decide on what to do next, you also need to make sure the king pins are lubed, if you drive around with them dry they will not last long, same with all the tie rods, grease everything with a zerk fitting, U-joints, and maybe even the e-brake cables have them.

Check all the fluids and drive it, get it reliable, then decide if you really want to do anything with that engine, it is not a popular engine, parts for them are hard to find, but some MG stuff will work on it, like the MGB or MG Midget distributor, they even have electronic distributors that will bolt right in and tune up parts are readily available.

I say drive it a while first, then make big plans, it is easy to get in too deep and then run out of resources or find parts are unavailable or very expensive.

Surprisingly I have found entire rebuild kits for it and all the parts for it I have found cheap and readily available. But like I had stated prior, I plan on doing almost a complete resopration of it. I'm not worried about getting too deep because I got the running and driving truck for $500 with minimal mechanical needs and I have no intention on selling it, this will essentially be my money is no object build since I plan on keeping it and potentially passing it down to my children one day. Once it's done i plan on making it my daily driver since I don't drive enough to do major wear and tear on it. I appreciate the advice though and will use it once I get into the work and will look into what you told me first. 

[zed1]

Welcome the the Datsun Standard Thread Owner's Club.  There's a lot of knowledge on this Forum...
Some hints:

Search then ask questions
Post photos, pictures speak a thousand words
Share solutions that work and that don't work...we all learn from others experiences.

Keith

[Jkeith]

1 minute ago, zed1 said:

Welcome the the Datsun Standard Thread Owner's Club.  There's a lot of knowledge on this Forum...
Some hints:

Search then ask questions
Post photos, pictures speak a thousand words
Share solutions that work and that don't work...we all learn from others experiences.

Keith

Thank you for the welcome and I appreciate the advice. Im still trying to figure out how everything works on here so I appreciate the help.

[]2eDeYe]

8 hours ago, Jkeith said:

Oh ok, thank you. But it actually has a brand new clutch in it.

 

The mechanical parts should be in good shape. It's the hydraulic system that controls them that have seals that can fail. 

 

 

[420n620]

before tearing into your datsun, post some pic's of the 520 so the members can have an idea what you got. Don't be ripping anything apart, that's how some projects become part vehicles and end up in a scrap yard. Does your dad have a shop / car port for a working area ? Cause it's going to sit awhile while you perform some work on the engine and electrical to get it running correct, remember it's been sitting for years and the engine is going to need pre-lubed before you even get it running, gas tank drained, new oil /oil filter, new gas, the electrical connectors need cleaned, etc etc etc. 

There's lots of members that can help you through a process to make sure you get it done correctly.  Like mentioned above. 

Anyways, take your time and do it right so you don't waste time and "" money """.  yeah MONEY, hope you saved up. 

Congrats on the score and welcome to the form. now get them pic's up cause the picture whores will be asking for them, like me for a start. lol 🙂  

[Jkeith]

1 minute ago, ]2eDeYe said:

 

The mechanical parts should be in good shape. It's the hydraulic system that controls them that have seals that can fail. 

 

 

Oh ok. Thank you for the tip, I will have to look them over and see if they are still good or need to be replaced.

[Jkeith]

1 minute ago, 420n620 said:

before tearing into your datsun, post some pic's of the 520 so the members can have an idea what you got. Don't be ripping anything apart, that's how some projects become part vehicles and end up in a scrap yard. Does your dad have a shop / car port for a working area ? Cause it's going to sit awhile while you perform some work on the engine and electrical to get it running correct, remember it's been sitting for years and the engine is going to need pre-lubed before you even get it running, gas tank drained, new oil /oil filter, new gas, the electrical connectors need cleaned, etc etc etc. 

There's lots of members that can help you through a process to make sure you get it done correctly.  Like mentioned above. 

Anyways, take your time and do it right so you don't waste time and "" money """.  yeah MONEY, hope you saved up. 

Congrats on the score and welcome to the form. now get them pic's up cause the picture whores will be asking for them, like me for a start. lol 🙂  

Like I said before to another member, I'm still learning how this forum's interface works so posting pictures will take some time but I do plan on posting pictures since the guy I bought it from asked for progress pictures of the build since it was in his family. But I plan on doing the work in a enclosed in carport and when the engine work is being done, the engine will be done in a fully enclosed building. But like I had said to someone else too, Money isn't the issue. This is basically my money is no object build and plan on doing as much work as it takes and spending as much as I need to get it how I want due to it's sentimental value to myself and who I bought it from and I plan to one day pass it down to my children. Honestly, by the time it's done it will be fully tore down and restored to as close to original as possible. But I have been trying to figure out how to insert images into posts. Thank you 🙂

[Charlie69]

Welcome to Ratsun, congrats on your 520 find.  I own a 66 520 and have done lots mods and work on it.  It has been a ten year project that I need to finish.  I drive a 1986 720  king cab and it takes a lot of maintenance to keep these old trucks on the road. 

 

As far as your 68 520 my suggestion to you is to buy double of any wear items that you find as the parts for these little trucks are drying up.  Many of the parts I have purchased for mine over the years have come in as not the correct parts. 

 

Get the window rubbers and have them on hand for when you do the paint.  Do the paint right in the tearing the truck completely down including the bed and cab off the frame.  Sand blast the frame and paint or powder coat.  Order a set of king pins to have on hand for when you need them.  My 66 is on a 1980 720 chassis for many upgrade reasons.  Ask your Dad not to sell off his mechanical tools as you will need them and probably have to buy more.  There were many unexpected things I ran into on my build that I finally after doing many mods to the frame and talking with Wayno that I decided to put the 720 chassis under my truck.  I had already put the Mike Klotz disc brake kit on my 66 chassis and done motor mounts and transmission mounts for the L20B automatic when I decided to change the frame out. 

 

It took me and 3 other friends 6 hours to get the engine and transmission as a unit into the 66 520on the 66 frame.  It was a very tight fit. and this lead to Replacing the firewall and also swapping the chassis.  There were many clearance issues.

 

If you plan on staying stock with your build the best  upgrade you can do for is a disk brake upgrade.  I support the Mike Klotz disc brake kit over the others as his kit upgrades the hubs to the 720 hubs which make the wheel bearings cheap and easy to get.

 

The other thing I can suggest is when you install your windshield to at that time have the the new windshield rubber seal because the bottom corners of the seal almost always leak in the rain.  Passenger side is the worst.  Pull out what floor covering you have and check both side for rust or any signs of the windshield leaking.

 

Do not be afraid to ask any questions as there are a lot of veteran Datsun owners/builders on this and other sights. 

 

Most of all enjoy your 520.

Edited June 18, 2020 by Charlie69

[Jkeith]

11 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

Welcome to Ratsun, congrats on your 520 find.  I own a 66 520 and have done lots mods and work on it.  It has been a ten year project that I need to finish.  I drive a 1986 720  king cab and it takes a lot of maintenance to keep these old trucks on the road. 

 

As far as your 68 520 my suggestion to you is to buy double of any wear items that you find as the parts for these little trucks are drying up.  Many of the parts I have purchased for mine over the years have come in as not the correct parts. 

 

Get the window rubbers and have them on hand for when you do the paint.  Do the paint right in the tearing the truck completely down including the bed and cab off the frame.  Sand blast the frame and paint or powder coat.  Order a set of king pins to have on hand for when you need them.  My 66 is on a 1980 720 chassis for many upgrade reasons.  Ask your Dad not to sell off his mechanical tools as you will need them and probably have to buy more.  There were many unexpected things I ran into on my build that I finally after doing many mods to the frame and talking with Wayno that I decided to put the 720 chassis under my truck.  I had already put the Mike Klotz disc brake kit on my 66 chassis and done motor mounts and transmission mounts for the L20B automatic when I decided to change the frame out. 

 

It took me and 3 other friends 6 hours to get the engine and transmission as a unit into the 66 520on the 66 frame.  It was a very tight fit. and this lead to Replacing the firewall and also swapping the chassis.  There were many clearance issues.

 

If you plan on staying stock with your build the best  upgrade you can do for is a disk brake upgrade.  I support the Mike Klotz disc brake kit over the others as his kit upgrades the hubs to the 720 hubs which make the wheel bearings cheap and easy to get.

 

The other thing I can suggest is when you install your windshield to at that time have the the new windshield rubber seal because the bottom corners of the seal almost always leak in the rain.  Passenger side is the worst.  Pull out what floor covering you have and check both side for rust or any signs of the windshield leaking.

 

Do not be afraid to ask any questions as there are a lot of veteran Datsun owners/builders on this and other sights. 

 

Most of all enjoy your 520.

I really appreciate your response and for the tips. I certainly will use them and look into upgrading those parts but I did intend on pulling it all apart before paint and sand blasting so I'm glad I at least had that right in my mind lol. But as far as parts go, they've been surprisingly easy to find and usually under $50 which is why even both my parents said it'd be best to buy in double or triples just to be safe and the seals around all the windows are dry rotted so I intended on buying the replacement seal kits for them but thanks to your tip I know to pay special attention to those areas. But there were no carpeting on the floors but surprisingly there were no major rust holes. The only spots I've noticed so far is the roof above the driver that's abt the size of maybe a golf ball, one on the driver side floor panel that is smaller than a dime and one around the same size in the bed but from what my dad has told me (since he has had to do rust repair fabrication before) that they look like easy fixes as they havent gotten too bad yet. I was honestly surprised in how well the body was in tact. All in all though I can garauntee you will see more of me on here as I can use all the tips and help I can get. Thanks again for the support 🙂

[bilzbobaggins]

And another tip, best way to search is to go to google, Put "ratsun" followed by whatever you are searching for.  The in house search function is bad.

[Draker]

Don't replace stuff that doesn't need replacing. You're just going to waste money that you could spend on something else. 

 

Prerequisites:

- Ensure you have the title and all paperwork sorted out and in your name.

 

Step one: Try to get it running.

- Does it run? If not, figure out why. Fuel, Spark, Compression, Timing.

- Does it smoke?

- Does it make any weird noises?

- Does it run rough?

 

Step two: Go through the fuel system.

- Is the tank rusted inside?

- Replace all rubber lines

- Are the fuel lines plugged?

- Does the fuel sender work?

- Is the fuel pump working?

- Replace fuel filter

- If the engine runs poor, adjust or rebuild/replace carb

 

Step Three: Get the brakes and hydraulics working.

- Replace all soft brake lines

- Replace or rebuilt brake master cylinder

- Replace or rebuilt clutch master

- Replace or rebuild clutch slave

- Are any calipers seized?

 

Step Four: Get it moving under its own power. (this doesn't mean highway driving. can it move forward and backwards in your driveway)

- Does the clutch work? 

- Dies it die when you put it in gear?

- May need to replace clutch. (I always replace if there is one available)

 

Step Five: Get it ready for the road.

- New tires

- Replace worn suspension components

- Replace steering components

- Are the lights working? (Head, tail, turn, reverse, hazards)

- Minor interior work needed to ensure a safe first test drive on the road.

 

If you find for example you are trying to get the engine running and it smoke like a pig and sounds terrible, then diagnose it. Take steps to remediate it, the move on.

 

Now that you have solid base, start body work and making it look pretty. The end result, it will be restored and the projects will be broken down into manageable phases. I may have skipped some details, but use your imagination to fill in the blanks. This also assumes the vehicle is complete, or nearly complete. Meaning, it's not a shell, it's not missing random critical parts. Otherwise, source those parts first.

 

If you just start in the middle somewhere, and start ripping it all apart... it's not going to your kids; It's going to a scrap yard because you will lose interest. We don't say this because we don't want you to have fun with your build. We say it because many of us have been on here or into vintage vehicles for decades. We have seen it all. We've seen beautiful cars trashed... sold, scrapped. We've seen cars trade hands several times.. could tell you who owned the car, who modified the car.. and who killed the car.

 

Best of luck on your new project.

Edited June 18, 2020 by Draker

[gene knight]

welcome to ratsun