Truck pulls to right when braking

[TimmyG]

Needs a little help on this. Truck pulls to the right when braking. Alignment seems ok and truck seems to track straight most if the time on flat, not extremely crowned or pitched roads. 

 

I'm not sure, but I believe my right front tire is locking up under hard braking while its pulling to the right. This problem seems to increase as the brakes get warmer from repeated testing.

 

If you are going slow (parking lot), then let go of steering wheel the truck goes straight until you hit the brakes. Upon applying the brakes you can visibly see the steering wheel turn to the right as it pulls the truck right. 

 

Inspected front brakes and found the DRIVER side pads badly worn. Passenger side had nearly double the pad material remaining when compared. Rotors are not badly grooved or warped. Brakes dont pulse/shake. Don't squeal aside from infrequent squeak, squeak, squeak when first backing out of driveway. I have not looked inside rear drums.

 

I also noticed passenger upper A arm had a VERY loose nut. Tightened that down. Ball joints (upper and lower) have puked all their grease due to failed dust boots. Tire pressures are equal. 

 

Any ideas? Confused as to why the DRIVER side pads are worn so badly in comparison. 

 

Is this manifold block for the fronts a part that ever fails/gets blocked? 

 

 

 

 

[620slodat]

First, I'm not a brake expert. In the last pic the pad on the caliper piston is definitely more worn than the other pad. I think this is because the caliper pad is dragging more than the other. Check, clean, or replace the pins that go between the pads. If the pin is not clean and free from rust/corrosion/debris the pads can't equally apply pressure when the brakes are applied.

 

Don

[Crashtd420]

620slodat is on the right track.... to add to that your caliper might not be returning ... that would create drag when not apply the brakes..... 

But I'm more inclined to blame the pins....

 

If the caliper cant slide on the pins then It cant clamp both sides equally, it will only extend the pad closest to the piston and cause that one to wear quicker... the outside pad relys on the ability to slide on those pins.....

[TimmyG]

31 minutes ago, 620slodat said:

First, I'm not a brake expert. In the last pic the pad on the caliper piston is definitely more worn than the other pad. I think this is because the caliper pad is dragging more than the other. Check, clean, or replace the pins that go between the pads. If the pin is not clean and free from rust/corrosion/debris the pads can't equally apply pressure when the brakes are applied.

 

Don

 

7 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

620slodat is on the right track.... to add to that your caliper might not be returning ... that would create drag when not apply the brakes..... 

But I'm more inclined to blame the pins....

 

If the caliper cant slide on the pins then It cant clamp both sides equally, it will only extend the pad closest to the piston and cause that one to wear quicker... the outside pad relys on the ability to slide on those pins.....

 

Thanks guys, that's a good tip and I will look at getting them cleaned, greased, and new dust boots if sold. 

 

However, this caliper is the DRIVER side and the truck pulls to the PASS side when braking...and those PASS side pads (not pictured) have almost twice the meat of the most worn pad shown here. Doesn't make sense to me, unless someone only replaced pads on one side at some time... none of it explains why the truck pull to the pass side. Am I missing something?

Edited September 24, 2019 by TimmyG
Clairfying

[Crashtd420]

Could be the passenger side is actually doing all the work and the driverside could just be along for the ride.....

Dragging and grinding the pads down...

 

[TimmyG]

6 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Could be the passenger side is actually doing all the work and the driverside could just be along for the ride.....

Dragging and grinding the pads down...

 

 

I assumed if that is the case the PASS side pads would be the ones worn out...but it's the driver side pads that are shot. This is why I'm confused. 

[Crashtd420]

The way I see it is the passenger side is doing its job correctly because ( I think you said) the pads look good..... 

Its clamping and releasing properly....

 

Most likely the pins are stuck on the driveside so the only pad moving is the pad closest to the caliper vs both ....

This would give you poor braking from the driver side causing extra wear on that inside pad and leaving the passenger side to do all the work.....

[TimmyG]

1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

The way I see it is the passenger side is doing its job correctly because ( I think you said) the pads look good..... 

Its clamping and releasing properly....

 

Most likely the pins are stuck on the driveside so the only pad moving is the pad closest to the caliper vs both ....

This would give you poor braking from the driver side causing extra wear on that inside pad and leaving the passenger side to do all the work.....

 

That does make sense. I guess I didnt think of it this way. Thanks. I will rebuild the calipers with new seals, clean, grease everything and see if that works. Hopefully the piston and slides are still ok to re-use. 

[TimmyG]

Also, the slide pins are not stuck on the drivers side because I just took that caliper off yesterday to throw some pads in there from a parts truck temporarily. Just wanted to get those worn pads off there since I do drive it.

[Crashtd420]

1 minute ago, TimmyG said:

Also, the slide pins are not stuck on the drivers side because I just took that caliper off yesterday to throw some pads in there from a parts truck temporarily. Just wanted to get those worn pads off there since I do drive it.

I have had a caliper that would only move so much and it wasnt enough to actually stop the vehicle..... they would just move in and out but never extend any further.....

You could take the caliper and make sure the piston is extending and releasing properly.....  I leave the pads in and then press the pedal till it closes it should not stay tight.....

 

This was a similar issue I had with my Chevy and I had to replace the caliper.... 

So a rebuild or replacement of your caliper might be the trick.... 

[bilzbobaggins]

Worn ball joint will cause this same thing as well.  Not saying I think it is, but my hardbody is like this.

 

[TimmyG]

1 hour ago, bilzbobaggins said:

Worn ball joint will cause this same thing as well.  Not saying I think it is, but my hardbody is like this.

 

 

These ball joints look scary and I'll be replacing all of them soon anyway. Especially before I upgrade wheels/tires (more weight) lol. 

Edited September 24, 2019 by TimmyG

[TimmyG]

2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

I have had a caliper that would only move so much and it wasnt enough to actually stop the vehicle..... they would just move in and out but never extend any further.....

You could take the caliper and make sure the piston is extending and releasing properly.....  I leave the pads in and then press the pedal till it closes it should not stay tight.....

 

This was a similar issue I had with my Chevy and I had to replace the caliper.... 

So a rebuild or replacement of your caliper might be the trick.... 

 

Last night I swapped some better pads into that drivers caliper just to get me by without damaging the rotor... I usually compress the piston with a C clamp. I noticed it was extremely hard to compress the piston, especially at first. After driving the truck with the "new" pads on drivers side it still acts the same.

 

I have a piston seal rebuild kit so I'll give that a shot next. It was $6, the brake fluid was $5, and I already have 2 crush washer that I'm hoping are the right size. Ha.

Edited September 24, 2019 by TimmyG

[datzenmike]

Check the condition of the tension rod bushings. These things...

 

If the rubbers are worn out and the tension rod loose, the wheel on the end of the lower control arm will pull to the rear when the brakes are applied. As it's connected to the lower control arm it will be forced to swing in an arc and toe out, pulling the truck to that side.

 

Severe wear of pads may be due to the opposite side pads not doing any work at all.

 

If the pins are stuck usually only one pad has the most wear. The caliper piston side.

 

Pulling to one side can also be the result of the opposite side rear brake doing more work than it's partner on the other side. Maybe just need adjusting to even them up.

[TimmyG]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Check the condition of the tension rod bushings. These things...

 

If the rubbers are worn out and the tension rod loose, the wheel on the end of the lower control arm will pull to the rear when the brakes are applied. As it's connected to the lower control arm it will be forced to swing in an arc and toe out, pulling the truck to that side.

 

Severe wear of pads may be due to the opposite side pads not doing any work at all.

 

If the pins are stuck usually only one pad has the most wear. The caliper piston side.

 

Pulling to one side can also be the result of the opposite side rear brake doing more work than it's partner on the other side. Maybe just need adjusting to even them up.

 

Good heads up on all of this...I will look into it. I'm sure the bushing on tension rods are worn. Everything is looking old and cracked by now. Not sure if it's loose.

 

Haven't looked at the drum brakes yet. Were they not self adjusting?

 

I took off both front calipers to inspect and the slides were not stuck. The driver's side pads pictured above were worn badly (and unevenly) vs the pass side pads having more pad material (pulls to pass side).

[datzenmike]

Your profile does not list the year of your truck and I'm to lazy to go through all your posts and can't remember If I did know, but yes self adjusters were introduced in '81 or '82. Even so, a wheel cylinder may be leaking onto the shoes reducing the grip on one side.

[TimmyG]

21 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Your profile does not list the year of your truck and I'm to lazy to go through all your posts and can't remember If I did know, but yes self adjusters were introduced in '81 or '82. Even so, a wheel cylinder may be leaking onto the shoes reducing the grip on one side.

 

Truck is an 84. I will update my profile.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Get a pair of rebuilt calipers at your local auto parts store. They're probably only about $40 each (with core). I bet your problems will all but disappear.

 

If you have play in your balljoints or tie rod ends, you will get pull during braking, but it won't always be to one side.

[canon3383]

I had the same problem on my 85 KC 2wd, replaced pads, rebuilt the calipers myself, running great now. The 85 has an adjusters for the rear drum brakes, as I had to replace the brake line from the frame to rear axle, that hose had dry rotted and was acting like a one way valve. I plan on replacing the front hoses soon, as I worry the will do the same.

[datzenmike]

Self adjusting rear brakes were introduced December '81 about half way through the '82 model year. The '82 model year starts in July '81.

[TimmyG]

5 hours ago, canon3383 said:

I had the same problem on my 85 KC 2wd, replaced pads, rebuilt the calipers myself, running great now. The 85 has an adjusters for the rear drum brakes, as I had to replace the brake line from the frame to rear axle, that hose had dry rotted and was acting like a one way valve. I plan on replacing the front hoses soon, as I worry the will do the same.

 

Any tips for rebuilding the calipers? Did you replace the piston, slides, or just do the piston seal, boot, and slide boots?

[TimmyG]

9 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Get a pair of rebuilt calipers at your local auto parts store. They're probably only about $40 each (with core). I bet your problems will all but disappear.

 

If you have play in your balljoints or tie rod ends, you will get pull during braking, but it won't always be to one side.

Trying to avoid spending the $100 for two remanufactured calipers, but might. I do plan on replacing the ball joints. They are all sad looking. Have not looked at rear brakes or tie rod ends yet. Just haven't gotten to finish this endeavor yet.

[datzenmike]

How much side to side play in the steering wheel?

[TimmyG]

31 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

How much side to side play in the steering wheel?

 

Not much at all. Truck running (power steering) you can turn the wheel left maybe 1/2 inch from dead center or right maybe 1/2 inch from dead center.... anything more in either direction and the tires move. So a total of roughly 1 inch dead travel on center combined. It's hardly noticeable and feels pretty good. By comparison, that 4wd I had was super dead on center. Lots of dead slack. 

[bottomwatcher]

I just rebuilt my front end (again) last month. The braking can get wonky from just the front end being worn out. Age blows out the rubber boots an moisture takes care of the rest. You bought an old neglected vehicle. The price may have been low when you bought it but basically you bought a large collection of old worn out parts in the shape of a datsun! We all have them, if you want it to perform like a new datsun you have to replace all the old parts.