Truck pulls to right when braking

[TimmyG]

1 hour ago, bottomwatcher said:

I just rebuilt my front end (again) last month. The braking can get wonky from just the front end being worn out. Age blows out the rubber boots an moisture takes care of the rest. You bought an old neglected vehicle. The price may have been low when you bought it but basically you bought a large collection of old worn out parts in the shape of a datsun! We all have them, if you want it to perform like a new datsun you have to replace all the old parts. 

 

Oh I am well aware of what I've got. Lol. It wasn't by accident. I have owned more than a few 720s. Just trying to correct the pulling issue while braking for now. Lots of new parts are on the list regardless. I plan to keep this 720 for a very long time. 

[canon3383]

10 hours ago, TimmyG said:

 

Any tips for rebuilding the calipers? Did you replace the piston, slides, or just do the piston seal, boot, and slide boots?

I replaced the piston seal, boot and slide boots only, everything else cleaned up nice and I inspected for ware, they looked good. 1000 miles of driving and no problems.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Someone else mentioned a swollen brake hose. This could also be the problem. That or a crudded up hard line.

 

If the fluid in the system is any color other than clear with a tinge of yellow, you should probably blow out all the lines and hoses to be sure none of them are clogged.

[TimmyG]

4 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Someone else mentioned a swollen brake hose. This could also be the problem. That or a crudded up hard line.

 

If the fluid in the system is any color other than clear with a tinge of yellow, you should probably blow out all the lines and hoses to be sure none of them are clogged.

 

Fluid looks awful! Lol 

[datzenmike]

A swollen brake hose would make the application mushy but wouldn't make one side brake harder than the other.

[TimmyG]

On 9/24/2019 at 9:45 AM, 620slodat said:

First, I'm not a brake expert. In the last pic the pad on the caliper piston is definitely more worn than the other pad. I think this is because the caliper pad is dragging more than the other. Check, clean, or replace the pins that go between the pads. If the pin is not clean and free from rust/corrosion/debris the pads can't equally apply pressure when the brakes are applied.

 

Don

 

On 9/24/2019 at 10:09 AM, Crashtd420 said:

620slodat is on the right track.... to add to that your caliper might not be returning ... that would create drag when not apply the brakes..... 

But I'm more inclined to blame the pins....

 

If the caliper cant slide on the pins then It cant clamp both sides equally, it will only extend the pad closest to the piston and cause that one to wear quicker... the outside pad relys on the ability to slide on those pins.....

 

On 9/24/2019 at 10:26 AM, Crashtd420 said:

Could be the passenger side is actually doing all the work and the driverside could just be along for the ride.....

Dragging and grinding the pads down...

 

 

You guys called it. The driver caliper was bad, causing the truck to pull to the right side when braking...also causing accelerated wear to driver side pads. 

 

First plan today was rebuild the caliper.

 

 

Then here's what it looked like after I cleaned it with brake cleaner. Not good. 

 

 

So after seeing this and unsuccessfully reassembling it with new seals.... Plan B 

 

 

Truck no longer pulls to the right and it's got fresh brake fluid. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Nice.

 

Did you only replace the one?

 

BTW- a swollen line will cause it to pull, because it won't let the fluid return as fast as normal.

[TimmyG]

3 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Nice.

 

Did you only replace the one?

 

BTW- a swollen line will cause it to pull, because it won't let the fluid return as fast as normal.

 

I did only replace one temporarily because I want the truck driveable this weekend. I am considering swapping the calipers and rotors to the V6 D21 harbody dual piston caliper setup. I THINK it bolts in. I have started another thread asking if anyone here has done it. I've seen people say you need to shim the caliper mounting bracket (not a fan) and I've seen people say it bolts right in. So...?

 

My rotors need to be replaced anyway. The thickness is at or below minimum. I don't have the correct tool to measure (my measurement calipers catch the outer lip of the rotor). 

 

I will probably replace the hoses as well if I'm doing calipers, pads, and rotors anyway. I would like to have a firm and responsive brake pedal.