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TimmyG

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TimmyG last won the day on August 22

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  1. All of this makes perfect sense. Thanks for the explanation. I'm gonna replace the gaskets at the adapter plate/carb/manifold since I know there's a leak. Maybe this will help eliminate the hiccups. Also getting a throttle return spring would help with moderation since currently my gas pedal is very soft. Haha...but let's be honest. I will just mash it harder once it has a return spring. 😏 Might switch to a Weber 38/38 like I had back in the day, or dual side drafts (which I have no experience with).
  2. Safety first! 😁😁😁
  3. @datzenmike After unsuccessfully fixing my exhaust leak today (discovered cracked Y pipe, the part that bolts to bottom of cast iron exhaust manifold)... I decided to change that fuel filter. Tiny little guy cost me $4 haha. Had half a tank of fuel so used a hand pump to empty the tank. Boy that took a while. One old, broken bolt later I got the filter in and she's running. The trans upshift problem is gone. Its fixed again, at least for today! Motor still falls on its face for a second if you floor it. Still bogs if you give it lots of throttle rolling into the gas.... but she shifts into 3rd real nice at WOT about 5500 rpm consistently. This is drag race style WOT through 1, 2, and 3 where she previously would stumble and hang up around 5000 without upshifting into 3rd (just to be clear). You think the fuel filter cured it? If so, why? Thanks.
  4. That's what I figured. Thanks gentlemen
  5. I know this isn't the main fuel filter, but what is it? 84 720 king cab 2wd
  6. Negative, boss. Haven't made it to that yet. I have the filter now. Will change her out today...need to address this exhaust flange leak right now. It's more annoying.
  7. Well, the upshift into 3rd problem is back πŸ‘ŽπŸΌπŸ˜‚. At this point I'm gonna blame the vacuum leak at base of carb/adapter plate. The only things that changed are me spraying carb cleaner there to identify the leak, and the motor cooled off and warmed to operating temp again. Thinking this area is causing a variable degree of vacuum leaking. Could explain it. The new vacuum line routing definitely has the motor running better, but the no shift situation with stumbling around 5,000 rpm in 2nd gear is back. Still only happens if you go WOT and attempt to run through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd sequentially. I figure one day this thread might be useful to someone else scratching their head, so I'll keep updating.
  8. Thanks. I don't mind the canister being there as long as I know what its function is.
  9. Ahhh, makes sense. I understand the TVV operation, just didn't fully know why to limit the ported vacuum going to distributor or canister. Is deleting the canister dangerous? I'm assuming the fuel tank has another vent for filling purposes and pressure relief with rising temps?
  10. So... now it's just pulling ported vacuum all the time, not just when it's warm? What problem could this create or disadvantage could it have? I don't even know what the canister purge means. I never had anyone really explain any of this to me because most people don't know I guess.
  11. Not exactly familiar with how this works. Could you explain?
  12. @datzenmike Well, I solved this today. Took off all the vaccuum lines and capped them off except for one... Ran one line from the carb and split to the vacuum advance at distributor and to the fuel charcoal canister. Truck runs smoother and shifts normally at WOT in all scenarios! No more problem upshifting into 3rd! Also, bogging under hard throttle is gone if you roll into full throttle and its 50% less severe bogging if you smash it wide open suddenly. More on this in a moment... Concerning vacuum lines, I discovered the vacuum advance from distributor wasn't hooked to the carb at all. It was probably mistakenly routed from the carb to the hard line on timing cover that runs to the charcoal canister, instead of the one that runs to the distributor. Also, concerning the bogging...when the truck is idling, if you spray carb cleaner at the base of the carb the engine will bog. There is definitely a vacuum leak at the base. I discovered the mounting nuts on the studs at base of the carb/adapter plate were loose. Tightening them didn't seem to help at all. Test drive showed it still cuts out for a moment if you suddenly go WOT and still bogs if you spray carb cleaner at the base when idling. Seems worse on the side of the carb facing the head/rear of carb. I suppose I need to remove the carb and adapter plate, then replace the gaskets. Maybe I should use some type of gasket sealer and blue locktight the mounting nuts. The before vacuum lines.... The after vacuum lines...
  13. Simple enough. I'll put it on the list! Probably needs to be done anyway, it just wasn't a priority...until now. Auto trans issues is not my strong suite as most of the ones I've owned were newer vehicles that didn't have problems. Thanks, Mike.
  14. Does anyone have pics of their vaccuum line routing for Weber 32/36 on an 83-84 z24 motor? I'm not sure if mine is correct since the carb was already on here. Also, what is this thing on the inner fender (red circle)? Didn't find info on it in my Haynes manual and honestly the FSM is difficult to search specific things with no index.
  15. Well, unfortunately I did not find anything obviously wrong with the vaccuum hoses from the firewall to the hard line on top of trans or the vaccuum elbow to diaphragm on the side of trans. Now that I have a tach, I'm seeing when the trans is actually shifting. From a stop, WOT in 1st, it shifts into 2nd at around 6,000. Keep holding it WOT, and it starts struggling and sputtering around 5,000 in 2nd and will not rev over this or upshift into 3rd unless you let off the gas for a moment. If you let off the gas, it immediately upshifts into 3rd and you can get back to WOT with no more drama. Now the weird part. If you're already in 3rd and you go WOT, the trans will immediately kick down into 2nd and rev smoothly all the way to around 5500-6000 and upshift into 3rd with no bullshit. The truck revs out to 6,000 in neutral with no issue. Now I know you're thinking why rev this underwhelming z24 engine to the moon and why do I care? Because I just want it to run correctly and give me all she can at WOT. I mean, I might want to drag race another 720. 🀣 I could win!
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