]2eDeYe Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 What was that pump out of? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 12 Author Report Share Posted March 12 12 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said: What was that pump out of? Mid 2000s Volvo. They were actually made by Ford for the 2nd gen Focus (which we never got in the US), but since they were doing parts bin sharing with Volvo at the time, it got used in several Volvo models. There are two different versions, one with a built in reservoir (this one) and one with an external reservoir (handy if you want to hide the pump). Speaking of, I was looking at hoses for the power steering and had an idea. Since the gearbox uses standard style fittings (kinda like a brake line), and since the gearbox and pump are both frame mounted, I don't really need flexible hoses for it, so... 😁 Got two brake lines that match up and got to work bending them to shape... Gearbox end... Pump end... Return line flared and ready for a short piece of hose... Flared the feed line also, but took it back out to have a piece of high pressure hose crimped onto it to connect it to the pump end fitting. This way I just have two short pieces of hoses instead of one long run of hose. 👍 I am about to close up the trunk floor, so I decided it was finally time to remove the crusty trunk seal. Will get a new one and fit it shortly... Then moved on to finishing the tail light wiring. Loom hidden behind a lip on the edge of the trunk, with wires for fuel pump and sender dropped out... You can also see there the right tail light is all wired up. Don't worry, those wires are way more tucked than they look in the photo. 😄 Loom tucked into trunk lip, with a wire dropped out for the license lamp... And left side tail light all wired up... Back up front, I decided since the stock wiring for the turn signals was still in decent shape... ...that I would repurpose some of it and tie it into the new harness. This way it all plugs in like stock. 👍 Had to stop there because I did not have any headlight plugs. Got 4 ordered, along with new bulbs, so I should be able to button that up later in the week. Once that is done, the only thing left to wire is the gauges/switches in the dash. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 12 Report Share Posted March 12 Check the pressure rating for the hard line. Most PS systems run at over 1000 psi (1100-1400). Have you ever cut apart a stock power steering hard pressure line? The tubing wall thickness is about double what "normal" hard line uses. I've been tempted to use the green hard line for P/S feed lines, but have never done it because of the high pressure. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 12 Report Share Posted March 12 It appears that the 3/16" hard line has a PSI rating of 17,00 psi, but there is no rating on the website for the 3/8" - 3/16 - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6415473 3/8 - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6413345 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 12 Author Report Share Posted March 12 (edited) 1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Check the pressure rating for the hard line. Most PS systems run at over 1000 psi (1100-1400). Have you ever cut apart a stock power steering hard pressure line? The tubing wall thickness is about double what "normal" hard line uses. I've been tempted to use the green hard line for P/S feed lines, but have never done it because of the high pressure. The Volvo system runs at 850psi at max, but is intended to be a variable assist pump (i.e. not running at full pressure all the time). Since there is no CANBUS to operate the variable system controller in the pump, it runs in "limp mode" at a constant 70% pressure (around 600psi). Under panic braking a steel brake line should handle up to 2,000psi for short bursts, and 800psi for extended usage. I think we are well within the usage limits, since this design of gearbox runs in bypass mode when not is use (wheel straight ahead on the highway), which should limit the chances of leakage. At least that's what my research said before I tried this. We will see if it works. 😁 I am also considering adding an easily accessible "kill switch" to the pump, just in case. This would also offer you the benefit of just turning it off for extended freeway cruising. Edited March 12 by datsunfreak grammar nazi 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 12 Author Report Share Posted March 12 (edited) 1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Have you ever cut apart a stock power steering hard pressure line? The tubing wall thickness is about double what "normal" hard line uses. Also, I have cut apart the Volvo PS line. It is relatively thin wall aluminum, and at least looks much weaker than this steel pipe. I am not engineer. The factory Ford lines (than run at over 1000psi) are steel with a comparable wall thickness to brake line. 👍 Edited March 12 by datsunfreak grammar nazi 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 12 Author Report Share Posted March 12 1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: there is no rating on the website for the 3/8" - I am seeing some sites that say 6000psi. YMMV 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 13 Author Report Share Posted March 13 I don't love the look of it, but it works. Feed side is done... I will probably take it back off and paint all those fittings black at some point... 1 Quote Link to comment
EDM620 Posted March 16 Report Share Posted March 16 On 3/13/2024 at 7:26 AM, datsunfreak said: the look of it Looks like a bottle jack... 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 18 Author Report Share Posted March 18 Well, I meant the look of the hose fittings... 😋 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 19 Author Report Share Posted March 19 (edited) Finally got some new headlights for it, nothing too fancy, and reinstalled the trim... I had bought some new headlight plugs for the harness from amazon and they were absolute garbage. Do not buy. Fortunately my FLAPS had some good ceramic plugs, so I swapped all 4 of those out... Front end wiring is done except for connecting the fan wire (need a radiator first), horn wire (need to decide on a horn first),and running a battery cable for the starter (probably Friday). Hoping Friday to get the battery cables done (at least the front half) so I can get started on wiring the gauges/switches/dash. Then, at least all the wiring is done. Next, it's on to some more plumbing (brake lines and coolant hoses), finish my seat mounts, then hopefully a test drive... 😁 Edited March 19 by datsunfreak 3 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 26 Author Report Share Posted March 26 Front calipers installed... The 18s make them look a bit wee... 😁 Took off the 295/50-18s from the rear (that rubbed like crazy), and installed some 275/45-18s. Fit is much better, and now no rubbing... Also drilled a hole in the center of the firewall to install a bulkhead fitting for the battery cable. This way I don't have to actually pass the cable through the firewall, and it allows me to run multple wires off it. In the engine bay there will be one big cable going down to the starter, then one less big cable going to the power steering pump. Inside I can attach the battery cable that goes to the trunk (new battery home), as well as the feed wire for the fuse box, and anything else that might need a constant 12V power source. 2 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 I had a BIG heavy duty battery disconnect switch in my wags and put a new one in the '40 Ford. I recommend installing one. They are SO handy when it comes to working on the car. I know over the years I have told myself I'd be careful working on the car, and didn't feel like dealing with removing the battery terminal. As a result, I have shorted many wrenches, screwdrivers, and misc things to ground. Nothing horrible ever happened, fortunately, but it sucks out loud when it happens. It's just one of those things that makes me wonder why I never added one sooner. IIRC, don't you have a buyer for that car? Quote Link to comment
EDM620 Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 3 minutes ago, Duncan said: heavy duty battery disconnect switch plus they make a good secondary security kill if mounted somewhere less obvious, old vehicles are too easy to steal Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 27 Author Report Share Posted March 27 4 hours ago, Duncan said: I had a BIG heavy duty battery disconnect switch in my wags and put a new one in the '40 Ford. I recommend installing one. They are SO handy when it comes to working on the car. I know over the years I have told myself I'd be careful working on the car, and didn't feel like dealing with removing the battery terminal. As a result, I have shorted many wrenches, screwdrivers, and misc things to ground. Nothing horrible ever happened, fortunately, but it sucks out loud when it happens. I am using a "racecar" master kill for an ignition switch on this car. Insert it and the fusebox goes hot. Don't insert it and everything is dead except the main battery lead to the starter. Using a master kill on the battery itself presents it's own set of potential problems with the charging system (if you have a "1 wire" alternator). So rather than master kills on the battery itself, we like to use these. They pop the terminal off in 2 seconds, and have a nice side benefit of being able to connect addition wires to the terminal with minimal fuss. 4 hours ago, Duncan said: IIRC, don't you have a buyer for that car? It's actually already sold, but part of our deal was that I would go ahead and finish certain elements of the car. Short version is I obligated myself into making it run, drive, and stop. Nothing really beyond that. I am doing a few cosmetic things that I want done and he is okay with. The rest of the cosmetic stuff is up to him. He has his own shop (in case you didn't notice the surroundings changed), and I am working on it there now. When it was at our shop, I was having trouble making time to work on it (and generating the will to do so), but with it at his shop things have progressed a quicker pace. We have a standing appointment to work on it Mondays and Fridays after work, then Tim and I work at our shop on Wednesdays after work and Saturdays. He has also helped out with some of it (like the steering hard lines), and that would not have been possible with it at our shop, so win-win. 2 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 1 Author Report Share Posted April 1 Finished cutting the rest of the rot out of the trunk floor and permanently installed the Mustang fuel tank. New owner has some plans for how he wants to finish that out to close up the holes. So we shall see how that goes... 😁 If you have concerns, the front (interior side) support rail extends out to above the frame (mounting bolts are outside the frame rail). So if my front beam fails, it should not allow the tank to hit the ground. The rear (bumper side) support rail is completely above the rear frame section, and bolted into very solid metal. Also I had a lady who was about 140 pounds (which is more than a full tank fo fuel) sit on it to see if it moved at all, and it did not. 😋 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted April 1 Report Share Posted April 1 That looks good in there. Is the filler tube threaded so you can put a gas cap on it? It would be cool to have no external visible gas filler. Quote Link to comment
EDM620 Posted April 1 Report Share Posted April 1 I was wondering about the original fill location, isn't it on the side? Don't remember it at the back, but a hidey hole would be nice Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 3 Author Report Share Posted April 3 On 4/1/2024 at 3:33 PM, Duncan said: Is the filler tube threaded so you can put a gas cap on it? No sir, it's just straight pipe. On 4/1/2024 at 3:33 PM, Duncan said: It would be cool to have no external visible gas filler. My original intention was to mount the top 4-5" of the stock fill neck to that pipe, giving me a place for a cap, and the ability to fill through the trunk, so sort of? 😋 If I were going to paint the car (which I would never do), then shaving the gas door would have been on the cards. On 4/1/2024 at 4:04 PM, EDM620 said: I was wondering about the original fill location, isn't it on the side? Don't remember it at the back, but a hidey hole would be nice It is on the left side. I was planning to install a plug there for a battery tender like I did on my 1200 coupe (fuel cell in the trunk). So original plan was fill from the trunk, charger in gas door. After discussing it with the owner on Monday, he would like to attempt to see if we can run a pipe from the stock fill location, down to this neck. It will be a faff, but it is doable. I would have loved to do a rear fill like the Mustang (and loads of old GMs), but the tank is too high in relation to the bumper, and/or the trunk comes down too low. Quote Link to comment
EDM620 Posted April 3 Report Share Posted April 3 16 minutes ago, datsunfreak said: but the tank is too high in relation to the bumper, and/or the trunk comes down too low I hear ya there. A filler right smack in the middle of the trunk face would be a major PITA to get your cooler of beer into the trunk... others might be more concerned about golf clubs but golfing still requires beer IMO 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 3 Author Report Share Posted April 3 1 hour ago, EDM620 said: I hear ya there. A filler right smack in the middle of the trunk face would be a major PITA to get your cooler of beer into the trunk... I am actually considering this for my 240Z build. A Cobra style flip open filler in the decklid, with a pipe from the tank up to the bottom of the hatch. Some gas station attendants tend to freak the fuck out when they see you pumping gas into your trunk. Ask me how I know... 😋 Quote Link to comment
EDM620 Posted April 4 Report Share Posted April 4 Well done vs how it was done makes a difference, I can't imagine spending time enjoying this At least this setup won't be as likely to put your back out just my opinion... Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted April 5 Report Share Posted April 5 (edited) On 4/3/2024 at 8:48 AM, datsunfreak said: I am actually considering this for my 240Z build. A Cobra style flip open filler in the decklid, with a pipe from the tank up to the bottom of the hatch. I'd think you would have to be VERY careful not to overfill that bad boy.. My wags filled from inside the hatch, but the filler was actually below the deck. If it spilled, it would spill on the tank under the floor. Fortunately, that never happened. My '55 Caddie also had a taillight filler like the '56 Chevy above. Everybody I showed that to loved it 🙂 Edited April 5 by Duncan Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 7 Author Report Share Posted April 7 On 4/4/2024 at 7:29 PM, Duncan said: I'd think you would have to be VERY careful not to overfill that bad boy.. My wags filled from inside the hatch, but the filler was actually below the deck. If it spilled, it would spill on the tank under the floor. Fortunately, that never happened. Well, my plan was to use this type of device (see below) mounted to the fuel cell, so the flip up cobra thingy is not actually the "cap", it's just how you access the cap. Then I could run an overfill/drain hose from this "bucket" dow to the ground. 2 Quote Link to comment
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