banzai510(hainz) Posted February 24, 2021 Report Share Posted February 24, 2021 how you hook up the distributor? what coil set up? I forgot what was so special about those saudi distributors? I thought they were point dizzys. then one would need a ballast and point or stock coil. Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted February 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2021 48 minutes ago, MikeRL411 said: Then it's ready for most car shows. All show / no go. Oh it will be go because VG33 and 180HP. 3 Quote Link to comment
vetteguy22 Posted February 25, 2021 Report Share Posted February 25, 2021 I found that valve but it’s attached to a complete heater unit. Not sure I want to separate it. I I’m willing to sell it as a complete assembly. Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted February 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2021 Can you PM me more details and cost for the whole unit - this might still be easier than rebuilding a valve. If I have to pull the whole unit out to get the valve off, maybe just stuffing in a whole new unit might be a good option. Is the unit known to be good? Thanks Quote Link to comment
vetteguy22 Posted February 26, 2021 Report Share Posted February 26, 2021 It should be good. I pulled it from the car I built for my wife which I put vintage heat and air in. I know it didn’t leak and the controls seemed to move correctly but I never drove the car with it. I’ll check it out better tomorrow and see if I can’t get you some pics of it. Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted March 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 I will be installing my shortened drive shaft in a couple of weeks (when I get it back) and wanted to use new bolts. Any recommendations for using 8.8. 10.9, or 12.9 hardened bolts? I want to order them now so they are here at the same time as the driveshaft. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 5, 2021 Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 A metric 10.9 is equivalent to a grade 8. Make sure they are not threaded all the way to the head. I don't know what that E area is but unthreaded is stronger where the two flanges meet.. Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted March 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 So 10.9 is good enough? Rather than 12.9 (grade 10?) Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted March 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 One job partially done - light works, just need to get the door switch to work. And received parts for the next job... Thanks to TJ (Yenpit) for the great job rebuilding a heater control valve - new innards and painted too. Ooooh, now I get to crawl under the dashboard. Ouch, ouch, ouch. 🙂 3 Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted April 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2021 I did contortions today and replaced the heater control valve. Pulled the heater box out to do it since the screws were rusted in and I stripped the Phillips slot right out. Remind me to never complain about rusted horn screws again. Seems like I did a lot of work on the car, but only crossed one thing off the list: Only 70 days until Powerland '21 so I have to get this going! 1 Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted April 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 Driveshaft in and reverse light sender loosened so tomorrow I will put new trans fluid in and see if I can back the car out of the garage at idle - because I don't have a throttle cable or gas pedal. So that's what I am on the hunt for. Apparently something from a Sentra works, but no one has exact details - here is what carterb has in his race car: which is what I am looking for and here is the best part diagram and number I can find: and the cable: All parts are discontinued and I have no pick and pull near me. I put it out to row52 and central grade autoparts in Idaho. Posting in classifieds also. 🙂 Quote Link to comment
vetteguy22 Posted April 7, 2021 Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 If I remember correctly I used the pedal and cable from a 1985 200sx that I had parted out. Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted April 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 1 hour ago, vetteguy22 said: If I remember correctly I used the pedal and cable from a 1985 200sx that I had parted out. Thanks for the thought, however it appears that the pedal pivot is on the wrong side until later style 1995-1999 that might fit. Anyone btdt with exact correctness. 🙂 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 7, 2021 Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 I thought a B210 pedal will work also. Uses a cable Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted April 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 5 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: I thought a B210 pedal will work also. Uses a cable Looks like it might work with modification of bends of rod. The rod of the pedal on carterb's racecar is a perfect fit - so I am hoping to find that same model. Thx. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 7, 2021 Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 I had a B210 pedal in my yellow 510 and was the pedal to get back in the day. I cant remember if also the cable but assume so for the Nissam Comp manifold. was sold thru the catalog at the time. it was sold with a threaded plate one fluses up the the fire wall from inside and the cable threaded on the other and helt it together. really simple but worked. what I did it took my stock 510 pedal and welded a end from another pedal so I coudl keep both the 510 ball end set up or the slot for a wire. have to use a Maunual pedal as the auto pedal were too close to the brake pedal Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 7, 2021 Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 (edited) here soem stuff pieced together or I still might have straight pedal is from automatic(not used) I thinki found another pedal with a wire slot I cut ot off and weleded it to the left side of that ball on the stock 510 pedal and never used the B210 pedal at all(b210 is the one with the stopper) Edited April 7, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted April 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 Thanks Banzai, All the pedals like the ones you have do not have the kink bend back to the right above the pivot point. I need that to line up the rod with the existing 510 hole. I am sure I can make a slot or something to adapt a cable if the rod does not have that, but I don't want to try and bend a rod unless it is the last resort. Pedals from automatics appear to be worse than manuals. I'll keep looking - if Carter can find one, I am sure one will turn up for me. Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted April 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 Backed the car out of the garage under its own power today! Yay, everything turns. I still do not have a gas pedal or accelerator linkage, so it went out idling by itself. 1 Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted April 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 I've got coolage now. Original 510 fan shroud bolts right up to the new radiator and I fit a Spal electric fan inside the shroud. Just need to get the fan thermostat switch installed. 4 Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted April 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2021 Found a jack and where to put it. Just under the front seat edge. Air filter installed - 10" that I will run until I make sure I have clearance for something bigger if I want. Started to do some interior clean up - replaced vinyl trim under the doors. One down, three to go. Have to keep at it...only a wee bit more than 7 weeks til Powerland. 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment
yenpit Posted April 20, 2021 Report Share Posted April 20, 2021 You gonna run a wiper motor.................I see it's not installed? I have done a couple of the Integra swaps, only slight issue has been the wipers park a little higher on the glass. Stu Spencer on Facebook (maybe on here?) did some more mods & I think he figured out how to get them to park properly! Looking GREAT! TJ Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted April 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2021 I have a stock motor that works just fine so I will use it until it goes kaput - then I have another motor of unknown status that is on a shelf as a possible spare. I need to get the cowl area painted before I put it all together. I have seen the posts about intermittent wiper motors and setting them up - that will have to wait since I still have so much to do to get the car drivable. Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted April 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 Working on being ready for Powerland so I dropped the spare down to check it - found out it is 155R12. Is this weird or normal for the 510 wagons? It's an old tire so I need to buy a new one regardless of size - if I go with the 13", then I need to buy a wheel too. Anyone know of cheap stock steel wheels? Quote Link to comment
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