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DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap


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Another night of local 1/8 mile drag racing in Datsaniti. This time I drove it the 70 mile round trip to the track and back, which I find much more pleasant with ear plugs. No issues the entire night! Cleaning the accelerator pedal sensor seems to have done the trick and I could do full throttle pass after pass. I beat a stock Challenger SRT8, Chevy SS sedan, and some mean sounding 90s Mustang. I lost narrowly to a different Mustang and a tuned up STi that "puts 450 to the wheel". I was on my 3yo BFG Rivals which actually did alright.

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Can your fender flares do this?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Car show Saturday, autocross Sunday. I'll update later with an autocross re-cap. I made a subtle livery change the other night. Just need real numbers now.

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The typical car show crowd (baby boomers with numbers-matching restorations) was mostly pretty confused by it, but there were a few that really appreciated what it is the longer they looked at it.

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Tires are mounted on Jeep wheels #5 and #6. I still have 3 more of these identical Jeep wheels in the stash. I'm planning to hit the real drag strip this Friday. I'm also going to test out nitrous if I finish it in time. Big ol' bucket list item for me ever since growing up playing racing games like Need For Speed. I just want to hit a button and watch the world get all zoomy and wooshy around me.

 

I'm building a single fogger wet shot system. That means both fuel and nitrous are sprayed and mixed at one point into the intake, in my case after the MAF but before the throttle body. The ECM should still act as if everything is normal, because the air metered by the MAF isn't changing. A/F ratio and shot "size" are controlled by fuel pressure, bottle pressure, and jet orifice size, housed inside the nozzle, which meter and mix the nitrous and fuel together. Bigger jet means more flow. General rule is to air on the side of rich, between 12 and 13 AFR. I'm using this old 350z forum thread as a starting point for jet sizes. I'm aiming for 50 hp and working my way up to possibly maybe 100hp by Challenge time. Any higher and they say you really should pull a few degrees of timing. I don't have that option but I'm willing to throw those dice at the Challenge. 

 

First up is mounting the nozzle. Drilled a hole in my home depot intake tube. I had to buy an 1/8" NPT pass-through fitting which clamps down on the intake tube and allows the nozzle to thread into it. 

 

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I put a tee in the fuel line to feed the fuel solenoid and using 1/4" brake line to plumb it over. 

 

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I disassembled, cleaned, and tested these very-used solenoids I found on FB marketplace. The last thing you want is the nitrous solenoid to stick open. Here's my solenoid test bench. They both work. 1000 PSI is pretty scary when it sprays all over your workbench. 


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More NAWZ install progress. 

 

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How many hose clamps in your fuel system is too many hose clamps in your fuel system? No leaks after tightening everything down and the engine still runs like normal. 

 

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Freshly painted bottle maybe goes here. The hose I have in budget isn't long enough to put it behind the seat and I probably won't have a passenger anytime I spray. Plus I like having access to the valve in case things go poorly. That floor needs a coat while I'm at it.

 

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You might be thinking of the battery. If it's in the passenger area, it needs a pressure burst disc inside the valve that vents to outside the car through a blowdown tube. My blowdown tube will just dump through the floor. Or at least that's how I read the rules. I will know Friday when I get teched.

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So I am pulling a 3.5 at the moment and have a question. 
 

Fuel goes in at the regulator there? Just making sure cutting that hose isn't an issue, seems to run all the way to the tank with no clamps. The other line was easy to disconnect. 

I am assuming you plumbed that return line directly to the inlet to eliminate the stock 3.5 return? 

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1 hour ago, ]2eDeYe said:

 

So I am pulling a 3.5 at the moment and have a question. 
 

Fuel goes in at the regulator there? Just making sure cutting that hose isn't an issue, seems to run all the way to the tank with no clamps. The other line was easy to disconnect. 

I am assuming you plumbed that return line directly to the inlet to eliminate the stock 3.5 return? 

 

Actually the system is returnless - just one line from tank to engine. The "other line" nearby is just vacuum which goes to the EVAP canister which mounts near the tank. For the fuel line, there is a quick-disconnect fitting lower down near the PS pump if you're not ready to cut yet. The thing that looks like a regulator on the engine is actually just some kind of pressure damper device. It has a standard 5/16 (8mm) barb, which I clamped my hose to in place of the original clamp-less fuel line. The unit in the tank contains the fuel pump, filter, and pressure regulator.

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