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Maschinenbau

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About Maschinenbau

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  • Location
    Atlanta
  • Cars
    El Camino, Model A hot rod, Datsun 210 wagon

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  1. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Last night a buddy came over and we pruned the harness. We cut almost 7 lbs of wires and connectors out, periodically starting the car to make sure it still worked after each big snip. Only messed up once, when I accidentally cut power to the gauge illumination. I even found the fuel pump relay wire, controlled by the ECM, so I don't have to build a separate circuit and switch for it. There's still more to go, and it still needs to be mounted properly under the dash, but it's already a lot cleaner and less intimidating.
  2. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    One thing is still true. All I did to mess up was unlplug and re-plug in the entire harness. Automotive harnesses are nice in that sense, because every connector is unique and keyed to its plug. You can't mix and match connectors. What I found out tonight is that is mostly true for Nissan. I managed to find the only two identically-shaped plugs in the entire harness and mix them up. To Nissan's fault, they managed to put the only two identically-shaped plugs RIGHT FRIGGIN NEXT TO EACH OTHER. I mean, come on. Proof of the runnin's My first good clue was found by checking fuses on the block inside the car. I noticed a few were blown. One for A/C, okay whatever. One for the cig lighter, that's fine. The interesting one came from the ignition switch according to a wire diagram. I don't know what it powered, but I knew it had to be important, mainly because I was getting desperate and I needed it to be important. So I found a pinout diagram of the plug it comes out of and inspected that plug. I noticed it did not have a sky blue wire coming out of pin number 2C. In fact, the plug didn't have ANY wire coming out of that pin. That's when I noticed all the sky blue wires coming out of a similarly-shaped plug next to it, in the BCM. I pulled them both out, stared at them side-by-side for a bit, as my complexion and outlook on life changed suddenly for the better. I swapped them, replaced the fuse, and now the cluster was fully illuminated again! Just like it was on Saturday when it ran! Plugged in the fuel pump, keyed on, and all of the vrooms tore into the silence of my neighborhood. Still throwing all the codes and won't rev past 2400 RPM. Oh that's right, MAF still unplugged After that last little issue, I let it fully warm up while topping off the coolant, and gave it a good rev to confirm the MAF issue fixed it. Now it's only throwing a few codes related to some crap I don't need. Game on, GRM Challenge. Also, here's a fuel tank. It's in the car now, and the filler hose is a little different, but no leaks so far!
  3. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    I've heard you can tune it out, but with this budget build I don't have a few hundred bucks and a few weeks to get it done. GRM $2018 Challenge is in 3 weeks...
  4. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Because it ran on Saturday, I am thinking it's not the key transponder. The only thing that has changed since then is I have unplugged the entire harness and plugged it back in. Time to break out the electrical contact cleaner and go to town on every plug? Also does anyone know if the outside cases of the modules like BCM and ECM, the part that bolts to the chassis, need to be grounded?
  5. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Okay got an update. I laid out the entire harness on the front bumper so I could see everything and grounded the grounds it to freshly brushed bolt holes (the ones that mount the grill). Also cleaned up some loose ends, frayed wires, etc. The lighting seems stronger, lots of relays clicking and stuff. Cranks all day, still no fire. But now my code reader works: P1612 Chain of ECM-IMMU - ??? P1644 Fuel Level Sensor - sender not hooked up P1564 ASCD Steering Switch - basically cruise control not plugged in (long gone with the G35 wheel) P1610 Lock Mode U1001 Invalid or Missing Data for Primary ID P0183 Fuel Temp Sensor Circuit High Input - probably sender not hooked up Seems like my big hurdle here is Lock Mode, which is preventing the ECM from doing anything. I'm still researching, but I really hope I didn't kill my ECM. I'm really open to input here.
  6. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    I tried last night to fire it up again after re-installing the harnesses in a logical, tucked away manner. I am getting it to crank over strongly, but the cluster background does not light up. Cluster indicator lamps do light up, but flicker a bit and completely dim when cranking. Last time when the engine fired up, the cluster was completely lit, background and all, so something is different now. I also cannot connect to OBD port with my code reader. I theorize I must have a bad ground or missing connection somewhere. I think will check relays when keying on, to make sure ignition and ECM are actually turning on.
  7. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Yeah so it turns out my MAF wasn't even plugged in! Too many beers by that point I figure... But I've already taken the harness out again so I can better mount it under the dash instead in a haphazard pile. Also mounting the tank properly this time instead of on the ground next to that pile of open circuits. Fingers crossed it was just the MAF. Until next time...
  8. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Today I had a lot of help from family and friends. Much has happened since last time, including the gas tank is done and painted, the fuel filler neck is like 70% figured out, the shifter linkage was found to be not-worky and was re-fixed again, coolant expansion tank mounted and coolant filled up, brakes bled, and wiring was all plugged in. We couldn't figure out which wire powered the fuel pump, so we just grabbed a constant-hot wire from the cut end of the harness and wire-nutted it on, and turned the fuel pump on by ground against the door sill. The struggle came when we could power the starter, but nothing else. Then I found more random plugs and places for those plugs, so I plugged those plugs into their places. Keyed on one last time and the cluster illuminated. Oh that's new. Hell yes. Let's do this. DATSANITI FIRST FIRE Today's goal was to fire the engine and sure damn enough we did it! DATSANITI LIVES!! Before the ECM could think too hard, I got it rev up a bit, then limp mode kicked in hard and wouldn't go past 2,400 RPM. Then ADVANCED LIMP MODE activated and it wouldn't do better than idle. Probably has something to do with the interior being a giant pile of wires, with like 3 places where it was cut, and at least 1 section where the new resident rat has gnawed a plug halfway off. Or I junked up the MAF when building my Home Depot intake. Or because the O2 sensors are like 2 inches from the header outlet. Or all of the above. Don't know, didn't plug in a code reader like I should have, but that cluster was lit the hell up. I'm just so excited and can't wait to sort out this hot loud mess.
  9. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    I finally got around to that custom gas tank, one of the biggest remaining hurdles. It's made from a 4'x4' piece of 20 gauge steel I brought with me during the move. 24 lbs bought at 0.75/lb. I unfolded my CAD model and traced out the pattern. Bend the edges using various pieces of lumber and angle iron Rolled some beads into it while it was still flat enough. Love my little vise-mounted bead roller! You can see the CAD model on the left, sitting on Rice Rod's engine Before I got too far, I cut out and bead rolled some baffles. They only need a few short welds each. They also help with bending the tank walls by hand. I got the final shape by cinching down the whole tank using some ratchet straps and tack welding every few inches. Luckily it's a trapezoidal shape, so it was never meant to have square edges, and you won't really see this thing anyway. Just a Challenge car with a custom gas tank right? After the final shape was tacked together, I tried to TIG weld the lap joints but that went like shit, blowing through everything and kept dipping the 'trode like an idiot, so I resorted to a sort of "pulse MIG" technique. Like welding sheetmetal on a body, but instead of waiting for the bead to cool, you trigger again while it's still red hot for good fusion. Leak check revealed I only had one leak on tank body. Here's my shitty TIG skills. I don't know what's wrong with me, or if I'm just not used to thin-walled steel, or it's the sheetmetal coating. Many of you have seen my past work in other threads and this is definitely not up to par. But it holds water and I have 32 days to go so fuck it. Here is after I switched to "pulse MIG". MUCH better looking, and a quicker job too. Luckily I gave up on TIG quickly so most of the tank looks decent. With the main body of the tank leak-free, I did a fit check. Back when I was fitting the IRS, I cut out the spare tire well, which is under this nifty folding panel that makes up the cargo floor. So I had acres of space for this tank. Crappy night pics from below. You can't really see the tank from outside. The next morning I went at the cargo area with some Simple Green, a toilet scrubber, and a garden hose. WOW, not so bad after all! Back to the tank, cut an access hole for the pump/sender module. I built this flange out of 1/8", but didn't have enough scrap to make the entire thing in one piece. Ground flush, trace hole pattern, drill some holes, and pound some bolts through. After TIG'ing the heads of the bolts to the flange, I wrapped a sleeve around it. This flange will sit recessed into the tank so the pump pickup can reach the tank floor. Did a separate leak-check on this piece, because once it's inside the tank, there's not fixing it later. And now it all comes together. That's the Infiniti G35 pump/sender module harvested from the donor, which makes it basically free in the budget. All this work to use free parts. The pump pigtail (which I also kept) is the only real wiring I need to do, because I cut the rearward half of the body harness out due to laziness. Everything else should be plug-and-play (fingers crossed). By the way, this is my entire work space for this car.
  10. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Got all my brake and fuel lines finished! The ABS module is just supported by the lines for now. The rear 3/16" copper-nickel brake lines go down the driver side parallel, while the single 5/16 polymer-coated steel fuel line goes down the passenger side. Brake lines are free in the budget, but fuel line is not. I found this stuff along with the cushion clamps on Amazon pretty darn cheap. The copper stuff is really easy to bend. The fuel line not so much. I left extra fuel line in the general region of the hypothetical gas tank I keep talking about. I also go the open diff removed and the LSD is waiting on my feeble engineer arms to wrangle it into place.
  11. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Put a bunch of holes in the bottom of my car. I had to make some brake hose brackets that weld to the Datsun. The folded edge next to the hole aligns with a flat on the brake hose to keep it from rotating. Bends were make by clamping it up in the vise and beating the edge over with a hammer. I also got 3 out of 4 brake lines run. I'll take a picture of the line clamps under the car once the RR and fuel line is run. Jumping around a bit I also got the shifter linkage shortened and the shifter installed. Another cardboard template so I know how much hole to cut out. Had to cut almost a foot out of the linkage shaft. Also had to bend a few things around to clear the trans and tunnel. The entire shifter assembly from the G35 mounts up with just a few large sheetmetal screws. I also tried to mount the center console to get some cup holders, but it doesn't quite fit between the seats. I might build my own console out of sheetmetal later on, but for now this is functional and plugs in to the G35 harness, so tiptronic is a go!
  12. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Got the brake lines figured out thanks to another forum member. MC1 on the ABS pump refers to the "primary line" on the master cylinder, which is the one closest to the firewall. For short lines with many bends like this, I find it helps to make it out of copper wire first. I also got the FL line run to its hose. Everything else requires more weld nuts for line clamps. If you don't have this Eastwood line bending tool or one similar to it, you should.
  13. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    So uh...does anyone know off the top of their head which outlets on the brake master cylinder match up with which ports on the ABS pump? I have labels for "MC1" and "MC2" but my master cylinder has no labels and I can't find a diagram that shows this distinction. Basically does MC1 line go to the MC port closest or furthest from firewall? Generic picture of my ABS unit:
  14. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    This is my home depot intake. It's thin-walled 3" PVC from the trash can of a home depot. I used the throttle body elbow and MAF sensor elbow from the G35. The hose going to the air filter is actually a plumbing coupler. They are $4 and convenient versus $10+ on the internet. The air filter has a 3" opening and is an actual real OEM application for a '89 Honda Prelude Si, meaning I can buy a new replacement at any parts store. This one happens to be Denso 143-2041 and thought it would be black, but they shipped a red one I guess. It was $15. This entire intake was less than $20 because I was able to adapt so many OEM parts. This is the part I needed to replace. It was too short, leaving the air filter in a weird place. It also has a very deep silencer cavity that takes up extra room. To keep the PCV system, I had to add a hose port to my new tube. Instead of buying a fitting, I just cut this one out of the stock intake and JB welded it to my pipe. It's a PVC PCV system. Painted in flat black, it almost looks like an OEM or decent aftermarket part.
  15. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    So maybe try to mount all that inside above the passenger footwell? That might make room for the battery where I was planning to put IPDM.
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