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Maschinenbau

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Maschinenbau last won the day on August 13

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About Maschinenbau

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Atlanta
  • Cars
    El Camino, Model A hot rod, Datsun 210 wagon

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  1. It gon' be lit. I'm already prepping my body for the second-hand vape poisoning.
  2. If anyone wants to see this junker in person, I'll be at #Gridlife this weekend at Road Atlanta. Datsaniti got accepted into the Showcase (LOL) and will probably be the cheapest car in the whole show. And I'm making a whole weekend out of it. First hitting the Atlanta Dragway on my way up there Friday night, armed with a much bigger shot and a not-as-faulty pedal sensor. Then the Gridlife Auto-X Saturday morning, following by the Showcase that afternoon. No trailer, just a shitty wagon full of tires and tools. Fingers crossed no breakdowns!
  3. Yes, I'd argue it's vented through the floor to outside the wagon. I could probably run a slit hose around the base to seal it better.
  4. Last time I went drag racing, tech inspection didn't like my filing cabinet drawer battery box. It wasn't sealed enough since I only tacked the seams together. This tub of kitty litter and a strap oughta do the trick. I also bevel cut the hater pipe
  5. Here's some more autocross pictures from Sunday
  6. Mild update. Went to Caffeine and Octane two weekends ago. Datsaniti got a LOT of attention! Dad doesn't quite get it, but was surprised by how many people recognized the engine and appreciated what was done. This whole I've still been unsatisfied with the brake pedal feel. I have also never been able to fully bleed the LR caliper because the bleeder screw broke off forever ago, so I've just been loosening the hose connection. Turns out that caliper has also been sticking. I noticed it last time I went drag racing. Brake smell and a HOT hub means I was dragging a brake each run. I'm guessing the burnout got the caliper hot and it seized while pulling up to the line. Luckily it loosened up on the highway. So I went ahead and replaced both calipers and pads. Also the parking brake was in standard Midwestern shape, rusted to oblivion and missing half the friction surfaces, so I cleaned that up and put new shoes in. Everything feels so much better and more confident. This past weekend I went autocrossing. The car felt amazing and I drove pretty well! 30th out of 146 overall. Nowhere near FTD, but right up there with some very quick cars. Check out this E-Mod Jeep! And I finally got around to de-sketchifying the nitrous fuel tap situation, now with minimal hose connections. This is actually cheaper than the original solution, and now NHRA legal. Oh and the accelerator pedal sensor issue popped up again on the highway once. I can't risk this happening during a drag run so I put a different junkyard unit in.
  7. Well I might have found something here. Take a look at my pedal stop. I put this in back when I was having the Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor issue. I thought maybe I was over-flexing the pedal when going WOT, causing the sensor to short/open and put the car in limp mode. I also doused the thing in contact cleaner, since the sensor getting dirty/dusty from bodywork and paint was the more likely problem. Maybe it's limiting the total sensor range, possibly keeping the ECM out of WOT? Let's find out for sure. The APP has potentiometers inside, which are basically resistors that change based on movement. The ECM reads this in as pedal position and does stuff to the engine accordingly. Sensor 1: Idle position: 2.83 kOhm "Floored": 0.41 kOhm, 0.35 if you push really hard Actual WOT: 0.13 kOhm Sensor 2: Idle position: 0.28 kOhm "Floored": 2.71 kOhm. 2.76 if you push really hard Actual WOT: 2.91 kOhm I don't know what exact TPS% this all translates too, but looks like I never went WOT at the drag strip, or at the most recent autocross. D'oh! This is potentially very important because this car, like many other modern EFI cars, goes into an open-loop "power enrichment" mode at WOT. How much power difference can that make? I guess I won't know until the next time I go drag racing, but I adjusted the pedal so I get the full sensor travel and my hopes are definitely back up.
  8. I think it's a chamber muffler, but no markings so I have no idea what's inside. I'm going to check pedal potentiometer range on and off car to see if my pedal stop is holding it up. If it never goes fully WOT, then it may have never gone into power enrichment / open loop mode and left power on the table. How embarrassing would that be lol.
  9. Exhaust is stock manifolds to dual 2", Y-pipe into 2.5" through some no-name muffler. Possible leaks in the flexpipes from scraping (lowlife lol) but that's well downstream of the O2 sensors. MAF and housing is stock, but the tube between MAF and throttle elbow is straight 3" PVC. Any advice on the vacuum leak check? Follow the smoke? I don't think this intake has ever been off. Something stupid I realized yesterday may be the throttle pedal-stop keeping it from 100% WOT. I put the pedal-stop in to keep me from over-extending the pedal sensor after all the issues I had with the sensor (which now I think were just cleanliness related - dousing in contact cleaner seemed to fix it?). I'm going to borrow an OBD reader to verify if I'm even getting 100% WOT. If you're curious about calculating WHP from my times/speeds, weight should be 2550 +-50 with me in it. I have been keeping a weight budget of EVERYTHING that goes in or out since last year when it was corner weighed.
  10. So true. There's always a lot of "bench racing" online but reality has too many variables to account for. Possibly overrated power of the VQ35DE (especially early sedan versions like mine), worn internals at over 150,000 miles, not stalling high enough at the tree, car could weigh more than expected, hot humid weather, maybe dragging a rear brake after the burnout? wheel, hub, and rotor were hot AF after each run, but cool on the drive home. You just never know. But I'm not here to make excuses. I'm here to go as fast as possible for under $2,000, have fun doing it, and share the experience and knowledge with you all as I go.
  11. Summary of the night: Nitrous. Is. AWESOME. Loaded up for the big road trip to the Atlanta Dragway. It took over 2 hours to go 75 miles thanks to Friday afternoon Atlanta traffic. This car sucks to drive in traffic. No A/C, not even a fan, no floor insulation, feet are hot, everything is hot, seat too stiff, loud raspy exhaust (ear plugs the whole way), fingers crossed that pot hole doesn't hit the oil pan, and a constant high-stress state of "what's THAT new sound??" But it did it. Coming back home around midnight was a much nicer drive, maybe even enjoyable. Tech was pretty lax. Actually too relaxed, honestly. I was hoping to come home with a list of things I should do. They didn't even look under the hood at the sketchy fuel tee situation. They only had quibbles over the battery box, which I really should replace with a plastic sealed container instead of my crappy filing cabinet drawer. I'll fix the fuel situation anyway and read the NHRA rulebook again. Forgot about an incident on the drive up. Right as I was getting off the interstate, the hood suddenly started "floating" up a couple inches. Uh oh. Part of the hood latch piece was expoxied back on after the hood gutting, and I guess that bond broke. The other half of the latch was welded from the factory, so it probably wouldn't have detached, but it's not a good look. Luckily another racer had a rivet kit. I'm honestly a little disappointed in the times. I was hoping for 13's all motor. According to some calculators, the motor is down compared to the advertised 260hp crank. For these ET's, MPH, and weight, that's roughly 175hp at the wheel and I'm not sure how much better I can get the 60' since the tires are hooking pretty well. Try to stall higher? Spray down low and cross my fingers? ...But a pig-rich 35?40? shot really cut that time down! I have bigger jets I'm itching to try, but I knew this would be a safe first-time spray. My goal from the start of this build has been 11's, but I'm not as optimistic after last night. Still, that was a ton of fun and I'm overall happy with how the car did tonight both on and off the track. Fastest run crappy dashboard view
  12. I'll put a big Z1 sticker on my car, if that helps. Though you probably don't want your name on such a junker LOL
  13. Try to get the entire wire harness and all computers from roughly front seats forward. Especially the ignition tumbler/antennae and key because it's all paired to the ECM for anti-theft. You can get the ECM flashed (ahem Z1 ahem) to get rid of the antitheft, but better to have it all and not use it. Gauge cluster I think also needs to be connected to CAN. Basically open a G35 FSM and grab everything connected to the CAN network or it may not start. You can splice in the rest for the fuel system.
  14. Sketchy $200 nitrous kit is installed and working. I'm going to the big boy drag strip tonight, which will be Datsaniti's furthest drive to date at 150 miles round trip. Coming home with either time slips, a list of ways to not fail tech, or a towing bill. One of the first two, preferably. Feels good working with metal again.
  15. I would love to be able to accept it, but the $2000 Challenge budget rules forbid gifts and other "free" parts. After the Challenge though, I will definitely be buying one if I continue to race and spray this car. I think it has 11s in it.
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