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Maschinenbau

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About Maschinenbau

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Atlanta
  • Cars
    El Camino, Model A hot rod, Datsun 210 wagon

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  1. After bleeding and tightening all the leaks I asked wife if she wanted to go for a ride, since she's never actually been in this car. "Aren't you testing the brakes out?" "Yeah but it always had bad brakes" "...mmmm maybe next time" This. Was. 1000% definitely worth the effort! Pedal feels fantastic and I feel way more confident ripping around the hood. I did a big smokey uphill burnout past the house in celebration. Wife still unamused.
  2. So what you're saying is that giant gaping hole where I cut out the spare tire well probably isn't doing me any favors lol
  3. At first I tried integrating the Infiniti ABS block with attached module, but I couldn't get the system to bleed down properly. So I removed the ABS block and replaced it with tee fittings and a bias adjustment valve. I am using the Infiniti cluster and gauges, so I also still have the ABS computer and wheel speed sensors. I detached the ABS module from the big heavy junction block and just bolted it behind the dashboard, exposed solenoids and all, plugged into the harness. This was enough to keep a working speedometer. If your Miata system is anything like the Infiniti one, the ABS computer collects info from the wheel speed sensors, looks for the ABS module/block to be present, and sends speed info over CAN to the gauge cluster. I wasn't able to get speedometer working without this ABS module and all 4 wheel speed sensors present in the system. Hope this helps. The black ABS module is bolted behind the dash using those 4 silver screws to the left of the cluster.
  4. Sounds like a darn good excuse for a rally-style roof scoop! Makes sense about the low-pressure zone though. I don't even have a blower motor on this car, so the only positive pressure I can build in the interior will be from scoops or some kind of cabin intake system. Perhaps a pop-up vent on the cowl with a purpose-built duct that avoids all the Infiniti computers I am trying to protect. Exhaust turn-down might help too, but I'm in love that silly pipe. Back to the brakes...something about Miatas and answers? While perusing the junkyard for a replacement G35 booster, I found a non-ABS NA Miata with almost nothing left, except its brake system. The booster is single-diaphragm and 2" smaller in diameter, so it should be a good boost but not too boosty. Cleaned up the booster with a fresh coat of paint, thenI flipped the proportioning valve bracket upside down to move the valve over to the right. A little trimming and bending made it perfect. My hope is that the Miata prop valve does a good enough job that I can remove the manual bias valve if I need an extra $20 in the budget later. But for now they're both in, because burnouts. It needs to go here. But the nose of the MC hits the strut tower, no surprise there. Here's the upper control arm mount and spring perch I surgically avoided. Much hammering was had. Much more cutting and grinding after this shot too. Getting close Why does everything I do to this car devolve into CAD fab? Burned in good to add the stiffness back. Finally found another source for my coveted Rustoleum Harbor Blue spray paint. I can't find this stuff anywhere, but it's almost a perfect match to the Datsun interior. I had to run a vacuum line from the passenger side to the booster, so I formed it out of some leftover fuel line. I won't know how it works until tomorrow, when my power bleeder adapter arrives. But mashing the pedal doesn't reveal any leaks, and the running-engine vacuum test proves the booster is good. This has been a 20 hour upgrade. My thought is easier to drive = faster to drive. At previous autocrosses, braking was an all-or-nothing affair due to the massive pedal effort involved.
  5. I've looked into hydroboost and remote booster setups like on a BMW E34. But last night I did some measuring and I might be able to squeeze it if I angle the MC upward to clear the strut tower. It's supposed to angle up anyway, just need to figure out how to do that.
  6. Lots of little updates this week. I just got back from the monthly Caffeine and Octane show, which was 50 miles round trip all on urban interstates heading out before dawn. The show was crazy huge with a great variety as always. The car got tons of attention so I did my best to spread the good word of GRM and our annual pilgrimage to the Challenge. As everyone started leaving, I started my car because someone wanted to hear the engine. I revved it up juuuuust a bit and inadvertently triggered a revving war between the 350Z's I parked with (what else is similar?) and the Mustang gang that was rolling past us. I was stuck in the middle. The Z behind me REALLY overdid it and got a ticket from a cop. C&O is wild. No big issues on the drive, but the roads were still wet this morning so the spray made it hard to see without wipers on the dirtiest most pitted windshield ever. Headlights could use an adjustment too, but thankful for lots of streetlights going through downtown. The way back was much easier, though more traffic. I really want a brake booster but can't fit one. I noticed the whole chassis seems to resonant right around 3000 RPM at 70 something MPH. Also I am smelling a lot of exhaust inside the car and can't figure out how it's getting in. All the doors seal like crap, so who knows, but it's a little nauseating even with the windows down. Anyway here's what happened since last time. Fenders are DONE with the welder. Nice little lip from a piece of 1/8 round rod and some stiffening supports. Roof patch Here's a neat trick I learned from Urchfab on youtube. When welding large flat sheetmetal that looks very sensitive to warping, blow compressed air after every few tacks to keep the heat down. I keep everything cool enough to touch and that seemed to work. I am fully committed to no wipers and no HVAC, so I sealed up the cowl opening. Water has been getting into weird places, along with smells from the engine bay. Some patches made from aluminum rain gutter, seam sealer, and rivets made a quick job compared to welding. Replaced the brake master cylinder which made the pedal definitely feel better, but I still wish I had power brakes on the street. Also that wiper motor and wiper assembly are gone. 5 more pounds removed. Here's my super lame exhaust the 'meh'-looking tip and the after-thought mounting hastily welded onto the rear fascia. And here is the new and improved hater-pipe inspired God of All Rice mode exhaust. Still sounds the same, but looks way more awesomer. I might bevel the tip, or not. I love it.
  7. Last weekend was entirely devoted to minivan deferred maintenance, so no Datsaniti fun was had. This weekend I got the air dam roadworthy and tested it out. Metal hooks attach to the radiator support bracket. Hot glue works well for holding it together. The whole bumper/air dam assembly comes off with just 4 self-tapping screws. Every other fastening feature is passive capture. You can push on it pretty hard without it caving in or deflecting. Should be stiff enough for 100+ (120+...?) mph of aero force. Went for a drive and didn't notice any floppiness. A cop pulled up next to me at a stoplight and said "Cool, but it needs an LS swap." "It's plenty fast". I don't think he knew what was under the hood. Cool cop though, and didn't seem to mind the overall level of jank I put on the road. The next morning I took it to a car show and drove on the interstate for the first time, getting up to 80 MPH with ease. It's loud, it drones, and random components hit their resonance and vibrate all at different speeds, but it drove smooth and predictable. Not saying it's daily-driver status, but maybe I don't have to tow it to autocross anymore. 25 urban miles round trip on a hot day. I took surface streets on the way back to avoid that Atlanta traffic, but it rides so better on that smooth interstate pavement. Bumps, ruts, and potholes are terrifyingly loud in this car. Kids at the show loved drawing on it with the chalk I brought.
  8. Great tips guys. Here's where we left off last time, with the eye sockets finished. Here is some broken rain gutter I have been hoarding for months. It's a bit...boxy I cut some curve into it, riveted it back together, and cut tabs into the bumper. I also cut some slots into the valence/under-grill metal piece, so it goes together really easily. Should all blend in together nicely. Also I have this piece that went under the original bumper, but not sure it has a place here. It's pretty mangled on the corner where this car was wrecked. But maybe it could work
  9. Here are the turn signal "eye sockets" I burned in last night.
  10. Got the fenders all welded up This thicker stuff didn't warp as much as the rears. Also I suck less this time. I left extra material along the bottom and still need to form the transition to the rockers a little better. But that leaves us at the front fascia. All I have from the Datsun is the heavy ugly 80s chrome bumper, so I'm basically starting from scratch. This is a racecar, so a decent air dam and undertray may help in the drags. I don't want a splitter or front spoiler (or at least not a crazy big one) because I would rather reduce drag than improve front downforce, and anything strong enough to support downforce will likely be heavier and more complicated than a simple air dam. So to recap, goals for front are: Cheap/free Reduce drag Downforce neutral Aesthetic Removable for towing Over the past few months I have been gathering inspiration from everything from land speed racers to eco-modders. The eco-modders have extensively documented very cheap, very DIY-friendly ways to reduce drag. Just google image search "ecomodders aero" and take a dive down that rabbit hole. One of their preferred materials is coroplast, a lightweight yet stiff corrugated sheet of polypropylene. The same stuff all those election yard signs are made from. You can get this stuff for free after any election or by walking along the ditch of a nearby highway and gathering all the tipped-over or blown-away ads. AND benefit your community and the environment by upcycling this material. Polypropylene unfortunately is not very recyclable, so the majority of it ends up in landfills. Unless, of course, it ends up on a car... It forms decently too. And the little metal rods can be modified to stake several sheets together and add stiffness. I enjoyed the irony of a "Cash for Junk Cars" sign in my garage, and the appropriate shamrock for this weekend. I could really use some feedback on design. Nothing is set in stone (or hot glue) yet. How do we feel about the shape? Stay flat or bulge out forward more? Angle of attack? Does it need a small bumper-like feature? Am I going insane for screwing yard signs to my racecar?
  11. Cardboard fenders for lightness! No not really Update on the filing cabinet graveyard. These fenders hit them hard. I left extra along the bottoms until I figure out the air dam and rocker transition Due to the max panel size of the cabinets, each fender is actually 6 pieces stitched together very carefully. I got one side fully welded up tonight, long after taking these pictures. I also wrapped the steering wheel with some cycling handlebar tape. 9 bucks shipped and one pack is just enough for a Datsun steering wheel. I think it feels and looks much better.
  12. Thanks! And yeah $40 for a set of 15x8 is hard to beat! That's half junkyard pricing. They are the cheapest OEM 15x8 wheels with a 5x4.5(114.3) lug pattern that I can find, and I keep on finding them too, because Jeep guys love to upgrade wheels and tires. So I have an entire second set that I'll be drag racing on. I have 8 Jeep wheels in my garage for under $100 and I've never even driven a Jeep.
  13. Just finally caught all the way up on this thread. That racing league looks like a blast! I always wished there was something budget-friendly between 24 hrs of Lemons and typical track days, and they seem to have filled that niche. Sorry about the L20 failure, but thank you for all the carnage pics. Looks to me like a normal case of rod bearing oil starvation. All it takes is a little bit, especially at high RPM, and that bearing gets hot enough to seize the rod on the crank and it goes full weed-wacker. Even with a good baffled pan like the one yall made, if the oil can't make its way back down, no bueno. That SR should give you plenty of trouble-free racing miles. Good luck out there and keep it coming.
  14. More photos (pardon the fender progress). Atlanta Region SCCA has a really great photography. Once the body and paint and done I'll have to buy some prints from him.
  15. Autocross Points #2 was yesterday, and I did much, much better this time relative to the field. I finished 30th out of 90+, with a 3 second spread between 5th and 30th. All cars ahead were fairly-modified STX, STU, SM, and SP classes of cars. For perspective, the car ahead of me was a crazy turbo-flutterin' STU Subaru STi and behind me was a gorgeous SP 2011 911 Carrera S. I'm pretty satisfied. Biggest takeaways: Seat and position are game changers. I can actually focus on driving now instead of leaning way back and hitting my helmet on the ceiling. Solid shock bushings are doing something incredible. My driver/autocross vocabulary is lacking, but the car just feels so much more predictable and quicker to transition between turns, especially in a slalom. The rear dampers must actually be working now and keeping it from rolling as much, because the control arms didn't clunk on the frame like last time. Night and day difference that you can feel just by leaning down on hatchback. It stiffff. Stock drivetrain still reliable as gravity and still throwing the same 7 minor engine codes.
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