willz Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Hey willz... that's great.... ya I wasn't thinking about turning any screw just getting info... so many posts and arguments and no real info given.... until golde-boy gets his hands dirty or gets a tuner involved he will never get it right. Info is the missing link here... he needs to pull numbers for jets etc. so we know what hes working with 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Make sure that seal is there and intact, or as he stated, you will have problems... Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Emulsion F2 Air corrector 175 Main jet 130 Pump jet 50 Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 The seal looks good 1 Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Koheartsgpa- the seal on the pump jet looks good 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Can you see gas squirting inside the barrels when you pull on the throttle? If so, this means you'll have to order a set of jets with a wide assortment in sizes...They're not cheap but you'll have to find the proper jetting if you can't take it to a pro tuner, if you at least were able to read the symptoms and spark plugs then it would be less costly, there's nothing else you can do except play with jetting at this point, and to be honest, you need to know what to do, read the symptoms, its hard to explain, i grew up involved in all this shit. I ordered these back when I was tuning mine, but I knew that my issue was the need for bigger jetting. Unless we're missing something.... Plugs, post pic of them, please, also...what plugs are you using?, I run the NGK BP5ES...BP7ES works too but runs way better on the 5. Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Koheartsgpa- I'll remove the plugs and post pics. Spark wires not to sure which ones I have. Just know they're NGK 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Yes, serious. If you gradually open the throttle you won't need an accelerator pump. Disconnect yours and try it. Totally drivable, but if you gas it too quickly at low at RPMs it will fall on it's face. By 2,500 any accelerator pump fuel is burned off on the way up to that RPM and the air speed is enough to suck in gas. The pump is for transitioning from idle circuit to running on the primary jet. Suddenly opening the throttle causes a severe lean condition because the air can't get moving fast enough. Once the rpms increase and the air gets moving it isn't needed. The Hitachi accelerator pump one way valve has built in back leakage into the float chamber. A sudden opening of the throttle gets a full squirt but if you open the throttle slowly less gas is needed and much of the squirt has time to push back into the float chamber, saving gas. I know how an accelerator pump works, thanks. Telling somebody that you don't need it though, that's not doing justice. If a carb was designed witout one, then you don't need one. If a carb has one and it's not working properly, then yes, you need one to run well. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Emulsion F2 Air corrector 175 Main jet 130 Pump jet 50 Good. Now maybe someone here can comment on the jetting. I don't run single side draft setups so I can't weigh in on jetting. It's probably best to start with a new set of plugs at this point. Try NGK B6ES for starters. 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Good. Now maybe someone here can comment on the jetting. I don't run single side draft setups so I can't weigh in on jetting. It's probably best to start with a new set of plugs at this point. Try NGK B6ES for starters. Yeah....and I can't figure out a baseline either since I run a Mikuni 48 and the jets setup are different, I learned the Mikuni well but a bit lost with the weber, If I was there physically I can do it, but not this way, I need to be there. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 I know how an accelerator pump works, thanks. Telling somebody that you don't need it though, that's not doing justice. If a carb was designed witout one, then you don't need one. If a carb has one and it's not working properly, then yes, you need one to run well. I quite simply did not say you don't need it. I said you should be able to drive without one.... and you can quite easily. It's for suddenly opening the throttle. If he's accelerating from a stop and it starts to stumble at 2,500 that's not the accelerator pump. That has long ago squirted into the primary and is used up. You should be able to drive it without an accelerator pump. It's only for lean condition when suddenly floored. Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Main jet is too small Thats small for even duals on a 1600. Your emulsion tubes are good.. You should order redline weber jet kit 737-144 then you have a range to play. Will it pull if you wind it up high? What about when you roll into it slow and not slam your foot down? I say throw a bigger main jet and air corrector at it. Getting a kit really helps you dial it in. You may wanna order some 50 or 55 f9 idles, maybe even a set of 50f6 idles. Heres a link for ya, its more for running duals but has pure gold in it http://www.classicrallyclub.com.au/docs/Tips_tuning_Weber_carburettors_DVAndrews.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Your throat size also affects jetting, if you the the filter/stack off and undo the two screws on the barrel part of the body you can pull the aux venturi out and and main choke. Also check to make sure the aux venturi isnt loose or has rotated! This will cause all kinds of shit! I was having erratic fueling issues and one of the screws backed out and the aux venturi was turning inside the carb! Make sure its aligned properly and tight and have the locking plate or better yet lockwired! 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Yes, serious. If you gradually open the throttle you won't need an accelerator pump.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Telling somebody that you don't need it though, that's not doing justice. If a carb was designed witout one, then you don't need one. If a carb has one and it's not working properly, then yes, you need one to run well. Yes, serious. If you gradually open the throttle you won't need an accelerator pump.... Never said you don't need it. Won't need it....not don't need it. And for the reason given. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 I think your explanation is misleading to the OP who's trying to get his car to run properly. 1 Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Scooter- the article is very informative but I'm wondering if it can be applied to single sidedraft 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Good point, it is a terrific article though.....let me see if I can find one for single side draft... Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 No luck, I ran into the same charts, hell, go with it, won't hurt anything and you can work from there on, start off with scooter's jetting recomendations and see what it does, get the right plugs on there, that's important. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 check the timming first 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 I've driven the car for 2 days and have found out when I'm cruising at about 3,000 rpm and try to accelerate at quite a fast pace that it stumbles It's page 6 o'clock time to pull the plugs Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 I agree. Let's see some results. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Be honest carbs don't go bad all that often and since its a sidedraft (a rather new looking one)it should work better the faster off idle it goes. I would swap a distributor after you ck the timming and set maybe to 14degs. I had about 4 distributors go bad due to bushing wear or weights /vacuum advance locked up 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Be honest carbs don't go bad all that often and since its a sidedraft (a rather new looking one)it should work better the faster off idle it goes. I would swap a distributor after you ck the timming and set maybe to 14degs. I had about 4 distributors go bad due to bushing wear or weights /vacuum advance locked up They all need to be adjusted according to what the engine they're on require, I've seen side drafts come off one motor and onto another one with same specs and not run right, they had to be re-jetted to properly suit that motor, but he needs to check the timing and use proper plugs. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 It's page 6 o'clock time to pull the plugs Make that page 7 o'clock. Quote Link to comment
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