d.p Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 1 minute ago, Crashtd420 said: Ok says to check between rod big end and crank-throw face.... which is what I did. I think I am good. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 Just now, d.p said: which is what I did. I think I am good. If you can check .008 and you got some wiggle your good.... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 48 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: If the rods are stock, they will be fine. I have never had to side clearance stock rods, that is, if they were not damaged. They can get burrs on the from people installing rod bolts or from smacking them with a hammer to remove them. Zactly If these are the original rods back in the same position they have a prior history of fitting perfectly. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 19 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Zactly If these are the original rods back in the same position they have a prior history of fitting perfectly. Unless something went in crooked some how..... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 The bolts wouldn't tighten up. It's pretty fool proof. Different if swapping parts to make a hybrid. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 Just now, datzenmike said: The bolts wouldn't tighten up. It's pretty fool proof. Different if swapping parts to make a hybrid. He is on his 3 crank seal.... just saying... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 Just now, Crashtd420 said: He is on his 3 crank seal.... just saying... lol I am on my first. I bought three and was worried about the first one catching so I installed the felpro and the inside lip got turned. I was able to push it back with a pick but decided to just take the cap off to see what’s doing. Turns out the felpro was fine and in one piece and I could use it if I wanted. Today I reinstalled the first OEM rear main seal and now have a brand new OEM and barely used felpro in case this fucker leaks. everything is straight and tight as far as I can tell. Guess the only way I will ever know is if and when I decide to drop this fucker in. 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 Your probably just over thinking what ever it is your feeling.... you've checked your clearances so you should be fine... I thought you ruined 2 of the seal.... still your on the 3rd round of installing it.... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 Easy way to learn; take it apart put it back together rinse and repeat a couple times. Also a learning experience for me having never done this before. The last thing I would want is to put all this together for it to implode at startup so probably overly cautious but not necessarily a bad thing. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 Oh and the only reason I got the felpro in the first place was because I didn’t get side seals with the OEM one. IE fucking Riley never sent them. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 (edited) Hey I've always said if it doesnt look or feel right go back and check the last thing you did.... Your doing fine for your first time.... Mine wasnt a smooth reassembly either... Edited April 9, 2020 by Crashtd420 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 Thank your lucky chickens you guys never had to deal with a rear main rope seal, like on a roadster. 2 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 Well maybe one of us has dealt with rope seals. My Jag has rope seals and it is a roadster as well. If the cat ain't pissn oil you're out. 3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 4 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: He is on his 3 crank seal.... just saying... That's the inside seal lip that stretches over the end of the crankshaft and nothing to do with the bearing cap or even the block. Has to fit over the crank first then be driven back what 1/2" and seated. This where the tearing can happen. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 2 hours ago, mainer311 said: Thank your lucky chickens you guys never had to deal with a rear main rope seal, like on a roadster. I know of them and have seen them taking things apart. There is a top and bottom like main bearings. In fact you can replace the top main bearing by sliding the bearing shell around 180 and lifting out. The rope seal is similar to poke in and then cut them flush. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 24 minutes ago, datzenmike said: I know of them and have seen them taking things apart. There is a top and bottom like main bearings. In fact you can replace the top main bearing by sliding the bearing shell around 180 and lifting out. The rope seal is similar to poke in and then cut them flush. Right, but you can’t replace the upper one without removing the entire crank. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunrides Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 You don't *have* to remove the crank. You can drop it down a little, use a pick to pull the old one and use a tool called a "sneaky pete" to install the new upper one. Not the easiest to accomplish but it can be done. That said, my Roadster has a leaky rear main and I'm fine with it! LOL. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 d.p if this is your first engine build and that is the only problem you have, you sir have done well rebuilding this L20B. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 It is and thanks man. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 All you do is take the main bearing cap off and tap the upper shell and it will spin around the journal till it is in the bottom position and then lift out. Put the new one on and rotate it back into place. Mechanics have done this since inserts were invented. Thrust bearing too. Not this side the other, that tab prevent it turning but it will rotate towards you. I put all new mains in the LZ24 I was building this way. See that oil on the journal? That's after the engine sitting for 6-7 years in the back yard. Anyone tell you that the oil runs off is very mistaken. There would be plenty of oil for mere cranking and starting and my L20B reads 30PSI cranking. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 10 hours ago, Charlie69 said: d.p if this is your first engine build and that is the only problem you have, you sir have done well rebuilding this L20B. Seriously though. I figured he would have burned this motherfucker to the ground already. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: All you do is take the main bearing cap off and tap the upper shell and it will spin around the journal till it is in the bottom position and then lift out. I'm talking about upper rope seals, not upper bearing shells. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 They would certainly be a pain. Good thing most Datsuns don't use them. Probably the advent of an oil resistant synthetic rubber allowed circular seals. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 Still looking for a 5 speed. Would a 31” FS5W71B work? supposedly new from ATK Japan. Sellers says it’s a wide ratio. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 It will work you'll just have to shorten the drive shaft, modify the rear mount and the shifter will move back a few inches. 2 Quote Link to comment
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