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datsunrides

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About datsunrides

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/15/1969

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  • Location
    Roseburg, OR
  • Cars
    Too many :)
  • Occupation
    Steamfitter

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  1. Cool 1200. Should be a bast with the CA. Off topic but that Z looks like a 69/70 series 1 based on the pillar emblem and hatch vents.
  2. datsunrides

    My 1971 521

    You don't *have* to remove the crank. You can drop it down a little, use a pick to pull the old one and use a tool called a "sneaky pete" to install the new upper one. Not the easiest to accomplish but it can be done. That said, my Roadster has a leaky rear main and I'm fine with it! LOL.
  3. Pics are in the link above. I believe they are from the early to mid 80's. I know it was a while ago but you and Charlie saw the truck in Williams LOL
  4. LOL, that was my truck. Those wheels are 15x6 Toyota landcruiser wheels with generic spinners. IIRC tires were 205/60-15
  5. That is pretty badass. Definitely a needed part for the 521’s. Hopefully the price is reasonable.
  6. I have used the following B series engine parts on a J13 Rocker arm shaft Rocker arm stand Rocker arm bushings Lifter cover gasket Aluminum valve cover/gasket Single DCOE intake manifold Patriot brand header I also used some transmission parts/gaskets for the late 320/early 520 floor shift smooth case 4 speed
  7. datsunrides

    Plug wires??

    My 520 had a cap like the grey one. Basically was just like a regular plug wire except no boot.
  8. On the car I used a surge tank setup on, I repurposed a evap can to use as the surge tank as it had enough nipples and in good spots to perform the function. As a benefit, it fit behind the rear panel cover in the back of the wagon.
  9. Here is what I did to my 521 tank when I swapped a KA-E. I have have also done a setup with a surge tank and also used the tanks inc. module. The surge tank is probably easiest but it’s kind of messy plumbing wise. Tanks inc. setup is nice because no welding. Back when I did the 521 the Tanks inc. setup was not around or that would be the way to go.
  10. those appear to be Hoshino Impul wheels. Similar to the Work 02.
  11. I would say the pistons are standard. Not sure what the other stamping means. If it was .003 then I would say its an oversize piston for std bore as they make slightly oversize rings for when the bores need to be cleaned up with an aggressive hone (like for a small taper), but not bored. Rushn is right that sometimes it is better to just get the pistons made. It was a while ago but I had some forged JE pistons made for a U20 engine for I think $400/set. Kind of hard to justify spending that coin on a J13. When I had my 520 and needed to re-ring it, I strongly considered looking into whether it was a drop in to use a MGB 1800.
  12. As long as your satisfied with the purchase, that’s all that really matters. Not speaking to this in particular but people overpay for things they want everyday. I’ve bought things for $100 and felt ripped off and also spent 7k on a car and felt like I got a screaming deal.
  13. It looks like there may be stampings on top of the piston that indicate it’s been bored out already. It would usually have something like .030 (inches) or maybe 1.0 (mm). Couple points I can make are if it’s already been bored out, check your head gasket to see how much larger you can bore it before the head gasket won’t seal. Most motors can go .060 over before a sonic check is in order to make sure the cylinder walls are not getting too thin. If the damage to that cylinder is too much to fix with a bore job, you can always consider a liner. Finding off the shelf oversized pistons will probably take a bit of hunting, most likely via forklift part suppliers but you can always get custom pistons made, but at a cost you may find unacceptable.
  14. I don’t believe Les or Kevin do bodywork in house. Might want to go over to 311s.org and ask there as there are a ton of Roadster people in the LA area and should have recommendations.
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