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datsunrides

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About datsunrides

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/15/1969

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hollister, Ca
  • Cars
    Too many :)
  • Occupation
    Steamfitter

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  1. That does not look like a J intake, maybe an A14? I know my J intake was a solid casting with the exhaust open to the intake. There was no plate.
  2. Question, since the J13 intake and exhaust manifold are joined, how did you seal up the exhaust, or did you also use a MGB exhaust manifold?
  3. There is the Toyota Owners Restoration Club (T.O.R.C.), 3TCgarage, and 1stgencelica, but like most automotive message boards, they seems to be/are dying a slow death. Probably something on failbook.
  4. I love me some Starion. I’ve had both a flatty and a wide body and will someday find another flatty. Hell, I’ve been lugging around a scoop hood (real steel, not glass repop) for the last 15 years so I have it if/when I find the right car. IMO, there is not a great choice in swapping Mitsu engines, basically just the 4g63t, but you know they are a bit of work to convert to rwd. I would vote to LS swap it. Push rod simplicity with TONS of affordable aftermarket support. I have a 2nd gen Colt that will be getting one started soon.
  5. EGR really has nothing to do with the carb. In most older vehicles the ports are plugged with soot and they don’t work anyways. The only real problem you get is if the ports are clear and the EGR sticks open, you essentially get a vacuum leak. That is also how you can tell if they are working, if you lift the valve, or put vacuum to it, you should notice a drop in idle speed. You could keep the EGR if you keep the stock manifold and run a DGV or similar, but if you go sidedraft, pretty sure there is no such beast as a manifold with EGR ports.
  6. True story, I once tried to buy a part from him, and he refused to sell to me unless I apologized for a factual comment on a transaction I made on 311’s.org. Guy like actually had notes of the post I made either written down or on his computer that popped up when I gave him my name. When I asked him if what I said was a lie, he agreed it wasn’t, but still wanted me to pull down the post and apologize. That didn’t happen and I got the part from Rallye.
  7. I prefer to deal with almost any other vendor than Dean. Mike Young, Stan, Dann, Ross, Paul, Carl, etc are better choice, IMO of course. It’s like YOU need to thank Dean for the privilege of doing business with him.
  8. If your in Napa, CA, whatever swap you choose must have ALL the emission equipment that was required from the year of the donor. My suggestion would be a pre 95’ since those are OBDI and simpler. You could also look for something pre OBD, like say a Z22 setup from a S11. As others have said, best to just get a donor vehicle and swap all the emission system to the 620 to be legit and get a BAR tag. May be easier to just drop your 620 body on a D21 chassis.
  9. There are reproductions made for the Roadster that I think will work. Check out datsunroadster.com. Just need to check length.
  10. If you want simple efi that you can later put low boost to, take a look at the Holley Sniper TBI setup. Looks promising and much easier to have to fab an adapter plate for the stock intake rather than trying to find a rare A14 efi manifold or fabing one for a multi port setup.
  11. Prep is key. Because I have the room and equipment, I usually will sandblast, epoxy prime, and use a single stage enamel with a actual HVLP gun. However, I have had good success just getting the frame as clean as possible with scrapers, wire wheels, and degreasers. Then give it a final wash with diluted simple green or similar and let thoroughly dry. Then I use VHT epoxy rattle can directly on the frame, no primer. Seems pretty durable. As Soff has said, SEM makes good products also, but are on the pricey side for rattle can, but are way better (IMO) than typical box store rattle can.
  12. Car is worth whatever someone is willing to pay, and the owner is willing to accept.
  13. Well, it’s not super complex, but you do need to find a turbo with carbon seals for a draw thru setup. Just guessing that the best carb for a draw thru, based on what I have read and seen would be a large SU carb. Where I would think the complexity would rear its head is timing control. The oil supply and return to the turbo can be an issue, but probably not bad for someone with good fab skills. I mean if you can do the fab work for the manifolds and such, the rest is fairly straight forward. Would definitely be easier on a crossflow design.
  14. So, you are thinking of doing a turbo H20? And by the sounds of it maybe a “simple” system? A “simple” system, whether draw through or blow through with a carb is not really that simple unless you are talking really low boost pressure, which in that case it kinda doesn’t make sense vs doing something like a KA/SR swap that would have the same power level without the complexity. Now, if you want to do it just to do it, I can understand that. I have a turbo/efi U20 in my roadster. Doesn’t really make sense, but I did it because I could.
  15. You can try and send a PM to 66Fairlady. They are still active and he is one of the founders I believe.
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