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About datsunrides

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  • Birthday 05/15/1969

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  • Location
    Roseburg, OR
  • Cars
    Too many :)
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  1. At one time you could buy a thin metal sleeve that pressed on the pulley over the seal surface. Maybe they are still available. I think they were called repair sleeves or something like that.
  2. I have found that if you desire a bead for the hose to go over, the first stage of a double flare looks pretty much like OEM.
  3. For small diameter tubing, I use stainless steel tubing. Now I have the ability to weld small tubing that makes it look cleaner, but you can get compression fittings for tees and adapters. McMaster Carr has some but a place like swagelok has many more options. If you do go this route, make sure you get double ferrule fittings for stainless. You can also do this with copper tubing/brass compression fittings, (or soldered/brazed fittings) but IMO is not as durable with engine vibration.
  4. Pretty good chance that I would have kept my 520 if this was worked out when I had it.
  5. There are the stereos made for classic cars by outfits like custom autosound and retrosounds. I know the retrosounds unit should fit in just about any stock location. The unit itself is very compact and the shafts are adjustable.
  6. And if it’s a 67.5 engine, you could get a kings ransom for the head alone if it’s got no air injection ports in the head
  7. Swapping in a U20 is not that different from a L series. You don’t see any info because they are an expensive engine to rebuild. I would suggest if you are getting a good deal is to sell the U20 to a Roadster guy and use the profits toward the KA. A solid used motor is worth in the 1.5k area and the trans around $750.
  8. I have bought a few parts from Carl over the years. Never had any problems. Pretty well known in the Roadster circle.
  9. That does not look like a J intake, maybe an A14? I know my J intake was a solid casting with the exhaust open to the intake. There was no plate.
  10. Question, since the J13 intake and exhaust manifold are joined, how did you seal up the exhaust, or did you also use a MGB exhaust manifold?
  11. There is the Toyota Owners Restoration Club (T.O.R.C.), 3TCgarage, and 1stgencelica, but like most automotive message boards, they seems to be/are dying a slow death. Probably something on failbook.
  12. I love me some Starion. I’ve had both a flatty and a wide body and will someday find another flatty. Hell, I’ve been lugging around a scoop hood (real steel, not glass repop) for the last 15 years so I have it if/when I find the right car. IMO, there is not a great choice in swapping Mitsu engines, basically just the 4g63t, but you know they are a bit of work to convert to rwd. I would vote to LS swap it. Push rod simplicity with TONS of affordable aftermarket support. I have a 2nd gen Colt that will be getting one started soon.
  13. EGR really has nothing to do with the carb. In most older vehicles the ports are plugged with soot and they don’t work anyways. The only real problem you get is if the ports are clear and the EGR sticks open, you essentially get a vacuum leak. That is also how you can tell if they are working, if you lift the valve, or put vacuum to it, you should notice a drop in idle speed. You could keep the EGR if you keep the stock manifold and run a DGV or similar, but if you go sidedraft, pretty sure there is no such beast as a manifold with EGR ports.
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