mikec4193 Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Hi Ratsun folks... It was the fall of 1979 that I drove my first Datsun truck....had a 1972 then...ran that one into a power pole, rebuilt it into a 1971 with parts truck that cost me $200.00 (1981 era)...drove the wheels off of it...actually brought my newborn son home in it in Sept 1983. Then bought a 1970 Datsun ran that a couple of years (my avatar pic) then finished up with a 1974 / 75 Datsun truck...after that American made small trucks...decided during the summer after seeing a 1974 / 75 Datsun running around town... I found my latest one from a fellow on Craigslist who had it up for sale for at least a month...took it off line and then relisted for $1000.00 less than what he was asking for it... http://so here is a picture from the ad he ran.... This is it at my house in upstate New York.... http:// I got a call from the shipper late last week and he says I have a 1971 Datsun on my trailer...and I am heading to your place...should be there in a day or so....oh yeah he says we were told it ran...it doesn't he says....seller told me it ran out of gas but he would get it running before the shipper showed up...we didn't....I get to talk with him and he told me there was a loose wire on the coil.... http:// http:// Thanks to Wayno....he told me how to get it to run with a hot wire to the coil from the battery...problem is the ignition switch is by by-passed with this push button...it only shuts off when I unhook the hot wire.... http:// So tonight I spent some quality time trying to decipher what had been done electrically to this old truck...the harness looks really nice but everything has cut and chopped into.... http:// This is scary stuff for me.... So once we get it running safely I will tackle getting it back up in the air.... They lowered the rear with aluminum blocks....I can fix that part....what had me scratching my head is the front end...they never took it apart and re-indexed the torsion bars....it looks like they loosen the brackets on the back of the torsion bars..... http:// http:// If thats all they did...how many turns do I need to crank on those bolts to get it ride back where it was when it was factory??? Any insight would be great on how to get this electrically sane again...I would be very appreciative... Oh yeah the trucks name...I follow Esther Hicks and was going to name it Esther but the name on an old registration card I found was a Jerry Hicks.....so I figured it was too ugly of a truck to be Esther...so Jerry Hicks it is... MikeC 4 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Welcome, nice truck!! 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Crank it back up till it gets to the rusty threads, count how many turns, then do the other side, take the blocks out and you will be good to go as long as the U-bolts have enough threads. It really doesn't look that low, maybe just crank it up in the front till it is level, then drive it around for a while, it will still haul stuff. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Great truck. Keep it out of the New York winters. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Those large rear tires may have something to do with the ride height. If you're going to change the tire size, better take that into account first, or wait until you have the tires mounted. One upgrade I've wanted to do, but never had the right truck to do it on, is Toyota 4x4 wheels. The stock, stamped steel with hubcap variety look very similar to the stock Datsun wheel, but they are 15" diameter and come in widths ranging from 5.5" to 7". With the right tire, the 15x7's would add a subtle custom touch. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 To touch on that (^) a little...I did a lot of tire sizing before finally deciding on what I used. 196/65R15 is as close to original diameter for a 15" wheel you can get. Others will say to big. Look up my truck. I have proven it is not. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted November 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 http:// This was the I think the front fender on the drivers side before I did what I had to do....24 1/2" to the top of the opening http:// This looks like more like 27 3/4" to top of the opening.... http:// This was the before shot of the left rear.... This is the after shot....looks more like what I remember under the bottom side of these old trucks... http:// The US mail delivered the yellow one...the old truck came with the blue one.....are there better ones out there that I should be looking for??? So we have some left over parts laying around...anybody need these??...measures out to 4" total drop.... http:// This is what it looked like before I got busy with it tonight... http:// This is the new look...cant really tell from this angle but it looks a taller to me.... We have tons more to do to it....but I have something in the garage for the winter to tinker on....and the cool thing...I can push it around the yard all by myself...that is huge to me....the 1953 Chevy truck I sold in October 2016...I could not even push it out of the garage with out help... Love the size of this truck....fits me very well... MikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted November 10, 2016 Report Share Posted November 10, 2016 do the two blocks seperate so you can only do 3 instead of a full 4 inches? if so i'm interested 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted November 10, 2016 Report Share Posted November 10, 2016 The wiring diagram in the Haynes manual is wrong. Probably in the other one too. OldDatsuns.com is filled with all you need to know. 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted November 10, 2016 Report Share Posted November 10, 2016 Download this. http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/data/Service_Manual_Datsun_Pick-up_Model_521_Series_Chassis_and_Body.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 10, 2016 Report Share Posted November 10, 2016 be nice to have the angled blocks as going over 3 might induce a vibration on the transmission. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted November 10, 2016 Report Share Posted November 10, 2016 2° angled shims can be had at AutoZone for like $10. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted November 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 So we had a good day today at the MikeC compound...worked my second job until 2:30...went the local NAPA store afterwards to pickup some new shocks for yea old Jerry Hicks Datsun.... http:// I think they look nice... http:// I am dreadfully afraid of fires...so I need to get some welding done this winter and I dont know the status of the existing gas tank...so to kill two birds with one stone...we yanked the old box off and the gas tank came off it too... http:// before http:// during http:// And after.... So if the weather holds out...we take the gas tank off the box and get it to the sorta local gas tank shop and get it boiled out....looks like somebody has been at with JB weld or something similar.... So if the original tank is terminal...anybody know of another one of a newer make that might fit this application??? MikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 No newer ones fit, I have several of them here, but you are a long ways away, might cost a little bit of money to ship it there. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted November 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 So I got the fuel tank separated from the truck box....I could hear stuff inside...so I poured it out into a large drain pan... http:// Bottom of the tank doesnt look too healthy either.... http:// I never knew what was behind this box... http:// Now I know.... http:// And to think old Jerry Hick was running and driving like this....hoping for a good week this week with the old truck.... So does anybody know of a patch panel manufacturer that makes Datsun truck bed floors??? I am in the market for one if anybody can turn me onto one....that or does anybody have used floor they would be willing to sell me??? MikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 13, 2016 Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 I will tell you what to do about the tank, get a bunch of round lead sinkers for fishing, remove the sender, dump all that lead into the tank, duct tape all the holes closed, and shake the shit out of that tank for a while, take a rest, and then shake it some more, then empty all of them out of the tank, rinse and let it dry. Now buy the best tank liner kit you can buy and follow the directions, after you have swished the liquid around in the tank, empty the extra out the best you can, rest the tank on one end and then with pressurized air blow the fuel pick up tube clear of the liner material several times as it dries while the tank is resting on one end, you do not want the liner fluid gathering around the fuel pick up tube or plugging it up, this process will actually fill small pin holes also, then let it dry completely. You should be good to go after that, make sure you get a tank liner that is used for ethanol fuels. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 14, 2016 Report Share Posted November 14, 2016 Just checking out your thread.... I like the truck.. keep up the good work.... 1 Quote Link to comment
greenthumb Posted November 15, 2016 Report Share Posted November 15, 2016 sorry to threadjack- Wayno, on the leadshot treatment for the tank. Do you suggest to do that dry? Would it be an idea to pour some rust convertor in the tank and slosh that around before applying the tank liner? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 15, 2016 Report Share Posted November 15, 2016 sorry to threadjack- Wayno, on the leadshot treatment for the tank. Do you suggest to do that dry? Would it be an idea to pour some rust convertor in the tank and slosh that around before applying the tank liner? The lead shot or even a small chain are to knock loose any rust flakes so one can shake/rinse them out, I did it dry, then follow the directions for the liner, "Northern fuel tank liner" suggests a small chain, I said lead shot because it is heavy and that is what was suggested in the 60s/70s. I just read the directions again, it doesn't say anything about rust converter, it does say to remove any other products or liners before using their liner, I would ask/call them, they have a phone number on the can. I have also used "Bill Hirsch gas tank sealer"(alcohol Resistant) and was very happy with it, it sealed one of the mid 80s pressurized Ford Ranger tanks that actually had holes in it, it worked very well till I rolled that truck. I will repeat, you have to make sure that the tank liner doesn't plug the pick up tube, once plugged you might as well throw away the tank. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted November 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 We got a call from the gas tank rebuild guys...looks like $320.00 so far....folks are still trying to find an "O" ring for the sending unit... So last night...went out and tried to figure some more stuff out on the Jerry Hicks truck under the hood...some messed up vacuum hoses...making a run to NAPA to get new ones...they used gas line for the vacuum hose... Do the 1971 Datsun trucks come with a manual choke???...this one has one on it...chin scratching here... Looked down at the radiator and noticed there was no mounting flange on the passenger side....hmmm...more chin scratching here....only one bolt holding everything into the radiator mount....ordered up a new aluminum one from evilbay...2 new hoses from rock auto parts....not a bad night...less than $200.00 for everything... New ignition switch was ordered from "new-Datsun-parts" in Canada...that will be another week for that part to arrive.... The scariest thing about this truck is that someone actual drove this thing on the roadways of North Carolina... Slow but sure we crawl.... MikeC Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 Don't take this the wrong way and I don't know what motor you have or if you measured anything but they sell 2 different radiators .. i almost bought the wrong one.. ones probably for the j motors and one for the l16.... one has 32mm or 1.25 and one is 1.375 or 35mm... my l16 needed the 35 mm... 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 Nissan switched to a electric choke on the 521 in the 1972 model year. Exactly when the switch was made, I am not sure. I prefer a manual choke. An electric choke basically opens at a set rate, and opens at that rate no matter what the weather. A manual choke, if you do not need the choke to start the truck in the summer, you do not have to use it. Not many vacuum lines on a 521. Originally, the 521 had a an air pump to feed fresh air into the exhaust manifold for exhaust emissions control. Most 521 45 year old air pumps long ago quit working, and were removed. One vacuum hose went to a valve between the air pump outlet to the vacuum port on the # 3/4 intake runner. That was it, on 1970 521 trucks. The 1970 521 also had a manual lever to switch the air inlet on the air cleaner to take warm air off the exhaust manifold, or not. I know the 620 truck had vacuum valve that took over the manual lever, and there was a temp sensor in the air cleaner that directed vacuum to this valve, depending on air cleaner air temp. This system may have been incorporated into the 1972 521 trucks, and may have made it into 1971 trucks. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 Questions for the ratsun community....took some pics last night....I would love clarification on what I am looking at.... http:// This is under the hood...that is the horn that mounts to the fenderwell...what is the part mounted on the horn bracket??? http:// Still under the hood...looks like a mount for something...any ideas what it might be used for??? This is the drivers side of the block...very near the front of the engine block... http:// I know this is the dash...but my question is the round hole on the right side of the large square radio hole???...there is nothing behind it....mount for the manual choke maybe?? http:// This is under the hood...that hole just above the brake line junction block....is that where the manual choke is supposed to go?? If anybody has a choke cable let me know...I would love to put it back in the hole where it belongs.... Still can not believe someone drove this truck like this....very scary indeed.... Any insight from you Datsun guru's would be greatly appreciated.... MikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 18, 2016 Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 That first pic is a good one .. what's it wired too?. The bracket on the engine looks like it may have been for air compressor for ac.. And I think your right on the choke.. this was a screen shot I took for reference myself.. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 That cylinder picture with the wire...that is hooked to the coil... 1 Quote Link to comment
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