Problem with Compression or Timing on High Compression L20b causing pinging

[racerx]

Also if you have sidedrafts like Mikunis, very rare to find mechanics that knows how to tune sidedrafts let alone and even a 2 bbl weber like a 32/36.  Most are used to FI set up so make sure that mechanic knows L series engine and Sidedrafts this is from experience.  A lot of this tuning can be done by you, youtube, this site (how to section) , other Datsun sites and you can save your money and at the end when you fix it yourself, it feels good that you did it.  Just like what Stoffregen is saying you have to make this yourself....

[KoHeartsGPA]

Take it to Busta.

This is your BEST CHOICE if you want this thing purring like a kitten :thumbup:

[racerx]

And Busta lives in the Bay Area?  there you go!

[KoHeartsGPA]

Yup, him and several of the datlife guys are running side drafts...so this is the place to go!, look up Busta Nut here on Ratsun...

[racerx]

Busta owes us for "referral" fee :thumbup:

[Draker]

Busta is in San Rafael. About an hour and 15 minutes away from you. 

[510SSS]

Ya perhaps I will try to get a second opinion if this doesn't work pretty soon. I think my mechanic and I have diagnosed the problem, it would seem that my plug wires got old and were broken internally, even though they looked fine on the outside, I watched under the hood in the dark the other night and they were arcing to the number 3 cylinder, I also found a small crack in my distributor cap, so I am replacing wires, cap, and rotor and re-routing my plug wire routing to try to prevent any arcing in the future, I will get back to you guys on the results from these changes soon. :thumbup:

[KoHeartsGPA]

Get NGK wires, you'll pay a little more for a whole lot more quality ;)

[racerx]

Good start

[flatcat19]

Get Taylor wires so you can custom fit them and have way better wires than the NGK set, less resistance.

[510SSS]

Thanks Flatcat, ya the price difference seems worth it if they have lower resistance to prevent arcing, I'll order a set of Taylor's instead of the NGK's seeing as 2 sets have already failed me, I think manufacturing quality has gone down a bit since 1971 lol... sick they have em' in lime green too. :sneaky:

[scooter]

Hah I thought it had to be some wires crossing, I had a similar issue.

 

Post hits or burnout

[scooter]

Tits*

[flatcat19]

Tits, please. No damage to Datsun by posting boobs.

[510SSS]

Ya tits would be preferable :thumbup: however, smokey burnouts do come in a close 2nd, I will do one, before I swap in my 4.38 CLSD, then if it breaks from the torque I can just drop differential out afterwards :angel:  btw, anyone try'd those Wolf Creek CV axles out in their whip? (Oh and thanks 2 scooter, you're comment clued me in to look at the plug wires.)

[flatcat19]

PM mattndew here about CV axles for the 510.

 

Support Ratsun.

[510SSS]

Sweet sauce thx flatty catty go smoke a phatty.

[flatcat19]

Just flatcat would be fine. Gato works too.

 

You can keep the reefer to your self. No thanks.

[Lockleaf]

Ahhh, I thought the pet name was cute. Don't you go getting all uptight on us now, flatty catty :rofl:

[shacks510]

MSD 8.5mm super conductors. They come in sets of 8. Sell the other 4 to a friend. You can make them whatever length you like.

[510SSS]

Ya I think heat management may still be a problem as well, I am going to talk to my machine shop about fabricating a heat shield, I have noticed my fuel boiling at times on hot days. I think that if I combine the new plug wire setup with the heat shield and the airbox to bring in cold air from the front of the engine bay, I should be able to completely eliminate this pinging problem. I tried to take it on a drive the other day and it dropped cylinder number three so I am going to back to NGK BP6es-11's again, the BP7es didn't appear to make a difference. The only other thing I can think of is perhaps my distributor module is wigging out because of the higher revs of the long rod motor, I think I will buy a dual points distributor to use as backup, because I have already had one dizzy module go bad on me for no reason.

[flatcat19]

You could try the dizzy from a 78 620. It uses the GM HEI module.

 

Carry a spare module. Easy wire in.

 

 

 

Or...with that dizzy, the HEI one...MSD makes a wiring harness section that will plug in to the pretty looking MSD 6 box.

[510SSS]

Oh it has to be directly from a 78 you mean? That year actually uses a different module than other years? Or is a 77 or 79 the same module? Ya I was thinking of going MSD too, I saw a few videos from Japan and it seemed all the experienced drivers were using the MSD 6 box and we're getting a more consistent spark with less hesitation on cold starts for sure. However, $300 is pretty steep idk, I might just try to find another Module on ebay.

[flatcat19]

78 only is the HEI module controlled dizzy.

 

You can control it with the OE Nissan remote box, a GM HEI module, or an aftermarket control module, MSD.

 

79 is the matchbox EI. 77 is points.

[datzenmike]

The '79-'80 L20Bs had the matchbox modules. The '79-'81 L28 and L24 six cylinder distributors also. The ones for the 4 cylinder are ok and say E12-80 on them. The '82-'83 non turbo zx and '82-'84 Maxima are not and are marked E12-93.

 

The E12-93 modules work with the EFI engines and provide an electronic ignition retard function to tune out detonation/pinging.

 

All '79-'81 A series used the E12-80

The Z20S in the '79 A10 used the E12-8- but for '81 a new internal module was introduced similar to the Z20E in the 200sx and all the Z series trucks.