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Problem with Compression or Timing on High Compression L20b causing pinging


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you can also run an msd off a matchbox, your just hooking it to the two wires inside on either distributor. I've tried switching these wires around and it seems to be timed and runs the same. Theres has been arguments on there saying the matchbox is good as and msd, and it probably is. It's also nice to have Rev limiting capability and retard for nos/boost etc.

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I prefer to use the old single point, or even dual point, stock 510 distributors with a Pertronix Ignitor in them. They look most at home in a 510 engine bay.

 

Finding parts to recurve a matchbox distributor is impossible. You'll have to make all those tweaks the old way.

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Wow, ok so I'm already running the 79 620 Dizzy, the E12-92, but I have been having problems with it, already lost 2 modules. Do you guys really think the Pertronix is superior? I had one on my L-16 motor before and the thing burnt out the second week I got it and left me stranded on the side of the road. Seems really cheaply made hmm, how would I wire up my ignition to work with the 78 distributor? Could I just drop it in place of my 79 Dizzy or would I need to wire up an external module in order to regulate the spark? Thanks for clearing things up all. :confused:

 

Oh and racerx im pretty sure you're mistaken about the 68-69 only single points, my 71 came with a single points distributor, so I think it may have been 68-71 not 69-69.

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Wow, ok so I'm already running the 79 620 Dizzy, the E12-92, but I have been having problems with it, already lost 2 modules. Do you guys really think the Pertronix is superior? I had one on my L-16 motor before and the thing burnt out the second week I got it and left me stranded on the side of the road. Seems really cheaply made hmm, how would I wire up my ignition to work with the 78 distributor? Could I just drop it in place of my 79 Dizzy or would I need to wire up an external module in order to regulate the spark? Thanks for clearing things up all. :confused:

 

Oh and racerx im pretty sure you're mistaken about the 68-69 only single points, my 71 came with a single points distributor, so I think it may have been 68-71 not 69-69.

 

Check again. You need the E12-80 module. The E12-93 if used on a non EFI engine will retard as it revs up. I think this can be defeated by grounding one of the wires but I don't know for sure.

 

 

 

The '79-'80 L20Bs had the matchbox modules. The '79-'81 L28 and L24 six cylinder distributors also. The ones for the 4 cylinder are ok and say E12-80 on them. The '82-'83 non turbo zx and '82-'84 Maxima are not and are marked E12-93.

 

The E12-93 modules work with the EFI engines and provide an electronic ignition retard function to tune out detonation/pinging.

 

All '79-'81 A series used the E12-80

The Z20S in the '79 A10 used the E12-8- but for '81 a new internal module was introduced similar to the Z20E in the 200sx and all the Z series trucks.

 

Here's one I have from a Maxima. If you look on the side there are terminals for two more wires marked I and W

 

DatsunEI003Large-1.jpg

 

No the Pertronix definitely is not superior, just an option. The two questions below are not a problem with the matchbox.

 

 

 

Do they handle a lower 0.8-1.0 ohm impedance coil and have a hotter spark?

Do they shut off if the key is left on and the engine not started? or does the coil fry?

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how would I wire up my ignition to work with the 78 distributor? Could I just drop it in place of my 79 Dizzy or would I need to wire up an external module in order to regulate the spark? Thanks for clearing things up all. :confused:

 

 

Already answered, a few times actually.

 

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/195-hei-wiring-pics-w-writeup/

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Ya perhaps I will try to get a second opinion if this doesn't work pretty soon. I think my mechanic and I have diagnosed the problem, it would seem that my plug wires got old and were broken internally, even though they looked fine on the outside, I watched under the hood in the dark the other night and they were arcing to the number 3 cylinder, I also found a small crack in my distributor cap, so I am replacing wires, cap, and rotor and re-routing my plug wire routing to try to prevent any arcing in the future, I will get back to you guys on the results from these changes soon. :thumbup:

 

So not pre ignition then?

 

If wires were replaced why are we fucking with the distributor? Did the new wires work or not?

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Wow, ok so I'm already running the 79 620 Dizzy, the E12-92, but I have been having problems with it, already lost 2 modules. Do you guys really think the Pertronix is superior? I had one on my L-16 motor before and the thing burnt out the second week I got it and left me stranded on the side of the road. Seems really cheaply made hmm, how would I wire up my ignition to work with the 78 distributor? Could I just drop it in place of my 79 Dizzy or would I need to wire up an external module in order to regulate the spark? Thanks for clearing things up all. :confused:

 

Oh and racerx im pretty sure you're mistaken about the 68-69 only single points, my 71 came with a single points distributor, so I think it may have been 68-71 not 69-69.

 

Still wanting to know about this. You need an E12-80 module not anything else. Told you it does some weird retard thing when revved up.

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Basically u have 2 issues, 1. Misfire 2. Pinging. If misfire coud b vacuum leak or weak spark 2. Pinging too advance or hot spots on cylinder walls. For vacuum, spray carb cleaner around carb area or intake, if rpm goes up, then vacuum leak, can also test w vacuum gauge. For pinging, too advance timing. I think mike said it with wrong distributor. One thing at a time, set base line, like w timing. If u have an xtra dist. That fits then try that.

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Stoffregen, how can u make a dual point dist. Work for pertronix.?

Solid breaker plate from Nissan Motorsports.

 

Do they handle a lower 0.8-1.0 ohm impedance coil and have a hotter spark?

Do they shut off if the key is left on and the engine not started? or does the coil fry?

If your system has a ballast resistor, they say to leave it, but there are pretty specific instructions as to the ohms.

 

The Ignitor II has a stronger spark, but the original Ignitor is basically a points replacement system. If you use it in conjunction with their Flamethrower coil, it does make a difference.

 

If you leave the key on, nothing blows up. At least in my experience. It's a hall effect sensor.

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Ok, thank's mike, I didn't think of that, maybe I have the Maxima distributor so it is retarding the timing when I rev it up, and therefore causing it to misfire. Yes my mechanic does know what he is doing, the walls of his shop are covered with Datsun 510 race cars, and he learned from a professional Datsun engine builder, who was in the biz for over 30 yrs, quit hating flatogato start participating... :rofl:

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