Ratwagon1600 Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 if doing the head gasket yourself do some research and watch some videos also DONT DROP THE CHAIN MAKE SURE ITS WEDGED A series are push rod....but you know this. Bloody Rookie. 1 Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Bloody Rookie. I have rebuilt both L and A series just didn't read what car he had before giving my advise Quote Link to comment
Ratwagon1600 Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 I have rebuilt both L and A series just didn't read what car he had before giving my advise Your excused. You have "some" cred :) 1 Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 With the head off, you might think about having the valves ground. If the engine was running well with good power before the head gasket blew, the valves may be just fine and you don't need to worry about it. The easy thing to do is just replace the gasket and don't worry about the valves, which is fine - unless you have a burned valve or one or more that just aren't seating especially well which causes a power loss. Having the valves ground may not be cheap either. Possibly the valve seats need to be changed to newer ones for unleaded gas. And sometimes valves need to be replaced, not just reground. You also need to find a trustworthy automotive machine shop that will do competent work and not rob you too badly. Another option would be replace the head gasket, then take a compression test which may prove the valves are fine. That would be great if it works. If not it would just cost extra time and another head gasket to remove the head again. But you should check the head for flatness before you reinstall. And you may need to have this done by a machine shop. I don't know how warped an A-series head can be, but needs to be flat within a few thousands of an inch. Not easy to check without a good straightedge or surface plate, although maybe someone will post a good backyard way of checking head flatness. Len Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted March 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 Does anyone have recommendations on a mechanic whom will take the B210 head gasket job in Chicago? I've called around but get the same answer..."Don't know how to bill for it and don't work on cars that old." Any ideas? Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 Wow.. what lame shops. 2 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Does anyone have recommendations on a mechanic whom will take the B210 head gasket job in Chicago? I've called around but get the same answer..."Don't know how to bill for it and don't work on cars that old." Any ideas? Cuz shitcago... Go to the suburbs and look for small businesses that work on any car....Japanese specialist shop preferred, do research on them and if you feel satisfied pull the trigger. Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted March 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 The shops I've contacted were both in the suburbs. I will need to contact more tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Go further out...good luck! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Does anyone have recommendations on a mechanic whom will take the B210 head gasket job in Chicago? I've called around but get the same answer..."Don't know how to bill for it and don't work on cars that old." Any ideas? It ain't rocket science, nor is the A series over head cam. Get a manual and some wrenches and you can do this yourself. 2 Quote Link to comment
angliagt Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Don't you have a machine shop that can do this? Check with any racers (SCCA - Chicago Region) - they should be able to recommend one for you. 2 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 Update: I had a mechanic do a few tests on the car. -leak down test -compression test -pressure test of cooling system The mechanic has a reputable shop in the suburbs 1 hour outside of Chicago. He gave me a detailed estimate of head job however recommended a full engine rebuild to ensure that the lower engine will perform well. The cost of the diagnosis/testing plus oil change was $250. The estimate was $4500 for complete engine rebuild with machine shop changes being high. Its times like this i wish I knew someone who knows how to do a head gasket change and has the tools for the work. The mechanic found a significant amount of fluid in the engine oil making it milky grey and explained how this can damage the engine overtime. He suspected that it may be more than a head gasket because of this. Leak down test was less than good with cylinder not holding pressure (forgive me on my lack of knowledge of these tests) His recommendation was to drive it easily home and not to drive it at all due to the leak. The car runs very good overall...besides this coolant leak into the engine. Any thoughts on what to do? I thought a head job on the A14 would be significantly less labor due to small size of the engine, no plastic covers on the engine and overall increased space under the hood. The shop charges $120/hour for labor alone. I understand that having the car sit in the garage is death to the car. I want to be able to drive it in the summer however don't want to cause extra damage or have a dangerous event occur. Any ideas? Know a mechanic in Chicagoland? Will a head job be sufficient? Not wanting to spend more than the car is worth to fix it. The whole point of rocking a B-210 is fun and not spending tons of money to keep it up. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 Run away from him. $120 an hour is usury and there should be laws against this. Why should you pay for his Corvette and house??? The milky oil is simply water from a bad gasket. Fix the gasket fixes the problem. (and change the oil Get a manual. $50 Get a set or wrenches. $100. Get a gasket. $40 Ask on here if you have any questions. You can do this for Under $200 and you end up with valuable knowledge and the wrenches which can be used over and over again. My last head gasket was $23 to fix and this was an over head cam. Yours is easier. 2 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 Run away from him. $120 an hour is usury and there should be laws against this. Why should you pay for his Corvette and house??? The milky oil is simply water from a bad gasket. Fix the gasket fixes the problem. (and change the oil Get a manual. $50 Get a set or wrenches. $100. Get a gasket. $40 Ask on here if you have any questions. You can do this for Under $200 and you end up with valuable knowledge and the wrenches which can be used over and over again. My last head gasket was $23 to fix and this was an over head cam. Yours is easier. Fantastic. I have the 1978 B-210 service manual, Chilton's and another Datsun manual showing pictures and process of an A14 tear down. I have the head gasket and intake exhaust gaskets. I plan to study the guides. Which set of wrenches would you recommend? Which sizes? Much thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 Metric is all you need. Any other just buy them as needed. Sears Craftsman I hear are good and they have lifetime warranty. As long as the store is open you can take anything broken in and they will replace it. Buy quality and they will last a lifetime. You don't need the intake/exhaust gaskets. Lift the head off with them on. Get help if you have to. Unbolting them is not only a pain but you risk breaking a bolt or stud off. If your head is warped and should need to be taken to a shop to have it milled flat then it's much easier to work on with the head and manifolds off the engine. Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Excellent, here's some questions.... 1. As far as cleaning the head and block surfaces, I have read to "scrape" it clean and then use ether/starting fluid to remove oil. What do you use to scrape off the surfaces? 2. Also, wire brushing the threads of the head bolts is understandable, however how can I clean out the bolt holes? 3. When it says to lightly oil the head bolt threads, is this done with engine oil? 4. I understand to disconnect the battery and drain the radiator coolant. Do I also need to drain the engine oil prior to disassembly, or just change the oil after reassembly and before starting up the vehicle? 5. Are the push rods to be removed prior to unbolting and removing the cylinder head? How is a push rod removed? I know that I will need to label them for reassembly in proper position. Some preliminary questions. Thanks! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 I just wire brush the block clean and wipe it with a cloth. Don't get crap in the cylinders. The head is softer aluminum so just be more careful with it. Inspect the head and block where the gasket blew for damage. Check the head for flatness. If warped it will just blow the gasket again. Just screw the head bolts in to keep crap out while wire brushing. Just wipe the bolts with an oily rag. Drain and change the oil any time, but be sure to change the filter too. The push rods should just lift out. You can keep them in order or not. They are all identical. Inspect for damage or bending. Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 1. Should the push rods be lifted out prior to unbolting and removing the head? 2. Should I get a feeler gauge to inspect the head? Is warping easy to see with visual inspection? Thanks! Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 What size torque wrench? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 10,12,13,14,15, 17, 19mm 3/8 socket and ratchet set should do everything. You can lift the push rods out before the head comes off. A straight edge and is a 0.003" feeler gauge slips under the straight edge at any place, the head needs to be planed down Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Excellent. To summarize, the tools needed are sockets for the stated numbers in millimeters and a 3/8 inch socket? What size should the torque wrench be? Or is a torque wrench just a ratchet that you can add different size sockets to? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 The numbers are the socket (bolt) sizes. The 3/8 is the drive size of the ratchet. 3/8 sockets fit 3/8 ratchets. You could get 1/2" drive ratchet and sockets but they are larger/more expensive than needed for most Datsun bolts. There are also 1/4" drive for very small nuts but 3/8 is pretty much everything you need. Some sets will include all three and all three sets of sockets. Here is just an example of the three sizes. Be sure to get metric sizes. Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 A quick word on new craftsman ratchets...shit, they break easily and you don't get a new one, you get a shite rebuild kit. I have cheap assed crescent brand that's better than craftsman. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Your mechanic probably isn't a Datsun mechanic so you are basically paying him to learn and experiment on your car. When done he walks away with the earned knowledge. I think we have a tools post somewhere. For less that one hour of your mechanic's rip off rate you can set yourself up with a good basic set of wrenches. Don't forget that the next time you need them you already have them, know how to use them and know how to change your head gasket. Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 This is fantastic. I'm researching everything and will do it. A few more questions... 1. I want to make a thread cleaner from an old head bolt as seen on a previous post...How can I obtain an old head bolt that I know fits the car? 2. I have all the sockets, so I'm just going to purchase a basic 3/8 inch clicker type torque wrench and use the correct size socket for the tightening of the head bolts... correct? 3. When draining the coolant, do I just open the bottom of the radiator? 4. So I remove the head with the manifold attached? If so, does this mean I removed the car from the manifold? If so, do I need that little carb to manifold gasket? Thanks...just ordered a valve cover gasket for 7 bucks and about to buy a 3/8 in torque wrench...I'm gathering all the tools/supplies needed. Quote Link to comment
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