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About jboulukos

  • Rank
    Hall Monitor
  • Birthday 10/28/1978

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  • Location
    Chicago, IL
  • Cars
    1978 B210 2 door sedan

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  1. Thank you. Great info as usual. Car is back to running great. Here’s what I did today. Removed the air cleaner housing, sprayed the throttle linkage? With carb cleaner and scrubbed with toothbrush. Seemed a bit loose as far as metal arms/joints sliding about, however intact. Adjusted the choke back to original position from the last 4 years which happened to be turned to the right, around 2 o’clock. Took the choke electric wire out of its socket connection and pushed it back it tightly. Tested the diaphragm saucers...the one at the distributor was fine (no air sucked through), the
  2. Regarding the diaphragms, are you taking about the carb...the saucer looking things? How can I test them? if they are shot, can I replace them with diaphragms from an extra carb? Thanks for the direction.
  3. Car start still remains poor, as if it is about to start but then stops, require 6-12 attempts that get closer and closer to initiating the engine, then requires repetitive presses of the gas pedal to stay running for the first 10 seconds. It’s 60 degrees, not cold. I had an oil change today and drove about 60 miles. Then drove again and within 1 mile was losing power again. Pulled over, started up the engine and drove a few blocks and the loss of power issue stopped. Should I check compression? I still think I must not have the carburetor adjustments dialed in. If I had poor compressi
  4. Drove nice after warming up. No significant white smoke. Radiator full of coolant. Oil change scheduled for Wednesday.
  5. Started rough again this morning. White smoke and engine would die when gas lightly pressed in park. Idled fasted than usual, due to choke adjustment. White smoke and dripping of some fluid coming from tailpipe. Warmed up and started to idle better. Starts right up after it is warm. Help.
  6. -Plugs are NGK -new plugs/rotor/wires 6/2016 and less than 2500 miles I found some rear shock absorbers on rockauto. $28 each...don’t know this brand though. they also had front struts for the B210. Any thoughts on these?
  7. Fuel filter was changed last week. I’ve done about 190 miles and hesitation is more and more rare although happened today for the first time in 3-4 days. I sprayed the carb cleaner on the linkage. I’ll hit it with the Wd-40 tomorrow. Also I am wondering about the suspension. I have had the car since 2009 and not certain when the shocks/struts were changed. Are there any recommended struts/shocks that I can grab on rockauto or any recommended brands. A mechanic recommended the brand Sachs. Do I need to inspect the leaf springs? Are they ever an issue. Again, nothing has been done
  8. Car starts and runs well. Took it around town, 25-50mph. I was cruising at about 37mph and noticed it starting to lose power, not run steady, hesitating slightly. Then I waiting a minute or so to make a left hand turn and noticed it was losing power when I tried to accelerate from a stopped position. Same issue I had been having the previous week. Turned off the car and started it and everything was fine driving home 4 miles. Not sure what’s going on. Debris floating around in the carb, blocking a jet at random times? I still have to spray the linkage.
  9. Great info. What does NLA stand for?
  10. sorry the photo loaded sideways from the original. This is the last adjustment I made. It’s slightly into the lean side (past 12 o’clock) but not nearly as lean as it was originally set to.
  11. Also, where to get this cotton type filter material?
  12. I followed the directions. Great outcome. My initial carb choke setting was turned to the lean side. Turned to the rich side, touching the gas a bit, made the choke flat drop flat. The car started so fast I barely heard the starter. But then I decided it was too rich because of the smell of the exhaust (correct?), and it didn’t rev well. Turned it back towards lean side slightly. Seems to start, idle and rev great. I haven’t driven it yet though. How is this adjustment best determined to be precise? Just going by car performance? Smell? Starting qualit
  13. I had a chance to look in the carb as someone pressed the pedal 3 times and attempted to start the car. This was the first start of the day, and the temperature was 60-65 degrees so it was nice outside and not cold. At rest, the carb flap which is on the left side , was half way open. While looking at the carb, although I heard the 3 pedal presses, I did not see the top flat on the left side move. Nor did the flap move during the start. I eventually got it started within 20 seconds and tapping the pedal. Once started I need to continue to press the pedal or the engine wants to stop. After 10
  14. Thanks as always for the clarification. 1. radio works, no light = I’ll replace bulb at some point. ✅ 2. ordered a cork gasket From Napa, getting today. $6.50 US ✅ 3. didn’t do the choke flap inspection yet this morning however I looked at the carb float and the gas was about 20% full, just enough to see the lower 20% of the window full with gas. The start was tough again. I will look at the choke flap soon. Could a loose carb base be any issue with this? I frequently find I need to tighten the 4 nuts at the base due to being slightly loose. I imagine that would be more of
  15. I’m going to list by number some issues or questions related to the current performance of my B210. Please feel free to reply. 1. I have never had illumination from my original Clarion AM radio nor my ventilation/heating selections. Do you guys know if these areas are meant to illuminate or if they even have lighting/bulbs to be replaced. I checked the manual but could not find anything. Photo posted of instrument cluster from the manual. 2. The cover on top of the cylinder head seems to be leaking oil. I can see some oil residue on the front cover and shininess on the cylin
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