jrock4224 Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 set my truck to 0ish seems a little darty at 70 should i try a little toe in now ? was running toe out and it was darty as fuck ...for the 5 years i ownded the truck Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 take it to an alignment shop maybe...... 2 Quote Link to comment
torqued Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Can you post your current alignment spec? and how are the tyres wearing? Any feathering on the tyres? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Yes, a performance alignment need 1/4" toe-in. [EDIT: 1/6"] 3 Quote Link to comment
sssr20det510 Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 You prob need more caster and a little toe in 1 Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 back ground....bought the truck ... 2008ish... lowered it... drove it .. lowered it more ... drove it ...lowered it more and drove it ... lowered the fuck out of it and drove. it ... never had a alignment cuz the front end was so warn out they would make me replace everything ... so i just been driving it ... made our own tram guage and centered the thing out last night .. drives gooderest...but a little darty up around 75.... this is a newer used steering box wth a small adjustment on the screw already made........ dont wanna go there anymore!!!! i just got all new steering parts today and my king pins back so now i can have it aligned soon just wondering if i should try some toe in now ... from my rc set up knowledge toe in calms down a darty car at speeds ... kills your exit but its a datsun im not worried about that ... i can tell u going from driving with toe out for so long and moving it to center.... it was a vast difference...lol but the newer box made a difference too the old one was clpped out and super draggy from being over tightened and warn the fuck out Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 thanks zilla..... appreciate it ... home made tram gauge 1 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Best to take to a alignment place that knows what their doing. Especially a truck thats been modifyed such as yours could be as simple as a caster change which king pin trucks have very little of, to a rear diff off center etc aka crab walk 1/8 inch and you, ll feel it . Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Lowered 4 times and never aligned. Would anyone care to guess the source of this problem? 3 Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Consider having your TC rods shortened about 3/8" before getting it aligned? Yes, it puts the lower control arm bushing in a very minor offset/bind, but the increase in caster/driveability is worth it in my opinion. And 1/4" toe in is way too much, but you do need it to be toed in. 1/16" - 1/8" will make it much happier. 2 Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted January 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Lowered 4 times and never aligned. Would anyone care to guess the source of this problem? the steering components we original and severely warn they never woulda allgned it .... not without a 1 k parts bill ... last night i replaced the idler and inner rod ends and outer tie rods....omg new truck ... wish i did that long ago ... still havent installed my new king pins...ordered upper bushings.....went 1/4 and its too far ... fighting me now ... gonna back it off and get a alignment once the king pin are on......need to find the part number for new tension rod bushings... mike u know erik and i aren't beefing anymore right .... we squashed that ... long ago 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Just double-checked. It should be 4mm or about 1/6". Wheel alignment is simple * toe-in to spec * more caster than stock * less camber than stock Of all these, toe-in is most critical. The only trick is accurately setting it. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 I have my 720 setup 0 toe 3 degress caster and 1 degree negative camber. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 just take it to Les Schwab and let them do it . If you have big tires the darting will be amplified. This is way I like the stock tire/rim set up. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Is this trying to bite into the turns at speed, meaning it wants to turn more and you have to hold it back? Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted January 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 sometimes ? why Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 Your going to need to do it a different way now, it's going to become a problem one day. sometimes ? why I had a castor issue for a few months a long time ago when I first changed to front balljoints/disc brakes on the 521 work truck, it was my first conversion, my truck would bite into turns, my trailer would not follow the truck, it would swing back and forth back there, and people would keep driving up beside me and point at the trailer, like I needed them to tell me, well one day when I was hauling a load of wood down the hiway, I almost lost it, that sucker bit in and the steering wheel almost got away from me, that was the last time I ever had that issue in that truck again, I fixed it. I had been putting shims in the back mount bolt for the upper spindle, trying to get that upper balljoint back, I just could not get it back far enough, well when I got home and had removed the wood from the truck, I looked at my setup real close, that day I realized that I could reverse the upper 720 arms I was using as they were offset towards the front, I put the driverside on the passenger side, and the passenger side on the driverside, it put the balljoints way back there where they were supposed to be, it was like a new freaking truck, I couldn't believe it. I actually took it in to be aligned within a week, I had been putting it off trying to get it dialed in for months. You are using the stock 521 upper arms as far as I know, yours are not offset either direction, so your going to have to do it a different way now, as the top of your wheels are being sucked it towards the engine, correct? Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted January 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 i think everyone is mis interpreting me ... i am gonna get a alignment just trying to get it close till im done with the parts swaps ..........right now withthe old king pins in i have way moe passenger camber then drivers yet the same amount of shims .... the king pin has a ton of play in that side ... still waiting on bushings so i can swap the spindles to my new king pins......it doesit wirse turning drivers side wayno .. its the less cambered wheel .... c Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 You are on track. Setting the toe will help until you get the parts ready for a full alignment. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 What I was trying to get at is that after you lower it to the point that the top of the wheel is starting to tilt towards the engine, the camber cannot be done/aligned without modifications when sitting static, and the castor is also severely limited also, more than once on Ratsun guys have come back and said that the alignment shop they took there vehicle to said it could not be done the way it sat. This is why guys like Mike and beebani are making custom arms. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 Consider having your TC rods shortened about 3/8" before getting it aligned? Yes, it puts the lower control arm bushing in a very minor offset/bind, but the increase in caster/driveability is worth it in my opinion. And 1/4" toe in is way too much, but you do need it to be toed in. 1/16" - 1/8" will make it much happier. Jon. Listen to jason. He is dead on about what it needs to be set at. I have taken all of my dattos to les schwab in seaside. The alignment guy says the exact same thing. And, he worked for datsun back in 70s doing what he is now... Never had an issue with it being set at what Jason has said. Tires wear perfectly and evenly like they should. No funky steering. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 I missed that post, that is a way of getting more castor without messing with the upper control arm. Jon. Listen to jason. He is dead on about what it needs to be set at. I have taken all of my dattos to les schwab in seaside. The alignment guy says the exact same thing. And, he worked for datsun back in 70s doing what he is now... Never had an issue with it being set at what Jason has said. Tires wear perfectly and evenly like they should. No funky steering. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 I missed that post, that is a way of getting more castor without messing with the upper control arm. Throw it on the lathe and run it down another half inch. Some guys just cut the bushings and put them on the outside, Machining it down would be a little better. I have some off a B210 machined down sitting in my tool bag. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 I have cut the bushing before, I actually had to, I am using a 620 TC rod/bushing on a 521. Throw it on the lathe and run it down another half inch. Some guys just cut the bushings and put them on the outside, Machining it down would be a little better. I have some off a B210 machined down sitting in my tool bag. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted January 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 funny when we built the tram gauge, hans and I had a extensive conversation about building adjustable control rods similarly to the troy ones on our 510s....but yes i plan on addressing the caster issue .. i think right now one king pin is so fucked, since it has way more camber and shit ton of play is affecting the issue cuz the steering wayno is describing only happens one direction .... i got a couple good alignment guys but this truck will pr0lly get the schwab treatment .,,,,, i am reluctant though cuz all my peeps at my les schwab have gone onto bigger and better things so telling them anything is like going to vatozone and talking machine work hopefully my bushing show up so i can swap the fresh king pins on this weekend and address the issue but fuck the truck drive a billion times nicer already.....i think i need to back off my adjustment screw too its seems to have gotten too stiff ....what fluid goes in a steering box ....fuck i wish they had a power steering option Quote Link to comment
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