edekalil Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 Anyone have any luck on getting broke or old studs out of an exhaust manifold where it attaches to the down pipe on a 510 so new ones can be installed? Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 I usually "double nut" the studs that aren't broken. That's when you put two nuts onto the threads, then tighten them together to enable you to turn the stud out using the "bottom" nut. If they resist, work them back and forth a little at a time. Penetrating oil never hurts, either. If they break, well, then you're either welding a nut onto the broken end and turning it out that way, or drilling it out. Patience and accuracy are the key. Best of luck. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 If the stud has enough length to get vice grips on heat the manifold cherry red and it will twist right out. Heat makes the threaded hole larger. Propane torch has not worked for me except on aluminum thermostat. Try running the motor untill hot? Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted December 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 Well I have a cutting torch set up and saw some insetting videos on YouTube. I will give it a shot sometime this week. Thanks Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 Mike,Horrible Freight has a "weed burner" that is basically an over-grown propane torch that hooks to a 5 gallon bottle.It'll turn a brake drum cherry red in 2 minutes. Quote Link to comment
laotsu Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 had to drill and retap mine Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 As others have said, if you have enough to work with sticking out, Heat the mani and it should come out. If it is flush with the mani, I start with a die grinder and a burr that is round. carefully grind a recess in the bolt. This makes it easier to find center with a punch. Punch it, Then drill an 1/8 hole thru it. Then work your way up in drill size to the minor diameter of the threads.( M8x1.25 is about .265) If you centered it up well, you should be able to pull the remains out like a piece of wire. But they usually give up and come out before that. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 THIS GUY IS GOOD!!!!!!!!!!! then use stainless studs with antiseize compound!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 Mike,Horrible Freight has a "weed burner" that is basically an over-grown propane torch that hooks to a 5 gallon bottle.It'll turn a brake drum cherry red in 2 minutes. we use this to prep already powdercoated wheels..... it super heats the powder and makes it brittle for sand blast purposes... Quote Link to comment
Humboldt Posted May 6, 2015 Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 So, my exhaust stud was broken off flush wth the manifold, so I took the manifold off. Should I heat the head or the stud or neither? I don't want to warp or damage the head. Thanks. By the way, it's a '72 goon that had a blown L16 and a spare that I am going to put in. Pics soon. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted May 6, 2015 Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 You'd heat the head to expand the metal around the stud. I would just drill that fucker out. Drill straight through it and spray some PB blaster in behind the bolt.. let it sit for a while. Drill bigger... drill bigger.. try an easy out. If it doesn't spin easy.. drill it to just inside of the threads in the head. Then try to chip away at the bolt to remove it. Otherwise, drill it completely out. install helicoil... blah blah blah. If you are patient enough, you should be able to get it out without killing the threads. Then you can just toss another stud in it and call it a day. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted May 6, 2015 Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 Tip for success.... center punch the bolt in the dead center. That way the hole will be centered.. and you'll be setup for success. 1 Quote Link to comment
Humboldt Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 I did an attempt with an easy out before I took the manifold off. I couldn't get the easy off to bite and I freaked out hearing all the stories about broken easy outs. So tonight I am going to try heat and vice grips. Quote Link to comment
Humboldt Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 Success! Heat + vicegrips, and screw in the drilled out ez out fail hole so that the (hollowed out) stud wouldnt collapse and dissintegrate. Now to get stuff ready for a weber. Thanks for the help. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 Apply enough heat to expand the cast iron in the manifold, but not enough to expand the stud. Douse it with WD40 and attempt to extract it. If it doesn't come at all, heat it again and hit it with WD40 again and let it sit. The cooling pulls the WD40 into the threads. You could also try pinging it with a hammer. Not enough to deform the metal, but enough to break the two metals apart. Quote Link to comment
Humboldt Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 Anyone now source/part number for stainless steel exhaust manifold studs? I plan to nickel and dime my dime by at least upgrading parts like these as I go. Here is Humboldt, fighting rust is a losing battle, so I am focusing on the engine. The car came from Redding, so I am cleaning red dirt off everything. Soon to become red rust, no doubt! Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 I use standard hardend studs for most high heat situiations, and all metal locking nuts ( stove nuts ) might be the technical term for them. Hot and cold cycles standard nuts will back them selfs off over time which will cause leaks or the exhaust just to fall off. All of this can be found on MCmaster carr online catalog cheap enough Quote Link to comment
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