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620 rac and pinion


polmec

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Hey not sure if it helps but the Ha vauxhall viva/envoy epic rack is front mount and had a spare sitting to compare widths not too far off! Dont know what you'd do with the steering column though,That'd be up to you to work out :P  The viva steering shaft fits between the front cross member and sump on the stock engine. DSC_0875.jpg

 

The 1200mm that you are measuring isn't really the part that we are concerned about. We need a rack that has the inner tie rod pivots in the same spot or really really close to the stock 620. This means that the inner pivots need to be really close to 19"(483mm) apart IIRC. Then most likely custom outer tie rods of something from another vehicle that makes the total width correct.

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Years ago,when I started the build on the wifes truck,I looked at R&P account I need a/c.There are NO existing racks that will fit a 620.I talked to Flaming River and was told a custom rack would be around 600.00 bucks.

 

That's not that bad of a price when you look at other options(if there was one).

 

There is also the sprint car racks made by Sweet Manufacturing. More money though.

 

You guys may consider looking into a Dodge Intrepid rack. It is a front steer rack that uses inner pivots that are about 4 inches apart. Would require the use of fairly long tie rod assemblies. And the inner mounting point uses a bushing rather than a traditional style tie rod which might make it easy to make the custom length that will be needed. Should be easy to adapt a heim joint onto it.

One of the aftermarket companies is using this style rack in their street rod kits.

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The problem I'm having finding a rack, is a rack that small doesn't have the travel to make the full range of steering.  It takes about 5.5 inches.  The ones you can have made by Flaming River and Unisteer are just shy of that about 5.25.  I think I can settle for 5.25, but they are expensive.  I may opt to fork up the dough, but I'm looking at modifying another rack as well.

 

Keep in mind the rack needs to be about 16 inches wide from pivot center to pivot center (of the rack).  You can go a bit wider to 17 if you can raise the rack up, but then you have to keep in mind the connection point at the spindle will also have to raised or lowered accordingly.  I'm not a steering expert, but I can do basic trigonometry.  Keeping the tie rod ends parallel to the pivot points is key to avoid bump steering.  The pivot points are the center of the lower balljoint and the end of the rack that can move up and down.

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Anyone that says something can't be done isn't trying hard enough.

 

 

 

 

Rack and Pinion

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/23800-ka24de-update-and-photos/

 

 

 

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Bringing this back up to ask what steering rack you used?

 

 

Its a Mustang II

 

 

 

 

 

AC

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/35534-ka-620-with-ac/

 

 

I had a shop make the hoses and I used the ka one and made a bracket ot go where the power steering pump was. I used a universal drier and condenser. these pics where before I just had it painted
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Enjoy :)

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Who says you have to mount the compressor with the factory brackets? Custom brackets aren't to difficult, my buddy ran a second alternator on his wheeler and made the brackets with a grinder and a drill.

 

 

Looks like that mustang II rack works just fine, pivot points are pretty close even. You might PM datsunpartsllc and ask how it handles though  :)

 

 

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Yes. It can be done and has been done. That truck also has bump steer. It doesn't bother most people though.

It has bump steer.No kiddin'? I'm not handing over the keys to a truck with bump steer to my wife.So it's safe to say that rack doesn't "Work".Bump steer can get you killed.

 

A/C- the compressor diameter is greater than the distance between the block and steering box.

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Hog wash! to say that anything is impossable in a mechanical sense is a wee bit close minded. I have seen some pretty intense things in my life. Shit last week I worked on a friends dedicated race vett that had a alternator mounted to the rear diff housing driven off the driveline. I have helped build wheeling rigs with dual alternators york pump and hydrualic pump all stuffed in the engine bay of a first gen toyota 4x4. Nothing is impossable. Just stray away from boxed thinking. Disreguard the spelling grammer, too busy thinking about cars during english class...

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Take this with grain of salt because I am not an automotive engineer. 

 

The design theory is the axis points of the rack are supposed to lay in an imaginary line that connects the upper control arm to the lower control arm swivel points, so the higher up you go the wider the rack needs to be.  In the case of the 620, the bottom of the lower lower controls are approximately 16.125 inches wide.  Well I am getting a rack that is 16.5 inches wide, so that means it is .375 inches wider than the lower control arm axis,  If you split the difference between the left and right side, dive that .375 by two, which gives you .1875. 

 

Now a bit of trigonometry.  The angle if you connect the upper and lower control arms axises is approx 63 degrees.  So Tan 63 degrees = Y/.1875 or  1.96 x .1875 or .367 or bit less than 3/8 of an inch. 

 

Keep in mind you're not done yet.  You still have to take into consideration the height from the lower outer ball joint axis to the axis of the outer balljoint on the spindle.  That height needs to be .367 as well.

 

Now the front to back setup I'm not sure about.  It takes a bit more measuring that I haven't done yet, but I see OEM racks setup a couple inches either to far forward or backward so I don't think it is so critical.  I think you lose a bit of linearity towards the end of the travel, but I don't anybody would notice it.

 

 

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That's awesome. How much travel does it have?

 

So the rack moves back and forth?

 

I don't know, and I don't have it here with me to check.  Yeah, you mount the two ends and the whole center moves back and forth.  IIRC it was for used briefly for an offroad vehicle or sandrail.  I think icehouse got one as well when I showed it to him (from a guy on ebay a few years ago).  I had gotten it for my 510, so it's a rear steer.

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The one for a chevelle might work, but you would have to give Flaming River a call and see if they would sell it seperate from the crossmember.  Using a rear steer is possible, but you have to take into account how steep an angle you get with the rack being that close.

 

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That design just changed the game. 

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