skyblue Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Mine was column auto. I used the experimental engineering crossmember and all holes lined up. But I will say the instructions did mention that in '71 there was a variation in the holes that in some cases would require drilling new holes. I guess I got lucky. Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted September 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 So I ended up using the cross member from the auto trans as it was the cleanest, the front most threaded holes in the body lined up with the rear most slots in the member, so I just drilled through the body for the other two and got some stainless M10 bolts nuts and lock washers and that's that! Sorry for lack of oics but today the shifter got bolted in, as did the drive shaft, started, slave, clutch line got bent into place, clutch hydros got filled and bled.... And I drove it!! Got all the gears and the clutch feels good (though the pedal doesn't extend very far, not that I'm complaining). Have lots of little things to do still, reverse lights (2 wires on pass side of trans?), speedo cable, parking brake, fix brake fluid, coolant and fuel leaks, trim the tunnel hole nicely, get a shift boot and trim the carpet, blah blah blah the list goes on. Also said goodbye to the Corolla today. Gunna miss that car, but it will free up more money, and most importantly more time to put into the 510! :w00t: Cheers 4 Quote Link to comment
riaan140z Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Looked through the entire build, thumbs up hey.. You have to search far and wide in south africa to get a clean car like that.. all our datsuns are in rotten states.. butchered and accident damaged. Damn africans cant drive 2 Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted October 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 Small update. Been getting little things done, cars got all lights and both turn signals, reserve lights work but the switch on the trans is bad, speedo cables is working and sorta quiet, got a shift boot ordered, steering wheel hub adapter has been ordered too, gotta find a wheel now. Parking brake is close to working, have some adjusting to do. Need to address all the suspension creeks and knocks (too many to just focus on one lol). The carb is just awful as well, no choke so its a bitch to start and its got no quick acceleration dump and just bogs down. Also threw on my wipac fog lights that I had on my Mazda, I think they'll stay. Cheers 4 Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 1800 Dude woah. $1800? You sir were born under a lucky star. In new england that car would be 4-5k. COngrats! Read the whole thing. Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted October 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2015 Thanks fisch! This car needed so much work and there's still so much to do, but having got the car for a good price I know if I needed to sell it I wouldn't take a loss. Good to have that assurance. 1 Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted October 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Went for a cruise yesterday with some sweet old yotas 2 Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted October 6, 2015 Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Any plans on lowering it, think a drop would look killer on your dime. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Any plans on lowering it, think a drop would look killer on your dime. I think that is lowered... ^_^ Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 The s12 struts dropped the front about 2.5 inches. It will definitely go lower, but I need to get all the drive ability issues figured out, then the plan is to get wheels (14" Watanabes most likely) and then work on ride height. I would love to work on aesthetics, but priorities haha. 1 Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Any one have a dual dcoe manifold and linkage they'll ship to Canada? Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Well I bought these. NapZ manifold and linkage is for sale and I still need a mani for the L16! 4 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 Well I bought these. NapZ manifold and linkage is for sale How much? Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 Nice score, I saw those on Craigslist. Those napZ side draft manifolds are damn near impossible to find at this point. Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 How much? Open to offers, PM me! Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 13, 2015 Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 Those napZ side draft manifolds are damn near impossible to find at this point. Addendum, tough to find used. Super easy to buy new. ^_^ Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 Just ordered this sucker from Jam Engineering, they seemed to have the best price for a new kit (being a couldn't find a used one). I'm aware this is gunna be a lot of fuel for a stock L16. Looking into cam shafts as I want to pull the head off anyways. 1 Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Cars been using a ton of coolant and the rad looked like it was full of peanut butter so I ripped the head off tonight. I wanted to take it off anyways before I put the new manifold on, to replace all studs, the gasket and also fix the exhaust leak at the bottom of the exhaust manifold. Tear down started :sick: Bet ya can't guess where the exhaust leak was lol Not what I was really hoping to find, gasket looks pretty new and no signs of leaks Did however find some rust on this passage on the manifold side. Looks like it may have been leaking pretty good, leaking down onto the exhaust manifold and evaporating and that's why I didn't notice it?? :confused: So that's where I am now. Going to get a gasket set tomorrow morning and start cleaning parts. I was losing a significant amount of coolant, never notices any smoke and the tops of the pistons don't look washed out and the gaskets mint. Besides that intake cooling passage I guess another source could be cracked head? I had been topping it up with just water, but I wouldn't figure it would create that much gunk. Might as well drop it off at the machine shop to get it cleaned and pressure tested. Anyone that has experience with this please chime in :angel: Cheers 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 ck the spark plugs and see if there are really clean. then you know the water is getting sucked in. or figure where its at. when going to sidedrafts I use a 1/4 pipe plug(its not really 1/4 its the tool size) and its tapered and put it in fluch and never leaks water again. But colder climites might be a issue or cars getting cold. rad looked like it was full of peanut butter??????????? rusted like that means someone hasn't been changing out the antifreeze use lots of antiseize on the exhaust bolts on the Y pipe. if they didn't break already. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 If you are losing coolant and it's not going into the cylinders, then it's either going into the oil or leaking outside of the engine.. in which case you would definitely smell it. That is unless you are running straight water. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Id pull that water pump to see if that timming cover water pump area is pitted bad. Then you know Bad antifreeze Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 It was leaking good so I was topping it up with just water so I figure thats why its full of "peanut butter". Hainz do you mean put pipe plugs in the 2 water passages in the head? Just the gasket wont be good enough? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I seen both ways. I used the plugs so I don't have to worry about it again. One can buy the later U67 or some Jap W53s that didn't have the water passages holes also, and use it with sidedrafts. If running a stock or weber DGV I like the heater passages to keep the carb warm in winter as the air vol is more on a smaller carb. On sidedraft the air vol is slower but I usually don't run my 510 when it gets REALl cold but usually don't have proplems so its more a pre planning issue when doing this from the start but if its all you got then try the gasket first . I drill me head from scratch as it was a no hole head. But I was told on the heads that have the holes you don't need to drill as its close to the threaded size neede to run the tap thru. But is must be a short flat tip as the tap goes thruit will bottom out on the back side. so you go the run the tap then put the plug in then run the tap again until the plug is flush as the plug is slightly tapered so you don't want to over torq it as it expands and can maybe crack the hole. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Gasket looks damaged at #3 cylinder...? Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 I seen both ways. I used the plugs so I don't have to worry about it again. I'm all for not fixing things twice so I went and picked up a couple. They're not the fancy Russel ones they're just brass with a slot head. Thanks for the tips hainz! Gasket looks damaged at #3 cylinder...? Head gasket? Not that I could tell Quote Link to comment
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