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A10's U-nite !!!!


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Mike, thanks for the cut and dry no bs answer. That's what I was looking for.

 

Except one thing... I had a 4 speed a10.

 

I'm not too keen on identifying a trans, so I'm unsure which trans I had, therefore I'm unsure which one would e a replacement that could bolt to the KA and be the same length as the original 4spd

 

Is there a trans that is the same length as the a10's 4 speed that will bolt to a KA?

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I'm guessing your 4 speed is just like my 710 4 speed at 26"? Look for a 720 2wd shorty from behind a Z24. This is a 71B and will stand up to a KA

 

71B 'shorty'

trannyFS5W71Bshort0ne.jpg

 

51.5" regular. The difference is in the tail length

CopyofF4W71Bfrom75620005Large.jpg

 

Pictures are for length comparison only. Some may have noticed the top one has an L series 'bell' on it and the bottom one is a 4 speed, but both are 71B transmissions.

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996IDY_James_Rebhorn_002.jpg

 

Well, that's not entirely true....

 

This would assume that the transmission mount location for the old 4 speed and the new 71B are in the exact same place or that the automatic cross member will work. I doubt it. My 710 swap needed the mount to be lower.

 

On my 710 the only difference between auto and manual cross members was the bolt in position on the body. There are three holes for mounting the X member on the body and only two holes on the X member. This allows it to be mover forward for the auto and back for the standard.

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If the 4 speed in your A10 is the tiny square pan one,, one good yank into second with good traction and that much torque from the dual cam ,,,, you would be walking...but since you can't change bellhousing you won't be abe to use it anyway.

 

i made a couple rattle with just a 1600 rev-d far to high,  and fat tires.

 

 

better have a few back-ups

 

datsun522331.jpg

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finally got some new headlights in on my 79 along with getting the stock stereo working afer i pulled it out when i got it and two new speakers(bose outdoor porch speakers B) ) When i bought it pretty much most of the heater levers and shit was unhooked and so i got the heat working great too.

having the wiring diagram for this car is saving me haha

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4-spd and 5-spd are the same length. However driveshaft length changed mid-run so perhaps transmission length changed then.

 

It changed July '79. As the US changed to the Z20 and Canada kept the L20B for '80 it's not motor related also the diff ratio changed in the States but stayed the same in Canada so not that.

 

The transmission changed to a Z series bolt pattern but I checked the mainshaft part numbers for the 4 and 5 speeds... they are the same so have to be the same length and spline. 

 

As the drive shaft changed July '79 and Canada kept the same drive train through '80 but also got the 'new' driveshaft' I would guess they would interchange and it might be something like the U joint changed.

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That's all that changed.  My 78, 80, and 81 sedan 4-speed driveshafts were the exact same length, but the 80 and 81 had "non replaceable" staked-in U-joints, whereas the '78 has c-clips and the joints can be changed.  I've never had a 79 so don't know there, though I've probably used 79 junkyard shafts.

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alright guys i have a question that dosnt have to do with a datsun, but it is a mechanical question. you guys seem to be a lot more open and more experienced then my lil brothers forum. so he drives a volvo 240 wagon, its a manual, his battery died the other night. he jumped it with his girlfriends car, came back to life after a good charge. But sense then it has been having a very odd idling problem, almost sounds like its not firing on a cylinder or two. also its got a whoooole lot more back pressure now, like the pop corn shit when its down revving. i told him to replace his spark plugs as my two cents. it didnt do anything. he took it to a volvo specialist, the same one he always goes to, they say that its a combination of his o2 sensor not being plugged in (CEL) and his exhaust not being fully bolted in.... the thing is though is that he hasnt had the o2 sensor or exhaust "fully" bolted up for months now, and it jkust started happening after her jumped the car. 

Do you guys have any idea what might cause this? i figured i would ask you guys. thanks. 

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Its an early 80s car-so no adaptive learning or other BS.

 

I would hook up the o2 sensor. There is zero advantage in it being unplugged.

 

How did the plugs look? White/crusty? Black/wet/sludgy?

 

 

Suck, squish, bang, blow. Whats missing?

Im guessing the MAF is having a hard time working.

 

 

With a vague description its anybody's guess.

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Lol no shit its the wrong section, i asked here cause these are the guys i usualy talk to when im on.

 

i havnt had time to get under the hood myself, so thats about as good of a description as i can give from sitting shotgun.

 

o2 sensor is unplugged because he is straight piped exhaust amd his sensor plugs straight into his stock exhaust. so he cant plug it in till he ghetto fabs a hole in his echaust to plug it in.

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Fly by wire.. :rofl:

 

 

Anyway,,,,,,  have you tested the battery for 12 volts? and about 14 volts running? is the car a CIS or electronic ?. You don't give year, but electronic needs full power all the time to run right. CIS can kinda cope with less till it gets to low to spin very high pressure pump.. (but it still doesn't like it)

 

Have you tried switching to a known good battery,, not just one "good enough" to start car?

 

Have you guys test pump pressure,, or changed fuel filters?

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