l20b : timing question

[damninhell]

I wanted to change the head gasket without removing the front cover, is there any way this can be done ?

I have seen and heard of people doing this by sticking piece of wood next to the chain but I don't no exactly how is it done.

 

 

Can someone guide me step-by-step on how to do this?

how long would this method take?

[damninhell]

here's a picture's of what i mean:

[Silky_Johnson]

here's a picture's of what i mean:

 

What are the specs on this LZ?

 

Never mind. This isn't your engine, is it?

 

http://community.rat...ng-chain-wedge/

 

http://community.rat...lve-stem-seals/

 

A lot of guys use different things to wedge the tensioner, for example, pvc pipe, hammer handle, shaved piece of 2x4. Or you could just buy one for an L engine. http://www.amazon.co...s=nissan timing

[datzenmike]

A fold of garden hose too.

[Eagle_Adam]

or you could buy the right tool for the job - $9 delivered

 

 

 

 

found here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWERBUILT-648831-TIMING-CHAIN-HOLDING-TOOL-NISSAN-/281007462624?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item416d5998e0&vxp=mtr

 

 

ill never use anything else

[Silky_Johnson]

^^^ This is what I use. And that's a good picture of what we're talking about. The picture that damninhell provided shows the wrong kind of wedge. You don't need to wedge the chain against the block - you just need to keep the tensioner from popping out.

[kelowg]

If using tool above, strongly recommend putting clean shop rag around tool.

Otherwise it tends to slip and let chain lossen up. I hammered tool in good and tight, worked perfect

[Eagle_Adam]

Good point ^

[H5WAGON]

What style is your 79...?

 

I have a 2dr hatchback.

 

Pic.... :poke:

 

 

Also mark your chain, so when you put it back together, you know you have it one the right tooth of the timing gear.(just in case cam rotates a bit)

 

Follow torque sequence and settings......also removal sequence.

[damninhell]

that's great, this wedge well save me allot of time. This is a great community, the response time is ridiculously fast.

Any others tips you guys want to share.

Also what amount of torque do I tighten the head bolts?

[banzai510(hainz)]

Beautiful photo Eagle Adam!!!!!!!!

 

we assume your going to loosen everythign up then put motor on TDC before pulling head.

 

How Long it takes.

2 to 4 hours or till the car is SOLD as is after a chain drop

[damninhell]

What style is your 79...?

 

I have a 2dr hatchback.

 

Pic.... :poke:

 

 

Also mark your chain, so when you put it back together, you know you have it one the right tooth of the timing gear.(just in case cam rotates a bit)

 

Follow torque sequence and settings......also removal sequence.

I have a four door that i just bought about a moth ago it had a bad clutch and an overheats.

I changed the clutch and slave clutch cylinder.

 

For the overheating issue I change the thermostat housing which had been rusted through pretty bad.

Also changed the water pump, hose and installed an aluminum radiator w/ an electric fan that I bought here, its actually for a honda civic.

Filled the Rad with water plus added water wetter, but my temperature still seems high, its steadys about 4mm before Hot on the meter.

After i added the water wetter and took of my thermostat and take a little longer to get there, but it does, is that normal?

 

I take some picks and post them up

[damninhell]

Beautiful photo Eagle Adam!!!!!!!!

 

we assume your going to loosen everythign up then put motor on TDC before pulling head.

 

How Long it takes.

2 to 4 hours or till the car is SOLD as is after a chain drop

lol I can fix the chain drop, but I'm looking for a shortcut. BTW, I ordered that retention tool, thanks for the link.

[damninhell]

got her for $400

 

 

 

thermostat housing:

 

does any one know where i can get the driver side's vent:

[Eagle_Adam]

put up and add in the "parts wanted" section

[ggzilla]

Wait, your engine runs hot. So why are you changing the head gasket? Why not just fix the overheating problem?

[bilzbobaggins]

to get a L series timing wedge for free, go to amazon here http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648831-Nissan-Timing-Holding/dp/B0002Q8TV4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354922982&sr=8-1&keywords=l+series+timing+wedge.

 

 

I got mine free. All you have to do is sign up for their "credit card". Once approved, you get a $10 gift card for amazon. I ordered my tool (just under 10 clams shipped), then canceled their card that night.

 

 

Bam, free tool. Working a fucked up system of credit.

 

Jeff

[datzenmike]

For the overheating issue I change the thermostat housing which had been rusted through pretty bad.

Also changed the water pump, hose and installed an aluminum radiator w/ an electric fan that I bought here, its actually for a honda civic.

Filled the Rad with water plus added water wetter, but my temperature still seems high, its steadys about 4mm before Hot on the meter.

After i added the water wetter and took of my thermostat and take a little longer to get there, but it does, is that normal?

 

I take some picks and post them up

 

 

First, is this the stock meter or some wacky after market thing? I've seen people chase an overheating problem that didn't even exist. Borrow an infrared heat gun and 'shoot' the thermostat outlet. If 180-190 or so it's fine no matter what the gauge may be telling you.

 

Did you replace the thermostat????

 

When does it run that high on the gauge, on the highway or idling around town, or all the time?

 

From the looks of the thermostat housing your cooling system looks like it was under stress. What's that yellow stuff???

[datsunaholic]

 

From the looks of the thermostat housing your cooling system looks like it was under stress. What's that yellow stuff???

 

Probably a bunch of bars-leak or some other leak quick-fix. Which, if the car truly is overheating, would be because it plugged up everything.

 

Pulling the head, if it doesn't have a coolant leak, isn't going to solve an overheating issue. Maybe cause one if not reinstalled properly.

 

You need to figure out why (if it really is) running hot. In my experience blown head gaskets do not cause engines to run hot- in fact, they run COLD until the water level drops below minimal, THEN they run hot. But they're then producing steam. Either out the tailpipe or into the oil, or blowing it out the overflow. Now, running hot can cause a blown head gasket. That is true. From warping the head.

 

But no leak, then pulling the head will have no effect on the overheating. If you aren't losing water out the tailpipe or into the oil, or blowing combustion gases into the coolant (which shows up as an eruption of coolant even when cold due to overpressure) this fixes nothing.

 

This looks like someone chasing a problem with parts rather than diagnosing the problem and fixing that. Overheating can be caused by a lot of things, some of which aren't even cooling related (like having the timing wrong- both too advanced and too retarded can cause overheating). Most common problems are a stuck or incorrectly installed thermostat or a plugged radiator.

 

So, you put a Honda radiator in. With electric fans, and a shiny water pump. Now you have totally non-stock and likely non-correct parts. I see no fan- a pusher fan between the grille and radiator is the least effective way of cooling the radiator, because the fan (and more importantly, the fan shroud) blocks airflow. Cooling systems are supposed to draw air through, not push it through. It'll work, sometimes, with the right components.

 

But, I'm not going on a big limb here when I say the most likely problem is the system is badly plugged up from having it full of some sort of radiator stop-leak in it. But I also hope that terminal corrosion of the thermostat cover isn't in every other aluminum part of the engine, because that looks REALLY bad. I've never seen a thermo cover that far gone.

[bananahamuck]

 

 

 

 

Maybe it`s over heating because there`s no fan??

 

 

 

Why buy when you can make for almost free ,,the dimensions are in most good repair manuals. and the wood is less slippery.

 

 

[ggzilla]

Bling, Dogg, its got no bling

[damninhell]

Probably a bunch of bars-leak or some other leak quick-fix. Which, if the car truly is overheating, would be because it plugged up everything.

 

Pulling the head, if it doesn't have a coolant leak, isn't going to solve an overheating issue. Maybe cause one if not reinstalled properly.

 

You need to figure out why (if it really is) running hot. In my experience blown head gaskets do not cause engines to run hot- in fact, they run COLD until the water level drops below minimal, THEN they run hot. But they're then producing steam. Either out the tailpipe or into the oil, or blowing it out the overflow. Now, running hot can cause a blown head gasket. That is true. From warping the head.

 

But no leak, then pulling the head will have no effect on the overheating. If you aren't losing water out the tailpipe or into the oil, or blowing combustion gases into the coolant (which shows up as an eruption of coolant even when cold due to overpressure) this fixes nothing.

 

This looks like someone chasing a problem with parts rather than diagnosing the problem and fixing that. Overheating can be caused by a lot of things, some of which aren't even cooling related (like having the timing wrong- both too advanced and too retarded can cause overheating). Most common problems are a stuck or incorrectly installed thermostat or a plugged radiator.

 

So, you put a Honda radiator in. With electric fans, and a shiny water pump. Now you have totally non-stock and likely non-correct parts. I see no fan- a pusher fan between the grille and radiator is the least effective way of cooling the radiator, because the fan (and more importantly, the fan shroud) blocks airflow. Cooling systems are supposed to draw air through, not push it through. It'll work, sometimes, with the right components.

 

But, I'm not going on a big limb here when I say the most likely problem is the system is badly plugged up from having it full of some sort of radiator stop-leak in it. But I also hope that terminal corrosion of the thermostat cover isn't in every other aluminum part of the engine, because that looks REALLY bad. I've never seen a thermo cover that far gone.

i just got back from a 4 hours drive, doesn't overheat. It does have a pusher fan and I don't think it makes that much of a difference wether its push or pull. The older was also corroded and squealed when rotated, so it was bad, since I installed the new one temps improved. I'm no longer going to replace the headgasket but I am still adjusting the timing, there's stil a backfiring that I have to fix and If you're right it might improve my temps even further.

 

I'm using the stock gauge.

[DanielC]

I've never seen a thermo cover that far gone.

 

I found this on my project truck.

[ggzilla]

Yay, fixed it without doing unnecesary work. Good job!

[datzenmike]

The corrosion was from running without anti freeze coolant mix and or not changing it every few years. That rad looks smaller than the stock one.

 

Push or pull fan driving out on the highway you don't even need a fan as there's enough air from vehicle motion. If it was running hot on the highway it isn't the fan.