Charlie69 Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Congrats and thank you for your service!!! Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Wow how did I miss this. Very very nice truck I hope your coming to JCCS this year and nissan Jam that truck is first place all the way,I need to step my game up. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted April 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 I'd like to attend JCCS, I'll be up near Sacramento starting in July. Honestly, I've learned a lot from the first build, basically paying others to do the work. After the past few weeks sitting in the rain, and also the fact that the truck is near the ocean, it's starting to show rust along the cargo hooks and under the rim of the bed line. That coupled with a few other dings from being towed, and at the mechanics shop, I'm pretty much decided this is going to be a work truck with a nice interior. I'll circle back and start re-working a lot of the stuff like electrical, the interior crap, better tail lights etc. At least I have a decent truck to work with. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Update: I traded my project C truck (the red one) to a friend Manny in exchange for work on this truck that got missed in the build. For example, painting the frame, fixing some of the electrical connections, rehabilitating and installing the JDM style tail lights/brackets, fabricating a glove box and parcel tray, replacing the aluminum brake lines, and fabricating transmission mounts for a 5 speed. Here are a few photos of some of the work that's underway. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted August 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2014 http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g326/rocket_dog58/imagejpg1_zps44afef37.jpg 1 Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted November 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 I haven't posted in awhile. This one is in the road, starting to earn it's keep. I've made three trips so far from Oxnard to Sacramento. The only issue was the truck running hot when I was pulling the trailer. Oddly enough it did the grapevine climb just fine, but on the long interstate 5 haul it would run a little hot. Two issues fixed, the lower bracket on the alternator was loose and the thermostat was also stuck (gunked up). Did a flush, replaced thermostat. The radiator might be gunked, as recommended here in another thread, I will try some CLR to clean it out but will probably buy an aluminum radiator. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted November 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 3 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 I love it when a Datsun truck earns it's keep. Briefly, try to flush it again. This is what I do to flush my 521. Remove the radiator, and the thermostat, put the thermostat cover and upper radiator hose back on. Put the lower radiator hose back on, and push a garden hose inside the lower radiator hose, do not turn on the water yet. Remove the block water jacket drain plug, above the starter. Get an air hose, with a nozzle, close to the starter side of the truck. Now turn on the water. Put your finger over the block drain hole. When water starts coming out of the upper radiator hose, blow compressed air into the block drain. Keep repeating the filling of the engine with water, and then blowing air into the block drain hole until the water stays clean. You may have to repeat this many times. Do the same with the radiator. I would get a thermostat from your local Nissan dealer. They will cost more than a chain auto parts store thermostat, but Nissan parts are much higher quality. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Man that looks good!!!!!!!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted November 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 I love it when a Datsun truck earns it's keep. Briefly, try to flush it again. This is what I do to flush my 521. Remove the radiator, and the thermostat, put the thermostat cover and upper radiator hose back on. Put the lower radiator hose back on, and push a garden hose inside the lower radiator hose, do not turn on the water yet. Remove the block water jacket drain plug, above the starter. Get an air hose, with a nozzle, close to the starter side of the truck. Now turn on the water. Put your finger over the block drain hole. When water starts coming out of the upper radiator hose, blow compressed air into the block drain. Keep repeating the filling of the engine with water, and then blowing air into the block drain hole until the water stays clean. You may have to repeat this many times. Do the same with the radiator. I would get a thermostat from your local Nissan dealer. They will cost more than a chain auto parts store thermostat, but Nissan parts are much higher quality. Is this the block water jacket drain plug you referred to or is it only where the heater port is connected? 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Rocketdog if you do as DanielC suggests on flushing your engine get a length of 1 3\8" hose long enough to get the flushed water away from any of your painted surfaces as it might stain the beautiful yellow. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 The truck looks nice :thumbup: I would not buy the aluminum radiator, I would have your stock one re-cored, it may be more expensive, but I believe it will last way longer. 2 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 I have only L-16, and L-18 engines, but the plug is on the block, not the head. The plug has a 14MM head, and will be tight. By flushing this way, you stir up a lot of sediment that settles around the number 4 cylinder, because it is farthest away from the water pump flow. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted November 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 Thanks very much guys. Related topic, the water pump. I bought a new water pump for an 84 L20 motor and what I learned is it came with a fan clutch attached. I don't believe there's enough clearance to install the water pump, so I want to install an L16 water pump instead. Any problem with installing an L16 water pump on an L20 engine? 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 It will fit fine. The fan is different of course. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 I didn't know there was an 84 L20, is the year a mistake? 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 L20s were made past 1980 in Austraila. the L16 pump you need a 510 521 pulley and Fan blade. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted November 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 I got the L20 from a wrecking yard, it's probably not an 84. I'll get the numbers off the engine so I know for certain. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted November 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 L20s were made past 1980 in Austraila. the L16 pump you need a 510 521 pulley and Fan blade. The fan blade in there now has 7 blades. I'm sure the pump is off an L16, can't say about the pulley. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 never heard of a 7 blade L16 fan before maybe if it had a fan clutch option.(Rockauto has fan clutch L16) all I seen were the 4 blade 510/521s 1 Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted November 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 never heard of a 7 blade L16 fan before maybe if it had a fan clutch option.(Rockauto has fan clutch L16) all I seen were the 4 blade 510/521s I think that's the fan that came on the stock L20 engine when it was in a 720 series truck. I also believe the water pump is either an L16 pump or an L20 water pump with the fan clutch removed - if there is even a difference between the two. It works, is protected by a fan shroud, so I probably won't mess with the fan. I'll have the radiator rebuilt and maybe replace the water pump. I have two tech manuals that describe the PCV and "emission" systems for the 521 L16 and the 720 L20 engines. I get lost in all the terms and need pictures to sort of align the two designs to make sure I have the PCV routed correctly. It's complicated (a little) by the fact that I have a weber with it's custom air filter instead of the stock Nissan air cleaner. Somewhere on the forum is a template to make the stock air cleaner fit on the weber, maybe then connecting all the hoses will be more straight forward. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 Check this out rocketdog. ORANGE = Valve Cover Vent Tube RED = PCV Tube http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30394-l20-block-breather-tube-question/ Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Greetings. This truck is my daily driver, although there remains more work to be done. I just completed my 3rd round trip between Sacramento and Ventura, CA. Runs good, temps are okay, but I'm worried about a few things. I would sum it up by saying the fundamentals of the truck are good, but that 10% across the board of other things like: - minor shorts in the electrical system - too much (?) oil vapor out from the fill cap on the valve cover - interior stuff like making a glove box and parcel tray I'm comfortable tooling around the Sacramento area in the truck but will probably shy away from anymore long trips until I am more confident about getting other issues resolved. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 - minor shorts in the electrical system Go through electrical and make necessary repairs. - too much (?) oil vapor out from the fill cap on the valve cover Is your PCV valve setup like the picture above? Is your PCV valve stuck? Are your piston rings worn? - interior stuff like making a glove box and parcel tray I have a glove box liner you may have just pay the shipping. Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 - minor shorts in the electrical system Go through electrical and make necessary repairs. - too much (?) oil vapor out from the fill cap on the valve cover Is your PCV valve setup like the picture above? Is your PCV valve stuck? Are your piston rings worn? - interior stuff like making a glove box and parcel tray I have a glove box liner you may have just pay the shipping. Electrical, yes in the short term that's what I'm doing. Longer term I want to remake the harness. The PCV is brand new and the lines are routed correctly to the evap tank in the truck bed. I'm unclear if this being an L20 motor means the layout of the tubing should be different? I have a glove box liner, but it's really shot. 40+ year old pressboard, or whatever they made that from. I'll PM you about your glove box liner. 1 Quote Link to comment
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