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Rear fender pull / roll / trim on '68 510 sedan?


AZhitman

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Hey guys - Getting my 510 reassembled, and considering making a little more room for more tire. However, the body / paintwork is already done, and the inner fender lip on the sedan seems pretty beefy. I've got a fender roller, but I wanted to see what everyone else has done on theirs before i go bending s*** and making a mess.

 

Suggestions / experience?

 

Thanks all!

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On the 510 there is a ridge inside the rear wheel well above the fender lip. This bulges inward and can be a clearance issue as well. I flattened mine out on my racecar with a scissor jack and a hammer. That was after getting hit by a Chevy Monza. I didn't have to worry about the paint at that point so my procedure was pretty crude.

 

The biggest trick with finished bodywork is to use a heat gun to warm the paint and make it more flexable. Not too much heat, you don't want to lift or burn the paint.

 

Most of the guys that rent out fender rollers ship them with a heat gun or suggest using one to help keep from damaging the paint.

 

Good luck.

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^ Thx, but that doesn't help me any.

 

I'm pretty adept with a fender roller (I have an Eastwood unit), but the 510 sedan rear fender is a different beast.

 

Anyone have any other experience with doing it successfully?

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  • 2 weeks later...

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Tell me the offsets, wheel size, tire size, and rear camber correction mods, if any ... .. and I can tell you if you even need to roll the fenders

 

....... I've used a baseball bat before, or floor jack handle ........ I've also made a small score with a cut off wheel,,, but that's looked down upon .... :lol:

 

Not like my cars have good paint,,,, but I HATE the pulled fender look ..... . and it doesn't take much to tweak the whole rear quarter even with a mild roll

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Everything's put together - I don't currently *need* a roll. However, I'd like to go about 5-10mm wider in the rear track.

 

Like I said, I know how to roll fenders, I own a roller - I'm just asking if anyone's tackled rolling the double-walled lip, and if so, how they went about it. The steel seems pretty damn thick back there.

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Is this a 4dr?? ..... 2dr's don't have that extra metal in the arches ...... . . . I've never rolled a 4dr ,,, but I have tried to remove the "bump" just above the inner fender lips, on my red 4dr .... to tuck the extra 10mm

 

..... and failed miserably,, bendeing and warping the rear quarter panel ....... .. because that "bump" is the rear door jam,,, and alot of overlapping structural seams

 

You can fit a 16x8 +10 and 215/40 rear tires about 2mm away from that bump:

 

5911996090_672a1e248a_o.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

Hey so on my 2 door, I've done a HEALTHY roll on all of my fenders with a roller and heat gun, they turned out perfect but I'm having rub issues on the "ridge" or "bump" you guys are referring to up inside the rear fender. How are you guys flattening that thing out? Or is there some other way to get rid of it without jacking up the quarter?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had a guy do mine cuz I was scared to crack the paint 

he used a heat gun carefully but it softens the paint and maybe slightly the metal 

do baby steps a little at a time 

this guy had done alot and it took him at least 2 hours for both sides 

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RL]photobucket-4135-1349239050834.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Question for you experienced long time owners

 

My car had metal flares/roll done way back when, but left the that 90 degree bump on the Inner side fender. So I cut it out.:) behind that was my outer "new" metal flare. My question is do you guys think I need to weld up/ fill that gap? or since there was metal construction done to build the flares out that seam sealer would be enough? to me(IMO) it's looks and feels super solid.

Thanks

Maybe should've started a separate thread? Sorry if I hijacked.

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