Rear fender pull / roll / trim on '68 510 sedan?

[macgyver]

Just wondering, I'm guessing that piece is structural?

[Just Joel]

Just about everything in a unibody is :p but seriously, it's probably less structure than just fill and finish ;) more than likely you could get away with simple seam sealer and under coat assuming the hole is flush and tight enough to do so. Pics?

[macgyver]

That's what I thought as well, and that's exactly what I did. Can't even tell I cut it out ESP since the previous owner did a nice job on the flares. I'll snap a pic next time I have the wheels off. I just don't want to have any flex in the rear quarters that I hear people have had. My case might be a little different since it didn't have stock rear quarters as a starting point.

[housew]

You can fit a 16x8 +10 and 215/40 rear tires about 2mm away from that bump:

 

indy, is that fitment with or without a roll and with the bump?

 

your saying i shouldn't even try to tackle the bump correct? That would be FINE by me if i could fit 16x8 and 215s, pretty much exactly what i want.

[HAM8URGER]

I rolled my rears with a heat gun and a roller. Rolled completely flat and didnt crack the paint or bend the fender. 

 

 

But with 15x7 0 offset and 195/50/15's it was still rubbing the "ridge" when slammed. You can see what im talking about in this pic.

 

 

So i carefully beat the shit out of it with a big hammer. NOTE: make sure when using this method to hit the hammer face squarely against the "ridge"

 

 

now I can drive hard at this ride height without any rub

[HAM8URGER]

actually the car is now lower than what is pictured^ and still no rub

[HAM8URGER]

with the heat gun and roller we had maybe 10 min on each fender... hammer took 3-5 min per fender

[INDY510]

indy, is that fitment with or without a roll and with the bump?

 

your saying i shouldn't even try to tackle the bump correct? That would be FINE by me if i could fit 16x8 and 215s, pretty much exactly what i want.

That's with heavily rolled fenders, and a big hammer to the "bump"

 

That "bump" is the rear door jam, so I don't recommend cutting it open. Unless you're good at welding thin metal, without warping the quarter panel, and can still make the door shut:

 

 

 

[INDY510]

Spudly13 cut it open for tire clearance:

 

 

 

 

[housew]

alright. so im going to roll my fenders in the near future.

 

for the bump, some "precise pounding" should take care of it?

 

the bump is the door jam in a 4 door correct? So if i take a hammer to it, I will be eating into the space behind the door that im guessing is outbound of the seal so it will still close if i don't pound too much. BUT it will be decently ugly / rough with the door open?

 

Im not bad at welding thin metal, and my car will probably get paint at some point in the not so distant future (maybe this summer, most likely over next winter when its off the road) so if the cut and fill method is a lot cleaner i might be in for that. Really just looking to do the mods before i buy wheels so i don't have to buy them multiple times.

[INDY510]

you don't have to do any mods, except roll the fenders, unless you want a lower offset than 16x8 +10 .... the car above has 15x9's, I think

 

better to get the wheels, and tires, and then do the necessary mods to make them fit

[housew]

so 16x8 +10 should fit a 4 door with just an agressive roll?

 

im looking at some 16x8 diamond racing steelies from a 240sx, my eyeball says they are probably +20ish and the guy doesn't know. Im hoping to check them out, and measure them this weekend. If the offset is more positive than i need, i can always add spacers to bring em out so they don't hit the control arm / body

[datsunfreak]

But with 15x7 0 offset and 195/50/15's it was still rubbing the "ridge" when slammed. You can see what im talking about in this pic.

 

So i carefully beat the shit out of it with a big hammer. NOTE: make sure when using this method to hit the hammer face squarely against the "ridge"

 

now I can drive hard at this ride height without any rub

 

 

FWIW, mine never rubbed with the exact same setup. Could be a variance from car to car I guess? I just rolled the lips...

 

[HAM8URGER]

Yeah I don't know what to tell you. Maybe you are right. How low did you drop yours? You can see where mine was rubbing. All I know is that at the ride height in my pictures, Troy Ermish coils with 220 lb springs, 15x7 0 offset and 195/50/15 tires, mine rubbed like a biatch

[datsunfreak]

you don't have to do any mods, except roll the fenders, unless you want a lower offset than 16x8 +10 .... 

 

 

so 16x8 +10 should fit a 4 door with just an agressive roll?

 

 

To echo this statement, this is a 16x8 +15 with a 215/40-16. Just rolled lips, never even came close to rubbing the inner bump. At least 6-8mm off the inner lip. Not super low, but it was softly sprung, so if it was gonna rub, it would have. A lot.   B)

 

[datsunfreak]

How low did you drop yours? 

 

No idea.   :rofl:

 

But from the pics, I'd say roughly 1" less than you did. I was tucking about half the tire static. 

[HAM8URGER]

Yeah I don't know. What's your explanation for it?

[datsunfreak]

Yeah I don't know. What's your explanation for it?

 

I now don't actually think mine had that inner lip.   :rofl:

 

I don't recall seeing it on any of my 2drs. But hell, since it didn't rub, I never really looked to see if it was there...   ^_^

 

 

And since I rolled my lips with a baseball bat, I may have pushed that lip in a bit too?   :confused:

[AZhitman]

I'm pretty amazed at some of the wheel specs some folks are claiming to run in this thread.

 

I trimmed the piss out of my fender lip with a plasma cutter, then smoothed it so it's about 2mm inboard of the outer fender surface, and an envelope snags when sliding it between tire and lip (static).  I'm not rubbing, but it's super-close throughout suspension compression.

 

I'm running 205/50/15's on 15x7.5 Panasports, 2* camber.

 

OICS: http://forums.nicoclub.com/update-on-betty-our-68-510-t585920.html

[datsunfreak]

I'm pretty amazed at some of the wheel specs some folks are claiming to run in this thread.

 

I trimmed the piss out of my fender lip with a plasma cutter, then smoothed it so it's about 2mm inboard of the outer fender surface, and an envelope snags when sliding it between tire and lip (static).  I'm not rubbing, but it's super-close throughout suspension compression.

 

But based on your pics, it appears you have done something to make the rear alignment adjustable, and have dialed out some of the negative camber? We didn't.   B)

 

[AZhitman]

Nope.  Stock crossmember and control arms.  I didn't even slot 'em.

[datsunfreak]

Do you know the offset on those? I didn't even know Panasport ever made a 1pc 7.5" wheel. 

[AZhitman]

My bad - Too many cars/wheels to keep track of.  15x7 +22 with a 5mm spacer F/R.

 

Do you know the offset on those? I didn't even know Panasport ever made a 1pc 7.5" wheel. 

[datsunfreak]

My bad - Too many cars/wheels to keep track of.  15x7 +22 with a 5mm spacer F/R.

 

Well there you go. Your tire should be in roughly the same spot as mine.  :thumbup:

 

And give or take a few millimeters, it is. When I was running a 15x7 +0 with a 195/50-15 it didn't rub, but I also could wedge a business card between the lip and tire.  :rofl:

[HAM8URGER]

I'm pretty amazed at some of the wheel specs some folks are claiming to run in this thread.

 

I trimmed the piss out of my fender lip with a plasma cutter, then smoothed it so it's about 2mm inboard of the outer fender surface, and an envelope snags when sliding it between tire and lip (static).  I'm not rubbing, but it's super-close throughout suspension compression.

 

I'm running 205/50/15's on 15x7.5 Panasports, 2* camber.

 

OICS: http://forums.nicoclub.com/update-on-betty-our-68-510-t585920.html

hey I'm from the PHX area! Where abouts are you?