Cpl620 Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 are you just running the log headers? Yeah im just useing the stock logs. Any manifold I run will have to be modded if you see the clearance im dealing with, ill post it later. The only other option is reverse the the manifolds to run it like a single front mount turbo and turn it down the passenger side. But I already got the parts for the exhaust coming. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 What if you move the column to the left a bit? Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Then it wont be in line with the seat, and I cany move the seat closer to the door. I rather have my pedals offset a bit than my wheel. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Most steering wheels are offset anyway. Left hand for the wheel and the right for the shifter. Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Wait what? Thats news to me. Sounds like a bunch of witchcraft. In other news, dropped her off tonight at a local shop to get some brake lines made. I dont feel like spending $500 to get good tools to straighten, flare, and bend stainless that ill use a hand full of times. Probably have her back by the end of the week. Gives me time to get stuff donw around the house... 1 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 In other news, dropped her off tonight at a local shop to get some brake lines made. Cheater :poke: Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Cheater Poor broke bastard :poke: fixed im actually going to go there tomorrow and ask him if I can just rent his equipment if he's going to really charge me $93 a damn hour for labor.....on a truck that's basically bare frame....am i unreasonable or do you shop guys think that's pretty messed up? Quote Link to comment
twistedimages Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Our shop rate is $80 an hour for custom work, but of course that will vary depending on your area. If it's a bare frame he's working with, the hourly rate won't change but the number of hours should be fewer... I'd see if he can quote you for the job, rather than hourly- puts the burden on him to quote accurately and work efficiently. Good luck! I'm not looking forward to the brake lines on my car, either. 1 Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 he said 4, maybe 5 hours. i dont have too much of a problem with the rate at 4 hours. but at 5 or 6 hours, i could just spend the money to buy my own tools. Quote Link to comment
twistedimages Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 It's worth talking to him. I know we've dropped our rate or underbid a job before- usually if it's something unique or cool to work on, or an opportunity to design a new product. This guy may do the same, if he digs your build.... Never hurts to ask! 1 Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 yeah so screw that noise. i decided to do it my self with some cheap ass tools. Brake lines MOFO! and whats next?!?! exhaust! it seems so close until i remember that i have to wire the whole damn thing and then tune it. and im official broke, i wanted it done by the end of summer, that may be on hold. anywho, im not doing the last two lines yet because i may have to scoot the pedal box back another inch or two so the wheel does not hit the lines off the masters. SUCH a huge pain in the ass to go from 3/16 & 10mm to 1/4 line, dont ever do it......EVER. the right fittings dont exist and your project will looks like a tongue punched fart box. now to please all you OIC whores... 5 Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 This is amazing 2 Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Frame is 100% done now. No more flex in the front towers, the suspension actually works now. Mount the steering wheel and pedals tomorrow finally. Then run those last two brake lines. Maybe start the exhaust tomorrow too. i want to do the seat brackets, but i need to put the new tunnel back in for support before i do that. on a last note, these are probably the nastiest weld i have done so far on this thing. hahaha, fk it, the dash will cover them. 2 Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 I love this build. 1 Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Haha, thanks man. Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted August 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 personally, this fab work inside makes me cringe. just getting that out of the way. this will be redone when i go to do the role cage, which probably wont be until next summer. for now, it "works." Spent most of the day getting the final mounting position right and then finished up the brake lines. i wanted to fill them up and see how hard the pedal feel was, but ill wait until i get her closer to running. tacked the manifold on to some plate to keep it straight while i cut it up. my only option to make it past the steering column is to do a center back manifold. ill start that tomorrow, as well as the rest of the exhaust. 2 Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 epic build keep it up only issue i see with the in cab fab is the welds dont look the best 1 Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted August 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 Yeah, thats what bugs me, but its all going to be covered by the dash so im ok with it...I guess. Ill just keep telling my self that. Haha Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 as long as you have good penetration why does it matter Quote Link to comment
finney Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 what about using some log headers? most toyota pickup guys use them. i used them to clear my steering on my 2x4 4runner on pickup chassis Quote Link to comment
turboHLS30 Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 Wow, I love it man! You're fabs skills are great! What are you majoring in for school? I'm just getting into college and putting my projects on hold for now while I'm in school. I don't see how you can balance a build of this scale AND school! Anyway, keep up the work, can't wait to see it moving under it's own power. :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 as long as you have good penetration why does it matter It's a pride thing. Just knowing I have an ugly weld on something bugs me, whether it will be seen by people or not. 2 Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 what about using some log headers? most toyota pickup guys use them. i used them to clear my steering on my 2x4 4runner on pickup chassis this is why i cant. the steering column is right under the exhaust port in the first pic Wow, I love it man! You're fabs skills are great! What are you majoring in for school? I'm just getting into college and putting my projects on hold for now while I'm in school. I don't see how you can balance a build of this scale AND school! Anyway, keep up the work, can't wait to see it moving under it's own power. :thumbup: Thanks man, im an Architecture major. prior to that i was a mechanic for jet engines. It's a pride thing. Just knowing I have an ugly weld on something bugs me, whether it will be seen by people or not. this right here. just like this make shift manifold. i have a high standard, and when i cant meet it, it makes me a sad panda. this manifold kicked my butt today, thats about all i got done. at least header wrap will go over this one.... lol the exhaust should be fun though. question: should i make the trans tunnel bigger to tuck the exhaust, or should i run it bellow the bracing? it will be about an inch lower than the frame, and probably scrape where ever i go... 2 Quote Link to comment
'70dime Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 this may have been addressed earlier but are the manifolds "flippable?" like LS mani's? Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Well you could reverse them but then I would be in a pickle. I bought material for boing both sides rather than combining them for a single pipe back. I would need a bigger dia. 1 Quote Link to comment
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