Noob joining your ranks! Just picked up my first Datsun

[Odinie]

your bushings are probably shot on the shifter. and they do have long throws lol but with a little work, you can shorten the throw

 

Ok, thanks for the tip!

[wayno]

Thanks. I try to have a vision before I just go and buy something. Sometimes those change. :)

 

Unfortunately that glove box door is just a knob that was added. I thought it was factory though, until the owner said he put it in.

 

99.99% of the 521s that came into this country came with knobs on the glove box door, as well as a nonlocking gas filler doors, there is a guy selling the glove box door lock assembly on ratsun, but there are a couple guys that have issues with the guy, I have bought 3 or 4 small things from him including the lock assembly for the glove box with no issues, but it took about 3 weeks for my parts to arrive, I thought that was fast considering I waited 3 months for a kingpin kit that went by ship for minimal shipping cost.

[jon521]

Awesome. I totally saw your truck whilst lurking around on this site. I wish mine was your color and my bed was as straight as yours. Very nice!

 

 

thanks! i want the stock wheels and caps like yours has, but with white wall tires.

[flatcat19]

Way to go Newb.

Pics.

An awesome truck.

A great write up.

 

Welcome to Ratsun MuthaFucka!

 

I love seeing 521's show up here.

 

Enjoi the show.

Looking forward to more!

[Odinie]

So I went to my local Pick N Pull to see what the inventory looked like for L20B engines. There was a 200SX, but it appeared to have the Z20E or Z22E instead of the L20B. I found one 1975 620, but I couldn't find where it said 2000cc or L20B, or anything like that. All I saw was a tag on the hood that said Engine Family: TL200C. The engine displacement on the tag looks like 2000cc. I forgot to check the mileage. It also included a pretty crisp feeling 5 speed, as well as the rear differential.

 

 

It looks pretty complete...

 

 

 

 

I also found a plethora of Hardbody D21s and one 720 with disc brakes. I'll have to look into the kits that Beebani sells to see which is the right kit for me, and what exact parts I need from the trucks in the yard. I'm a little confused about which one is the best for my needs. I'll have to PM him and get the low down. I admit that I know hardly anything about suspension. I'm thinking if I do a conversion that gets rid of the torsion bars, it'll make whatever engine swap I do a lot easier.

[flatcat19]

So I went to my local Pick N Pull to see what the inventory looked like for L20B engines. There was a 200SX, but it appeared to have the Z20E or Z22E instead of the L20B. I found one 1975 620, but I couldn't find where it said 2000cc or L20B, or anything like that. All I saw was a tag on the hood that said Engine Family: TL200C. The engine displacement on the tag looks like 2000cc. I forgot to check the mileage. It also included a pretty crisp feeling 5 speed, as well as the rear differential.

 

 

It looks pretty complete...

 

 

 

 

I also found a plethora of Hardbody D21s and one 720 with disc brakes. I'll have to look into the kits that Beebani sells to see which is the right kit for me, and what exact parts I need from the trucks in the yard. I'm a little confused about which one is the best for my needs. I'll have to PM him and get the low down. I admit that I know hardly anything about suspension. I'm thinking if I do a conversion that gets rid of the torsion bars, it'll make whatever engine swap I do a lot easier.

 

On that sticker, it says L20B.

But that does not mean it has an L20B in it.

 

How to identify L series motors:

On the passenger side, between #3 and #4 spark plugs, on the block itself is a small area where they list block(L16, L18, L20B).

 

ALSO...on the L20b's, on the timing cover, just below rocker cover are some bolts facing radiator.

L16 and L18 will have 2. L20B's will have 4.

There are lots of differences, these are just the easiest.

 

That motor looks like an L20B to me.

 

Now for the head:

Between #1 and #2 spark plugs, on the head, nearest head gasket is a 3 digit alphanumeric code(210, W53, A87, U67, W58, and a few oddball others.)

[Odinie]

On that sticker, it says L20B.

But that does not mean it has an L20B in it.

 

How to identify L series motors:

On the passenger side, between #3 and #4 spark plugs, on the block itself is a small area where they list block(L16, L18, L20B).

 

ALSO...on the L20b's, on the timing cover, just below rocker cover are some bolts facing radiator.

L16 and L18 will have 2. L20B's will have 4.

There are lots of differences, these are just the easiest.

 

That motor looks like an L20B to me.

 

Now for the head:

Between #1 and #2 spark plugs, on the head, nearest head gasket is a 3 digit alphanumeric code(210, W53, A87, U67, W58, and a few oddball others.)

 

Doh! I thought I looked everywhere on that sticker. Ok, awesome. I'll go back and check the head, etc. Thanks!

[Str8_69]

Aww, dude, that's perfect. Exactly what I want. What size rims are those? I think mine are smaller. I do like my OG rims, so I think I'll keep them for the time being, and see if I can find a tire with a slightly taller sidewall, and maybe some older looking tread.

 

 

EDIT: Oh, and yeah, I'm keeping those guards, but that rear bumper is coming off tomorrow!

 

 

14" Wheels w/195's.

[Odinie]

Ok, I'm looking at the head right now. It says A87. Is that a good one? Lol.

[flatcat19]

Ok, I'm looking at the head right now. It says A87. Is that a good one? Lol.

 

Depends on what you're aiming for.

Open or closed, there is nothing wrong with an A87

 

Make sure what block it is too.

A87's mainly made appearances on L18's.

With having the valve cover at least painted, someone put at least a small amount of effort towards that truck/car.

 

It is possible the head got swapped to the L20B.

Which could mean it is a peanut.

Won't know until head is pulled.

 

Verify block.

Buy it up.

[Odinie]

Depends on what you're aiming for.

Open or closed, there is nothing wrong with an A87

 

Make sure what block it is too.

A87's mainly made appearances on L18's.

With having the valve cover at least painted, someone put at least a small amount of effort towards that truck/car.

 

It is possible the head got swapped to the L20B.

Which could mean it is a peanut.

Won't know until head is pulled.

 

Verify block.

Buy it up.

 

 

Ok, so here's the deal. Pick and pull pricing shows about $180 for the long block, and about $120 for the transmission. I'm sure the extra things like, carb, alt, water pump, etc will all add up as well. For that price is it better to find an L20B from somebody local, or will it still be cheaper in the long run to get this motor? Also, when I pull the head on the engine, is there anything I should do to prevent doing damage to it? I'm not sure if there are parts internally that may get messed up if I don't disassemble it properly. Obviously I don't want to make more work for myself if I do decide to buy it if there are peanut heads on it. Know what I mean?

 

Also, what accessories should I take from the engine, and what things should I leave that I may not need anyway? I'm thinking some things like water pump, and alternator I may want to leave and just buy a replacements instead. Should I keep the carb from it, or just buy a weber somewhere else, etc?

 

Thanks for the help!

[Z chopper]

snag the whole thing, ya the carb could be left but it might be in great working condition with a little cleaning.

 

can always ask at your PnP about the extra stuff like carb etc.., if they would charge you more or if it is included in the price since it is part of the engine imho

[wayno]

Here are the two flat spots just below the head mating surface between #3 and #4 cylinders on the block.

It would be best to find a L20b if possible, there are other blocks that can be used such as the Z22 in the early 720 truck, but it is way more complicated http://community.ratsun.net/topic/31213-waynos-lz22/.

This is my 521 kingcab sitting on a 1981-82 datsun 720 kingcab diesel frame, and it has a aftermarket stepside box that was put on the chevy luv trucks, so I am not sure if the 720 KC frame would work for you, you would have to do some measuring, here is the build thread for this truck. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/22928-1969-datsun-kingcab-project/page__view__findpost__p__375219__hl__wayno__fromsearch__1

I find it is much easier to put the cab onto the 720 frame to get all that I want, which is a kingcab with power steering and power front disc brakes, but there is a lot involved in a conversion like this(not counting the KC extension), it doesn't happen in a weekend, but parts are a lot more accessable for the 720 frame, and I do not need to change the length of the frame, so the drive train is intacked, but that is with the cab extension. You would need to measure the standerd cab frame to see if it is close enough to the 521 frame to make the swap. As you can see the front wheels don't stick out of the fenders, but I am running stock 1979 620 wheels with caps.

I also used the 720 wiring harness(with all componets) with the 720 tilt column in my 521 conversion, it was easy except for the instrument cluster. I have done most all of the stuff you would ever want to do to a stock 521 frame/drivetrain except for the power brakes, I have a LZ23 with dual SU type side draft carbs with extensive head work, a L block type truck short shaft 5 speed(shifter comes out stock shifter hole), I have 620 type disc brakes with power steering, it has the 720 tilt column with all the componets working except the 4 way flashers. it is also a flatbed dually. I would never do this again to a 521 frame.

[flatcat19]

Ok, so here's the deal. Pick and pull pricing shows about $180 for the long block, and about $120 for the transmission. I'm sure the extra things like, carb, alt, water pump, etc will all add up as well. For that price is it better to find an L20B from somebody local, or will it still be cheaper in the long run to get this motor? Also, when I pull the head on the engine, is there anything I should do to prevent doing damage to it? I'm not sure if there are parts internally that may get messed up if I don't disassemble it properly. Obviously I don't want to make more work for myself if I do decide to buy it if there are peanut heads on it. Know what I mean?

 

Also, what accessories should I take from the engine, and what things should I leave that I may not need anyway? I'm thinking some things like water pump, and alternator I may want to leave and just buy a replacements instead. Should I keep the carb from it, or just buy a weber somewhere else, etc?

 

Thanks for the help!

 

From my thinking-$180 would include all.

But you don't need everything from the motor, so it doesn't matter.

You'll want an exhaust manifold from an L18 or L16 anyways.

Snag the intake from that L20B, and go buy a Weber 38/38.

 

It should already have the electronic dizzy, so grab the coil and as much harness as possible.

 

Now if you're just trying to get the head...

Disconnect the exhaust below the head.

Remove all bolts. Lift it out.

Now that it is out, remove manifolds now. Much easier.

When transporting, put head in a box or burlap bag.

You do not want the head getting gouged while moving around.

 

Just do what you can. And enjoy.

:D

[mrbigtanker]

Really nice truck

[Odinie]

Sweet. Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll confirm the block and heads and then go for the pull if everything looks good. I'm also going to call the PnP and se what the entire engine consists of, and if they'll let me slide a bit if I take it as a complete set.

 

On another note, I did the TR3 polish today. Stoked with the results! I need to get some of the compound out of the jams, but other than that, it's looking sick. I hope the finish lasts a while as it took about 4-5 hours to do.

 

 

 

 

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

[flatcat19]

Your truck looks amazing.

[Odinie]

Your truck looks amazing.

 

Thanks dude! I owe it all to the TR3. Stuff works great, and if you take your time, you get some awesome results. Highly recommended!

[thisismatt]

Nice truck. Paying a little more for a clean body is definitely not overpaying. Well worth it in the long run!

[Odinie]

So I broke out the timing gun on the existing motor today, and my initial suspicions were correct. The timing is off and appears to be WAY too advanced. Like, off the charts. I would have fixed that, but the marks aren't labeled. I assume that the mark closest to the indicator is -5, and then goes by 5 degree increments, but I didn't want to assume. If anybody can confirm, that would be awesome.

 

Then I noticed that the distributor is moved to full retard, probably to compensate for this. I'm wondering where things went wrong last time this was worked on. Do you think the distributor was removed, and then reinstalled in an improper orientation?

 

 

Here's a crappy cell pic.

 

I also checked the compression on the L16, which was at 120psi on each cylinder give or take 1-2. It seems lowish, but I'm not sure what these generally run.

[Odinie]

Or, conversely, am I reading this from the wrong direction, and the engine is too retarded? That would also probably make me kind of retarded, as well.

[Odinie]

Ok, I had another look, and in fact the timing is coming from the other direction. Initially I couldn't see any indication of a 0 degree mark, but it's far to the left. It's bigger and longer than the rest of them.

 

I tried to adjust my timing, by my distributor is also maxed out. Any ideas about where to start?

 

Another crappy cell pic of the distributor settings.

[Z chopper]

did you use a buffer or was it done by hand?

[flatcat19]

Is it a 'Matchbox' dizzy?

It could have been installed wrong.

 

There are lots of write-ups about how to install a matchbox.

Start with that before going anywhere else.

[Odinie]

did you use a buffer or was it done by hand?

 

I did it by hand. A buffer would have been nice...

 

It was pretty easy though, all things considered. Just make sure the compound fully dries before wiping off. That makes the most difference.