Jump to content

Noob joining your ranks! Just picked up my first Datsun


Odinie

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

 

So my search for a good cruising/work truck kind of started and ended with the Datsun 521. I was considering a VW Rabbit diesel pickup (Caddy) at one point, but I came full circle back to to the Datsun because it just has more personality, and I think I can still get fairly good mileage with it when I'm done.

 

After looking for about a month, I ventured about 220 miles from Chico, CA to the Medford Oregon area to check on a promising prospect. Some stats:

  • Original owner
  • 96k Original Miles
  • Garaged all its life
  • Driven often
  • "Everything working"
  • Leaking rear main (Going to swap engine/tranny anyway)
  • CD Player
  • Original windshield washer bag! :)

I got there around 6pm last night with $2300 in hand. It turned out to be what I hoped. Hardly any rust, and something I can restore if I feel like it. I might have overpaid a bit, but having something that I wouldn't have to do tons of body work on was worth it to me.

 

 

Loaded up last night, ready to go home

Datsun_001.JPG

 

 

 

I took some more shots in front of my 'workshop' today.

Datsun_002.JPG

 

 

 

Datsun_003.JPG

 

 

 

Datsun_004.JPG

 

 

 

Datsun_005.JPG

 

 

 

Datsun_006.jpg

 

 

 

Datsun_007.JPG

 

 

 

Datsun_008.jpg

 

 

 

Datsun_009.jpg

 

 

 

Datsun_010.jpg

 

 

So far, the plans are as follows:

  • Disc brakes
  • Engine swap with 5 speed (l20b most likely. I'm considering a KA or even a VG (maybe) if I think I can swing it. I'm not going to carelessly start something without knowing that I can finish it)
  • Reupholster bench seat
  • New door panels
  • Change random rubber seals here and there
  • Change gearing for freeway usage
  • Drop about 2". I want it to look a bit more old school. I want to haul stuff if I need, but not deal with airbags, etc.

Right now, I'm debating on what's the best way to achieve the above. While seemingly daunting, my gut says a frame swap with a D21 or D22 might be the best way to accomplish the above and have a sweet daily driver with the greatest long term ease. I'll be honest, this is my first project, but I feel that I'm smart enough to do all of my homework before I rush into anything. I also have some friends that I can tap for help. I've been looking around here and there on Ratsun and other sites for ways people have done the above, but if you know of any good threads, I'm all ears!

 

Looking forward to learning from you all!!

  • Like 4
Link to comment
  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

you guys will love the torque of the l20 over the l16! i do, i just wish i had the 5 speed

 

Sweet. I think a strong L20b with a 5 speed might be the way to go for now. I can rebuild it and drive this while I do the work. Then install it and see how I like it. That'll give me time to do more research on a more advanced swap.

Link to comment

Thanks! Are you doing a thread on the swap? I'd like to see some pics.

 

 

 

 

ive only just started. i havent even pulled my engine yet, that will be next week.

http://community.rat...-l20b-5-speeed/

 

here is my truck

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/32940-1971-521/

 

this is the one i read before i decided to do the swap. it is very informational and very helpful

http://community.rat...0b-swapperoooo/

Link to comment

ive only just started. i havent even pulled my engine yet, that will be next week.

http://community.rat...-l20b-5-speeed/

 

here is my truck

http://community.rat...32940-1971-521/

 

this is the one i read before i decided to do the swap. it is very informational and very helpful

http://community.rat...0b-swapperoooo/

 

Awesome. I totally saw your truck whilst lurking around on this site. I wish mine was your color and my bed was as straight as yours. Very nice!

Link to comment

No, why? I've read a ton of good stuff about it online. Anything I should beware of?

 

nothing to be aware of. it does work ok. but i find Meguires "ultimate compound" to work better. i have tried both back to back many times, and i get the same results. Meguires cleans and polishes faster and better. thats at home. at work when i detailed cars, i used moc chemicals. those are awesome!!! especially our bananna wax! and the waxer we have is killer!

Link to comment

Hey all,

 

  • Original owner
  • 96k Original Miles
  • Garaged all its life
  • Driven often
  • "Everything working"
  • Leaking rear main (Going to swap engine/tranny anyway)
  • CD Player
  • Original windshield washer bag! :)

I got there around 6pm last night with $2300 in hand. It turned out to be what I hoped. Hardly any rust, and something I can restore if I feel like it. I might have overpaid a bit, but having something that I wouldn't have to do tons of body work on was worth it to me.

 

 

.........

So far, the plans are as follows:

  • Disc brakes
  • Engine swap with 5 speed (l20b most likely. I'm considering a KA or even a VG (maybe) if I think I can swing it. I'm not going to carelessly start something without knowing that I can finish it)
  • Reupholster bench seat
  • New door panels
  • Change random rubber seals here and there
  • Change gearing for freeway usage
  • Drop about 2". I want it to look a bit more old school. I want to haul stuff if I need, but not deal with airbags, etc.

Right now, I'm debating on what's the best way to achieve the above. While seemingly daunting, my gut says a frame swap with a D21 or D22 might be the best way to accomplish the above and have a sweet daily driver with the greatest long term ease. I'll be honest, this is my first project, but I feel that I'm smart enough to do all of my homework before I rush into anything. I also have some friends that I can tap for help. I've been looking around here and there on Ratsun and other sites for ways people have done the above, but if you know of any good threads, I'm all ears!

 

Looking forward to learning from you all!!

 

Good noob post! Your goals are not unreasonable and you have managed to say everything I like to hear.

 

First the price. Always try to buy the most roadworthy vehicle you can. This includes low mileage, (not a deal breaker if not but good if it is) little rust damage, everything there no missing pieces, on the road being used daily, good body, paint and trim. Low mileage means there is a lot of use left in it. I will mention that the speedo only goes to 99,999 so it can have 196,000 or 396,000 mile on it. Not saying this is the case here at all as it looks so good. Rust damage and missing pieces means it wasn't looked after. On the road means that the brakes work and haven't rusted and seized up from disuse. The motor and tranny are holding water and oil and you can test drive it. Good body and paint means it was looked after too.

 

What his all means is you could have spent $1,000 less but you would need to spend $2,500 for body work and paint, $500 and up for brakes, missing parts, interior, drive train.... on and on. Only to get where you are now. Nice friggin' truck!

 

 

The leaking rear main could be only a pan gasket. Hell I've seen valve cover gaskets than drip down the back of the motor and look like it's from the rear seal. Pressure wash the area clean and check every day to be sure.

 

I would start with an L20B 5spd. swap first to get your feet wet and then move up. While the VG is nice the 521 has torsion bars that will be a nightmare to work around. I wouldn't want you to get discouraged. The L20B is identical to the L16 but is 3/4" taller. Back in the day I put an L20B in my '71 521, not to difficult and goes better.

 

The D21 is a lot wider than the 521 so the wheels will stick out a couple of inches on both sides. Best to wait for a while on this.

 

Change gearing for freeway usage...

 

Not really needed if you install a 5 spd. The overdrive will drop freeway RPMs by 12-25% depending on which five speed you get. This leaves the around town acceleration unchanged. Cake and eat it too! Now if one day you swap a KA into it then yes a lower rear end would be better.

Link to comment

Hey all,

 

While seemingly daunting, my gut says a frame swap with a D21 or D22 might be the best way to accomplish the above and have a sweet daily driver with the greatest long term ease. I'll be honest, this is my first project, but I feel that I'm smart enough to do all of my homework before I rush into anything. I also have some friends that I can tap for help. I've been looking around here and there on Ratsun and other sites for ways people have done the above, but if you know of any good threads, I'm all ears!

 

Looking forward to learning from you all!!

 

 

d21 track width is considerably wider than the 521 and I would also assume the frame is wider too, 720 frame swap would be a better idea just ask wayno. but there is nothing wrong with the 521 frame.

 

Beebani has an upper control arm kit whiich can be used in conjuction with d21 lower control arms and spindles giving you ball joint suspension instead of king pin and disk brakes instead of drum brakes.

Link to comment

Good noob post! Your goals are not unreasonable and you have managed to say everything I like to hear.

 

First the price. Always try to buy the most roadworthy vehicle you can. This includes low mileage, (not a deal breaker if not but good if it is) little rust damage, everything there no missing pieces, on the road being used daily, good body, paint and trim. Low mileage means there is a lot of use left in it. I will mention that the speedo only goes to 99,999 so it can have 196,000 or 396,000 mile on it. Not saying this is the case here at all as it looks so good. Rust damage and missing pieces means it wasn't looked after. On the road means that the brakes work and haven't rusted and seized up from disuse. The motor and tranny are holding water and oil and you can test drive it. Good body and paint means it was looked after too.

 

What his all means is you could have spent $1,000 less but you would need to spend $2,500 for body work and paint, $500 and up for brakes, missing parts, interior, drive train.... on and on. Only to get where you are now. Nice friggin' truck!

 

 

The leaking rear main could be only a pan gasket. Hell I've seen valve cover gaskets than drip down the back of the motor and look like it's from the rear seal. Pressure wash the area clean and check every day to be sure.

 

I would start with an L20B 5spd. swap first to get your feet wet and then move up. While the VG is nice the 521 has torsion bars that will be a nightmare to work around. I wouldn't want you to get discouraged. The L20B is identical to the L16 but is 3/4" taller. Back in the day I put an L20B in my '71 521, not to difficult and goes better.

 

The D21 is a lot wider than the 521 so the wheels will stick out a couple of inches on both sides. Best to wait for a while on this.

 

Change gearing for freeway usage...

 

Not really needed if you install a 5 spd. The overdrive will drop freeway RPMs by 12-25% depending on which five speed you get. This leaves the around town acceleration unchanged. Cake and eat it too! Now if one day you swap a KA into it then yes a lower rear end would be better.

 

Thanks for the detailed response. I feel like an idiot for thinking I could get a D21/22 frame under there. I keep forgetting how tiny these trucks are.

 

The more I think about it, the more sold I am on the L20B. From what I hear, they're stone cold reliable, economical, can make decent power, and if I can get the 5 speed for that freeway cruising, that'll be great too.

 

One question about the 4 speed that's in there currently vs the 5 speed. Does the 5 speed have a better shifter feel? The 4 speed I have right now has tons of side play and pretty dang long throws. I'm not trying to race it or anything, but it feels like I'm trying to feel my way around a bowl of soup with how the 4 speed shifts. I'm sure there are some shift kits for the 5 speeds to make them better.

 

Also, from your explanation, it looks like there are a few options for the 5 speeds. Which one gives me the best final drive ratio?

Link to comment

Great looking truck, and excellent to-do list, 2" drop is perfect for a driver, I just did mine 2" and I love it. Only 2 things I would add, 1) Lose that rear bumper; 2) Give me your front bumper guards :lol:

 

 

Sweet ride man, congrats and welcome.

 

 

 

Aww, dude, that's perfect. Exactly what I want. What size rims are those? I think mine are smaller. I do like my OG rims, so I think I'll keep them for the time being, and see if I can find a tire with a slightly taller sidewall, and maybe some older looking tread.

002.jpg

 

EDIT: Oh, and yeah, I'm keeping those guards, but that rear bumper is coming off tomorrow!

Link to comment

Excellent first post, a man with a plan, and photos to.:cool: Very nice truck, even has the stock locking gas cap door, very rare, looks like it could have the locking glovebox door also, can't tell for sure from these photos. Welcome to Ratsun

 

Thanks. I try to have a vision before I just go and buy something. Sometimes those change. :)

 

Unfortunately that glove box door is just a knob that was added. I thought it was factory though, until the owner said he put it in.

Link to comment

if motor is good just lower it and put a electronic ignition, call it good till it starts breaking down.

 

L20 is a very good upgrade but alot are cracking so ck the middle inbetween the water passage.

 

But if the L16 runs good just run it. I think I cant ake on a stock L20b EZ as my L16 has a 38/38 weber cam and matchported.high rev

 

 

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to check compression tomorrow and see. One thing I noticed is that when I start getting on it, it sputters slightly, shakes a bit, and sounds like some slight detonation might be going on. I'm going to check timing tomorrow as well. I looked for the timing marks today, but I didn't see them. I noticed the rough running when I bought it, but at the time I was certain I'd be doing some kind of swap soon, so I didn't care too much. Once I'm at a consistent speed, it smooths out.

 

 

Does the EI for the L16 also work on the L20 if I swap? I don't know why it wouldn't... I don't want to buy it twice.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.