Noob joining your ranks! Just picked up my first Datsun

[wayno]

I agree with datzenmike, take it back if you can. Did you get it from a ratsun member I hope, craigslist? I have yet to figure out where that trans. type FS5C71B quote came from, something must have been deleted.

[Odinie]

I agree with datzenmike, take it back if you can. Did you get it from a ratsun member I hope, craigslist? I have yet to figure out where that trans. type FS5C71B quote came from, something must have been deleted.

 

I got it off craigslist and the guy seemed nice enough. He wasn't trying to pressure me into a sale or anything. The only problem is he lives about three hours away so it'll be kind of a bitch to get it back to him. That is if he doesn't try to pull the whole "buyer beware" bit. What I'm guessing he'll do is try to settle instead for a partial refund and send the money back. Just out of curiosity, how much am I looking at if I have to fix it? I got the other half off the trans today and the bearing that seats on the case near the output shaft was seized. Some more fragments, and a pretty chipped up gear. Pics below:

 

You can barely see the chipped gear here. It's the single gear on the short shaft. My guess is it's for reverse, but I'm not positive.

 

 

This shows the bearing that's seized on the output shaft towards the end.

 

 

Anyways, thanks for the advice guys. I'll let you know what the guy says.

[wayno]

I was told I can buy the bearing/syncro kit for about $150. and some change, and I would do all the work, which is exceptable to me, as I have a freind that has done his, and would help me, and then I could do it myself from then on. To have a professional do it, I have not a clue. Around here we have 720s in the U-pull-it wrecking yards all the time, on a holiday you get 50 percent off most things, so I can get a tranny out the door for under a hundred with a guarantee of some sorts, and I can pull it apart before I leave the yard and check it. Fact is if your selling a tranny that one of the gears is seized, you would not want the new owner testing every gear, convenient that there was no shifter, but you could have used a big screwdriver or tire iron if you knew how. Get as much back as you can, and keep in mind that we all have been screwed buying car parts at one time or another.

[Odinie]

I've called and texted the guy, but no response yet. I'll check the local salvage yards and see what they have around these parts. Thanks!

[Odinie]

Ok, so today seemed promising. I went to the local pick and pull and it appears they have two FS5W71B (as far as I can tell) longshaft 5 speeds that I can pull, which run $99 each. Now that I have a POS transmission to trade in at least I won't have to pay the core charge. The last time I went there looking for a 5 speed they didn't have any Datsuns at all. I should have waited till they had a tranny I wanted, but alas I but this other stupid one instead. Oh well.

 

ANYWAY, what's cool is that one of the 5 speeds is in a 521. It appears that the guy got tired of blowing out the short shaft dog leg 5 speeds out and put in a long shaft for his work truck. This means that it's already mounted and has the shortened driveshaft with the sleeved output shaft. I'll measure this driveshaft to make sure, but I'm thinking it should be the right length which should be pretty nice. What I think it also means, is I can take the mounts (which are probably custom) from the longshaft 5 speed on the 521 and use them on mine as well. The 521 at the yard still has an L16 in it. Will that matter if I put an L20B in my truck and use the tranny mounts from the pick and pull trans? Or will the engine throw off the measurements? If I remember correctly the L20B is just taller, right?

 

Here are the pics:

 

Cool locking tool box on this bad boy. Somebody used it for work.

 

 

Sleeved output from 5 speed.

 

 

 

The best pic I could get of the trans and mounting. Too many nasty spider webs for me to get in any further. Gross...

 

 

 

The interior with the relocated hole for the shifter. Confirmed all 5 gears.

 

[wayno]

If it is a 5 speed in that 521, as you mentioned, you need to grab the 5 speed complete, with the throw out bearing arm and collar/bearing, even though you might not use it, the tranny mount off the frame, the driveline(the whole thing front to back), and you see how they moved the shifter hole plate back, you should do the same thing. This is a score, everything is done, just pull it out, and put it in. Now you will find out how easy or hard it is to get a longshaft out and put it back in yours. Did you read about the collars, you will need to find one for the L20b clutch cover you will be using. Make sure you get everything connected to that tranny, shifter,everything.

[wayno]

How is it these seats are so far back?

[Z chopper]

Cool locking tool box on this bad boy. Somebody used it for work.

 

 

 

 

that is cool looking, I'd snag that and build it up.

[wayno]

There are a few things you should grab if they are good and reasonably priced, the windshield if good, the front bumper if good, stock steering wheel if perfect and complete, rear veiw mirror if perfect, window roll up arms if not bent and perfect, check to make sure there are not any new seals anywhere on the truck, wingwindow, window channel felt, windshield rubber seal, door seals, ect. Some of that stuff is cheap in wrecking yards, and hard to find anywhere else.

[Odinie]

If it is a 5 speed in that 521, as you mentioned, you need to grab the 5 speed complete, with the throw out bearing arm and collar/bearing, even though you might not use it, the tranny mount off the frame, the driveline(the whole thing front to back), and you see how they moved the shifter hole plate back, you should do the same thing. This is a score, everything is done, just pull it out, and put it in. Now you will find out how easy or hard it is to get a longshaft out and put it back in yours. Did you read about the collars, you will need to find one for the L20b clutch cover you will be using. Make sure you get everything connected to that tranny, shifter,everything.

 

Yeah, it IS for sure a five speed. I cycled it through the entire range multiple times just to make, like, 110% sure. I'll definitely pull this 5 speed as well as the other one in the other truck. If they're the same, I may piece meal something together between the two, and if nothing else look at the internals and make a judgement call on which is the better version. The one in the 620 that was there seemed a bit smoother and crisper, but if the one in the 521 has been modified or a slightly different model, I'll stick with that one as long as it's clean inside. Do you think I need to grab the entire rear axel, or is it more of a precaution? The pick and pull has a 30 day money back warranty (which I'll explicitly verify tomorrow when I'm there) so I'll grab everything I can and take back what I don't need. I even had the evil idea to swap the internals of the two trannies and take back the one I pulled with the broken gears inside it, but that's a dick move.

 

 

 

There are a few things you should grab if they are good and reasonably priced, the windshield if good, the front bumper if good, stock steering wheel if perfect and complete, rear veiw mirror if perfect, window roll up arms if not bent and perfect, check to make sure there are not any new seals anywhere on the truck, wingwindow, window channel felt, windshield rubber seal, door seals, ect. Some of that stuff is cheap in wrecking yards, and hard to find anywhere else.

 

Awesome. I made a list of everything you mentioned and I'll check for it when I go back tomorrow. It's hard to tell from the image, but there is no front windshield glass. It looks like the truck sat in the rain for a long time. Everything in the interior is pretty rusted out. I'm missing a buckle for my passenger seatbelt and they were comepletely rusted out and stuck in this truck. This truck is gross. Rat shit everywhere inside of it. The whole nine yards.

 

Thanks for your help everybody!!!

[wayno]

I don't think you need the rear axle, but you should get the whole driveline, from the tranny to the rearend flange.

[Z chopper]

another thing to check is the grille, headlight surrounds and anything else in grille/headlight area

[Odinie]

I don't think you need the rear axle, but you should get the whole driveline, from the tranny to the rearend flange.

 

Roger that.

[Daner521]

Hmmm.

[Odinie]

Hmmm.

 

What think ye?

[Odinie]

All right. Today I went to the pick and pull and only grabbed a couple of items. I caught wind of a sale on Friday, so I only bought that which I really needed and will pick up the rest on Friday for a better deal. Today I got the trans mount and the drive shaft because those are things that are custom which I don't want getting nabbed. The engine in the truck has an L20B, so we are going to test compression on it and see if it's worth pulling as well. I have a line on a complete engine for $75 off craiglist with a Weber carb which sounds pretty sweet. Got pictures of it which I'll post below. I still have to verify with the seller that it's an L20B. I'm leaning towards running a U67 head for lighter compression which is also on the truck at the yard, so I may be pulling the head during the sale depending on what the engine on craigslist has.

 

First things first, here's a pic of the trans mount that was being used. I verified the length of the trans in the truck and it is indeed a long shaft.

 

 

Trans mount before removal:

 

 

 

Trans mount after removal

 

 

 

 

Trans mount

 

 

 

Another angle of the trans mount

 

 

If anybody would like to see more pics of the trans mount, I can take them tomorrow.

 

 

 

Here are the pics of the engine that the seller sent me in response to my wanted ad. Sorry for the low resolution. Only one image was hi res in the download. I think the inscription on the side of the motor says L20B, but he's going to call me and confirm.

 

 

 

 

[Guest kamakazi620]

 

Yeah, it IS for sure a five speed. I cycled it through the entire range multiple times just to make, like, 110% sure. I'll definitely pull this 5 speed as well as the other one in the other truck. If they're the same, I may piece meal something together between the two, and if nothing else look at the internals and make a judgement call on which is the better version. The one in the 620 that was there seemed a bit smoother and crisper, but if the one in the 521 has been modified or a slightly different model, I'll stick with that one as long as it's clean inside. Do you think I need to grab the entire rear axel, or is it more of a precaution? The pick and pull has a 30 day money back warranty (which I'll explicitly verify tomorrow when I'm there) so I'll grab everything I can and take back what I don't need. I even had the evil idea to swap the internals of the two trannies and take back the one I pulled with the broken gears inside it, but that's a dick move.

 

 

 

 

 

I dont think thats a Dick move the yards just Scrap your core anyway,What you want to give them a Good trans for core??

[Odinie]

I dont think thats a Dick move the yards just Scrap your core anyway,What you want to give them a Good trans for core??

 

No, I was talking about buying a good trans and taking it back with the bad internals from the trans I got shafted on from my craigslist deal. I get credit back and have the good internals on my existing trans. They would never know.

[wayno]

How is this connected together?

 

I am sure that tranny was riding pretty high with this mount setup, but if it works, it works.

Is this engine supposed to run? It has a weber and an electronic dizzy, guys around here including me have been paying $100.00 for an elec. dizzy, but you need the coil that goes with it if possible, otherwise you will need to buy one, check how many bolts are holding the flywheel on.

Does it have a W58 head on it? It looks like a L20b to me with a smog head. I ask again, does this run?

[Odinie]

The trans mount is held together by a bolt that goes through the top of the mount. It's a little janky. I think I may weld everything up for a little added strength. The trans didn't appear to be riding THAT high, but then again, what do I know? It was close to touching the floor boards in the cab, but not quite. I can mod the mount so it sits lower.

 

Running status is unknown on the engine, but I've never rebuilt one so I thought it would be a good project anyway. If nothing else, just take it apart, check specs, take my time, and do it right the first time through. I haven't completely decided on whether or not I'm going to keep the truck longer than a few years, but the process will be a learning experience.

 

If that's the smog head, I'll pull the one from the PnP and smuggle it away till the sale starts on Fri.

[wayno]

Check the casting number on the head between plugs 1 and 2 where the head sits on the block, I am almost positive it is a L20b from the case vent tube, but the electronic dizzy and the exhaust manifold header pipe connection make me think it is a smog head that has been capped off, I am thinking that the head has round exhaust ports, but I have been wrong before, and will be wrong again. Also check how many bolts hold the flywheel on, it should have six. I would buy it if you think it will run, but I have the funds for that type of thing, and you need a running engine, to bad you are not closer, I have a running L20b with a U67 head that I likely will never use.

[wayno]

When do you need this engine?

[Odinie]

When do you need this engine?

 

Thanks for the help. There's really no hard deadlines, but I'd like to get the project done in the next 30 days so I can bring all of the core parts back to the pick and pull and get my core deposits back for things like the driveline, etc. My brother is also going to be helping me and he's only in town for another month and a half or so.

 

Thanks for the offer on that L20B with head. It's good to have other options.

[bananahamuck]

How is this connected together?

 

I

 

If i could suggest one thing

 

...I would go to Harbor freight .OR welding store maybe , and get yourself an incline-o-meter thing. And after you get truck up on jackstands take the reading and write it down ,or take a picture of it ..Then when you put the new trans in you can cut / weld / whatever, this mount , until engine sits at the same angle as it did stock..

 

After you take reading you can`t raise or lower truck till done, ( just engine and trans ) or readings will be totally off..