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Noob joining your ranks! Just picked up my first Datsun


Odinie

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olddatsun.com has everthing you need to know.

 

goin buy the top photo it looks to far adv with the timming light

try the 8mm bolt thats upside down loosen it to readjust the timming plate fully the other way, then adjust the 10mm holddown bolt while using a timming light, The one with the funky ground tab you got on there.

 

olddatsuns.com has my timming chain vid has how to install a distributor slash oil pump

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olddatsun.com has everthing you need to know.

 

goin buy the top photo it looks to far adv with the timming light

try the 8mm bolt thats upside down loosen it to readjust the timming plate fully the other way, then adjust the 10mm holddown bolt while using a timming light, The one with the funky ground tab you got on there.

 

olddatsuns.com has my timming chain vid has how to install a distributor slash oil pump

 

 

Best videos on the internet to watch without taking your pants off.

 

Thanks for the site, but I can't find the videos. It looks like the site's been moved around a bit in the past few years. Some of the links got dropped. Are they on YouTube?

 

Thanks!

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olddatsun.com has everthing you need to know.

 

goin buy the top photo it looks to far adv with the timming light

try the 8mm bolt thats upside down loosen it to readjust the timming plate fully the other way, then adjust the 10mm holddown bolt while using a timming light, The one with the funky ground tab you got on there.

 

olddatsuns.com has my timming chain vid has how to install a distributor slash oil pump

 

I think part of the problem is the way it's set is retarding it as much as possible, but it's still not enough. I had everything pushed over as far as possible. It's like the distributor was installed in an improper orientation or something.

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like said loosen that 8mm bolt and that 10mm that holds it down and see if you can get it to RETARD.

I might be looking at it wrong but his is EZ to check.

 

 

set motor at TDC Zero on crank then takk the dizzy off and ck the spindal angle and see if 11.28. If not then it was installed wrong.

 

the olddatsun.com in the tech section its there to the You Tube link. Still works fine.

 

PS thats a nice truck hopefully you got a garage or a car port for it.

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like said loosen that 8mm bolt and that 10mm that holds it down and see if you can get it to RETARD.

I might be looking at it wrong but his is EZ to check.

 

 

set motor at TDC Zero on crank then takk the dizzy off and ck the spindal angle and see if 11.28. If not then it was installed wrong.

 

the olddatsun.com in the tech section its there to the You Tube link. Still works fine.

 

PS thats a nice truck hopefully you got a garage or a car port for it.

 

I know what you're saying. I initially tried that, but when I started turning the distributor the other way (with both the 8mm and 10mm bolts loosened) the timing got even further away from the marks shown in the picture.

 

Tomorrow, I'm going to set up motor at TDC like your vid shows, and verify the position of the spindle angle.

 

PS. Thanks for being patient. I've worked some on bikes, but these engines are different for me, and a little intimidating. I truly appreciate the help you guys!

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dude these motors are EZ esp the early L16s as there is not much for emissions on them

 

3 main things

1)mechanical timming,also valave lash

2 electrical timming, coil ignition ect....

3 fuel, carb

 

It will fire!!!!!

 

 

best up grade is to get a electric distributor(matchbox or a pertronix conversion)

 

 

I think you go directly to chapter 5 it might cover the Distributor part in short.

 

watch the fist part of chapter 1 and go to 5 I think it will cover it enough

 

 

Damn thats a nice truck for a new Cracker to have!!!!!!!take care of it.

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Ok, so I watched the videos last night, and rewatched them a bit this morning before jumping in. I set the engine to TDC, and when I pulled the distributor, I saw that the distributor drive is a few degrees off the other way of the mounting holes. I watched the vids, but I didn't see where I could go about fixing the drive back to it's proper place.

 

TDC just to confirm:

TimingProblems.jpg

 

Tweaked distributor drive. Angled to the left of the top hole, rather than just to the right like in the video.

TimingProblems2.jpg

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OK if you watched the full vid it shows me installing the oil pump.

 

Youll need a new gasket but dont let all the oil go out of the pump when you drop it down

Line up the dimple on distributor spindal to the pin oil hole on pump and re insert pump. if correct it will come out in the 11.28 position.

 

It might take a couple tries but youll get it and reset the dizzy and start up again.

 

Keep crank in the Zero Position.

 

 

 

So the privious owner has been driving this around with timming off???????

Only sometimes they do this if another Dizzy was installeds and it had the wrong distributor mount. Example there were 2 types of matchbox dizzys and they pull one and put on another mount. that where I see they should move it a tooth. But standard is 11.28 and use the dizzy with the smae mount it came with. otherwise they will work on any L motor.

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OK if you watched the full vid it shows me installing the oil pump.

 

Youll need a new gasket but dont let all the oil go out of the pump when you drop it down

Line up the dimple on distributor spindal to the pin oil hole on pump and re insert pump. if correct it will come out in the 11.28 position.

 

It might take a couple tries but youll get it and reset the dizzy and start up again.

 

Keep crank in the Zero Position.

 

 

 

So the privious owner has been driving this around with timming off???????

Only sometimes they do this if another Dizzy was installeds and it had the wrong distributor mount. Example there were 2 types of matchbox dizzys and they pull one and put on another mount. that where I see they should move it a tooth. But standard is 11.28 and use the dizzy with the smae mount it came with. otherwise they will work on any L motor.

 

Ok, awesome. It looks pretty straightforward. I think I may have fast forwarded last night because I didn't realize that the oil pump is involved with the timing. I was starting to get tired watching the videos around 2:00am last night. No fault of yours though. :) I'm going to tackle this tomorrow. Hopefully when this is all buttoned up, I'll have a smoother engine with a more power, and less pinging! Thanks a million for all the help!

 

Actually, I may not be able to tackle this tomorrow. Those gaskets are special order, huh?

 

As far as the PO is concerned, he seemed to take care of the small stuff himself like oil changes, etc, and then he had a guy do the tuneups. I can only imagine how much better this will run tomorrow.

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I found this kit for less. Still seems excessive though since I'm only using an oil pump seal.

 

http://compare.ebay.com/like/330605658832?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

 

As it stands, I keep waffling on the KA24DE or the L20B, so I'm not sure I want the whole kit when I may be getting a different motor anyway. Decisions, decisions....

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YOu have a O rileys near by????????

go to the o rileys website then enter your model rig example 71 datsun 521. once entered you can go to the blank box and enter Felpro. then a list of gaskets will come up oil pump will be one of them or a front cover set ect. it will show iteam and a photo and a UPC # you can print this or order on line or show your local O Rileys to order.

 

Napa should sell the oil pump gaskets separate also(I think). I think they sell Victor Renz.

 

But this is a EZ gasket to get.

 

 

Like I said ealier get the Gasketset at a later date but get them as you will use them later.

 

75 dollars sounds like a for a full set but is not needed right now.

 

Most likelly a front cover set would be good to have right now. But its up to you. Valve cover also.

 

Fel-Pro - Engine Conversion Gasket Set

Part # CS21178-3

23$

 

 

KA motor? Your kidding right?

Theres one in seattle for sale not running. Same color not running buy that and finnish it. bet you get it cheap

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YOu have a O rileys near by????????

go to the o rileys website then enter your model rig example 71 datsun 521. once entered you can go to the blank box and enter Felpro. then a list of gaskets will come up oil pump will be one of them or a front cover set ect. it will show iteam and a photo and a UPC # you can print this or order on line or show your local O Rileys to order.

 

Napa should sell the oil pump gaskets separate also(I think). I think they sell Victor Renz.

 

But this is a EZ gasket to get.

 

 

Like I said ealier get the Gasketset at a later date but get them as you will use them later.

 

75 dollars sounds like a for a full set but is not needed right now.

 

Most likelly a front cover set would be good to have right now. But its up to you. Valve cover also.

 

Fel-Pro - Engine Conversion Gasket Set

Part # CS21178-3

23$

 

 

KA motor? Your kidding right?

Theres one in seattle for sale not running. Same color not running buy that and finnish it. bet you get it cheap

 

I saw that one a while back. I used to live in Seattle, but now I'm in Chico. Otherwise I would have gone to check it out. I'm not 100% on KA, but I am thinking about it. 12 hours with a trailer both directions doesn't sound like a lot of fun to me.

 

I'll check those other retailers for the gaskets. Thanks!

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Forget about the KA or the 20 for right now.

You're seriously 20 minutes, and 20 bucks away from having a good running L16.

 

Agreed. The KA would have been the long term plan. I should have been more clear. Long term meaning, maybe in a year or two once I learn more and find the right engine to use.

 

The 20 would be more near in the future if I decided to go that way since I'm pretty confident that I could do that swap.

 

The L16 leaks oil right now from what appears to be the rear main, but like somebody already said, I still need to do my due diligence to make sure that's actually the source. If I love the L16 and can get it ship shape, I may just rock that for a while. The only thing I'm not sure about is the fading compression on my current block. 120 seems on the low side. I think I saw somewhere that they should have 150-170.

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