Jon's 521 L20b 5 speeed

[jon521]

will the l20b fit with no mods to the hood.i hear its longer and will not clear the hood.

 

 

i havent put my hood back on yet, but i have talked with .sunlover and he said its close but it clears. he is running a weber with the taller filter. i have the shorter filter, so it should be fine.

[albyneau]

so i would like your guys' opinions on something. Crackjack kindly threw in the 1 piece transmission plate with the A87 head i got from him. i used the 2 piece plate off my old 4 speed, but only the piece fits, the bottom piece would too work if i drilled new holes in it, before i got this new plate from him. the problem is that to put this new 1 piece plate on, i would have to unbolt the trans, take the clutch off, and take the flywheel off. SO should i just drill holes in the bottom piece to match or take everything down there apart again?

thanks

 

 

 

A LOT of trouble to disassemble just for that plate! Unless you're pumping a lot (relatively speaking) of power the additional strength gained from the 1-pc is negligible. Redrill the lower half, and save the 1-pc for your next clutch swap...

 

Scott

[albyneau]

 

BTW~ I just the other day read an independant lab results paper for gas-mizer gadgets, and those magnetic fluffies (like what appears above) actually COST an additional 2-3% fuel loss~ the HD ones were even worse! Or is that a pump...?

 

Fuel for thought....

[jon521]

BTW~ I just the other day read an independant lab results paper for gas-mizer gadgets, and those magnetic fluffies (like what appears above) actually COST an additional 2-3% fuel loss~ the HD ones were even worse! Or is that a pump...?

 

Fuel for thought....

 

im not exactly sure what your talking about, but i have a black electric fuel pump there, then my filter. are talking about my fuel pump?

[mrbigtanker]

i havent put my hood back on yet, but i have talked with .sunlover and he said its close but it clears. he is running a weber with the taller filter. i have the shorter filter, so it should be fine.

keep us posted please.i will be running side drafts but they where saying the valve cover hits the hood,so you would have to i guess notch the hood frame.

[jon521]

A LOT of trouble to disassemble just for that plate! Unless you're pumping a lot (relatively speaking) of power the additional strength gained from the 1-pc is negligible. Redrill the lower half, and save the 1-pc for your next clutch swap...

 

Scott

 

 

That makes sense, since i will have to do a clutch eventually......

[jon521]

keep us posted please.i will be running side drafts but they where saying the valve cover hits the hood,so you would have to i guess notch the hood frame.

 

 

will do. you can also ask .sunlover and hessianben because they both have L20bs in there 521s.

[.sunlover]

i havent put my hood back on yet, but i have talked with .sunlover and he said its close but it clears. he is running a weber with the taller filter. i have the shorter filter, so it should be fine.

 

true story, and my tall filter hasn't ever even tapped the hood when it's running either. New motor mounts though.

[.sunlover]

keep us posted please.i will be running side drafts but they where saying the valve cover hits the hood,so you would have to i guess notch the hood frame.

 

the side drafts don't raise the valve cover height, only risk is the filters hitting. there's threads about this, and which filters to use.

[wayno]

Everything is looking good guy, you have no worrys about the hood unless you do a body drop. The only thing I have heard about that I would do differantly is put the electric fuel pump back by the tank, I hear they(electric fuel pumps) push fuel better than they pull it, but that is what I have heard, have not looked into it further than that. Keep up the good work, your just like me when it comes to the engine bay, put the shiny engine into the black hole. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

[jon521]

Everything is looking good guy, you have no worrys about the hood unless you do a body drop. The only thing I have heard about that I would do differantly is put the electric fuel pump back by the tank, I hear they(electric fuel pumps) push fuel better than they pull it, but that is what I have heard, have not looked into it further than that. Keep up the good work, your just like me when it comes to the engine bay, put the shiny engine into the black hole. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

 

I was told the same thing about the fuel pump by a few other people, but i read through the paper that came with it and it said as long as its no more than 2 ft(or something like that) above the bottom of the tank, then it operates fine.

 

i dropped the mount off at my brothers last night, so hopefully i can get that back this week and maybe even drive it for my birthday!

[jon521]

one thing i noticed was the difference between the clutch forks on the old 4 speed and the 5 speed. at the bottom of the fork, where the slave cylinder pushes against the fork, on my old 4 speed there is a hole through it, so the slave push rod can go through the hole, allowing you to adjust the clutch when starting to wear out. on the 5 speed clutch fork, there is no hole for the slave push rod, but there is a dimple, so it can push it, but its non adjustable. are 5 speeds nonadjustable?

[mrbigtanker]

the side drafts don't raise the valve cover height, only risk is the filters hitting. there's threads about this, and which filters to use.

Thanks,i do know the carbs would be fine but it was the valve cover i was wondering about.and no body drops.

[crackerjack69]

one thing i noticed was the difference between the clutch forks on the old 4 speed and the 5 speed. at the bottom of the fork, where the slave cylinder pushes against the fork, on my old 4 speed there is a hole through it, so the slave push rod can go through the hole, allowing you to adjust the clutch when starting to wear out. on the 5 speed clutch fork, there is no hole for the slave push rod, but there is a dimple, so it can push it, but its non adjustable. are 5 speeds nonadjustable?

 

 

Hydraulic sytems adjust by pulling fluid from the reservoir. Example, brake pads wearing down.

[DanielC]

It has been a while since I looked at the clutch fork on my 521/L-18/long tail 5 speed.

I believe I used the original clutch fork, with a hole, but I also used a 200 MM clutch.

 

If I am not mistaken, I think the collar that holds the throwout bearing changes height with different diameters of clutch disk. The clutch fork may change to match the collar, I am not sure.

 

The 521 originally also had a spring between the clutch fork, and the slave cylinder. The spring retracted the cylinder, and kept the throwout bearing from contacting the pressure plate fingers, except when you put your foot on the clutch pedal. As the clutch disk wears, the position of the fingers on the pressure plate slowly gets higher, and uses up the free play between the throwout bearing, and the pressure plate fingers.

 

If you can, I would use the original clutch fork, with a through the hole adjustable slave cylinder pushrod, and the retracting spring, and most importantly, KEEP IT ADJUSTED PROPERLY!

(A little bit of freeplay before the throwout bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers)

 

I will try to crawl under my 521, and take a picture of the slave cylinder, soon.

[jon521]

It has been a while since I looked at the clutch fork on my 521/L-18/long tail 5 speed.

I believe I used the original clutch fork, with a hole, but I also used a 200 MM clutch.

 

If I am not mistaken, I think the collar that holds the throwout bearing changes height with different diameters of clutch disk. The clutch fork may change to match the collar, I am not sure.

 

The 521 originally also had a spring between the clutch fork, and the slave cylinder. The spring retracted the cylinder, and kept the throwout bearing from contacting the pressure plate fingers, except when you put your foot on the clutch pedal. As the clutch disk wears, the position of the fingers on the pressure plate slowly gets higher, and uses up the free play between the throwout bearing, and the pressure plate fingers.

 

If you can, I would use the original clutch fork, with a through the hole adjustable slave cylinder pushrod, and the retracting spring, and most importantly, KEEP IT ADJUSTED PROPERLY!

(A little bit of freeplay before the throwout bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers)

 

I will try to crawl under my 521, and take a picture of the slave cylinder, soon.

 

well i have the original clutch fork for the 5 speed in there, so i would have to unbolt the transmission and pull the throwout bearing and clutch fork out if i wanted to switch them. also, i dont remember having a spring on my slave pushrod.....all i have on the push rod is 2 nuts for adjustment, and the boot. also, i may need to buy a new one, as the push rod seems like its only held on there by the boot and it is easy to pull off......

[DanielC]

I got the picture.

Hope it helps.

[wayno]

You use the fork that goes with the transmission, you use the throwout bearing collar that goes with the clutch cover(pressure plate), the disc should match the clutch cover. The flywheel you use determines what clutch cover/disc you will be using. What ever flywheel/clutch cover you use, the throwout bearing collar needs to follow it, that is very important. You should also use the spring if that is what came with the tranny slave cylinder, but the modern 5 speeds did not have that spring, if it is almost falling out, it is ajusted wrong, there should be about a 16th inch play in the clutch slave.

[jon521]

You use the fork that goes with the transmission, you use the throwout bearing collar that goes with the clutch cover(pressure plate), the disc should match the clutch cover. The flywheel you use determines what clutch cover/disc you will be using. What ever flywheel/clutch cover you use, the throwout bearing collar needs to follow it, that is very important. You should also use the spring if that is what came with the tranny slave cylinder, but the modern 5 speeds did not have that spring, if it is almost falling out, it is ajusted wrong, there should be about a 16th inch play in the clutch slave.

 

 

thank you, voice of information! i did not get a slave with this tranny, but everything else is matching (flywheel, clutch, T/O bearing and collar). i have the same slave as in the picture Daniel put up, minus the spring. i was planning on using that same slave, or do you think i should order one for a 79 620? i just looked on rockauto, and a dorman slave for a 79 620 does not even have threads on the push rod.

[wayno]

I don't know this for sure, but you probably can use what you have, uncle lau lau has an ajustable one on his 521 with a pre 1980 longshaft 5 spd tranny, don't remember if he has a spring. Try to make sure that the rod is long enough so the slave piston is deep into the bore when it has no pressure. I personally make my own rods out of bolts with the head cut off. Seems to me that the spring mount eyelet on the slave is real close to the torsion bar.

[jon521]

i will bolt the slave on tomorrow and take some pictures and we will see! thanks for your help wayno

[.sunlover]

Sounds like you're about done Jon :) When is this birthday deadline you mentioned?

[bob72gts]

well here we go, i have finally got the engine and tranny. not sure how soon this will be going in, either next week or the week after that. here they are

 

by the way, the ac pump has already come off and will probably be for sale soon

 

 

So, is that A/C compressor for sale yet? I hope you kept everything with it, brackets, tensioner, hose.

[jon521]

.sunlover

friday is my birthday, but i dont think i will driving it by then. i MIGHT have it running by then.

 

Bob

i still have the pump, bracket, and tensioner (everything shown above). are you interested? i see your from AZ?

 

i tried to fit my slave to the clutch fork, but i could not get it so the holes would line up for the bolts. i will get the pictures up when i get home from school

['70 521 L16]

i tried to use a newer clutch fork, realized there was no hole for the push-rod, and just opted to switch back to the old one. my stock push-rod, slave, and fork work fine as long as you switched out the throwout bearing for one meant for the l20.