Jon's 521 L20b 5 speeed

[jon521]

even if the stud's broke flush, the best extraction method is carefully weld a nut onto the broken stud. spray it with water to cool, then simply loosen it out. try this first. Drilling it out means you have to drill exactly in the center to not risk (big risk) ruining your threads to put said bolt back into hole. Method above when done correctly is awesome. start weld from center of stud, circle to nut joining weld perfectly until nut is filled with metal, spray the red out, immediately spin the stud out. Done deal man, good luck.

 

 

ya i dont think i will try to drill it out. if i weld a nut on there tho, i feel like im just going to break the stud again or the weld.

[jon521]

Hey Jon, I have one of those fans now.

 

 

shit, im going to have a shopping list pretty soon with you! haha im excited to come up again. SORRY, still not sure when tho, i will send my brother a message right now and see when it works for him.

[fastdadd]

the method that wanyo gave you would be the best one in this case....truck is coming along nicely

[wayno]

just wondering, what does hitting the manifold by the stud do to break it loose?

 

I don't have/know all the reasons why stuff works, it just does. If I were to guess, I would say when you hit the metal when it is glowing, it ovals the hole the stud is in slightly, enough to loosen the metal around the stud. This is what I was taught to do. Consider this also, metal expands when heated, so if the metal around the stud is glowing, it has expanded, but the stud has not, so in theory, you would not have to hit the metal near the stud, you should be able to just turn it out, but I was taught to hit the mani near the offending stud, then turn it out, this technique has never failed me. wayno

[jon521]

the method that wanyo gave you would be the best one in this case....truck is coming along nicely

 

 

thanks man!

 

@wayno

haha alright thank you, that sounds good. i feel like it will be difficult to only heat up the manifold and not the stud, but we will see.

[wayno]

Don't warm the stud with the torch directly. You have to have enough stud for the vicegrips to grab, otherwise it is a wast of time, and don't melt the mani either, warm it up slowly around the stud, in direct sun you will not be able to see it glow, do it in a shaded area, it doesn't have to look like a light, just barely glowing.

[jon521]

Don't warm the stud with the torch directly. You have to have enough stud for the vicegrips to grab, otherwise it is a wast of time, and don't melt the mani either, warm it up slowly around the stud, in direct sun you will not be able to see it glow, do it in a shaded area, it doesn't have to look like a light, just barely glowing.

 

 

i did a similar operation when i removed the smog plugs minus the striking the manifold, just barely get it glowing

[jon521]

got the stud out just fine the way wayno suggested! im sure .sunlovers way would have worked too, but it was easier just to heat it up. i got the manifolds back in but not torqued. this week i will hopefully be getting a fan from crackerjack and hopefully start DDing the truck again :)

[wayno]

Good job

[jon521]

Good job

 

 

thanks to you and your wizard-like knowledge haha

[wayno]

thanks to you and your wizard-like knowledge haha

 

Wizard-like knowledge? I am just 54 years old, lot of water under the bridge. Now you have some of that wizard-like knowledge to pass on to those in need.

[jon521]

Wizard-like knowledge? I am just 54 years old, lot of water under the bridge. Now you have some of that wizard-like knowledge to pass on to those in need.

 

 

im only 18, but have learned alot, and plan on learning ALOT more.

[merlin]

metal expands at different rates.. if you heated on the stud, it would get bigger in the hole... heat around the hole and the hole gets larger... the rust/gunk holing the stud in acts as a conductor of heat, tapping with a hammer next to it breaks it free into a third layer of material causing it to conduct less heat to the stud.

 

 

 

Grandad was a machinist.

[jon521]

metal expands at different rates.. if you heated on the stud, it would get bigger in the hole... heat around the hole and the hole gets larger... the rust/gunk holing the stud in acts as a conductor of heat, tapping with a hammer next to it breaks it free into a third layer of material causing it to conduct less heat to the stud.

 

 

 

Grandad was a machinist.

 

 

oooooohhhh ok. that makes sense.

[jon521]

well i got it running again today. All the exhaust is on and everything. BUT i believe i STILL have an exhaust leak some where because i had exhaust coming out from under the hood, but when i looked, it seemed to be just rising off the pipes as if it was burning some junk off it, but i ran it for about 5 mins and it did it the whole time so im pretty sure its still leaking somewhere.......

 

and i have an oil and coolant leak. awesome. seems that there is some oil coming from the valve cover, but i used a brand new gasket. i didnt have too much time to look at all these leaks because i had to take off for work, but i will look more thoroughly tomorrow...

 

I HATE LEAKS.

[merlin]

I am having the same luck through my own stupidity... first lost all the tranny fluid trying to put the tranny and engine in together, second put the 620 oil pan on instead of the 521 one.. neeed that 3/4 inch extra cclearance... ack! screwed up the oil pan gasket so now i'm waiting for tomorrows replacement to arrive.

 

lesson learned - read thread 3 times, install once or twice.

[jon521]

I am having the same luck through my own stupidity... first lost all the tranny fluid trying to put the tranny and engine in together, second put the 620 oil pan on instead of the 521 one.. neeed that 3/4 inch extra cclearance... ack! screwed up the oil pan gasket so now i'm waiting for tomorrows replacement to arrive.

 

lesson learned - read thread 3 times, install once or twice.

 

i shoulda sent you a PM. i mentioned it on here that the oil pans are different but look alike. oh well, you figured it out and thats worth it.

[wayno]

I am having the same luck through my own stupidity... first lost all the tranny fluid trying to put the tranny and engine in together, second put the 620 oil pan on instead of the 521 one.. neeed that 3/4 inch extra cclearance... ack! screwed up the oil pan gasket so now i'm waiting for tomorrows replacement to arrive.

 

lesson learned - read thread 3 times, install once or twice.

 

Sucks, don't it. I did the same thing, I grabbed the best looking what I thought was a 521 oilpan I had, turned out to be a 620 pan. I was able to change it in place, I forgot to mention that I always drop the idler arm, as it is much easier to align the engine to the tranny, well when I tried reconnecting the idler, it wouldn't fit. Since I had not put oil in the engine yet, I took all the bolts out of the pan, dropped it enough to get to the oil pick-up tube bolts, loosened one, took the other one out, twisted the pick-up tube, and removed the oilpan, reversed to install. I got lucky, had another oilpan gasket. It added another two hrs. to the engine swap.

[jon521]

i found the coolant leak this morning, my thermostat housing was missing a bolt. shoulda caught that. i also cleaned both surface areas on the valve cover and the head and put the gasket back on. the gasket looks fine...i dont know why it would leak. i need to start it up and see if it still leaks oil. i think what i thought was an exhaust leak is just some wd40 burning off that i had sprayed on for breaking some clamps free because it smells really weird..... i am going to look more into it after school

[merlin]

Stupid q. Did you use the 521 or 620 motor mounts?

[jon521]

Stupid q. Did you use the 521 or 620 motor mounts?

521 mounts

[merlin]

Got the engine in mine finally tonight... Had to Loosen the driver side rubber mount, pull the rear bolt out and swinthe mount forward to get the bolt in the engine side mount... Then tap everything into alignemnt and tighten the bolts and nuts back up.

The rad i was going to use has a pin hole leak... Fortunately 1 got about 7 spares in a parts car i bought, but they all have oil coolers in them... Will still work but i hate having the unneeded tubes sticking out.

 

Tomorrow the plan is to put everything elase in, make a tranny mount, and get her ready for a carb... Need a manual choke one...might just order a weber 32/36....

 

[jon521]

Got the engine in mine finally tonight... Had to Loosen the driver side rubber mount, pull the rear bolt out and swinthe mount forward to get the bolt in the engine side mount... Then tap everything into alignemnt and tighten the bolts and nuts back up.

The rad i was going to use has a pin hole leak... Fortunately 1 got about 7 spares in a parts car i bought, but they all have oil coolers in them... Will still work but i hate having the unneeded tubes sticking out.

 

Tomorrow the plan is to put everything elase in, make a tranny mount, and get her ready for a carb... Need a manual choke one...might just order a weber 32/36....

 

 

i had to do the same thing when i put my engine in. do you have a build thread?

 

 

 

i hopefully will have fixed the coolant leak by tomorrow morning with this new gasket. i hope its not leaking any where else. next is to find the oil leak. since my engine is black, im just going to put some of that dye in my oil, then look at it with a black light. it works pretty good. after running it for a good 10 mins, i set the timing, and mildly tuned the carb with the help of my expert teacher. he said i was running the vacuum advanced to the wrong port on my weber, but i believe i only have 1 port on it.....

also, after running it that long, i had a good amount of coolant on the ground along with some oil kind of under the oil pump... i hope its nothing too serious, i REALLY want to get my truck out of there.

[jon521]

no more coolant leak. i traced the oil leak to the front main seal, so it looks like its gotta be replaced......

[jon521]

also, i drove the truck around more yesterday. the carb and the timing still need to be messed with, if i got on the throttle to hard, it would start to chug. my teacher was telling me that my vacuum advance line should be going to a port above my throttle plates, and the one im going to is below. but there is no other ports on my weber, and this is the same carb i used on my L16 and i ran the vacuum advance to the same place with no problems. for my L16, i know i needed to set it to 10 deg advanced, is it the same with the L20b?

 

another issue i ran into was my speedo doesnt work. i used the same speedo cable that i had on my 4 speed, and it went in fine into the 5 speed. but it doesnt work now so i will have to look more into that.

 

for the front main seal, does anyone know if i need to remove the front cover, or can i get at it with just the removing the pulley? i have the weekend to read up on it