merlin Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 you should be able to do it by just removing the pulley.. just be careful tapping it in... mine went in much easier than the rear seal and you might push it through. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Sorry to tell you this Jon, your teacher is correct, the vacuum advance should be on the airfilter side of the butterflies(throddle plates), otherwise it will not work properly, it will be advanced all the time. There is a port for it there somewhere, unless it is the correct port, and the little hole is routed above the butterflies. Keep in mind that the hole is barely above the butterflies when they are closed. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 i will look more closely on monday, in the mean time i will look up some diagrams of my dfv and see where that port goes into. Thanks to crackerjack, i got some new goodies :) mmmmm close chamber head :) :D also i got a full rebuild kit, a fan, and a shift boot im excited to get the kit and the head off to the shop and get it together! Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 What is the head? A87? Looks like it has some fairly good sized valves in it. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 What is the head? A87? Looks like it has some fairly good sized valves in it. yep, A87. im pretty stoked :D Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 13, 2011 Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 yep, A87. im pretty stoked :D What exactly you think will change when you put that head on, other that the exhaust ports being square that is? Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 What exactly you think will change when you put that head on, other that the exhaust ports being square that is? Ill have a rebuilt, closed-chamber head on it. Why do you ask? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 13, 2011 Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 I don't beleave it will give you any significant increase in power, but your right about knowing it's rebuilt, and that part is done now, and being able to move on to the next thing that needs attention. I used to think that a closed head meant power, I have come to the conclusion that what it really means is that you need to buy a better grade of gas. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 I don't beleave it will give you any significant increase in power, but your right about knowing it's rebuilt, and that part is done now, and being able to move on to the next thing that needs attention. I used to think that a closed head meant power, I have come to the conclusion that what it really means is that you need to buy a better grade of gas. I mean I thought it gave me some power, but not a whole lot. I always put plus in my truck anyways. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 I just spent quite a while trying to find the post that said what the differance was between a open head and closed head hp, I couldn't find it. Seems to me that it was something like a 2% gain with closed chamber, thats almost a joke, 2hp per 100hp. When I read that piece of info, I thought it wasn't worth the effort considering you likely have to buy a higher grade gas, or change the timing so it don't knock, giving up all the hp gain to keep it from knocking. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 I just spent quite a while trying to find the post that said what the differance was between a open head and closed head hp, I couldn't find it. Seems to me that it was something like a 2% gain with closed chamber, thats almost a joke, 2hp per 100hp. When I read that piece of info, I thought it wasn't worth the effort concidering you likely have to buy a higher grade gas, or change the timing so it don't knock, giving up all the hp gain to keep it from knocking. Shit that doesn't sound good.... Quote Link to comment
stretch Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 Shit that doesn't sound good.... I love my A87. its a little noisy under the hood but the power gain is good, id recomend finding a nice cam before you put it on though. go big or go home :rolleyes: lol Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 I love my A87. its a little noisy under the hood but the power gain is good, id recomend finding a nice cam before you put it on though. go big or go home :rolleyes: lol Thanks! thats what i needed to hear :) what grade of gas do you run in it? i was considering doing a cam, but i dont think i have the money for everything that should be changed with it. Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 That A87 you got came off of a normal looking work truck. It should be able to eat regular gas. Really think Nissan would produce a work truck that had to run on premium gas...? Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 That A87 you got came off of a normal looking work truck. It should be able to eat regular gas. Really think Nissan would produce a work truck that had to run on premium gas...? doubt it. but i always put plus in my truck anyways, i notice i get better mpg with it and also ive heard its better for the older engines. the head went off to the shop today, they said the gouge in the bottom was no big deal, easy fix. i am not immediatally going to put the A87 head on. i am going to drive my truck with the W58 on it for awhile, until this A87 is all together. still havent decided if i am going to put a cam in it or not. my truck is for sure coming home this week. next week, we have the whole week off from school, and i am not going to let it sit there all week. so i need to take a look and see how hard it will be to replace this front oil seal. if i can replace it without pulling the front cover, i will replace it this week. if the front cover does in fact need to come off, then im going to drive it with the oil leak for a week, then replace the seal next week. Quote Link to comment
stretch Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 I run plus in mine and it works fine. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 Thanks! thats what i needed to hear :) what grade of gas do you run in it? i was considering doing a cam, but i dont think i have the money for everything that should be changed with it. I did not mean to be negative, sorry. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 so i need to take a look and see how hard it will be to replace this front oil seal. if i can replace it without pulling the front cover, i will replace it this week. if the front cover does in fact need to come off, then im going to drive it with the oil leak for a week, then replace the seal next week. That front seal is a 30 minute job, max. Super easy. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 I did not mean to be negative, sorry. i know you didnt mean to be :) and i didnt take it like you were trying to be. i know you were informing me and i appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience with me. i am always open to learn more about datuns. that is why i am on here instead of typing my paper :) @yello620 sweet! so i probably dont have to remove the front cover? Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 @yello620 sweet! so i probably dont have to remove the front cover? Remove the alternator/fan belt, remove 27mm headed bolt holding the bottom pulley, pulley should slide off by hand. However, if it hasnt been of in many years, it might come off hard. Once pulley is off, pry seal out and install new one. Reassemble. :D Grease the crankshaft snout and the inside of the pulley before reassembly, it will remove easier next time. Word of caution. Be careful not to let the spline key fall into the oil pan. If you have the motor at TDC, i believe the keyway will be at the top, so it doesnt want to fall out, so dont bump it out either. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 Remove the alternator/fan belt, remove 27mm headed bolt holding the bottom pulley, pulley should slide off by hand. However, if it hasnt been of in many years, it might come off hard. Once pulley is off, pry seal out and install new one. Reassemble. :D Grease the crankshaft snout and the inside of the pulley before reassembly, it will remove easier next time. Word of caution. Be careful not to let the spline key fall into the oil pan. If you have the motor at TDC, i believe the keyway will be at the top, so it doesnt want to fall out, so dont bump it out either. word. thanks man! thats exactly what i was hoping it all would be! i have had this pulley off before, and i torqued it on, so once its broken free, it should come right off :) and i will put to TDC just in case. Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 So you mean the seal mounted on the timing cover behind the crank pully? Cuz that just pops right out. You can use a block of wood to push the new one in. The wood will stop when it hits the lip of the timing case, preventing you from installing the seal too deep. It is advisable to use a Japanese (I use Beck Arnley) seal, there's some China ones around. In fact, I think the Felpro gasket set I just got had a China one :( If we're talkin about the same seal, pull the belt, put your ratchet on the pully nut and wedge it against the frame. Then bump the starter to crack it. You won't be able to get an impact gun on it w/ the radiator installed. Wiggle and tap the pully till it comes off. Quick and easy :D OLLZ, I type too slow. You guys already got it before I finished. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 (edited) So you mean the seal mounted on the timing cover behind the crank pully? Cuz that just pops right out. You can use a block of wood to push the new one in. The wood will stop when it hits the lip of the timing case, preventing you from installing the seal too deep. It is advisable to use a Japanese (I use Beck Arnley) seal, there's some China ones around. In fact, I think the Felpro gasket set I just got had a China one :( If we're talkin about the same seal, pull the belt, put your ratchet on the pully nut and wedge it against the frame. Then bump the starter to crack it. You won't be able to get an impact gun on it w/ the radiator installed. Wiggle and tap the pully till it comes off. Quick and easy :D good idea with the block of wood. oohh :unsure: i dont know if the one i ordered is jap or china made.....ordered from autozone so probably china..... i already drained and removed the radiator today haha i had to, to get the fan on, oddly enough. EDIT: the seal i ordered is a TIMKEN ? Edited November 15, 2011 by jon521 Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 i got kicked out of the shop early today so i only got the seal in and the crank pulley back on (not torqued). i just need to get the bolt that hold the fan on, which i have no idea what size they would be. feels good to be almost out of there! Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 wow http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/2704330974.html Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.