datzenmike Posted September 17, 2011 Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 POS computer service, it just dumped my whole reply, freaking slow shit service. Sorry guys, I had a wisdom tooth removed today, and I am wondering about the wisdom of having it removed when it did not hurt. Datzenmike, we are talking about 521 trucks at the moment, it doesn't have a removable transmission cross member, it has a bracket that bolts on to the cross member, that bracket is what needs modified, I thought you had a photo showing what needs to be removed with a measurement, charlie69 has one, but he modified his 520 firewall, so none of his measurements would apply to this, but the idea is the same. I hear ya wayno. My post is to show that switching from the 4 speed to a long tail will raise the driveshaft. The rear mount area on the 5 speed is lower than the 4 speed so if you install it on the 4 speed mount it will be sitting higher. (I'm not sure if that makes sense. But this picture shows the stock mount lowered some... Here's the stock mount Here's one shortened... (supposed to be for a dogleg 5 speed) . Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 17, 2011 Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 This is my work truck datzenmike, it had a 200SX dogleg shortshaft 5 spd. in it when I bought it, after I replaced about the third dogleg, I was sick and tired of it, that is when I figured out how to make a L series 720 shortshaft 5 spd. It bolted right in with this configuration, tomarrow I have the pleasure of removing this transmission as it has finally given up after 5 to 6 years of constant abuse, but is certainly better that the every year and a half a dogleg lasted. I guess I really never noticed it was lower than stock, as I don't own any stock 521 4 spd. trucks. Why does the carrier need to be moved? So then what your saying is that this modified mount will have the tranny sitting higher than it is supposed to be, and it may/will hit the tunnel? Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted September 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 So then what your saying is that this modified mount will have the tranny sitting higher than it is supposed to be, and it may/will hit the tunnel? ben said he didnt have any height problems i didn't need to lower anything- relocate carrier or get a new driveshaft cut...:) he shortened the mount, used the 620 driveline, and moved the carrier bearing about an inch closer to the front so that the 620 driveline could bolt to it. being that the rear driveline on the 521 is a slip yoke going into the carrier bearing, moving the carrier bearing forward still left enough spline engaged. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 Here the transmission mount for a long shaft 5 speed in my 521. The truck has a L-18 engine in it. And this is the other side of it. This is a picture of the yoke I used with the 5 speed. The second picture of the yoke. The part of the mount that bolts to the cross member is just a "L" shaped piece of steel, and it has a short piece of rectangular tube welded to it. Part of the original Datsun trans mount was cut out so it could slide forward and back on the rectangular tube, and before it was welded together, the mount was bolted to the transmission, and lowered on the pieces, and tack welded. Then it was removed, and welded together. 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 Here the transmission mount for a long shaft 5 speed in my 521. The truck has a L-18 engine in it. And this is the other side of it. This is a picture of the yoke I used with the 5 speed. The second picture of the yoke. The part of the mount that bolts to the cross member is just a "L" shaped piece of steel, and it has a short piece of rectangular tube welded to it. Part of the original Datsun trans mount was cut out so it could slide forward and back on the rectangular tube, and before it was welded together, the mount was bolted to the transmission, and lowered on the pieces, and tack welded. Then it was removed, and welded together. This was a very good way to do it, most of it can be fabricated ahead of time, this is contributing. Excellent post. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted September 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 thank you! that helps alot! that is the best way i have heard of doing it. we may have some square tubing around the shop i can use or i can pick some up from homedepo. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted September 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Here a few pictures from today Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted September 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Does anyone know what kind of oil i should put in my 5 speed? with my 5 speed i think i used some 90 weight stuff but i dont know if that was correct or not Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 90 is fine overall but try for GL-4 rating or a GL-5 marked GL-4 compatible or 'yellow metal safe'. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted September 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 90 is fine overall but try for GL-4 rating or a GL-5 marked GL-4 compatible or 'yellow metal safe'. alright thank you! Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Does anyone know what kind of oil i should put in my 5 speed? with my 5 speed i think i used some 90 weight stuff but i dont know if that was correct or not :unsure:I didn't give it much thought till you asked, I went out and looked, now I am worried about what I am using, it doesn't say yellow metal safe on the bottle. :unsure: What it does say is, it is good for GL-2 thru GL-5 apps. ??? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 love the hood paint job! Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Jon, what is the little piece with the vaccum line on it that looks like it is attached to the vaccum advance? Looks like a check valve? Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted September 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Jon, what is the little piece with the vaccum line on it that looks like it is attached to the vaccum advance? Looks like a check valve? some sort of one way valve, not sure what its for. tendril thanks im really happy with how it turned out Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 some sort of one way valve, not sure what its for. Thats what i thought i was seeing on there. You do not want a one way valve on the vaccum advance. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted September 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 I believe it was being used as a plug because the way it was in line, no air could have been pulled from the carb. If that makes any sense haha. I pulled my crank pulley to paint it but I can't seem to find a torque sec on it, does anyone have it? Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 Wait till the motor is all done, put together and in the truck to do the final touch. Put it in 5th gear, block the tires and finish. There maybe a torque spec for it, but really if you got it tight its fine. the motor spins the direction it tightens, so its not going to come lose. there is a key pin that keeps it in place so it wont just spin freely Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 I pulled my crank pulley to paint it but I can't seem to find a torque sec on it, does anyone have it? 87-116 ft/lbs according to olddatsuns.com Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted September 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 (edited) thanks for the tips! things did not go as planned today, but the engine and transmission is coming out in the morning. only thing holding them in now is the engine mounts. Excited to see it out of there! Edited September 22, 2011 by jon521 Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 just picked up an alternater for a good deal from a buddy of mine, he is not sure what its from, but does anyone know what years datsuns used external voltage regulators? im pretty sure my 521 is interally regulated (i believe my wires from my alternator go straight to the starter), but i didnt get a regulater or any wires with this alternator here it is so i guess my question is do i need a voltage regulator? or is there any way to tell what this is from? i know its hard to tell without know what year this is from, but i thought id ask. i havent searched around here at all yet, so im going to go do that now. Thanks! did the search and found that from 78 on in 620s that they were interally regulated, right? Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 i believe 78+ used external regulated. not hard to bypass on a 521 tho, just jump the wires at the regulator connector. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 All datsun alts. have a wire that goes to the starter I beleave(but I could be wrong ), if your voltage regulater is still plugged in, then likely your alt. is not internally regulated, I put an internally regulated alt. on my work truck and had to unplug the voltage regulater and use jumper wires in the plug that goes to the voltage regulater to make the internally regulated alt. work properly. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Alright thank you! I will take a better look at my wiring tomorrow and update. So no ideas on what this other alternator is? Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted September 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 So i was wrong, my alternator is externally regulated, but still not a clue with this new one i got. Made alot of progress today this is how it sits now also, is there any way to swap water pump pulleys with out the whole pump? i have a clutch fan on the L20b, and on my L16 i have the fan that runs all the time. The L20b didnt come with a fan and my L16 fan wont work for it, so maybe i can just swap the pulleys? eventually id like to put an electric fan on, but i dont have the money for it right now. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 Is that a Ratsun salute i see in the background?? Quote Link to comment
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