DAT510 Posted October 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Those new rotors are 280ZX for sure. No idea what the fuck those old ones are. DEFINITELY not 280ZX.. They might be 280z or 510 ones im not sure. The fact the dude I bought them off of ground the p/n doesnt help either. I know the spindle is beefier on the ZX so I cant simply put ZX hubs on these.. bummer. I also got the wrong brake pads (Metallic) so im not even going to bother turning them, im just gonna slap the new pads on and the existing rotors and call it good until I source actual ZX struts, im just gonna make the coilovers myself.. you know what they say, if you want something done right... Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 They might be 280z or 510 ones im not sure. Gotta be 510. 280Z rotors are very big (just not very thick). Maybe even larger diameter than 280ZX... edit: Confirmed the 280Z rotor is 10.66" in diameter. So yes, slightly bigger in diameter than 280ZX. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted October 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 L20B head gasket on KA24DE head. I dont have a Z series gasket but im sure its closer than a L.. How cool does a KAZ22DE sound? Here are my ideas thus far Z22 block, L20B crank (fully balanced) IDK on rods or piston yet. I know the DE head has quite a big combustion chamber, so I either need high pin height pistons or boost to make up for lack of compression. Dont tell me to start with a Z24 or KA, neither have balance cranks, nor have the ideal rod/bore ratio for high revs. Yes my goal is to achieve high revs, with or without boost. Im just not sure on the pistons speeds, C/R or Rod/Bore ratio I want. Or boost. Im aiming to use Nissan parts, but if I need to use different pistons and rods so be it. I dont plan on running lots of boost either. ~10psi, R1 carbs or EFI. Id need stand alone ECU because of the block head combo. or I may just throw this whole idea out and hold out for a SR20VE. I just want a high revving sumbitch. and still streetable. The VE is perfect for this I think. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted October 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Gotta be 510. 280Z rotors are very big (just not very thick). Maybe even larger diameter than 280ZX... edit: Confirmed the 280Z rotor is 10.66" in diameter. So yes, slightly bigger in diameter than 280ZX. fuck lol I got sold my own struts dagnabit, my fault for not researching before hand. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 fuck lol I got sold my own struts dagnabit, my fault for not researching before hand. Hell, those might even be 1200 rotors... :rofl: Sorry, shouldn't kick a fella when he's down. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted October 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Hell, those might even be 1200 rotors... :rofl: About time I have something 1200 in my hands :crying: :w00t: (Luv 1200s) Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Just remembered the bolts that hold a 1200 rotor on go in from the front, not the back. So back to thinking 510. :blush: Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted October 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Just remembered the bolts that hold a 1200 rotor on go in from the front, not the back. So back to thinking 510. :blush: Im not too concerned on what it is at this point, as long as it works for now. The only reason I bought those damn struts was to pull my front rims in, I have like an inch of poke. I guess im gonna hace to camber the shit out of it or get the correct wheels to tuck. (15x7 0 offset all around, the rear tucks perfectly with 195/60). Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Wow someone's been busy ... still catching up .. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted October 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 Wow someone's been busy ... still catching up .. :thumbup: U r a slow reader Today in my quest for 9k usable RPMS, I found out Nissan made a KA20DE.. I havent found specifics on it however. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 Today in my quest for 9k usable RPMS, I found out Nissan made a KA20DE.. I havent found specifics on it however. A hot rod A14 would get you 10k rpms... :rofl: And wouldn't an SR20DE be kinda the same thing?? Also, they made a VG20E too. Wanna talk about a high-revving engine... :devil: Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted October 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 Yeah you're right, not sure why I even considered it there's no way I can get one locally. I was just interested in the crank/rod combo and the block height. For hybrid builds in the future ;) For now I'm thinking I'll just leave this LZ alone until I blow it up or until I find out whether my valve seals or piston rings are gone, maybe both lol. Either way this thing is getting a Sr20VE soon. Freak you ever look into those? I know those pesky As will Rev to 10k and sound damn good with some sidedrafts. But if only they made as much power as they did noise hehehe. I said too much but no one checks this build anyways lol A hot rod A14 would get you 10k rpms... :rofl: And wouldn't an SR20DE be kinda the same thing?? Also, they made a VG20E too. Wanna talk about a high-revving engine... :devil: Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 Wat.., jajajajajaja Do a leak-down test ... and compression test ... wet then dry ... Always best to know the numbers before bolts come out no ? pull the motor ... bore and larger pistons if need be .... slap back together and be happy ! Unless the head needs to be re-built then be sad... then happy .. :lol: Not that much work involved or am I stoopid ? ( which we both know I am stoopid hehe ). Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 I said too much but no one checks this build anyways lol This is actually one of the few threads I've been watching lately :P ...But you're right, I am a no one so it's all good. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 26, 2013 Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 Either way this thing is getting a Sr20VE soon. Freak you ever look into those? A few times, especially back when I had a G20. Never pursued it too far. They didn't a make a RWD version though, did they? I know those pesky As will Rev to 10k and sound damn good with some sidedrafts. But if only they made as much power as they did noise No kidding. :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Dime Dave Posted October 26, 2013 Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 No VE RWD configurations with stock parts. Most guys swap the VE head to an SR RWD block to use the RWD SR transmission. The VE block has the different FWD bellhousing bolt pattern. Someone found a RWD transmission (A series I think, not sure) that mates to the block with all but one bolt aligning. If an A series that isn't near suitable for VE power. Another issue with the VE head is the distributor hangs off the flywheel end as do the cam solenoids. Crank fire ignition will remove the distributor (or you could use the SR-20V coil on plug with a cam angle sensor). Mazworx sells a solenoid relocation plate kit which will allow you to move them off the end of the head. I made up a small run (sold out) of VE engine to L series transmission adapter plates for club racers. A couple did get sold to guys for street use. 1 Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted October 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 Wat.., jajajajajaja Do a leak-down test ... and compression test ... wet then dry ... Always best to know the numbers before bolts come out no ? pull the motor ... bore and larger pistons if need be .... slap back together and be happy ! Unless the head needs to be re-built then be sad... then happy .. :lol: Not that much work involved or am I stoopid ? ( which we both know I am stoopid hehe ). I dont haveu a leak down gauge or whatever, I should get one.. I shouldnt need to pull the engine lol, I just swapped in a fresh one!! LZ22 holmes where have you been the last page or two!? lol I should fix the current problem with just replacing the valve seals, if that doesnt fix the problem I suppose I could buy a quart of oil every time I fill up on gas until I overhaul it lol. (im trying to fix my 240sx, and then after that my 521.) This is actually one of the few threads I've been watching lately :P ...But you're right, I am a no one so it's all good. I make very slow progress you're gonna be in for a slow and sometimes exciting ride :sneaky: i am no one too A few times, especially back when I had a G20. Never pursued it too far. They didn't a make a RWD version though, did they? No kidding. :rofl: Ahhhh G20. I used to have a P10, great car. I dreamed of swapping in the GTi-R engine in lol. Thats how I found out about the VE. They only made FWD SR20VEs, in the P11 and P12, and another car that currently escapes me, but it was a SR16VE. Apparently sought after. No VE RWD configurations with stock parts. Most guys swap the VE head to an SR RWD block to use the RWD SR transmission. The VE block has the different FWD bellhousing bolt pattern. Someone found a RWD transmission (A series I think, not sure) that mates to the block with all but one bolt aligning. If an A series that isn't near suitable for VE power. Another issue with the VE head is the distributor hangs off the flywheel end as do the cam solenoids. Crank fire ignition will remove the distributor (or you could use the SR-20V coil on plug with a cam angle sensor). Mazworx sells a solenoid relocation plate kit which will allow you to move them off the end of the head. I made up a small run (sold out) of VE engine to L series transmission adapter plates for club racers. A couple did get sold to guys for street use. Exactly, though I didnt know that people actually ran the FWD block!? My plan was to source SR16V Pistons and RWD SR block, build block and head up for 9k RPMs and run the N1 cams. Haven't looked into the ignition or the VVL solenoids however. Ill cross that bride when I get there. Incase you were wondering what it sounded like (like a honda but oh fucking well the 510 needs it) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_g-rpEC0ubk i didnt want to say anything until I got the engine... BUT life has gotten in the way once again, so all this is on hold indefinitely. School and paying 20 hours of community service for flying by a stop sign, (Those fucks milked me for every cent I had) at least it doesnt appear on my record :thumbup: now my first ticket (6 months after I do community service so it doesnt void my clean record) can be a speeding ticket with this pile o shit. I'll frame it and everything. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted November 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 Here is a super condensed version to all those that care http://nwdatsuns.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=573 Quote Link to comment
gypsy punk Posted December 1, 2013 Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 Doesn't the VE mean the variable Vale timing and isn't that the same as the late s14 sr20 (notchback). Or and I wrong on what the VE stands for. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Doesn't the VE mean the variable Vale timing and isn't that the same as the late s14 sr20 (notchback). Or and I wrong on what the VE stands for. No, the SR20VE has variable valve LIFT, the later VQ37 has both variable timing and lift. VVL is like VTEC except it uses both cams opposed to just the intake. S15s did have a notchback SR but it doesn't have VVL. Only Primeras and Pulsars had VVL SR20s, which are in the FWD format, cant use the block but you can use the head with some mods. (I know someone is I don't a FWD SR20 in a 210,I don't think that's tootoopractical practical) Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Epic build, man!!! Don't know why I just found it now......you're local too... Great work!!....got me hooked.... Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Yo, holy shit what happened Well, im back in it I guess I built this ITB KA a year ago, but im pursuing an engineering degree so as you could imagine school has fucked me all sorts of ways (itbs are upside down) im also in the Mtech program at my school which includes some a machine shop class, so hopefully very soon ill be able to adapt S13 coilovers to the rear. 2 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Damn. How long has it been? Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Damn bro.. welcome back Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 You're gonna need flares for 15x9 Wats yo ... and welcome back! Quote Link to comment
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