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HiComp ITB KA24DE 510


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510s like to do that, especially in the rear.  :rofl:

 

Hahaha, I guess my 510 likes to sit sideways too cause one side is lower than the other :lol:

Its bothering me a bit but im just too an excited to drive it everywhere. I volunteer to do groceries and errands for my parents just to drive her around, of course when I have too much grocercies the wheels in the back start rubbing :rofl:

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  • 1 month later...

Guess its time to update my thread lol.

Well, my 510s been serving me fine. No serious problems, nothing to complain about (Actually.... nevermind.) and she looks great! 

For some reason I guess I thought it'd be ok not update my thread with a good picture of my cars.

 

With out further adeiu:

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Anyways, I've also started the teardown on the donor S13.
A couple questions:

I took a peak underneath the valve cover, the markings on the cams were a bit off. Are they normal?

Theres also a grind coming from the head, it sounds like its coming from the intake side. Could the cam be grinding?
She has a tremendous lack of power, I drove it in its current condition (same plugs, air filter, fuel filter, etc.) and it took a couple seconds to get to 45mph, all whilst flooring it.

I've yet to do a leakdown test or compression test, ive actually already unplugged most sensors on the top half of the engine so...

 

I guess im just stating whats wrong since I havent really done anything to test, any suggestions as to what to look for? Vacuum leaks, missing, etc?

I think im going to wire everything up once more to run it to look for anything. Anyways, here are some oics.

 

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Fucking PO.

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These things were a pain in the ass

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End of a long day

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Well, I fixed my white needle tach.

First you start with a 200sx gauge cluster, Mines a 82 not that it makes a difference.

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This thing is so cool, it hurt to take it apart.  :crying:

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Anyways, after taking apart the 200sx tach you end up with this

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You need to trim the top piece off and drill holes for the wires. 

Now would also be a good time to shave off the coating and drill the holes.

(Excuse the shitty "cut" i literally cut into the board and tried snapping it... :blush: )

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Solder them bitches in:

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You're not out of the woods yet dude. 

The old board had trapezoid cut outs on the side, your new one doesn't.. you can't trim the pieces off but you can shave the housing a bit..  :devil:

Old one

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New one

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Problem solved

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And DTP is your uncle! Or dad.. sorry aboot that banner..

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:rofl:

if a 17 year old kid with shit skills can do it, you can too!

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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Right so, everything was going smoothly until I picked up the MIG gun. I suddenly forgot how to weld, or today was just not my day. I WAS going to cut and tweak the tube that goes from the lower block to the PCV but that all went to hell after I blew a hole into the tube. No matter, I can fix that still. 

The current problem is that I cant seem to find a Manual brake pedal around here, so i'm going to cut my Auto one so it fits. I dont see why it wouldnt work, for now at least.

I finished assembling my engine completely today, worked till 9. 

Things accomplished today:

  • Pulled auto tranny, and driveline. Seems the "Shortened driveline" I bought a while ago was stock. lol. 
  • took apart pedal assembly. I concluded that there is no way in hell im going to take out the whole box
  • mounted clutch master, got a general idea of the routing. 

Things to do still:

  • Fab tube from crankcase to PCV.
  • Fab Tranny crossmember
  • Shorten driveline
  • Fit auto brake pedal
  • Bend clutch lines
  • START HER UP!!

I pulled the engine out of my 510 last week Tuesday, and thats when this swap started really.

I would have gotten to it earlier but the dude that did my paint said he'd buff the car in the same day, and here we are.. two years later.

 

Also I'd like to point out that my old L20B was pretty worn. Glazed cylinders, sludgy crankcase, and worst of all it was running pretty lean (Thanks to Mr. "I can tune a carb" over here)

Add to that an exhaust leak and a tiny intake.. it now makes sense why it didnt have much power, but at the same time it did.. I mean I could swing donuts no problem, and pull on a old farm truck F100 lol. If I was getting 80hp to the wheels at best..

 

I'm even more anxious to see what this fresh LZ has in store.. though I think the 32/36 might be a tad too small for it.  

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32/36 might be too small, I think MMonkey is running a 38/38 on his right now? 

 

I know that I've been told that I'll be pulling the power down on my 2.1 with a set of SUs that have M66 needles, bigger nozzles, and a hogged out manifold. Haven't tested the theory yet since it's not running... but I've been told... (it was Troy Ermish, and he'd just assume I get a set of 44s and be done with it hahahaha)

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Same thing here. I contacted him about using 46mm SUs on my LZ and he suggested I use the 38mm and just rejet them. His stance was since these motors are not high reving race engines the 46mm would actually be sluggish off the line. Since I was using it as a DD didnt want that.

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Much progress today. 

Should hook up exhaust and intake mani tomorrow, and measure required driveshaft length (280zx FS5W71B.) as well cut the hole for the shifter.

I ordered a 280sx transmission mount, it should be here on Tuesday,  that'll be the same day I figure out the tranny crossmember.

My deadline to get it driving is Friday at the latest. I have a swap meet to attend on Saturday, im hoping to make it in the 510. 

if not i'll tow it over there.

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