wayno's LZ22

[wayno]

You mean.....LZ23

Correct?

 

 

I don't know what it is, it's a L head on a Z22 block, = LZ22 I have no idea how many CCs it is, I suspect though, if I go back threw this thread, it will say what it is somewhere. :lol:

[Sealik]

I don't know what it is, it's a L head on a Z22 block, = LZ22 I have no idea how many CCs it is, I suspect though, if I go back threw this thread, it will say what it is somewhere. :lol:

 

 

Sounded like you were 'seeing' another LZ on the side :D

Bored to 89mm....LZ23

[wayno]

Sounded like you were 'seeing' another LZ on the side :D

Bored to 89mm....LZ23

 

 

All I know is this setup(LZ23) has way more torque than what I had, and I am waiting to see how it acts on the freeway with the trailer tomarrow.

[hang_510]

w00 h00! :thumbup:

[wayno]

The truck has a little more power on the hiway, normally where I was floored, I am no longer having to floor it, I floored it to see the differance, wasn't a lot left power wise, but I beleave i'll be getting better mileage not having to floor it. It's weird, I have more power, but basicly I am not as deep into the gas pedal, the fresh engine(L20b/W53 head, stock valves, RV cam) I pulled I was deep into the pedal all the time, it struggled a lot. But I guess I have to keep in mind what these engines have to move. I deffinately have way more torque, the previous engine I could feel each piston hit and the truck would shudder/rattle till the RPMs got a little higher.

[wayno]

I might as well thread jack my own thread, I am curious about what my compression ratio is on a engine I have out back that runs. It is a 1980 L20b block with a U67 head head that doesn't look like it has ever been shaved/milled at all. BTW, my LZ23 runs great, it is a torque monster, it has a differant sound also.

[d510addict]

How fresh was the l20b that you were running? I notice a huge gain down low from the l16 to the l20b well technically l2.3b (havent had it on the freeway yet but power seems to die down as it revs up where as the l16 was at home screamin down the road). I cant imagine what more torque would be like. What kind of horse power is that lz motor pulling?

[metalmonkey47]

Wayno,

 

you should get a video of that thing running! I'm kind of interested in the difference in sound it might have.

[datzenmike]

If that's an '80 block then the head was swapped on. All L20Bs with open chamber heads (like the U-67) were 8.4 compression

[wayno]

If that's an '80 block then the head was swapped on. All L20Bs with open chamber heads (like the U-67) were 8.4 compression

 

Yea Datzenmike, it was swapped on, square port exhaust mani also. The L20b blocks in 1980 were all the same? I am making an assumtion here, there is a possibility that the whole engine was swapped out. The engine runs, so I wasn't going to pull it apart, the guy that drove it back from salem or. for me said it was gutless, i was following in case it died. 8.4 C/R, what does that mean to me? Good or bad?

[wayno]

Wayno,

 

you should get a video of that thing running! I'm kind of interested in the difference in sound it might have.

 

 

I am not capable of taking a video, it also has a header, so it has a sound of its own anyway. It runs really good, has a lot of torque, I'm able to get everything moving easily now, the L20b with the W53 head with stock valves and a RV cam struggled to get everything moving. When I was floored before, I am on the top half of the pedal now and going faster. :D

[wayno]

How fresh was the l20b that you were running? I notice a huge gain down low from the l16 to the l20b well technically l2.3b (havent had it on the freeway yet but power seems to die down as it revs up where as the l16 was at home screamin down the road). I cant imagine what more torque would be like. What kind of horse power is that lz motor pulling?

 

It was a tight low mile 1980 L20b block with a fresh stock W53 peanut head, except the intakes were ported to match the SU type manifold. I had a RV cam put in it, AC(the owner) told me I wouldn't like that cam, but I didn't listen, I wanted more power on the hiway pulling the trailer and all, as it turned out, I lost torque in the lower rpms range because of the cam, and on the hiway at the higher rpms, the head couldn't breath with the stock valves, so the porting was just about worthless. The L20b block is a torque engine, there isn't much left after 4500rpms on my L20bs or the new LZ23 IMHO. I had it up to 5000 rpms once, but I just don't see a point, it doesn't like being there. The L16 and L18 are rev addicts, like the A blocks, they will scream all day, but they won't haul my trailer anywhere.

[Sealik]

Yea Datzenmike, it was swapped on, square port exhaust mani also. The L20b blocks in 1980 were all the same? I am making an assumtion here, there is a possibility that the whole engine was swapped out. The engine runs, so I wasn't going to pull it apart, the guy that drove it back from salem or. for me said it was gutless, i was following in case it died. 8.4 C/R, what does that mean to me? Good or bad?

 

 

Your LZ23 engine was calculated at 8.9 CR?

If an engine was bumped up from 8.4 to 9.4 CR...would be an 'negligible' 2-3 percent increase in HP

So....you would be half that???

Mine is 8.4ish.....lots of torque.

I haven't revved it over 5000 RPM yet....but it seemed to be still pulling strong.

[wayno]

I was just curious about what the C/R would do to the power, 2/3 percent isn't much except at the track. I never drove it except up and down the guys street to see if all the gears worked, it only had a 4 spd. That casing worked great for my shortshaft 5 speed, never would have known it could be done if it hadn't had that 4 spd. in it. So now I have a running L20b with a U67 head that I will probably never use as I have found the LZ23.

[wayno]

My LZ23 has water in the oil, CRAP I have had no issues lately, not running hot at all since that L16 thremostat cover issue which caused no headgasket problems then, that was a while ago. Should I have retorked the head somewhere in this process?

[wayno]

Head gasket looks good, but.................. the head bolt closest to the L head thermostat housing was basicly loose, I am having a problem with this, I torqued all of them progessively in about 5 stages before i made it to the final torque and then I re-checked them, CRAP.

[Sealik]

That does suck....so, I'm thinking the block (head bolt hole) is suspect.???

I haven't retorked mine yet.

My Felpro HG application states ...No re-torque needed

Although.....their 'disclaimer' suggests.... new head bolts.

[wayno]

Well, the head bolt hole closest to the thermostat housing on the L head is stripped, the 6 inch bolts aren't long enough to reach the rest of the threads, there are a 1/2 inch more threads down there. I am thinking about buying a stud or a 6 1/2 inch bolt to get to the rest of the threads, fact is I am not pulling the engine until there are no threads in there at all. I just don't understand it, it torqued fine when I put it together, I did find one of the long bolts a quarter inch shorter than the rest, just my luck it was probably the one in that hole with the alignment dowell which has less threads to start with. CRAP

[hang_510]

that sucks!

 

i bought a Z24 block that i found had 3 striped holes, 1 was fixed w/standard threads. :rolleyes:

[banzai510(hainz)]

My LZ23 has water in the oil, CRAP???

 

This one is not going to be EZ but maybe it could be from the water passage on the front cover leaking?

 

Mine was the front cover/waterpump area cavitated thus putting water in the oil pan when it pressurized. it was a tiny oil.

[wayno]

My LZ23 has water in the oil, CRAP???

 

This one is not going to be EZ but maybe it could be from the water passage on the front cover leaking?

 

Mine was the front cover/waterpump area cavitated thus putting water in the oil pan when it pressurized. it was a tiny oil.

 

I was able to get a stud in the hole, but the cam towers are a problem, I am unable to get a socket on the nut, but I have no choice but this or yank the engine.

I was able to tighten the nut with a wrench, that's it, I hope this lasts for a while. I going to try a non-pressurized water system this time with a reservoir, it's back together and running good. I can sure think of other things to work on when it is 90 degrees out.

[wayno]

There are a couple things I learned today, a stock L16 exhaust manifold wouldn't work on my engine without changing the block vent breather tube setup as it is, the "top end performance" header(new) will not work without major grinding on the flange because where the Z22 block designation/idenifacation surface is, it is in the way, it would work fine on a L20b block. So I ended up welding the old header back together again. All types of head gaskets have a lot of metal in them, the holes were not as pretty this time, but I didn't wear off any of the material this time, as it took me 20 minutes to make the mods this time, when it took 2 hrs. the last time. There must be a tool that one of us can make that will punch the holes instead of me having to grind them out with a dremel.

 

 

[Jester]

Wonder how well one of these kits would work?

 

It won't allow me to put a direct link. Scroll down to the bottom and the gasket punch kit is on the right.

[Sealik]

There are a couple things I learned today, a stock L16 exhaust manifold wouldn't work on my engine without changing the block vent breather tube setup as it is, the "top end performance" header(new) will not work without major grinding on the flange because where the Z22 block designation/idenifacation surface is, it is in the way, it would work fine on a L20b block. So I ended up welding the old header back together again. All types of head gaskets have a lot of metal in them, the holes were not as pretty this time, but I didn't wear off any of the material this time, as it took me 20 minutes to make the mods this time, when it took 2 hrs. the last time. There must be a tool that one of us can make that will punch the holes instead of me having to grind them out with a dremel.

 

 

There is.....a drill.. :D

Just mark the gasket...line it up with a pre-drilled hole, HG is sandwiched between 2 pieces of wood...drill..........voila

No blow out....clean hole

 

 

Did you put a large dollop of extra strength Loctite on that head bolt/stud prior to install?.... :D

[wayno]

There is.....a drill.. :D

Just mark the gasket...line it up with a pre-drilled hole, HG is sandwiched between 2 pieces of wood...drill..........voila

No blow out....clean hole

 

 

Did you put a large dollop of extra strength Loctite on that head bolt/stud prior to install?.... :D

 

 

Unfortunately for me, stuff like that never enters my mind, and I pay for it down the road sometimes. The stud I made is bottomed out in the hole, i had the vicegrips as tight as I could get them, and it would spin on the shaft, I couldn't get it any tighter or deeper. My worry is that I was unable to torque that head bolt/stud, the nut was right against the cam tower, I guess that is why the head bolts are hex head bolts.

As I said in an earlier post, I ripped the rubber gasket off the radiator cap so the system has no pressure anymore, it just goes to the reservior as the water expands, I am hoping that will reduce the chance of water getting into the oil till the fall, then I might tear it down again and have it fixed/re-threaded. I will get good at modifying head gaskets:( at this rate. But now I will pay closer attention to the bolts and what holes they go into.