izzo Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 I would! Don't waste your money building a cracked block. You could always "franken-block" it. Grind the ID area flat and drill and tap the holes to take a couple of 10-32 screws. Counterbore the outer half of the crack. Install the screws with Threebond 1211 sealer on them and use the same (or pipe dope) on the head bolt threads. Ask Cody about the franken-block. This is not a racing motor, if he was using it on a track i would tell him to find another block. But for what this is getting used for, it will be fine. Those little stress cracks wont bother anything. Theres a lot of them out there, right now, working well with those little cracks. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 OK. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted May 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 The block has already been bored, it had the two small cracks in that center headbolt hole only, none of the other holes had cracks, I decided to take the chance, if it don't work out, then I will have had an expensive lesson, they just didn't seem to be that big of cracks, when I removed the head bolts they all seemed to be holding there torque, that one was not easier to get out. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 Well you could get lucky so let's keep our fingers crossed. What actually happens is that the water seeps in to that bolt hole and can rust the threads on the bolt so be sure to use some sort of pipe dope on the threads. Also the water can travel up the bolt hole and seep through the washer and into the valley of the head, introducing water into the oiling system. Remember, the cooling system is under pressure, the crankcase is not. Another reason to use a thread sealer on the threads. Oh yeah, be careful torquing the head or you could pull those threads right out of the block. BTW- I've built worse... Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 OK Wayno, time for an update. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 The block has been done for a while, when the head was put together there was no room for adjustment, he is a very busy guy dealing with race engines, and he always gives me a good deal when I have to wait, so I wait. He told me thursday or friday that he would get to it soon. Here is a couple oics. of the block. I don't get it, the head had them valves in it already, we ordered a fresh cam, I don't think the head was milled, I just don't understand what is differant, maybe the cam has more meat on it? Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Very cool. At least it's closer to going in. So your out of adjustment at the valve or at the pad on the rocker arm? Lash pads correct size? Maybe a slightly bigger cam was used. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 I asked him that question, could the cam be bigger/new/not a regrind, I have a feeling i'll find out this coming week, then I will have to purchase a headgasket, and make the mods to the deck of the block for proper cooling of the head. The cam was supposed to be a stock grind, I went with a RV grind on the engine I am running now, tork wise I don't have the power I had before, I don't beleave the smaller valves would have effected the tork at the lower rpms, so that leaves the RV cam, he warned me that bigger cams may give me more power at higher rpms, by sacrificing tork. Quote Link to comment
erikcarter Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Who are you having do it? Archie Sommers did mine. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 whats wrong with the valves?????????? most stock to RV grind is minimal that I have seen. You have been reading Sealicks 720 engine build right? Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Stoffregen motorsports is referring to my L19. THe block had the same cracks. ANd i cant find a pic of it for the life of me! It had been repaired with the method he suggested, and was carefully torqued with non hardening pipe sealer. Zero issues with over 2500 miles on it!! Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 I asked him that question, could the cam be bigger/new/not a regrind, I have a feeling i'll find out this coming week, then I will have to purchase a headgasket, and make the mods to the deck of the block for proper cooling of the head. The cam was supposed to be a stock grind, I went with a RV grind on the engine I am running now, tork wise I don't have the power I had before, I don't beleave the smaller valves would have effected the tork at the lower rpms, so that leaves the RV cam, he warned me that bigger cams may give me more power at higher rpms, by sacrificing tork. The cam I have has only 10 degrees more duration than stock.....but has a higher lift...481 to be exact. I will run the engine at No 3 position on cam sprocket.....should have good bottom end/torque. Get the heavy 4x4 with 30x9.5's out of the hole quicker. My other truck is already at No 3 position....noticeable improvement on hills. Quote Link to comment
mike Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 On your head gasket, just get a Z22 gasket and trim the front off. Run a 1/4" inch or so bead of RTV or Great stuff where the timing cover mates to the head, install the bolts from the head to the timing cover but dont snug them up till after the sealant cures. Its also easy to clean up the extra sealant from inside the block. I did this on mine and it hasnt leaked a drop and looks clean. I didnt drill the coolant holes in the block or the gasket... didnt even think about it at the time... and it runs noticeably hotter than before... oops. Im going to redo it with the holes drilled in both the block and gasket. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 On your head gasket, just get a Z22 gasket and trim the front off. Run a 1/4" inch or so bead of RTV or Great stuff where the timing cover mates to the head, install the bolts from the head to the timing cover but dont snug them up till after the sealant cures. Its also easy to clean up the extra sealant from inside the block. I did this on mine and it hasnt leaked a drop and looks clean. I didnt drill the coolant holes in the block or the gasket... didnt even think about it at the time... and it runs noticeably hotter than before... oops. Im going to redo it with the holes drilled in both the block and gasket. Actually....I believe the engine has been bored to 89mm/Z24 pistons...LZ23 Z22 HG too small Quote Link to comment
mike Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Good catch :rolleyes::) Same story Z24 gasket. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Who are you having do it? Archie Sommers did mine. The AC Nutter machine shop on fourth plain in orchards. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 whats wrong with the valves?????????? most stock to RV grind is minimal that I have seen. You have been reading Sealicks 720 engine build right? I don't know whats wrong with the setup, there was no problem when the head was originally built/modified, I just take it to him and tell him what I want. It's almost done, but I am getting antsy, the engine in the truck now just is not cutting it, this engine in the truck now will work good in the 66 520 i think. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted July 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 I stopped by the machine shop today, they ordered shorter valves and have it all together except for the cam, which should be in tomarrow, it baffles me that they were unable to use the existing valves that were in it for 10 years, but this time they said I had no adjustment, funny thing though, that is why I took it in there in the first place, one of the valves in #3 cylinder was out of adjustment, I thought the valve was sinking into the head, but they told me none of the seats/valves had a problem. I am beginning to think that I should find another machine shop during racing season, but everytime I go in there he thanks me for the work, constantly, he gave me a datsun head today for free, had some story about a guy that tried to take it on a plane at the portland airport, they wouldn't let him, so he left it behind and never claimed it, so one of the relatives of AC(owner of the machine shop) that works at the airport brought it to the shop and left it there. Weird thing is, it's a W58 closed chamber head, now I have two of them. While I was looking around the shop I seen 9 brand new L9 blocks, it was weird seeing that, 3 stacks of three, the main caps look strong compared to the chevy 350 small block V8 that I am used to seeing. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 I picked up the engine today, that was an adventure, see this link for the story. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/33313-trying-to-bleed-my-brakes/ I don't know what it should cost to do all what the shop did for me, but they bought everything needed to assemble the block, bearings, pistons(Z24) and all asso. with them, engine gasket set, new cam, all new valves, the valve grind, milled the head(didn't have to take much off), balanced the crank with pistons, and he assembled the block, and the head. They also drilled the oil dip stick hole for me. All this cost me $1480.00, now I have to drill the needed coolant holes in the block, and frank'n a LZ head gasket, and start putting it together without screwing anything up. :lol: Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 he assembled the block, and the head. now I have to drill the needed coolant holes in the block, and frank'n a LZ head gasket, and start putting it together without screwing anything up. :lol: :huh: is the head on the block now? you want to drill an empty block. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 They assembled the head, they did not put it on the block, as for drilling the coolant holes, i am going to do the best I can, I will mask off the piston holes, and I will run a shop vacuum while I am drilling the holes, none of the shavings will be getting near the oil jacket, block oil galley/crank/pan, or piston holes, I am going to do the best I can on keeping it out of the water jacket. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 pistons are in? mask/seal the whole top. are the freeze plugs in? most or it will blow out. not a bad price with all their labor. too bad they could drill a few holes. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Good price... Assuming the cam is running stock lash pads...? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 The lash pads are whatever they needed to be when the head was modified several years ago, 280Z valves, ported intake holes, they(the machine shop) do what is needed when it is needed, the only hic-cup I have ever had with them is when the head was modified the original time, they used brass seats, they didn't even last a year. This guy is a nice man, he mostly works on race engines, he tells me what should be done when needed, and tells me what won't work for my situation, like the cam issue, he told me I needed a stock cam in the latest head, I talked him into a RV cam, I regret it now, I lost torque, I need torque. I am sure that the followers ride on the cam correctly, he does whatever is needed, he doesn't ask, he just does it., I just ask how much after it is done. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.