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wayno's LZ22


wayno

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pistons are in?

 

mask/seal the whole top.

 

are the freeze plugs in?

most or it will blow out.

 

 

not a bad price with all their labor.

 

too bad they could drill a few holes.

 

The pistons are in, the freeze plugs are in, and I asked if he was sure that included everything, I thought it would be more that $1480.00 I thought about having them drill the block coolant holes, but that would have required me to make a decision that I was unable to make at that stage, here at home I can compare the L block with the Z block side by side, and I can ask you guys also, since some of you have already done this conversion. If this gets messed up now, it is my problem, not someone elses.

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The lash pads are whatever they needed to be when the head was modified several years ago, 280Z valves, ported intake holes, they(the machine shop) do what is needed when it is needed, the only hic-cup I have ever had with them is when the head was modified the original time, they used brass seats, they didn't even last a year. This guy is a nice man, he mostly works on race engines, he tells me what should be done when needed, and tells me what won't work for my situation, like the cam issue, he told me I needed a stock cam in the latest head, I talked him into a RV cam, I regret it now, I lost torque, I need torque. I am sure that the followers ride on the cam correctly, he does whatever is needed, he doesn't ask, he just does it., I just ask how much after it is done.

 

I was wondering about the pads because the size/thickness would of somewhat indicated stock or aftermarket cam.

An RV cam should of increased bottom end torque????

 

Did you use a drill or drill press?

 

Was gonna....but I couldn't lift it into the engine bay by myself....to heavy and cumbersome ;)

Actually....I just used a drill.

The piece of wood on block was just used for a 90 degree reference when drilling.

I wanted to center the holes between the outside of the block and the cylinder walls....this actually moved the the holes on the HG closer to the cylinder wall.

The holes in the block also matched the wider part of the water passage in the head.

If you notice the passages in the head are oblong/wedged shaped....so now...the coolant flows through the wider part of the head holes.

There are 2 holes for each cylinder.....the farther apart they are, the more meat on the block and HG to work with.

 

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The longer the duration the valve is open, the higher the rpm needs to be to utilize the exchanged power. What I mean by "the exchanged power" is, the longer duration cams take away power from the lower rpms(torque), and add that power to the higher rpms. I had giant valves put in the head 10 years ago, I beleave that is like using a higher lift cam, but the duration is the same, so the torque stays the same, or maybe better as it breaths better, but at lower rpms it breaths fine anyway with stock valves. All I know is I have two W53 heads now, one with stock valves and one with giant valves, the big valved head on the same block kicks the stock valved heads ass on the hiway, that wore out L20b with that big valved head that had run out of valve adjustment on #3 cylinder, that used a gallon of oil every couple weeks, kicked that fresh long blocks ass, keep in mind that the fresh head on that tight block had a RV cam also, and it was ported to match the SU intake also, but so was the wore out head with the stock cam and big valves. I know that if there are no Oics. it didn't happen, heres the proof.

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Wayno

Cant believe it hit the piston! all my cams are over 460lift and never seen this.

 

maybe was off a tooth or soemthing?

 

That motor looks good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! kinda funky looking valves underneath

 

 

longer duration cams I would start at #2 or then try number 3. for street motors

 

 

I am not sure what your talking about hainz, what hit the piston? I know the valves look differant, but they are from a 280Z. I am running a stock cam, which on a L20b block is #2 on the cam gear I beleave, as I am setting this engine up just like an L20b block.

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hand drill.

the first was scary, the rest went like butter!

 

 

those valves are HUGE! :cool:

 

They are big, aren't they. I don't beleave that a larger valve can be put in, as the valves would be over lapping like the valve seats are now.

 

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Butter huh, I was looking at the head water passages in the Z block head gasket and noticed that the L head is missing 4 water passages that the Z block head has, the photos below shows the 4 missing passages in the head I'm talking about, I have not heard about you guys drilling the head, what's up? Is this an issue?

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I was noticing that in the first photo that the hole in the center of the photo isn't lining up to well in the head gasket sitting on the block, but the second photo it lines up perfect sitting on the head, do any of you guys do anything about this? I am going to have to go back and look, but what size holes were you drilling in the block? It was seven of them I beleave, the 8th one is there, but it is kinda small, is that the size hole?

DSCN0607.jpg

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Butter huh, I was looking at the head water passages in the Z block head gasket and noticed that the L head is missing 4 water passages that the Z block head has, the photos below shows the 4 missing passages in the head I'm talking about, I have not heard about you guys drilling the head, what's up? Is this an issue?

 

That is normal....

Here is mine.

 

P5040024.jpg

 

Didn't use this HG....but....same brand (felpro) that's on my engine.

Used a laminate trimmer and made the holes....a little too large.

What make of HG are you using?

You are using the dowels to line up the HG?

 

I was noticing that in the first photo that the hole in the center of the photo isn't lining up to well in the head gasket sitting on the block, but the second photo it lines up perfect sitting on the head, do any of you guys do anything about this? I am going to have to go back and look, but what size holes were you drilling in the block? It was seven of them I beleave, the 8th one is there, but it is kinda small, is that the size hole?

 

I used a 1/4 inch bit.

The 8th hole is there...in the block and HG...never touched them.

A little off center....but will still work

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I don't know why photobucket won't put the pictures in the order I pick them, this is the block marked where to drill the holes

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The modified head gasket

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The marked drill holes

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Block drilled

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I cut the gasket back a little in the center hole

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Holes drilled cylinders 1 & 2

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Holes drilled cylinders 3 & 4

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While I was drilling the first hole the bit broke, turns out there isn't a lot of room in there, any bigger drill bit and it would have been cutting into the cylinder walls, it is tight in there. I'm not sure what to do about the head gasket now, in modifying it I took some of the softer sealing(??) material off with my fingers, and the thing is warped right out of the box. I don't think I drilled any bad/improper holes as I stuck a long screw driver down the front 4 holes and was able to see it, I also was able to see the bottom, and did not see any metal shavings from the drilling, I used a shop vacuum with two motors, I couldn't hear the drill. :lol: Hainz, the pistons came the way you see them.

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I totally spaced on the front one, thankyou for pointing that out. I have a feeling I am going to have to do another headgasket as so much of the soft part of the gasket has come off, I will look at it closer tomarrow with fresh eyes.

 

 

Ya...and don't forget about the 'large oblong' at the back of the block...?

I doubt the soft part will compromise the HG from sealing....you are talking about the outer surface?

 

I guess that is relative to the amount that is MIA

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I am having to manhandle the head gasket, everytime I cut into it I am hitting metal wires inside the material, I have been using a dremel, none of the heads like the wires. I noticed the forgotten oblong hole first, then when that was done I re-read your post, one in the front?? I got the L20b gasket back out and placed it on top of the Z gasket, I seen that hole before, but it looked like a dead end hole like a couple small ones in the middle of the block, but I realized it was not a dead end, that hole comes out above the main water jacket access for the water pump on the front of the block just below the head. The reason I worry about the missing material is it's all around the water jacket holes, but I think it will happen again trying to make another one. How does everybody else make there holes? I have a drill press with many differant speeds. I don't want to clamp the gasket down because when it is un-clamped gasket material will likely come off when loosening/lifting clamp, board, ect. from the gasket. The missing material is an even amount on the surface in general, not chunks and gouges. This is all new to me, i like doing stuff like this because it gives me something else to forget instead of my name.:lol: wayno :lol: :lol:

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I am having to manhandle the head gasket, everytime I cut into it I am hitting metal wires inside the material, I have been using a dremel, none of the heads like the wires. I noticed the forgotten oblong hole first, then when that was done I re-read your post, one in the front?? I got the L20b gasket back out and placed it on top of the Z gasket, I seen that hole before, but it looked like a dead end hole like a couple small ones in the middle of the block, but I realized it was not a dead end, that hole comes out above the main water jacket access for the water pump on the front of the block just below the head. The reason I worry about the missing material is it's all around the water jacket holes, but I think it will happen again trying to make another one. How does everybody else make there holes? I have a drill press with many differant speeds. I don't want to clamp the gasket down because when it is un-clamped gasket material will likely come off when loosening/lifting clamp, board, ect. from the gasket. The missing material is an even amount on the surface in general, not chunks and gouges. This is all new to me, i like doing stuff like this because it gives me something else to forget instead of my name.:lol: wayno :lol: :lol:

 

 

If the HG doesn't have any backing behind it when drilling and or.....it will just blow out on the backside and fray the edges

I clamped a couple of pieces of wood together....makes a rather clean hole

 

http://community.rat...t/page__st__420 .... Scroll down.

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I went down to the machine shop to find my oil dipstick, while I was there I asked AC something about an oil pump, he got that look of someone seeing pictures in there head, he walked over to some shelves and moved some stuff and handed me the dipstick, then he grabbed a box and opened it and said, "I thought I ordered a kit with the oil pump in it", and he then handed me the box, SCORE. I was going to buy that today I said. I stopped at the auto parts store and ordered a timing chain kit, comes with everything, will pick it up tomarrow. BTW, he told me that the head gasket I have is the best money can buy, some thing about tri layered metal head gasket.

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Looks good...careful on leaning the engine on the rear cam tower.

Would imagine your chain is rather tight...being that the left guide is fully extended...top and bottom.

I backed the top off a bit....didn't make any diff on the position/extension of the tensioner

 

Someone scribe the notches in the thrust plate...?.....(pic in your other thread)

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