wayno's LZ22

[wayno]

I don't know what is up with the plate, maybe it is upside down or backwards or a multi postion plate, I am reluctant to pull it apart to see, as I eyed the cam timing on the last engine I put together and it runs fine. The distributer rotor is where it is supposed to be, the cam lobes are at 10am and 2 pm on #1 cylinder, and the crank is at TDC. I am wondering if I need to drop the oil pump and prime it before I start it. The timing chain doesn't seem to be tight to me, but what do I know, I have never had new guides before, I just set it up to where it looked like it would ride the smoothest, and to change it now I would have to pull it apart. I might be able to get to the top adjuster by removing the front cover, how important is it, I cannot get to the lower nut.

[Sealik]

I don't know what is up with the plate, maybe it is upside down or backwards or a multi postion plate, I am reluctant to pull it apart to see, as I eyed the cam timing on the last engine I put together and it runs fine. The distributer rotor is where it is supposed to be, the cam lobes are at 10am and 2 pm on #1 cylinder, and the crank is at TDC. I am wondering if I need to drop the oil pump and prime it before I start it. The timing chain doesn't seem to be tight to me, but what do I know, I have never had new guides before, I just set it up to where it looked like it would ride the smoothest, and to change it now I would have to pull it apart. I might be able to get to the top adjuster by removing the front cover, how important is it, I cannot get to the lower nut.

 

If it's assembled don't worry about it I guess....but...will also be a bitch if you decide to remove/replace the sprocket in the near future.

Install oil pump with no spindle....with dizzy removed, spin pump with extended bit on drill through TC cover....

like this....

 

[wayno]

I can do that, it's a good thing i put gasket sealant on only one side of the oil pump gasket just in case of something like this. So it is important to pime the oil pump? I have the block of wood under the head now instead of the cam tower. I have never built a L block before, only the R16, and U20, I seem to have come by low milage L blocks at the right time in the past, but this time I am looking for a little more power all around, I hope this makes a differance, as this one is more cubic inches with the big valves. I have a Z20s in the shed that runs good, and two running L20bs, but the one has an U67 head on it.

[RedBanner]

Hey wayno, do have a barn covered in sighns? Thought I saw your truck.

[wayno]

Hey wayno, do have a barn covered in sighns? Thought I saw your truck.

 

Are you talking about that place on 78th st? No that's not me. Which truck you see?

[hang_510]

So it is important to pime the oil pump?

YES!

[banzai510(hainz)]

Yes is VERY Imported to prime the pump. otherwise the air cavities in there will not create a suction.

 

I just fill the pump with oil turn it so you see the oil in both holes. PUT back in ztop Desd center with dimple lined up.

 

sometimes I route a hose from the oil filter opening and pump oil up to that spot.

also dont be throwing the moto around after the oil is in there so it dont run out of the pump.( like taking photos as you did on its back side.

 

 

PS your timming chain is perfect in my opinion nice and tight.I pour oil over the cam and downtr the front cover chain and should be fine on startt up.

I prime the fuelpump and carb so it squirts with the accell pump and should start right up

[wayno]

There are no accell. pumps Hainz, I am running dual SU type carbs. I will prime it in the truck, I will make some kind of rod like in one of the earlier posts. I did not have the equipment to lift the engine on to an engine stand, so I rebuilt the engine on the floor, and moved it around with a dolly.

[wayno]

IT'S ALIVE, I put the LZ22 engine in the work truck today, I had some issues with the distributer timing, but after a few tries I got it right, and it started right up. I also had an issue with the oilpan, somehow I ended up with a 620 oilpan, everything was fine till I tried reconnecting the idlers, I drop them so I can move the engine forward without having to lift it very high, the freaking pan was wrong, what a pain in the arse that was, I learned how to R&R the oilpan without moving the engine or removing the cross brace below it. Can any of you figure out how I did that? I primed the oil pump only, and it didn't take long for the oil light to go out. What do you guys plug the Z block oil dipstick hole with? I totally forgot about that hole. I needed spark plugs and the ones in the engine I removed were fairly new, I looked at all of them as I removed them, they were all whiteish-yellow, never got it tuned that good before. The engine I removed is going in the 66 520 project, it runs good, just doesn't have the power to haul the trailer around.

[hang_510]

did you get it up to temp and break it in?

 

 

tap that hole?

 

 

 

 

 

maybe try when the pans off again? :unsure:

[wayno]

did you get it up to temp and break it in?

 

 

tap that hole?

 

 

 

 

 

maybe try when the pans off again? :unsure:

 

Yes it got up to temp, as for breaking it in, I drove it around the block a couple of times, never got it out of third gear, my machinist says just to drive it normally, he says the stuff sold is so good nowdays, that they break themselves in. How would you break it in? I don't plan on removing the pan again, I just hope it don't leak.

[hang_510]

initial above 2500 rpms to temp, change oil & filter.

no sustained hign rpms for 500mi or so, change oil & filter.

drive the shit out of it! :w00t:

 

 

 

leak from the dip stick?

 

try JB weld now

[wayno]

I seen the oil soaking the side of the block behind the header, but not enough to soak the ground, so I shut the engine off, found a 12mm inch long bolt, I found a thin rubber hose slightly smaller than the bolt, threaded the bolt into the hose half way, stuck it into the hole and turned the bolt for a while, then taped on the bolt with a piece of rebar and it tightly went into the hole. I am now hoping that the rubber/plastic hose don't melt or something, but it quit leaking. I have a trip to renton wa. coming this saterday, I was thinking about driving it up there and back, then changing the filter and oil. this would be a 3 to 4 hundred mile trip with no heavy load, the truck normally is under a load everyday. What do you consider high RPMs? I rarely go over 4000 rpms ever, my average rpm is 3500 rpms on the highway.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I broke mine in , I just drove the MOFO as normal. I didnt even cha ge the oil right away.

 

My Import l18 had the hole in block I find a metal plug and pounded it in, No oil leaks.

 

 

New motors might run hotter. so watch the temp. as they are tight.

[Jester]

I broke mine in , I just drove the MOFO as normal. I didnt even cha ge the oil right away.

That's it. Drive it!!!

 

 

 

My Import l18 had the hole in block I find a metal plug and pounded it in, No oil leaks.

 

Exactly what I was thinking. Maybe see if you could find a small freeze plug to put in it. I think the Pontiac V8's had a couple small oil (freeze plug style) plugs behind the flywheel from the factory. Might see if they would fit.

[dat521gatherer]

I just seen this engine in person. Nice work Wayno. That power steering setup is cool. Sorry I didn't have more time to talk. I assume it passed the big test?

[wayno]

I made it home, the speedo needle broke off, it was reading wrong, when I was going about 70-75mph it was showing/bouncing off 100 mph, so when I took it up to around 85-90 mph once, at least whatever speed 5000rpm is with 437 gears in the rear with P195/75R14 tires on the rear axle, I am sure one of you can figure out how fast I was going. :lol: BTW, that was the last time I ever seen the speedo needle. :lol: The temp senser started screwing up again for a while on the way back, but by that time I didn't figure it was going to overheat anyway, but I stopped and bought a oil filter and a water temp senser for it on the way home. Someone told me I needed to have it under compression going down hill to break in the rings properly, is this true? My little trip to break it in was 350+ miles, but the truck was not loaded, it was empty, tomarrow I need to load it for a job. I hope it is broke in enough for a load. The truck has some zip to it, normally going up hills on the freeway with the L20b, I was unable to pass anyone going the speed limit unless I was floored, no problem today, and I wasn't even close to flooring it. Whats really amazing to me is the way I drive, I am usually lucky to get 17 mpg, once I recall I got 19, well today I got over 20 mpg going 70 to 80, this truck is a dually, and it is 79" wide, it's real areodynamic. :lol: :lol: :lol: So how soon should I change the oil guys, there is less than 400 miles on it.

[Sealik]

I would of changed it after 50 miles

Did mine at 50....200 and 450....filter included

Went to a heavier oil at 450

[Sealik]

I also adjusted the valve lash 4 times and checked the compression prior and during the break in.

OCD..... :D

[banzai510(hainz)]

I also adjusted the valve lash 4 times and checked the compression prior and during the break in.

OCD.....

 

I never do!!!!!!!! I wait till it goes bad and do it on the side of the road.

 

 

Ywayno

Its broke in. if its going to break it would have already. Only thing hope the rings were gapped correctly otherwise I think your good to go.

Maybe find a cheap used Weber 38/38 and put on , unless you got some working SUs

 

als if you change a water sender ,trying to remove that 16mm hex nut holder is a bitch and usually breaks the housing. I have new spare housings in case they break. or use another sapre lower housing with a good sender

[wayno]

I am running dual SU type carbs now Hainz, I will change the water temp senser today. Has anybody ever done a retork, that was an issue with the Z blocks, is that now an inherited issue for me?

[Jester]

20 on a fresh engine would be real nice in a month or so when the rings start seating good. Should bet a little better. Glad to hear that it is up and doing well.

On a fresh rebuild, I have always changed the oil after initial break in of the cam and again after 500 miles. I just don't like leaving the break in lube in there any longer than needed. Technically, it's done it's job as soon as you shut the rig off for the first time. After that, just change it as you normally would.

Now, how about some pics?

[wayno]

20 on a fresh engine would be real nice in a month or so when the rings start seating good. Should bet a little better. Glad to hear that it is up and doing well.

On a fresh rebuild, I have always changed the oil after initial break in of the cam and again after 500 miles. I just don't like leaving the break in lube in there any longer than needed. Technically, it's done it's job as soon as you shut the rig off for the first time. After that, just change it as you normally would.

Now, how about some pics?

 

I thought about the oics. but I didn't clean anything, I had one day to get it done, so I cleaned what needed to be cleaned to prevent leaks, it's still just a dirty engine compartment, but here you are.

 

[wayno]

I have been driving my work truck normally with the new LZ22 engine in it, it's a differant truck, where the fresh L20b was struggling the LZ22 is not, where I had to downshift into first going up a hill before, I now gain speed in second with the LZ22, I have not had it going down the freeway yet, but I will tomarrow.

[Sealik]

I have been driving my work truck normally with the new LZ22 engine in it, it's a differant truck, where the fresh L20b was struggling the LZ22 is not, where I had to downshift into first going up a hill before, I now gain speed in second with the LZ22, I have not had it going down the freeway yet, but I will tomarrow.

 

 

You mean.....LZ23

Correct?