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My wagon is dead


datrod

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O.K. so the last couple time I have taken the wagon out it has been acting funny. The radio won't stay on and the lights would go dim when at a stop. I would put my battery charger on when I get home and it takes about 5 minutes to get a full charge. That tells me the battery is not to bad.

 

Drove it to the Torrance meet last night about 50 miles one way. Ran fine all the way down. But I noticed the lights would go dim when I put the brakes on. Well on the way home after I got off the fwy when I came to a stop the car would just about die then back fire a little. I made it to my driveway and when I stoped the car just died. And at that point I had nothing, No lights or power. Put the charger on it and it had a full charge in just a couple minutes. But the car had nothing.

 

What the hell is going on here?

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I am having the same problum with my 82 mazda b2000. I think the wireing is gust going to crap. I would start by looking for a bad ground wire. but other than that I dont know hopfuly some one else on here will have more ideas. I think im going to rewire my ,mazda with a wireing ket.

 

 

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does it charge fast or was it even dead? I have been driving my mazda daily for a year with it doing this and have the same bat, alt. and regulator. all checked out good. has never left me stranded yet.

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get the battery tested to check if it is holding a charge then check the alternator with a meter and it should be putting out 12v+ and then turn on the lights. normally the voltage will drop but should come back up but if it does not the alternator is not charging. and yes don't forget about the voltage reulator

 

you may have to replace the battery at the same time as once a battery gets drained it can cause it from holding a charge meaning it is done for its service life

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Sounds more like a bad connection. Once running your car should be able to keep running sans battery. If your alternator can't keep up with the electrical draw of everything in your car and relies on your battery, then your battery is going to fail inevitably and you should be looking at getting a higher output alternator anyways. That said, lead acid batteries can fail in ways that can cause weird symptoms, but they don't usually test at normal voltage at the same time.

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If the bat charges fast it uisualy means it's bad .

 

I don't think the battery was even dead. Hence the quick charge. But when I get home I'll pull it out and have it checked.

I know a battery can fail super fast. It is a new battery, As well as the alt, regulator, But I'm going to have them all checked just for the hell of it.

I don't see any burnt wires and they all look to be tight and in good condition.

 

Thanks guys.

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I had the same problem on my goon.

 

I ended up taking out the whole engine harness and unwrapping it and cleaning every single connecter and "T" connection on the wiring,

and triple checking all the grounds.

 

 

never had any problems after that.

 

 

lol pick up a roll of electrical tape and a bottle of vinegar while your out

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I had the same problem on my goon.

 

I ended up taking out the whole engine harness and unwrapping it and cleaning every single connecter and "T" connection on the wiring,

and triple checking all the grounds.

 

 

never had any problems after that.

 

 

lol pick up a roll of electrical tape and a bottle of vinegar while your out

This. Old Datsun wiring SUCKS, especially the fuse box. Not to say it's worse than anything else of the period, but compared to modern fuse boxes and connectors, it blows. One product that you can use on poorly weather sealed connections (eg battery terminals and any other old Datsun connection or set-screw type terminal) is Noalox. It's good stuff - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019KHHRE/ref=wms_ohs_product_C . Just start with a fresh, clean connection before you apply it, as it's not going to clean up old oxidation/corrosion.

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I had the same problem on my goon.

 

I ended up taking out the whole engine harness and unwrapping it and cleaning every single connecter and "T" connection on the wiring,

and triple checking all the grounds.

 

 

never had any problems after that.

 

 

lol pick up a roll of electrical tape and a bottle of vinegar while your out

 

Thanks Skip. I'm gonna try that when I get home.

 

 

This. Old Datsun wiring SUCKS, especially the fuse box. Not to say it's worse than anything else of the period, but compared to modern fuse boxes and connectors, it blows. One product that you can use on poorly weather sealed connections (eg battery terminals and any other old Datsun connection or set-screw type terminal) is Noalox. It's good stuff - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019KHHRE/ref=wms_ohs_product_C . Just start with a fresh, clean connection before you apply it, as it's not going to clean up old oxidation/corrosion.

 

 

Thanks matt. I'll look for some.

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Alternator in my 83 280zx went bad and i just put new one in and there was almost two volt drop between b+ on alt and battery.Super loose corroded terminal hidden in the, loom and tape, between the two.It is probably what killed alternator the first time ( or maybe ) it`s just that time of year.wink.gif

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So now the car will start. But if I turn on the lights it makes the stereo shut off for a few seconds. Then If I use a blinker it will do the same thing. (with the car running)

 

I'm thinking regulator. I pulled the plug off and just like a few have said. Kinda green down in the plug. So I'm going to clean them with skips idea.

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Get a cheap Chinese $5 volt meter.

 

Check across the battery terminals. Should be 12.3 or so.

Start motor. Should be over 14.

 

This can't be fixed by running around changing shit. Some testing and answers need to be done first. Does the charge light come on when running???

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Check your grounds!!!!

 

I had a similar problem a week or so back where I went to start my car and when I turned the key, EVERYTHING went out. Hell, the increased resistance from the corroded ground even blew my fuse on my ignition control circuit. After playing around I found the ground wire was corroded at the battery clamp. I cut and stripped back the wire and it was immediately evident that was the problem.

 

It was easy to find since I just had to grab a multi meter and check for 12V at the ground.

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Get a cheap Chinese $5 volt meter.

 

Check across the battery terminals. Should be 12.3 or so.

Start motor. Should be over 14.

 

This can't be fixed by running around changing shit. Some testing and answers need to be done first. Does the charge light come on when running???

 

I've been wating for you to post. (no charge lite on when the car is running) I'm on my way to pick up a volt meter.

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