datrod Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 O.K. so the last couple time I have taken the wagon out it has been acting funny. The radio won't stay on and the lights would go dim when at a stop. I would put my battery charger on when I get home and it takes about 5 minutes to get a full charge. That tells me the battery is not to bad. Drove it to the Torrance meet last night about 50 miles one way. Ran fine all the way down. But I noticed the lights would go dim when I put the brakes on. Well on the way home after I got off the fwy when I came to a stop the car would just about die then back fire a little. I made it to my driveway and when I stoped the car just died. And at that point I had nothing, No lights or power. Put the charger on it and it had a full charge in just a couple minutes. But the car had nothing. What the hell is going on here? Quote Link to comment
darin620 Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 I am having the same problum with my 82 mazda b2000. I think the wireing is gust going to crap. I would start by looking for a bad ground wire. but other than that I dont know hopfuly some one else on here will have more ideas. I think im going to rewire my ,mazda with a wireing ket. Quote Link to comment
fivetenguy Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Maybe your alternator or voltage regulator? Check your battery with a voltmeter when your car is idle. You should have 13VDC to 14VDC. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 If the bat charges fast it uisualy means it's bad . Quote Link to comment
darin620 Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 does it charge fast or was it even dead? I have been driving my mazda daily for a year with it doing this and have the same bat, alt. and regulator. all checked out good. has never left me stranded yet. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Clean your battery terminals. Then report back. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 get a volt tester, test the battery off, then when car is on. then hit the lights etc... could be bat, alt/volt reg dying out Quote Link to comment
benzo Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 get the battery tested to check if it is holding a charge then check the alternator with a meter and it should be putting out 12v+ and then turn on the lights. normally the voltage will drop but should come back up but if it does not the alternator is not charging. and yes don't forget about the voltage reulator you may have to replace the battery at the same time as once a battery gets drained it can cause it from holding a charge meaning it is done for its service life Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Sounds more like a bad connection. Once running your car should be able to keep running sans battery. If your alternator can't keep up with the electrical draw of everything in your car and relies on your battery, then your battery is going to fail inevitably and you should be looking at getting a higher output alternator anyways. That said, lead acid batteries can fail in ways that can cause weird symptoms, but they don't usually test at normal voltage at the same time. Quote Link to comment
datrod Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Clean your battery terminals. Then report back. :lol: I'm not quite that lame. Quote Link to comment
datrod Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 If the bat charges fast it uisualy means it's bad . I don't think the battery was even dead. Hence the quick charge. But when I get home I'll pull it out and have it checked. I know a battery can fail super fast. It is a new battery, As well as the alt, regulator, But I'm going to have them all checked just for the hell of it. I don't see any burnt wires and they all look to be tight and in good condition. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 I had the same problem on my goon. I ended up taking out the whole engine harness and unwrapping it and cleaning every single connecter and "T" connection on the wiring, and triple checking all the grounds. never had any problems after that. lol pick up a roll of electrical tape and a bottle of vinegar while your out Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 I had the same problem on my goon. I ended up taking out the whole engine harness and unwrapping it and cleaning every single connecter and "T" connection on the wiring, and triple checking all the grounds. never had any problems after that. lol pick up a roll of electrical tape and a bottle of vinegar while your out This. Old Datsun wiring SUCKS, especially the fuse box. Not to say it's worse than anything else of the period, but compared to modern fuse boxes and connectors, it blows. One product that you can use on poorly weather sealed connections (eg battery terminals and any other old Datsun connection or set-screw type terminal) is Noalox. It's good stuff - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019KHHRE/ref=wms_ohs_product_C . Just start with a fresh, clean connection before you apply it, as it's not going to clean up old oxidation/corrosion. Quote Link to comment
datrod Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 I had the same problem on my goon. I ended up taking out the whole engine harness and unwrapping it and cleaning every single connecter and "T" connection on the wiring, and triple checking all the grounds. never had any problems after that. lol pick up a roll of electrical tape and a bottle of vinegar while your out Thanks Skip. I'm gonna try that when I get home. This. Old Datsun wiring SUCKS, especially the fuse box. Not to say it's worse than anything else of the period, but compared to modern fuse boxes and connectors, it blows. One product that you can use on poorly weather sealed connections (eg battery terminals and any other old Datsun connection or set-screw type terminal) is Noalox. It's good stuff - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019KHHRE/ref=wms_ohs_product_C . Just start with a fresh, clean connection before you apply it, as it's not going to clean up old oxidation/corrosion. Thanks matt. I'll look for some. Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Alternator in my 83 280zx went bad and i just put new one in and there was almost two volt drop between b+ on alt and battery.Super loose corroded terminal hidden in the, loom and tape, between the two.It is probably what killed alternator the first time ( or maybe ) it`s just that time of year. Quote Link to comment
datrod Posted March 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 So now the car will start. But if I turn on the lights it makes the stereo shut off for a few seconds. Then If I use a blinker it will do the same thing. (with the car running) I'm thinking regulator. I pulled the plug off and just like a few have said. Kinda green down in the plug. So I'm going to clean them with skips idea. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 perfect time to go IR alt too :lol: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Get a cheap Chinese $5 volt meter. Check across the battery terminals. Should be 12.3 or so. Start motor. Should be over 14. This can't be fixed by running around changing shit. Some testing and answers need to be done first. Does the charge light come on when running??? Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Check your grounds!!!! I had a similar problem a week or so back where I went to start my car and when I turned the key, EVERYTHING went out. Hell, the increased resistance from the corroded ground even blew my fuse on my ignition control circuit. After playing around I found the ground wire was corroded at the battery clamp. I cut and stripped back the wire and it was immediately evident that was the problem. It was easy to find since I just had to grab a multi meter and check for 12V at the ground. Quote Link to comment
datrod Posted March 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Get a cheap Chinese $5 volt meter. Check across the battery terminals. Should be 12.3 or so. Start motor. Should be over 14. This can't be fixed by running around changing shit. Some testing and answers need to be done first. Does the charge light come on when running??? I've been wating for you to post. (no charge lite on when the car is running) I'm on my way to pick up a volt meter. Quote Link to comment
datrod Posted March 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 With the car off 12.63 volts. With the car running 12.58 volts Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Your alternator is not working. It might be the voltage regulator, the alternator, or the wiring. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Check the voltage off of the positive on the alt . Quote Link to comment
darin620 Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 have you checked all your ground wire under the hood and under the dash allong with any other grounds it may have? Quote Link to comment
datrod Posted March 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Check the voltage off of the positive on the alt . 12.98 off the alt. Quote Link to comment
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