Few questions about rebuilding an A14

[Flashing_Banana]

Hello all,

My name is Nick. I am the proud owner of a 76 B210, stock for the most part. I'm the 4th owner of this little beast. The first owners bought it new and had it till the first tranny service. Second owner drove it for about 420k miles and stocked up on all sorts of parts. Third owner had it for about a month, then was forced to sell it. Now I have it and I must say, with this thing fighting me when it's cold, either the weather or itself, I couldn't be much happier with it.

The second owner was a real Datsun fanatic, or he just truly loved this car. He grabbed whatever parts he could on this car. I'll take pics and list everything later, way to many things to cover in one post. But, I have a short block which has recently, in the engines life, been rebuilt. I don't know anything about this block, other than it's another A14 and has been used in another car. The timing chain looks new, no sludge in the pan and caked on carbon on the inside of the block. The cylinders have no ridge on them, so it's either very low miles, or it's been bored out and has matching pistons and rings. I think it's the latter because of the chain. I also took off a main cap and connecting rod cap, I know, with the my luck they were fine, but I checked anyway. About half of the surface still looks new, has that matte tan look, and I can see 2 more layers. I'll take pics tomorrow when the sun comes up.

I've been told that sense I removed the torque/pressure on the bearings that I would have to buy new ones. If I have to, then I will. In fact, I would feel more comfortable about it. The only thing is, if it's been bored out, then there's a chance that the crank has been polished and would need over sized bearings. Besides I need to take that block apart to clean out some of the rust from the coolent passages and the grime on the outside. Plus I think theres dirt shoved in the heater tube that sticks out of the block. So if I'm going to clean it, I'll at the very least need to rent a cam bearing remover tool. Any chance that I would be able to reuse those?

I know I'll come up with more things in due time, or if someone replies and gets my mind working correctly again. Oh, I know the carb needs to be rebuilt, I'm not entirely sure the secondaries are pumping fuel. I know if I put it in drive, yes I have the crappy three speed, and pull the hand break. I can get the car under a load and get the secondaries to open up. They open, just no fuel that i can see.

I plan on having this car till the day it rusts apart or something causes me to get rid of it.

 

 

[Skib]

the picture to word ratio in this thread is way off

[Flashing_Banana]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Guess this would help huh? Like I said, my mind's not workin too well right now.

[Skib]

thats gorgeous man :cool:

[]2eDeYe]

Nice :cool:

 

Welcome aboard. :D

[Flashing_Banana]

Guess I should use a different light with a better camera. There really isn't any sludge to be concerned about. A thorough scrubbing is in order anyway.

 

 

 

All the nice innards, just some caked on oil, again, scrubbing in order.

 

 

 

 

 

Oil pump screen is nice and clean.

 

 

 

 

 

Near the top of the bearing, you can see that matte tan protective, stuff? Bearing looks lightly worn to me, would it be alright to reuse it?

 

 

 

 

 

I know i need to use a different light source, but the chain and crank are spotless.

 

 

 

 

 

What is this little shield? It's on the rear, right side. It seems to be held in place with 2 philips.

 

 

 

 

 

Best part I mentioned in my first post, the second owner was some sort of fanatic, here you see an extra rear end, driveshaft, bumper, bumper ends, leaf springs, an extra cat in good shape, drums and rotors which I think to be out of spec, and on the drive shaft theres some extra trim.

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the majority of the other parts, I need to take them all out and figure out what I really have. I know there's a new alternator and starter, an extra exhaust manifold, some fans/blowers, the plastic that goes between the rear windows, extra smog pump, some electrics I'm not sure of, a whole valve train minus the lifters and push rods, and much more. Not in this pic is the other front struts, intermediate exhaust pipe, from the mani to cat, whole steering setup minus the box. Like I said, I need to take it all out and pretty much catalog it. I know this car is worth keeping from the love and attention the previous owner had for this little car. I can only hope I can put nearly as much love back into it!

[freaky510]

nice intro !!! welcome killer ride

[bananahamuck]

 

 

 

Best part I mentioned in my first post, the second owner was some sort of fanatic, here you see an extra rear end, driveshaft, bumper, bumper ends, leaf springs, an extra cat in good shape, drums and rotors which I think to be out of spec, and on the drive shaft theres some extra trim.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some sort of fanatic......i know a guy that has bought something like 5 or 6 520 trucks because he couldn`t find a starter for his J motor ten or fifteen years ago.

 

With one car and enough parts to almost build another, you may well be on your way to becoming a Datsun fanatic/ lover.

 

welcome aboard!!

[DanielC]

The little shield with two holes, inside the engine crankcase is for the engine breather. on the outside of the engine is a pipe, that connects to the intake manifold, through a PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve. PCV is a good thing. leave it working. It sucks bad gases out of the engine crankcase, and burns them in the engine. It can also help your engine leak less oil.

 

The shield holds a metal screen up inside a cavity, that kind of strains liquid oil out of the PVC system, and lets the oil drain back into the crankcase, and bad gases go out of the engine.

[Flashing_Banana]

Hey, parts are good! Part cars, even better! A few years ago, there was a 510 for sale and I almost bought it, it was pumpkin orange, had some Z rims on it, clean, clean clean. The reason I didn't buy it was, I had the money, but that money was for rent, gas, and food. In that order in fact. I've been kicking myself anytime I've wanted my own car since then. Seeing as how the B210 is it's smaller brother, I thought it would be fitting for me to get it. The car plus all those parts and a $200 racing seat was $750. The guy threw the seat in for free cause he liked me.

Other than getting the short block clean and ready to drop in. I would really like a manual for it. The autos fine and all, but I have yet to actually learn how to drive stick, and I would imagine it would be easy in this small, somewhat underpowered car. I say underpowered because I don't know what it's like in fine tuned condition. I know that I burn oil faster than I should, just follow me and you shall see the blue trail I leave. Cylinder two has 60-65 psi of compression and the rest are around 155-160 psi. It's old, tired and deserves to be put to rest, so a newer heart can be transplanted!

I just looked at the short block, and yep, I can see how that long pipe in the back and that area are connected thru the block. I then looked at whats under my hood, took a bit, but I found that pipe and saw that it's connected to the carb, or just below it anyway. The second owner did all sorts of custom stuff. He redid pretty much the whole electrical harness, so any wiring diagram is kinda useless. I have a control unit for the wipers, with the wipers off, I twist the knob and they come on, slowly. So I have quite a lot of choice for speed other than the two normally. He installed an A/C unit, so I don't have a normal blower, just the air pressure from the cowl, makes cold mornings colder. He replaced the horn with two air horns and electric air pump. I have two, count TWO, electric fuel pumps with a SPDT switch to choose which one you want. With that I think this guy drove cross country or something. A starter button, I push it and the starter engages and turns the engine over, just no spark. To solve that, I put the key in, turn it to ON, flip a switch, take the key out, car's still on. Why? I haven't a clue.

Plenty of text, no pics, hmmm, what to put up.

 

 

 

How about a baby turtle?

[Skib]

 

 

How about a baby turtle?

 

 

[DanielC]

What is faster right now, the B210, or the turtle?

[datzenmike]

The cylinders have no ridge on them, so it's either very low miles, or it's been bored out and has matching pistons and rings. I think it's the latter because of the chain.

 

Nissan engines don't always wear a ridge on the cylinder so don't go by that.

 

 

I also took off a main cap and connecting rod cap, I know, with the my luck they were fine, but I checked anyway. About half of the surface still looks new, has that matte tan look, and I can see 2 more layers. I'll take pics tomorrow when the sun comes up.

I've been told that sense I removed the torque/pressure on the bearings that I would have to buy new ones.

 

Nonsense, poppycock!! If the bearings are good re-torque them properly and good to go.

 

The only thing is, if it's been bored out, then there's a chance that the crank has been polished and would need over sized bearings.

 

Cranks are never turned down unless they are damaged. A rebuild does not mean they were turned down

 

I'll at the very least need to rent a cam bearing remover tool. Any chance that I would be able to reuse those?

 

If cleaning remove the cam and clean it with the bearings in. When done blow dry and grease them and slip the cam back in.

 

. I can get the car under a load and get the secondaries to open up. They open, just no fuel that i can see.

 

If there was no fuel the motor would bog down when the secondary opens. It's fine.

[datzenmike]

I know that I burn oil faster than I should, just follow me and you shall see the blue trail I leave. Cylinder two has 60-65 psi of compression and the rest are around 155-160 psi. It's old, tired and deserves to be put to rest, so a newer heart can be transplanted!

 

Could be a bad head gasket I suppose. Squirt some oil in the spark plug hole and run the compression test again. If the numbers jump way up then the rings and in poor shape. If the numbers stay the same it's more likely a burned exhaust valve. Check the valve clearances on that cylinder, probably too tight. The valve and or seat is likely cooked but if you have a spare head that's all that's needed to get it going.

[Jassifrass]

I love the avatar picture!!!

 

 

nice car too :lol:

[Flashing_Banana]

What is faster right now, the B210, or the turtle?

My car, but you can throw a turtle pretty hard and it should be ok...

 

 

 

Nissan engines don't always wear a ridge on the cylinder so don't go by that.

Ok, dully noted. The hash marks in the cylinders look good though.

 

 

 

 

Nonsense, poppycock!! If the bearings are good re-torque them properly and good to go.

If cleaning remove the cam and clean it with the bearings in. When done blow dry and grease them and slip the cam back in.

Well, you saved me some money! Just need to look at the rest of them.

 

 

 

Cranks are never turned down unless they are damaged. A rebuild does not mean they were turned down

True, but that's why I said there's a "chance".

 

 

 

If there was no fuel the motor would bog down when the secondary opens. It's fine.

Also true, but what is the chance that it could be clogged? To get the best acceleration, I have to give it some choke. It's got a manual one, well it was auto, but the 2nd owner made it manual.

 

 

 

Could be a bad head gasket I suppose. Squirt some oil in the spark plug hole and run the compression test again. If the numbers jump way up then the rings and in poor shape. If the numbers stay the same it's more likely a burned exhaust valve. Check the valve clearances on that cylinder, probably too tight. The valve and or seat is likely cooked but if you have a spare head that's all that's needed to get it going.

Just to say about the head gasket, I don't get water/oil contamination, no bubbles in coolant and no loss of. I know about the oil squirting thing, just that the best method I have is using a funnel made of a piece of paper. I don't have a spare head either, unfortunately. Would make this whole process much easier. Well, when I do the swap, new vacuum lines, and maybe some real hoses. Right now it looks like a garden hose for the heater and for the pcv, both on the valve cover and the side of the block.

[Dguy210]

Nice looking car.

 

My car, but you can throw a turtle pretty hard and it should be ok...

 

Go with the manual swap, it will wake the car right up. The autotragic in the B210 is just really miserable.

 

Just to say about the head gasket, I don't get water/oil contamination, no bubbles in coolant and no loss of. I know about the oil squirting thing, just that the best method I have is using a funnel made of a piece of paper. I don't have a spare head either, unfortunately. Would make this whole process much easier. Well, when I do the swap, new vacuum lines, and maybe some real hoses. Right now it looks like a garden hose for the heater and for the pcv, both on the valve cover and the side of the block.

 

A turkey baster works well for squirting the oil. On the A14 (at least in my experience) burning oil/blue smoke is usually bad rings, bad valve seals, or bad pcv valve (or some combo). The other test for bad rings is to check the blowby with the engine running. I never saw alot of blue smoke with a burned valve, but that can vary. Loss of compression and blue smoke seems like a higher likelihood of bad rings.

[Flashing_Banana]

Nice looking car.

 

 

 

Go with the manual swap, it will wake the car right up. The autotragic in the B210 is just really miserable.

 

 

 

A turkey baster works well for squirting the oil. On the A14 (at least in my experience) burning oil/blue smoke is usually bad rings, bad valve seals, or bad pcv valve (or some combo). The other test for bad rings is to check the blowby with the engine running. I never saw alot of blue smoke with a burned valve, but that can vary. Loss of compression and blue smoke seems like a higher likelihood of bad rings.

 

 

Go with the manual swap, it will wake the car right up. The autotragic in the B210 is just really miserable.

I beleive a wire broke of the full throttle switch too. First only goes to about 28-32, so I generally drive it "manually". I can kinda feel it start to pull around 32-40, only with my foot welded to the foor, peak torque is at 38 right? I've read how the swap is done on here. I don't think it's all that hard to swap, I hope. In the states is there a good place to get one? If I get one, where would be a good place to get a rebuild kit?

 

 

A turkey baster works well for squirting the oil. On the A14 (at least in my experience) burning oil/blue smoke is usually bad rings, bad valve seals, or bad pcv valve (or some combo). The other test for bad rings is to check the blowby with the engine running. I never saw alot of blue smoke with a burned valve, but that can vary. Loss of compression and blue smoke seems like a higher likelihood of bad rings.

 

 

I guess I could get a cheap turkey baster and make it work. I also took off my oil cap and put a piece of tissue paper there and all it did was flutter, should probably check again. Since I only have one head, I would like to use it without spending a bunch to get it redone. Mill it to flush, valve job, and replace the valve seals. I know the head has been redone once, I'll need to find the paper saying when.

[Flashing_Banana]

The A14 in my B210 is getting old and burning oil at about 1 quart for every 100 miles. I think it's time to build up the short block I have thats sitting collecting dust. First, I may get some people aggravated due to this being posted before, well, sorry. I have short block that has no ridge/lip at the top of the cylinder, I have been told that there are times when this won't tell you the miles on some Datsun/Nissan engines. I only have a dial caliper for any sort of "precise" measurements, so I have my fingers crossed. I took off the first main cap and the second rod cap. The bearings look good to me, no major scoring or anything.

 

 

I only checked those two bearings, and measured the con rod pin. I measured it a few times and it was ~1.78in. According to my service manual, that means that one pin has not been ground down. What would be the chances of having any others ground down? I would only imagine if one was bad, that they would grind the whole thing, unless the owner was a cheap ass.

 

I need to tear that block down so I can give it a good thorough scrubbing. Which I believe I shall enjoy, cleaning and painting it and making it look purtty. If the rest of the bearings on the short block look the same can I just reuse the same bearings? I've heard conflicting stories, so I would just like to get some input on that. Speaking of bearings, the only ones I'm really concerned about are the cam bearings. I don't think that they are in bad condition or anything, just that I have 3 different cams, but only one set of lifters. I was planing on using the valve train in the running A14 in the short block because every things already worn in, cam and lifters and whatnot. The short block has what looks like a new timing chain on it, so thats staying. I also have a valve train minus the lifters in a box. I'm not sure of the condition of that because of the dust caked on the oil residue. Wouldn't hurt cleaning it up I guess.

 

I only have one head and it's in the car right now. Planned on getting it milled, if needed, a valve job and a good scrubbing also. So, cam bearings are the ones I'm sure I'll need, main and con rod bearings I may be able to reuse if it's not a taboo. I believe that is all for now. I plan on getting everything through Rock Auto or O'Reilly, unless someone has a better supplier. Just need to call O'Reilly and see if they even have my bearings in stock, in some warehouse, in some far away state.

 

I know you all like pics, so,

 

 

here's Robocop on a unicorn.

[datzenmike]

Yes this is the second one on the same thing so I've merged them together.

 

Only question I can answer is measure them all.

[Flashing_Banana]

Anyone else wana throw in their $3.57 cents?

[wayno]

I could be wrong on this statement, but I am going to put in my 2 cents. I do not beleave that you can reuse the rod end bolts on the A block, I beleave they are only good for One tork, how about it Datzenmike, will the engine fly apart if he tries to retork the rodend bolts? I do beleave I tried once to retork A block rodends and half of them wouldn't even take it, they just kept stretching. wayno

[Flashing_Banana]

Well, it's a nice day out, so I guess I'll take all the caps off and measure them all, see what I can find out with that. For this rebuild, I'm planning on getting a gasket kit, problem is, I can get the set complete online from rockauto. I like the place, lots of stuff and wholesale deals every once in a while. I could also get them from O'Rielly, but 2 different sets. Same price and whatnot, but I'm sure I'll have to wait the same amount of time. Like I said in an earlier post, I'm going to be using the cam, lifters and pushrods from whats in my car now. So I'm sure new cam bearings are in order too. If I can get the prices on the rod bolts I'll just buy them too. What about the head bolts? Would it be ok to reuse them? I just want to know most everything before I get excited and block out the rest of the world, cleaning and painting the block and whatnot.

[king bee66]

what kind of dashpad cover is that?

[Flashing_Banana]

Wood.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm serious, the 2nd owner tried to keep all the plastics in good shape, but they were cracking. With him, and I can only assume, trying to keep the cracks small, slathered most everything with silicone or epoxy. I can only assume the previous pad was beyond repair. He shaped some wood to fit, and then wrapped some material over it. I'll take a better pic of it in a sec.