Few questions about rebuilding an A14

[ggzilla]

Nissan recommdends NOT removing the cam bearings. They almost never wear out.

If you remove them and put new ones in, the factory service manual says you will need to line hone the block.

 

Not sure on the rod studs. Nismo catalog said one-use, but the factory Service Manuals don't say that. We have all re-used them and never had a problem on street engines. Last at least 200,000 miles...

[king bee66]

Wood.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm serious, the 2nd owner tried to keep all the plastics in good shape, but they were cracking. With him, and I can only assume, trying to keep the cracks small, slathered most everything with silicone or epoxy. I can only assume the previous pad was beyond repair. He shaped some wood to fit, and then wrapped some material over it. I'll take a better pic of it in a sec.

 

 

i would be interested to see it, i know this thread is about your motor but that sounds kind of cool :P

[DRIVEN]

Since the dollar just keeps getting weaker, I'll throw in .03 just for good measure. These are simple, tough little engines that are very forgiving.

 

If your bearings look ok I'd run em as they are. You can re-torque rod bolts. I've had success (read: no failure) just hitting the cylinders with a ball hone and toss new rings in the stock pistons. If the cam is present, reuse it. No need to mess with cam bearings. They're fine. Come up with another set of new lifters. They're on eBay all the time. See if you can find another head and have it freshened up. Head bolts are also reuseable. Make sure you get the "special" bolt in the right location or you'll have no oil supply to the rockers. Basically, what I'm suggesting is that you build a complete second engine and not pilfer parts from the runner that's in the car now. That leaves you an out if there happens to be a problem after you swap in this replacement. Probably won't be an issue but it feels good to have some insurance.

BTW, the difference in the two engine kits on Rockauto is probably because of the round vs. oval intake ports. They require different gaskets.

Good luck and keep us posted :thumbup: .

[Flashing_Banana]

Ok, took bunches of pictures to please the forum gods. I would love to build a engine the proper way, but I'm tight on funds as I am going to be moving cross country. I would like to have my car running well at least. I won't be driving it, it shall be towed behind my parents car, maybe, or the moving truck. This current engine in my car has around 187k on it at the moment. It would be better to use the cam in the short block if it's in good shape? I just said using the original valve train because I know it should be in decent shape cause my engine is running now with no ticking or anything. If I had it my way, if I had money to spend on myself, I would build it up, stoke it out and make it a great daily driver with a 5 speed. Power down low, and just drive. Alas, I can't do that unless I win the lottery. As I said, I have 3 cam's, 2 rocker shafts w/ rockers, and 2 sets of push rods. Well, I said I had the cams. Rockauto has just the one set, O'Reilly only has the upper and lower end gasket set, I would have to buy them seperatly. They don't have the full kit. I priced out at O'Reilly and it would be around 150, main, cam, rod bearings, and gaskets, minus FREIGHT. Yes, freight, for things that you can send in a small box, thru USPS. Bull dingle berries. Rockauto supplies both gaskets, I know I have the oval ports without the water passages, or welded sealed.

Now, for the good stuff.

 

Don't hate me too much, this started out as a post about my car, then about my engine. Hell, it's all one already, waste to start a new thread.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I wish I could tell you what this material is, but I haven't got a clue.

 

 

 

He spent a good bit of time getting it to match the dash, when it's in place, it's snug, doesn't move, or rattle or anything.

 

 

 

Maybe some sort of pleather?

 

 

 

It's streched, and that pattern/indentations, I'm not sure if it came like that or if the 2nd owner did it himself. I'm guessing the latter.

 

 

 

He also made some arm rests, the seem quite warn, so I'm guessing they are quite old.

 

 

 

You can see all the silicone the guy used on the flat places, it wasn't hard to pull out, or put back in.

 

 

 

YEAH! More silicone! Still leaks! I haven't popped it open, because its sealed shut inside and out. It's getting warm and I want my sun roof to pop up.

 

 

 

Here are the dual fuel pumps, which can be turned on independently, also the fuel filter is there, I think it's bout time to change it.

 

 

 

Hard to see, but that shinny thing in line with the nut is the switch for selecting the fuel pumps, and that tanish button is the starter button, turns the engine, but no power to the coil.

 

 

 

Like my custom coil-overs? I know I sure don't. They not only look scary, but they lift the back up by about 1.5 inches. Tires are 175 70 r13, almost the same size as stock, speedo is off by about 10 mph when cruising at 45, I think I'm going 45 anyway.

 

 

 

Here is the sad, unhappy, and plumber taped muffler. I know, I need a new one.

 

 

 

Here is my manual coke, I'm sure there's nothing stock about it.

 

 

 

This is my fuse box, there are many like it, but this one is mine. There are also inline fuses in random places, so it causes even more fun!

 

 

 

This is really cool though, if a fuse goes out, the respective led comes on. Yet another thing this car does differently.

 

 

 

One day, this will look nice, but that day will be full of words and pain.

 

 

 

Right, windshield wiper speed control thingy, bottom control is the A/C on off and temp knob, those two switches are pretty self explanatory, but not what they really do. Horn switch is an on/off for the horn on the steering wheel. But, there is a button and switch on the passenger side so they can operate the horn independently of the driver, regardless of that switch, so the passenger can beep, but not the driver. The fan switch is kinda similar, it controls the fan in the sense that when the little thermo switch says to turn the fan on, this can turn that off. But, there is another switch that turns the fan on regardless of the thermo switch and that switch. I can not fathom this mans reasoning.

 

 

 

A/C evaporater is in the black thing, and the stock blower is on the bottom of it. Just found out recently that the fan still works, you pull on the hot/cold selector thing. Fan works with the A/C, just didn't realize it pulled out.

 

 

 

The driver vent was broke, it wouldn't close, and several of those plastic rings were either cracked or not inline with everything else. It hurt to tear it out, but, I got a perfect spot for my tach. Just need to seal it better because I can feal air coming in around it. Just not sure what to use.

 

 

Well, quite off topic, but if I get yelled at, then so be it. Every day I get in my car on my back, I find something new. It's an exciting adventure so far. Just one thing I not sure of what it does. In the pic with the fan and horn switches, you see a red light and a very small switch. The light comes on when I press the brake pedal, when the brake lights come on. The switch though, I've tried my best to follow it without removing anything, and all I can say is that one wire goes into the dash, and the other gets lost. I know the wire color is blue/yellow, or some color similar to an old looking yellow.

 

Hope this pleases some of you, if I can get a chuckle or three, then it's worth it.

[king bee66]

haha, i love that shit. the guy got the angles of the pad and door handle pretty good, too bad he didnt whittle some decent bumpers

[datzenmike]

Since the dollar just keeps getting weaker, I'll throw in .03 just for good measure. These are simple, tough little engines that are very forgiving.

 

If your bearings look ok I'd run em as they are. You can re-torque rod bolts. I've had success (read: no failure) just hitting the cylinders with a ball hone and toss new rings in the stock pistons. If the cam is present, reuse it. No need to mess with cam bearings. They're fine. Come up with another set of new lifters. They're on eBay all the time. See if you can find another head and have it freshened up. Head bolts are also reuseable. Make sure you get the "special" bolt in the right location or you'll have no oil supply to the rockers. Basically, what I'm suggesting is that you build a complete second engine and not pilfer parts from the runner that's in the car now. That leaves you an out if there happens to be a problem after you swap in this replacement. Probably won't be an issue but it feels good to have some insurance.

BTW, the difference in the two engine kits on Rockauto is probably because of the round vs. oval intake ports. They require different gaskets.

Good luck and keep us posted :thumbup: .

 

Word! And keep all bearing caps in order so they go back in the same spot.

 

 

 

 

I wish I could tell you what this material is, but I haven't got a clue.

Maybe some sort of pleather?

 

Naugahyde likely.

[ggzilla]

Yes, cam bearing virtually never wear out, and main and rod beariings rarely wear out.

 

The proper way is to Measure with plastiguage and reuse if they are in spec.

[Flashing_Banana]

Today I shall grab some plastigauge, and measure them all either today, or tomorrow. I know that tomorrow I will drag out all the parts and catalog them, and put them in their respective boxes. I don't need/want all these parts. I seriously don't believe I will be breaking an axle housing. So, some, if not most, will be for sale. Not sure how the parts out in the real world are, but I shall see. I shall also keep an eye out for new followers. At some point in time, you could buy a H95 head from Autozone. I'll see what I can do with those "coil-overs" too.

 

So, reuse the rod bolts, or not? I've read that they only torque once, then you need to replace them. Stupid question, but I'm sure I can't use some grade 8 bolts and grind the bolt head down to fit, seems like most everyone would do this. Do they not torque right?

[DRIVEN]

You can reuse/retorque A series head bolts. Stud kits are available for @ $100 online if you want to go that route. ARP rod bolts are available for @ $60. You can reuse/retorque your stock ones and be OK. I don't think I'd feel comfortable grinding hardware store bolts to make-em-fit.

[Flashing_Banana]

Well, the place I live in has proven itself again to how much it sucks to live here. None of the auto places I've been to have plastigauge. If you don't know what plastigauge is, just click here. Well, if no one else has had any issues with re-torquing the stock main/rod bolts, I'll just reuse them.

 

Reason I didn't get to the parts cataloging is I had to get a molar pulled, $202 total, my rebuild money basically. I didn't exactly feel like doing all that, but I shall do that tomorrow and get a list of all the stuff I don't need. I still have some money, but if someone has a head in or around the tri-state area, let me know.

[Flashing_Banana]

Took a few hours to get the pics, but I also looked over most of them and tried to figure out where they went. Used a real camera and the shots look much better. Oh well, lots of interesting parts and mystery electrics!

 

 

Nothing all that surprising here, tail lights, side markers and licence lights break, seat belts get loose, but horn pad wears out? Not sure about that, only found one turn signal lense.

 

 

 

Top right is smog crap, top middle, dark bags front bearings I believe, and below those is a tranny filter I'm guessing. It's got dirt and crap in it, not useful anymore me thinks. The front calipers are rusted solid, new shiny alternator, but it needs an external regulator. Found an extra oil dipstick, really? Does anyone know who either breaks or loses theirs to need an extra?

 

 

 

 

Lets play a fun game! Name the electrics, I know what some of these are, others, not so sure. A few relays, maybe circuit breakers/blinkers, silver canisters, light sockets, transistor box, and switches. There are a few I have a feelings don't belong, such as the big red chingadara and maybe the two thermo dohickies. I also don't think the two switches on the far top left are related. Are those round black plastic devices electric chokes or something?

This is the extra valve train, well, almost a whole one. I dumped the sand and crap out of the box after this. There are 15 valve springs, 7 intake valves, 7 push rods, and 6 exhaust valves. I guess some weren't up to this guys standards. The timing chain and sprockets seem to have only 12k on them. One of the rocker arms seems to be seized, or just needs gentle persuasion.

 

Heater core and, heater core? I'm sure if I looked at the service manual it would explain. Is that also a fan spacer on the corner? I have an electric fan and it seems to work just fine, for now. I think the thermo switch for it is busted cause the fan never comes on, and I remember it coming on before, when it was colder out. Maybe I bumped it at some time.

 

 

Two small bags worth of stuff minus the hardware/fasteners. What are the round vents? Where do those go? The bottom left two objects have me baffled, the right one maybe bent, it could be normally flat.

 

 

Larger bag full of goodies. Not sure what the brackets are top right and bottom left. Good to know I have two extra rad caps just in case. The round object on the top right seems to be the auto handle mount.

Big ziploc bag, with Japanese characters? It says nothing important, just thought it was odd. The car is left hand drive, but maybe the 2nd owner was Japanese. Just another thing to ponder about. I've said it before, but every time i get under this car, I find something new. Still don't know what that tiny toggle switch does though.

[Flashing_Banana]

Well, some more news, I am currently unemployed, again. So, this is what I think I shall do, clean the short block, get a gasket set, skip the bearings because they seem to be fine and whatnot, rebuild the carb, already got the gaskets, reuse the valve train from the runner, and get the head cleaned up. I've been watching ebay for a bit, the lightened lifters popped up, also a normal set. I think it would be a good idea to compare the cams in the engines to see which one looks better, cleaner and whatnot. I know I shouldn't be cheap, but it seems I need to go that way.

 

The only oil pumps I can find are 100+ new at part stores, I take it you can't rebuild them or anything. I've got two other oil pumps, but not sure of their condition. I replaced the pump that was on this block because there where times were it wouldn't create pressure for some time, up to 30 secs. I knew it had oil in it, I would check it every time I would start it in the morning. The pump on there now works much better, but it maxes out just under 60 psi, low at 12-15 at my erratic idle. I would like a new one or figuring out if the other two are any good.

 

Again, any input or criticism is appreciated. Why does the economy have to suck? Why can't it be like the olden days, where you talked to the boss man of the place, he sat you down, asked you a few questions, shook your hand and you had a job. Not all this stupid online stuff where your graded by a computer to see if you would do the right things.