Farmer Joe Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 well my 17s with the 205 50s are going to hit the firewall i believe... right now my tire is only like 2inches from my clutch master cylinder. also when its layed out the brake master might get in the way. i think the firewall will have to be tubbed... Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 Hmmm interesting. U think I could get a pic of ur engine bay? Im curious now Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 this is now with the 17s this is my 15s from back when... Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 I see what u are saying. I was curious if I was gonna have to cut out my fenders... hmmm cause I will be running 18's lol might need to finagal the fire wall some. Hmm. This should be fun ;) was contemplating if I wanted to try and do the front cab off or not. Was trying to avoid it. But it might just be easier ti pull it off then fit the cab on afterwards.... Quote Link to comment
78dattysun Posted November 2, 2011 Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 You still living in eugene? Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted November 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 No im living in grants pass again. I like it here more lol. Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Been a little bit.... done a little bit. Pulled the motor and trans to get it out of the way as u can see i pulled the cab cause it was also in the way.. removed my notches and back half cause it got in the way of the cherry picker while i was pulling the cab Worked on the links some. upper links plugged and bunged, the third bar is for a buddies truck. so gratefull he has a machine shop we can make all this stuff up in. chop saw doin work lower links plugged and bunged My buddy sam making up saddles with the cnc Putting together some bottom bars (i honestly trust him to do the final welds way more then myself, Im learning tho!) Im pretty sure i will be Z'ing the frame 3 inches. that way i can still ride low and not have to be at a low psi and it will be easier to get the front to lay as i hear that the front lower control arms make contact with the frame before it lays. Could prolly get away with a 2" Z but im in there might as well make it worth is haha. Gotta figure out what Im going to do about the steering tho. Anybody swap rack & pinion into their 620? what are ppl using? "This bitch gonna lay lower then a pregnant rattle snake" Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Not looking forward to cleaning up lol. thats the next step on the list.... 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Nice links, nice tools :cool: Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Haha yeah super fortunate to have his help :) Quote Link to comment
justin 620 Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 I need to notch my truck, badly Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 so is this going to be a 2 or 4 link? the long bars looks like the idea i had of making the link bars long enough to reach the carrier bearing.. no pinion problem then... Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Its gonna be a four link. The round bar u see will be my triangulated upper bars. I think my lowers will be mounting just under the cab. Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 I I used the stronger 1/4 wall for my bottom bars cause that's what I will be lifting off of. (Bag on bar) Quote Link to comment
Farmer Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Thats awesome. Larry Quote Link to comment
sinner720st Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 nice work on the truck... going to be a huge improvement now on my my very very serious two cents. if you weld the lower links to the axle, then the axle and links will move in unison because they have become one piece. if you put upper links on that are not the same size, and that dont mount in the same exact place on the frame (making a triangle from side view) then your links will bind and either break, or not move at all... please do yourself a favor and either A. connect upper links to the lower links. OR B. cut your saddles on the lower bars and put heim joint on instead. if you go with A, then your lower bars will have to run just about straight out (from axle to frame) the upper links should go from center of axle to the lower links midpointish doing this will create three triangles, and keep your axle centered under the truck... Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 yeah i was thinkin the same thing as sinner.. it looks like your planning on welding those mounts to the axle... thatd make it a 2 link.. and if you put bars on the the top, it just really isnt going to work... a 4 link has to have 4 pivot points... Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 I see your guys point.... hmmm ... I will Jst put a heim at the axle then. Easy solution. Thanks for the heads up! Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 yeah in 4 link situations there gonna be 4 points on contact on the frame and then 4 more on the axle... just make that boxed end have a busing like the other end.. done deal.. youll need to make tabs from the axle for the bar to mount to.. easy peasy man.. heres a pic of my 1st 4 link... not the best, but its still running around... heres a pic of a local guy that did the long 2 link.. itd work... its actually how id kinda prefer it IMO.. get some man... Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 With that long 2 link what's keeping the axle from moving around. Cause I don't see a watts or a pan hard Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 he had a diagonal bar between the 2 bars.. like: |\| from the top if you can imagine. Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Wow that's interesting. I have never seen that. And u just mount the front of the bar right alongside the carrier so u don't have any pinion changes? Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 And why do you prefere it? What benefit does it have doing a 4 link or running a watts. Cause I like the simple and clean look and that setup doesn't get any simpler but I don't wanna comprimese a more effective 4 link for a simple clean 2 link. Is there a name for that setup? Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 well the diagonal bar or a watts is up to you.. in most cases you dont need alot of side to side support on a 2 link if its built right. that really just there for you to know mechanically it wont move side to side. the main thing i like about the idea is that you have a long arm thats going to only move a short amount, thus, making the availing space to working with a little bit less of a am-i-gonna-have-enough-room moment.. theres alot of options on where to put the bag or coilover or spring or what-have-you.. my plan was to put my bags behind the axle.. they have 11in extension, so that would be plenty to get it off the ground. another thing that a proper 2 link does is cancel out alot of body roll. if you can image the rear suspension mimics the lid of a box.. theres not alot of twist it allows... con? yeah, but also a pro.. i figured id be able to get away with 4 valves. 2 for front up and down, and the same for the back.. the 4 link guys that run 4 valves get the gangster lean when you only have one big dude drivin.. things you have to look out for with the 2 link are the points of stress.. you need to make sure that the pivots for the links are build to take all the twisting force in either case, your gonna be well off.. the idea you had goin for the long bars with the saddles welded to the axle would work pretty well id imagine... and a 4 link will work just as well if not better depending on how its setup.. now the big difference between the 2 and the 4 link is going to be a fixed or unfixed axle.. the 2 link solidly mounts the axle to a bar and takes almost all the rotation out of the senario.. the 4 link gives you the option for articulation, like the pic above with the axle all angled out.. from the way it looks youve got the parts to go either way... Quote Link to comment
toddluck Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 im glad your saving this truck i looked at it b4 it got parted i almost bought it myself but something told me to keep looking keep up the good work Quote Link to comment
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