]2eDeYe Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 You tease :P Nice start to that subframe :cool: BTW, if you click this little window instead of the one you usually pick on photobucket it'll copy the picture link with the Quote Link to comment
blueridgespeed Posted October 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 2eDeYe;90404'] BTW' date=' if you click this little window instead of the one you usually pick on photobucket it'll copy the picture link with the [img'] brackets already applied to the link. You just gotta paste it into your post :) Thanks for the pic Skib :D Ok, gotcha - thank you for the tip on picture posting! Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted October 22, 2008 Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 Would you be interested in a complete supercharger system? I was going to SC a Datsun Z I6, but I reaaly should put the cash into my project NOW, vs. a later day. Have almost everything to SC a 6 cyl, all sensors, ect... Quote Link to comment
blueridgespeed Posted October 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2008 Agent Alpha - no thank you on the SC. I'll be running a VG30ET (turbo), and it's going to be a tough enough squeeze as it is! I had to get some more plate for the rear diff mount (I now sit down when I await quotes on steel prices) - -cut, bent, and welded on the rear diff mount and set it all back in the car for layout with the LARGE z31 tank. Rear framing will incorporate this subframe and support the tank. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 26, 2008 Report Share Posted October 26, 2008 If you don't stick with the Watanabes, any chance you want to sell them? :) Quote Link to comment
datto510 Posted October 26, 2008 Report Share Posted October 26, 2008 Blueridge, you in West Virginia? Quote Link to comment
blueridgespeed Posted October 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2008 If you don't stick with the Watanabes, any chance you want to sell them? :) I really love them and don't currently have plans to sell, but if something changes, I guess you've got first dibs! Quote Link to comment
blueridgespeed Posted October 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 The first tubes for the main frame (rear section) went into the shell today. It was a late night (sorry for the dark pics) and I was a happy man! More tubes to come, but this shows how the rear subframe pictured in post #79 is being integrated Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 Looks like it's coming along nicely. Are you goint to reinforce the diff mounting plate at all? It seems to me like it would be a source for some flex in the rear suspension if it wasn't reinforced. Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 Wow! That's a huge step in the direction you are aiming. On big projects, these little milestones are essential for the soul of the person executing the master plan! Congrats! Quote Link to comment
blueridgespeed Posted October 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 Looks like it's coming along nicely. Are you goint to reinforce the diff mounting plate at all? It seems to me like it would be a source for some flex in the rear suspension if it wasn't reinforced. The plate is cut from 3/16 steel, and yes, it will be further reinforced. There will be much more triangulation in the area around the diff. If you knew how hard it was to put the bends in that plate, you wouldn't be worried about flex! Essentially, that rear diff plate won't really be subject to much force in the fore/aft direction. Really none, since it would require shearing the front 4 bolts off. Rotation torque will be much greater, and will be contained by 4 points: the two connections to the two lowermost parallel tubes on the bottom of the subframe and the two (yet to be completed) tubes that will pass through the "mickey mouse ears" at the top of the plate. Compared to the stock rear diff mount (a.k.a. the "moustache bar") I believe it will actually be much stronger. I guess I'll find out! I'm not sure if I'm indentifying which part you're thinking will flex, exactly - I may be off track in my explanation. Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 This project is so friggen cool! Keep up the good wrok guys! Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 Nice work! Did you consider shortening the rear strut tubes? Quote Link to comment
blueridgespeed Posted October 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 Nice work! Did you consider shortening the rear strut tubes? Ha! They do look pretty tall still, don't they. The rear strut tubes are shortened already! I wrote it down somewhere, but it was a bunch, I think over 2 inches. The front struts are shortened too (for the usual reason, I want it low but I want suspension travel too) and I spent a lot of time talking with the Koni and Tokico folks about the shortest damper inserts they have before I settled on all this. Anyway, with the shell almost on the ground, those strut tops seem like they're coming up pretty high, don't they! Of course with the 240z suspension, the strut tube also starts a little higher up than on the stock 510 mount also... Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 I spent a lot of time talking with the Koni and Tokico folks about the shortest damper inserts they have before I settled on all this. What are their shortest inserts for the front? Quote Link to comment
blueridgespeed Posted October 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 I want to say Koni 8610-'s.... I can double check when I get a chance - shoot me a pm to remind me if if I don't get back to you in a few days. From scanning a few posts here and on the 510 realm, I think a number of folks have the VW insert part number figured out - I'd imagine they come in Bilsteins which would be a sweet value.... I believe the "early MR2" front struts are the shortest Tokico's and work very well. I just researched this specific project based on my goals of ride height and travel - keep in mind I started with 280zx struts and 240z rear struts as opposed to stock 510 stuff... Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 I want to say Koni 8610-'s.... I can double check when I get a chance - shoot me a pm to remind me if if I don't get back to you in a few days. From scanning a few posts here and on the 510 realm, I think a number of folks have the VW insert part number figured out - I'd imagine they come in Bilsteins which would be a sweet value.... I believe the "early MR2" front struts are the shortest Tokico's and work very well. I just researched this specific project based on my goals of ride height and travel - keep in mind I started with 280zx struts and 240z rear struts as opposed to stock 510 stuff... The SW20 MR2 front inserts are the shortest Tokicos I know of, and the ones I bought and had my struts shortened to fit. They're 13.25" if I remember correctly. Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 Matt, I beleive that the Tokico Rabbit struts are a little shorter than the MR2 ones. I'm not 100% sure but from the reserch that I have done that is what I have found. As for this project, the struts in the rear really don't need to be that short. You can mount the top of the strut as high as you want, without any verticle restrictions (like a hood). So even with stock length rear struts you could design it so that you would have full travel even at this super low ride height. But you would not want that because the bottom of the car would hit the ground before the suspension bottomed out, and that is much harsher than hitting a rubber bumpstop. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 Hmm, you're probably right, Duke. Monroe lists their 75 rabbit insert at 12.5", but it's also a 1 1/2" body whereas the MR2 insert is a 1 5/8" body so I'm not sure that will fly. My tokicos illuminas are BZ3125. I just measured one and it's actually 12 15/16ths. An 80 rabbit is 12.75" but still a 1.5" body. I only use monroe for the info since it's the only company I've found that I can cross check a vehicle with an insert length. Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 Matt, what do you use to cross reference the shock PN's. I was usning the Monroe catalogue, but I was having trouble finding applications for the PN's. Sorry for the thread jack, but like you Blueridgespeed, I NEED really short struts. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 Okay, maybe crossreference wasn't entirely the correct term. I use their online shock finder to get the part number for a given vehicle, and then they have a downloadable PDF that lists dimensional data for their shocks. Quote Link to comment
qship510 Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 The rabbit struts are shorter by a touch, but the MR2's fit the tube better (usually). On some struts, the MR2's are just a bit tight. Like, grinding the paint off and then "persuade"-them-in-with-a-soft-hammer-tight. Remember the Stanza wagon-like predecessor to the minivan? The front struts for those are not as short, but they are shorter than the 280ZX and 300ZX inserts commonly used. For ultra low 510's, the rabbit and golf inserts have always served me well. Quote Link to comment
blueridgespeed Posted October 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 for my shortened front 280zx struts (same diameter as stock 510) I used the Koni 8610-1436 race (yellow) shocks. These are a 5.5 inch-stroke damper. They measure 14.06 inches fully compress, and this included the protruding top shaft stud, so the body is in the neighborhood of 1.5 inches shorter than that. I've got them all snugged up in the struts, so I don't want to take them out again to measure the bodies, but if it was REALLY important to someone, they might be able to talk me into it. Koni could definitly tell you also. Konis DEFINITELY fit tight. I didn't want to sand off any paint from them, and had really good luck with alignment after welding the shortened strut back together, so they slipped back in after running a 3-stone rotary brake cylinder hone through the inside of the strut tube just a bit. With a tiny bit of "heat transfer" oil in there, the inserts slid in with an air-tight fit - almost felt like the original stock damper piston! Most of the strut narrowness was at the weld where I sectioned them,not surprisingly, and most of the "wideness on the Koni was at it's base. -hope this helps Quote Link to comment
blueridgespeed Posted November 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2008 Didn't get much time to work on the car this month, but we did knock out two more tubes this afternoon... Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted November 14, 2008 Report Share Posted November 14, 2008 is it me or does it kinda look like the cab to semi :D nice work man glad to see it coming along Quote Link to comment
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