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Tube-frame 1968 Datsun 510 - Slowest moving project ever!


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Looks like it's coming along nicely. Are you goint to reinforce the diff mounting plate at all? It seems to me like it would be a source for some flex in the rear suspension if it wasn't reinforced.

 

There will be more triangulation above the horizontal bar in this picture, but this shows how it is supported - I think this was the part you were looking at?

510hrrearlowersubframeincomplete.jpg

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510hrNov18progress.jpg

-got the roof halo and a few other bars done in the "cab" -

 

lol im not sure why but the other shot you had made the roof look way tall looks great man good to see it comming along so well love how you keep your door shut :P

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love how you keep your door shut :P

masking tape rules! HA! - the shell has been so light (relieved of it's floor, firewall, glass, and DOOR HARDWARE) - during all the mockup, the shell's be lifted up, down, and moved around a million times. When I stripped the doors, I had them off separate on sawhorses and got them surgically clean inside and out before hitting them with the primer - but if the shell tips forward (like it does sometimes when we carry it around) the doors will swing open -

-the tape is to prevent that - and keep my young children and other varmints out.

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-thanks for the compliment, but I think there are a BUNCH of projects on here that humble mine -

 

I got a couple of COMPLEX-TO-NOTCH little tubes in last night but I had to quit early 'cause I was exhausted from the long trip back to N.C. from.... PORTLAND!

 

We had a blast in Portland, but unfortunately we were visiting friends and I didn't have enough time to look up some Rat-sun'ers - seems like many of you are there or close by...

 

Anyway, I'm going to pick up a few more sticks of tubing and hopefully get some more work done tomorrow. Pretty soon, we'll be working on the front end. OOOeee ..an Engine, and a transmission... - and stuff like that

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I'm curious why the diff seems so high?

It's definitely high up in the body. The location was set based on first putting the lower control arms in the 'happy place' for geometry, then placing the diff so that the half-shafts will be straight (horizontal) in the center of travel.

 

When a stock Dat gets pushed this low, and the diff goes down with it, the half shafts point upward from the diff to the wheel uprights at an extreme angle, and max out the U-joints. On my last 510 (in the avatar above) we fitted "jacking plates" from a circle track car for the rear upper spring seat, and this allowed infinite height adjustment (like a coilover, just different). I found that if I lowered it too much, there was a slight vibration as the U-joints reached their maximum articulation. Turning the ride height up just 1/8" or so would cure it, and back down would reproduce it.

 

On a stock 510, the top of the crossmember can be sectioned a bit and the diff moved upward in the car (and spacers placed underneath) to cure it a bit, but eventually you run into the floor and can't go any further.

 

On this car, the floor-ectomy allowed other options, so we've taken several measures so the half-shafts should have an easy life, but if it doesn't work, I guess I'll be on here beggin for help making some C/V axles!

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  • 3 weeks later...

The holidays derailled things for a bit, but the last triangulation of the rear subframe was finally done, allowing forward progress on the frame/cage.

 

One delay came when the tubing ran out. OUCH steel prices these days!

 

-had to go back to the race car chassis shop and get more tubing - and set up my truck back up to haul the 22-foot monstrosities. My "datsun" truck, that is.....

frameperimeterandrearsubframecomple.jpg

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Looking good! Datto truck? Did I miss a pic somewhere?

got me! Yeah, I had my uncle's orange 620 bulletside regular cab here for a while while I rehabbed it a bit, but now that it's running well he took it back! What about that! I'm schlepping children and stuff in my daily driver Nissan truck now - not a vehicle that's RATSUN gallery-worthy!

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  • 1 month later...

I don't care how long this thing has taken to build...you are doing a great job and given the fact that every single cut/notch/tack/brace/weld needs to be just right...you are doing amazing work. This is going to be one STIFF 510! I love the progress!:cool:

 

What is the displacement going to be on the motor when all said and done? What trans is going to back it up and what gears are you aiming at in the rear? Just curious.:D

 

Keep it up man...looks great!

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  • 7 months later...

XeroX

-how's my baby? I only see pics of it from time to time on Ebay! (an old photbucket pic of mine got heisted somehow) - it's used in a windsheild weatherstrip ad - definitely my---uh...YOUR car!

 

I loved that car. The next owner was planning an engine swap. Did that happen? I personally loved the 2.3+ L-series with phh44 mikunis.

 

The car got to the point where the only thing I'd add was.... BRAKES! It had upgrade pads, new calipers, SS braided lines, and the Nismo/powerslot rotors - so I'd gone through that system, but I was size-limited by the wheels, which I didn't want to change. I guess 280zx brakes would have been easy, but I couldn't bring myself to tear out all those good new parts!

 

Anyway, I'd love to hear about the car!

Great build!

 

I guess i just finally figured out you were the one that built the car i just purchased not too long ago! :)

 

I was linked to this biuld thread and im overly impressed...Keep up the good work!

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