67wrx Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 has anyone turbod a wagon before with the roadster motor in it Quote Link to comment
datsunrides Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 Not a wagon, or a R16, but I do have a Roadster with a U20 (basically an OHC R16)I did a turbo/efi on. It's hella tight in a roadster so I would imagine it's gonna be even worse in a wagon. May be easier with a draw thru? While the car is complete and running, it is not easy to see the whole thing, so here are a couple individual pics of the components Mark Quote Link to comment
67wrx Posted July 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 wow thanks for the pics nice job on the intake and exhaust manifolds Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 The real problem with trying to turbo a RL411 or WRL411 is the super tight clearance, or lack therof, between the intake and exhaust manifolds and the brake master cylinder, steering column, starter and the inner fender, That's why the exhaust manifold, intake manifold air cleaner housing and filter size and even the tilt angle of the SU carbs and fuel float bowls were modified, Even then, a new 2 into 1 adapter and exit through the inner fender for the exhaust was required. Given enough time and money I am sure something could be shoe-horned in but I'm not the one to try it. Quote Link to comment
Pumpkn210 Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Awsome work mang! Love the creative use of space :cool: is the intake stainless? Want to make intakes easier and am worried about them rustin up inside :unsure: Want to turbo an A12A sometime and am inspired by your setup! :P Quote Link to comment
elmerfudpucker Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Dont look like you left much room for a heat shield. but you may not be to that point yet. Quote Link to comment
datsunrides Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Awsome work mang! Love the creative use of space :cool: is the intake stainless? Want to make intakes easier and am worried about them rustin up inside :unsure: Want to turbo an A12A sometime and am inspired by your setup! :P Yes, Intake is 316 stainless. Went this route for 2 reasons. 1- have easy access to the material. 2- I am not the greatest aluminum welder. :( Dont look like you left much room for a heat shield. but you may not be to that point yet. The car has been finished and driving for 2 years. There is a heat shield between the turbo and inner fender and also between the turbo and hood on the finished product. As a measure of added protection, the turbine housing is ceramic coated. Mark Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Awesome turbo setup! i like how you flipped the intake to the bottom and the exhaust to the top. Pure ingenious! Quote Link to comment
67wrx Posted July 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 what about someone doing a 4 bbl carb setup on the r16 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 17, 2010 Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 Rule #1.... Never over carb or cam any motor. If bigger was better wouldn't we all be running 1180 Holly double pumpers???? An L16 revved to 8,000 RPM requires only 225cubic feet per minute of flow. And that's 8K!!! I think the Weber 32/36 is around 270cfm. So good enough. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted July 17, 2010 Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 Rule #1.... Never over carb or cam any motor. If bigger was better wouldn't we all be running 1180 Holly double pumpers???? An L16 revved to 8,000 RPM requires only 225cubic feet per minute of flow. And that's 8K!!! I think the Weber 32/36 is around 270cfm. So good enough. if thats the case then why cant mine rev past 4500 in 5th gear? Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted July 17, 2010 Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 if thats the case then why cant mine rev past 4500 in 5th gear? Because it doesn't have any power? :lol: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 17, 2010 Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 if thats the case then why cant mine rev past 4500 in 5th gear? Several things. Depending on gears you may be going fast enough the the motor isn't making enough power at 4,500 to push through the air. In order to double your speed from 50 to 100 MPH you need 4 times the power!!! This is called power limited. In some cases it's possible to go faster in third! than 4th. If your engine is mated to a carb that is too small (possibly for economy reasons) a larger carb will increase power but there is an upper end to this and you can't keep going bigger and bigger forever. The biggest carb in the world won't make a 90 hp L20B make 200hp. Yes there can be some increase by going to a slightly larger carb. Too big is not only a waste of carb and time but will start to affect the low speed drive ability. Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 what about someone doing a 4 bbl carb setup on the r16 Twin Delortos [or webers] as on the 2 Liter roadster would be almost perfect. Quote Link to comment
67wrx Posted July 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 im wanting to go with something more simple than the two webers Quote Link to comment
FoxyRoadster Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 http://www.pattonmachine.com/Carbs-and-Adapters.htm EFI it! But dont listen to me, I'm crazy! though if I remember right the SSS barely had enough room for the r16 right? I'mma hear a lot of flak for saying it, but remote turbo time? :P Quote Link to comment
Pumpkn210 Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 Rule #1.... Never over carb or cam any motor. you can't keep going bigger and bigger forever. :hmm: :bye: :no: <_< :lol: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 With the exception of Dave. The usual rules don't apply to him and the pumpkn. :lol: . Quote Link to comment
Pumpkn210 Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 You are SPOT ON though, It idles high(2000), loads up a little with gas, and has a super bad dead spot when in gear in the low RPMs (1000 and below) Nothing that a bigger cam and some valve springs cant cure! I guess the thing to remember is that there are sacrifices you may have to make for the hot car you want. It very well may be a real bear to drive in traffic bla bla bla. To me its all worth it, but then again I got another one(GooN) to drive thats stock(Fairly) and slammed(Very) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 Rule #1.... Never over carb or cam any motor. If bigger was better wouldn't we all be running 1180 Holly double pumpers???? An L16 revved to 8,000 RPM requires only 225cubic feet per minute of flow. And that's 8K!!! I think the Weber 32/36 is around 270cfm. So good enough. This includes cams too. They will move the power higher in the RPM range so your flat spot will get wider and deeper. Quote Link to comment
erichwaslike Posted October 20, 2010 Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 This includes cams too. They will move the power higher in the RPM range so your flat spot will get wider and deeper. not always true. if u go with a huge torque cam it will keep it in a relatively low rpm since thats where most of ur torque is made Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted October 20, 2010 Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 not always true. if u go with a huge torque cam it will keep it in a relatively low rpm since thats where most of ur torque is made I believe where your torque comes in is more affected by your manifolding, but its sure as heck that a race cam is not going to give you low end grunt. up your lift but keep the duration short like a truck camshaft. ... And for selecting a carburetor on a turbo engine... an L16 @ 225CFM N/A would require approximately 450CFM at one BAR of boost, correct? That could be covered by a holley 2bbl which gives you identical adjustability of a standard holley 4bbl but just half the size. We run a holley 2bbl on our race trucks with a chevy 305 and pull out 420hp. Jet it smaller and you'll be set! Quote Link to comment
erichwaslike Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 1 bar aint that around 15 lbs of boost. holy stretched headbolts batman. hopefully thats with dished pistons Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted October 26, 2010 Report Share Posted October 26, 2010 1 bar aint that around 15 lbs of boost. holy stretched headbolts batman. hopefully thats with dished pistons A factory built L series can handle short stints of up to ~20psi of boost before rings die, with a properly tuned fuel system. Quote Link to comment
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