raped ape race motor

[Sickboy1031]

Got myself a 2.0 motor out of a stock car supposed to be putting 180 at the crank my mechanic got it running tonight tomorrow it gets a throttle cable and custom built gauge pod and some jetting on the carb, it here is a video of the rough install starting the motor, my phone cameras microphone couldnt handle all the sound but it was intense. The motor came out of the racecar 510 that Sick620 bought

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeEgyyRpncg

[skunk]

sounds mean, lets see some burn outs.

[izzo]

id be surprised if it was 180 at crank, kinda high, but who knows

[Sickboy1031]

Im coming from an L16 that was only getting half throttle due to a linkage problem. It should be finished tomorrow. This motor is supposed to have 9.5-10.5 to 1 compression bigger valves elecric fuel pump cannon intake with holly 350 race prep carb It had a 500 before but thats more for circle track and keeping it wound up non stop and elecronic ignition among other things and a pretty wild cam. until I can afford an exhaust its gonna be tied into the stock exhaust which should mild it down a hair. Im gonna order a new carrier bearing for the driveline tomorrow but all thats left to do is hook up the gauges and build a pod which should be done tomorrow night and build a bracket so I can use my stock throttle cable. This carb has no choke so my mechanic said he is gonna be looking for a non race prep 350 for it. I cant wait to drive it. and Its getting like 20+ lbs of oil pressure even though it has some kind of oiler tube in the top end.

 

 

 

 

 

[Pumpkn210]

Chokes are for sissies

 

Cereal though, sweet shiz mang!

[sick620]

sounds great.... get some kind of a filter on your pcv. that oil squirter setup looks cool :cool:

[DISLEXICDIME]

180 0n 10.5.1 my last was 11.5 to one and was not 180 get it on the dyno so we can see what its got. what ever it is pushing it will feel like a rocket compared to a l16 . your truck looks clean in the pics ;)

[datsun brat pack]

look.s good i have the same kind of intake but is made by offenhauser dual plan with a 390 cfm holley carb :D.

[Sickboy1031]

My mechanic said we could switch back to a 500 cfm but the 350 will help tame it a bit, what size exhaust should I do when I get the money because I think my old exhaust is gonna be like breathing through a coffee stirrer

[I'm BLUE]

look.s good i have the same kind of intake but is made by offenhauser dual plan with a 390 cfm holley carb :D.

 

Nice , I just put a 390cfm 4bbl Holley on my Z a few days ago :D

[datsun brat pack]

right now i am running 2inch but i might step up to 2 1/2 . with my new set up when im done the 2inch runs real good.:D

[datsun brat pack]

i like it but it was a little spendy $400 new .:rolleyes:

[I'm BLUE]

i like it but it was a little spendy $400 new .:rolleyes:

 

ohhhhh I know it <_< , my bud is going to get one as well since he saw mine running :D

 

Luckily , I got mine used of a parts car which was a main selling point since the parts car costed me $300 ( super tight bushings , carb guy says it has very low miles if many at all on it ) with brass floats inside :D , and a rare "Car-Tech" Manifold came with it ( looks like almost a prototype manifold )

 

I am going to be installing a larger accelrator jet nozzle soon , and I am in need of a weaker Secondary Spring ( Mine is just 1 size to large )

 

I bought and installed a "Lokar Throttle Cable" with the set up per suggestion of Freaky510 , and lovin it :cool:

[Grey_Matter]

sounds awesome

[banzai510(hainz)]

I dont believe the 180hp mark. Why I dont believe the airflow will be fast enough to make a 90deg bend in the manifold unless its a turbo.

 

PS get a battery tie down before the battery goes in to the hood.

 

 

Otherwise truck looks fine.

You have the rare version rad 73/74yr where the return is on the pass side

[MikeRL411]

"Oiler tube in the top end." Looks like an after market installed spray bar for the valve train to me.

[Jayden71]

Thats a good lookin motor man :cool:

[WAGON JON]

id be surprised if it was 180 at crank, kinda high, but who knows

 

If it is a "race engine" it will make it.

 

Check out Troy Ermish's dyno pull of his 1800cc race enging... he is making 182hp at the WHEELS. Mind you, it is a RACE ENGINE. Not bad!!! :D

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbSaJ7u0BT0

[Sickboy1031]

they were running it in a circle track car and it had a 500 cfm carb but my mechanic stuck the 350 on it to make it a little more controlled and hopefully keep me from grenading it

 

I will dyno it after Ive driven it for a bit and get an exhaust i think this exhaust is gonna make a big difference. Im gonna get to drive it tonight

 

Best part is gonna be when people are expecting to haul ass around me at traffic lights

[Sickboy1031]

So were having carb issues. We have put on 4 carbs but all of them have been used the first was a holley 350 then a demon carburator neither one ran quite right had a bad dead spot. then we put a holley 500 from his race car it ran ok for now but i was taking it to his shop today, because he wanted to try a motorcraft so it would be a bit more streetable when i pulled into his shop it died we looked and the fuel was just pouring out of the jets. so he put on the motorcraft today and it was used as well and was having accelerator pump problems and a vacume leak. When we had the holley and demon carbs on we tried a few different jets. So the main suspects for the problems are: 1.all 3 race carbs had the power valve taken out of them for use on the track. T2.he electric fuel pump might be giving a bit too much fuel pressure. 3.We tied the stock exhaust in for the time being. 4.The cam is a bit wild.

 

So were gonna try one of the holley 350's with a power valve put back in and some new jetting. were gonna grab the old exhaust that was on the motor which is like 2.5-3 inch i think and put it on. And run a fuel pressure regulator. I was told I would have to keep this motor wound up a lot more than my old one. Any Ideas?

 

I did drive It about 40 miles last night and while with the 500 race carb it was a little hard to manage and a lot out of tune it still was night and day over my old L16. I would give it some throttle it would pull a bit then bog and then hit a sweet spot and just pull like a beast. I think I might have too much motor and too much tire to do burnouts until I get a bad ass clutch but we will see after i get the thing running a little more smooth. Even with the old exhaust this thing gets a lot of looks now

[philcas1987]

So were having carb issues. We have put on 4 carbs but all of them have been used the first was a holley 350 then a demon carburator neither one ran quite right had a bad dead spot. then we put a holley 500 from his race car it ran ok for now but i was taking it to his shop today, because he wanted to try a motorcraft so it would be a bit more streetable when i pulled into his shop it died we looked and the fuel was just pouring out of the jets. so he put on the motorcraft today and it was used as well and was having accelerator pump problems and a vacume leak. When we had the holley and demon carbs on we tried a few different jets. So the main suspects for the problems are: 1.all 3 race carbs had the power valve taken out of them for use on the track. T2.he electric fuel pump might be giving a bit too much fuel pressure. 3.We tied the stock exhaust in for the time being. 4.The cam is a bit wild.

 

So were gonna try one of the holley 350's with a power valve put back in and some new jetting. were gonna grab the old exhaust that was on the motor which is like 2.5-3 inch i think and put it on. And run a fuel pressure regulator. I was told I would have to keep this motor wound up a lot more than my old one. Any Ideas?

 

I did drive It about 40 miles last night and while with the 500 race carb it was a little hard to manage and a lot out of tune it still was night and day over my old L16. I would give it some throttle it would pull a bit then bog and then hit a sweet spot and just pull like a beast. I think I might have too much motor and too much tire to do burnouts until I get a bad ass clutch but we will see after i get the thing running a little more smooth. Even with the old exhaust this thing gets a lot of looks now

Sounds like you're going to kill you're self and a "mechanic" that's monkeying around. If its a real race motor I wouldn't drive it until its tuned. Could lean out too much

[Sickboy1031]

yeah Its just sitting at his shop right now Im gonna get it back tomorrow night I guess

[I'm BLUE]

I am just now learning about power valve spring rates , accelerator pump discharges/nozzle sizes , etc...

 

First Verify everything around the carb is running right ;) ( sealed, no sticky valves , intake leaks , engine timed , vacuum advance breaker plates not rusted stuck )

 

I don't know a lot about these carbs , but learning quicker. Put the jetting back where it was , then research to see if your carbs have "Accelretor Pump Cam Options" , and you might be looking at an Accelrator Discharge Kit like a 50cc instead of a 30cc , but IDK since this is an idea for larger engines.

 

I had to Before screwing with my 390cfm Holley 4bbl carb on my L28 engine Change the following

 

-- Change Fuel Filters

(1) Spark Plugs

(2) Plug Wires

(3) Advance Timing to 18 degrees ( Runs Great , no Pinging )

(4) Spray Carb Clean to look for Intake Leaks ( Found one , on balance tube , small but none the less , dangerous but effective lolz )

(5) Change My Timing Chain Set ( complete set )

(6) Install a few pressure regulator ( Holley Low Pressure Regulator 1-4 PSI from Baxters = $29.99 ) === Other cheapy's don't work :rolleyes:

(7) Verify My Vacuum Advance was working ( Diaphram ) as well as the spark Advnace timing port was receiving vacuum ( 0-7 PSI from idle to 3,000 RPM I believe )

(8) Verify Vacuum Advance Breaker Plates are free and lubed some how

 

Then Adjusting the Carb I did the following ( I am new to this type of Carb ;) )

 

Float Height Adjustment First :lol:

 

(1) Attached vacuum gauge to main port on my Holley 390cfm ( at the base of the carb a full vacuum port , was sitting at 15 at idle , I adjusted both sides of the meterblock idle circuit screws at 1/8 turn increments to receive a total 20.5 reading per Holley's Recommendations ( adjust evenly until reach the highest vacuum reading then leave it alone. ) This step allowed me a larger increase in vacuum in the spark timing port.

(2) For the power valve spring variation ,measurement ---> , Warm up the car to operating temperature , then take the highest reading at the base ( full vacuum port off the carb ) , which mine was 20.5 , divide by 2 , = 10.25 ---> So I need a #100 type spring from Holley , if that specific one is not available then go to the next lowest level ( They said generally heavier springs for heavier cars , and lighter ones for lighter cars ? IDK )

(3) Accelrator Pump Cams might be an option for you ? IDK I am ordering one for my 390cfm ( mild , I may not need it but I will try it ) If you absolutely must have it , then a larger 50cc pump diaphram may be available to help offset your radical cam that moment the carb is not drawing enough vacuum to get off the line , but you just might need a larger more radical Accelerator pump cam for a Radical CamShaft :D )

(4) I forgot to mention , Set the floats lately ? Clean out the carb lately ? I had mine rebuilt and the dude made it clear how "crapped" up it was , and was chuckling that it even ran :o ( previous owner I recieved from , took straight to rebuilder)

(5) Re-Jetting Scares me when there is so much more to be done first

(6) Use the Demon if you can :D ---> Holley believers are converted I have heard once using this carb ( me too brother has one :P :lol: )

(7) I don't know much about re-jetting these things ! lolz sorry :huh:

 

Here's a good place to start :D ---> http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R8108-2.pdf

[I'm BLUE]

Ohhhhhh forgot , worn throttle plate bushings/shafts/bent in my experience are not worth screwing with until fixed IMHO , just makes life easier ( Although I ran my 240z with worn SU throttle Shafts , and kept re-tuning every 2-3 weeks :lol: :rolleyes: ---> No more of that with nice tight ones :D :lol: )

 

I never even thought about just taking out the power valve spring :D ahhhhhhahahahahaha wonder what that would be like on my Z ?

[Farmer Joe]

damn!! say hello to 10mpg lol

 

that sounds good! it should match the rearend gearing pretty well too. big big burnouts are now needed!